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| McMaster's - Carr sells Babbit
(May 29, 2001) |
Babbitt Bearings (Mar 20,
2003) |
| Release agent for babbitting
(Mar 21, 2002) |
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| McMaster's -
Carr sells Babbit |
| McMaster's Part No.
is 8899k11. That will get you approx 4 1/2 pounds of Babbit ingot.
The price in my book is 15.00. This is an old book (#96), so I
imagine the price has gone up. The piece I did on the taper
attachment was maybe 4 ounces. So 4.5 pounds is a life time supply
for most people. Ray (735) |
| Yes Ray, McMaster-Carr has
listed 5 pound bar for $12.65. Hmmm, so what was your release agent
(white out)? If you already discussed that I guess I missed it.
Paul R. (737) |
| I realize that I am
jumping in the middle here, but....if you are thinking of changing
out babbit bearings for oilite bearings, why would you use an
adhesive on the outside of the oilite? I think that would not be
very good. I would think that the oilite via capillary action would
absorb the adhesive. here is a link to isostatic industries. their
catalog is very well done and almost a tech manual. they have MANY
stock sizes available. http://www.isostatic.com/ at worst, why not
just get the closest size and then modify them to suit? I think the
inner bore is the critical one and then turning down the outside one
would be ok. are there some internal bosses or trunnions that I am
missing that need to be engaged? here is a message I saved from
Scott Logan from a long while back with some info on oilite. maybe
Scott can update this post? Scott has some of the pages from the
catalog which show design thoughts. dennis sslREMOVETHIS@loganact.com
(Scott Logan) Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworkingRe: .0001" sliding
fit23 Oct 1998 00:37:14 GMTI was going to stay out of this
discussion, but after seeing some of the comments, I think it's time
I dropped a word or two. Number 1, NEVER, EVER, EVER LAP AN OILITE
BEARING. The abrasive will embed itself into the bearing and turn IT
into a lap. You will quickly destroy your shaft. According to the
manufacturer (yes, I checked), the approved method of modifying an
Oilite Bearing is to "size" or burnish it, or to cut it with a VERY
sharp tool. Dull tools will tear the material and close the pores.
At that point, you have a simple bronze bushing. It is also
recommended not to ream Oilite, except in unusual circumstances.
Reamers have a tendency to tear the surface. Sizing can be done with
a burnishing tool, or by forcing a ball through, or my favorite,
pressing a lathe mandrel all the way through. In any case, remember
that the Oilite will spring back slightly from the maximum size of
the sizing tool. Once the Oilite has been modified, it will probably
need "re-oiling". For more details, http://www.loganact.com/tips/sleeve_bearings/index.htm (740) |
| I'm not going to touch the bushings.
I understand they're kind of magic. I'm going to bore/ream out the
worn Babbitt so I can slid in the bushings -- a quick fix. It
remains to be seen if a metal-filled epoxy would significantly
invade the bushing (thanks for the warning), but that's not my
current plan anyway. Plain bronze bushings could be used if there is
a problem. Now that I have heard of recent success with the
availability and re-pouring of Babbitt metal, it gives me confidence
that that is an option too. Pre-heating might be a problem for me
since the counter shaft is on a floor-standing pedestal, but that's
a more distant problem and I'll jump off that bridge when I get
there. BTW, I did take a close look and I can see the fill holes on
the front side of my motor pedestal. Makes sense, it would be set on
its back for the pour. Maybe there's Babbitt metal in my future ;-)
The ULTIMATE solution would be to fit ball-bearings to the
countershaft. Over designed, I know, but it would be cool. Maybe now
that I have a mill I should consider that. Let's see, a 7/8" shaft,
1-5/8" hole, use a pair of self-aligning bearings. Paul R. (741) |
| Yes, I used white
out. I understand white shoe polish will work to. Must be the
chalkiness of it. It works well though. I even used it in the
funnel. The thought was to have it flow out the bottom, not stick to
the sides. I may get some babbitt from McMaster's. I have an old
grinder that actually seems to have babbitt bearings. I was
considering "new" bearings. But I guess that is the beauty of
babbitt. You can melt it out and reuse it like new. I will have to
look into what the old boys used for a release agent. I don't know
that white out was available 100 years ago. Maybe powdered chalk? My
father used to tell how in the depression they would find old train
wheels or axles (not sure which). They would take the babbitt out and
sell it to buy food. I didn't know till now what babbitt is. Ray
(743) |
| Release agent
for babbitting |
| I'm about to
re-babbitt the clamp on the taper attachment for my 9". Afterward, I
want the shaft to be loose in the clamp, so I need it to release
from the babbit. Will this happen easily on its own, since the shaft
has a good smooth finish on it, or is there a release agent I can
use? Rick K. (3680) |
| I read that soot
from a candle flame or something like that was used. Paul
R. (3681) |
| Rick, Wrap the
shaft with a couple layers of wrapping paper, like butcher paper. I
have babbited many crankshafts on the old single cylinder engines,
and always used the brown craft paper. Not the heavy stuff, I think
what I have is the 30 lb, which is about the weight of butcher
paper. This also will leave room for scraping, if you have any cold
spots. Be sure to preheat the castings that you want the babbitt to
adhere to and be sure it's tinned also. There is a tinning compound
that makes this job real easy. Most industrial supply houses have
the tinning compound or an Auto Supply that caters to the "Lead
Artists" That do body work for the real restoration people. Also you
can smut (Carbon) the shaft if you want a tighter fit to start with.
Use a kerosene lamp, if you have one and turn the flame up, till it
smokes, and pass it under the shaft until it's all black (Smutted).
That's all there is to it. Benny
(3682) |
| Babbitt
Bearings |
| Lindsay's Technical
Books catalog came yesterday. There on page 40 are 2 books on babbit
bearings: "Babbitt Bearing Techniques" #22440 $5.95 and "How I Pour
Babbitt Bearings" #1524 $7.95. I wonder where you buy babbit bearing
ingots? http://www.lindsaybks.com Dave (9830) |
| One source
for babbitt is McMaster-Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/ 8899K11 Lead
Babbitt, 8901K71 Lead Copper Babbitt, 8900K11 Tin Babbitt, Lead
based babbitts are cheaper but as I understand it, the tin based one
makes better bearings. Webb (9831) |
| After the
problems I have had on two different machines I would go with new
660 bronze bearings and forget about the babbitt. The load on a
spindle is just to high for more than a light flash of the stuff.
There must be some reason I have never seen babbitt used in a machine
spindle. Both my South Bends use the Iron casting while my US Burke
mill uses a bronze bearing. Even the grinder in question did not
come with babbitt on the bearings from the factory, this was a
machine repairman's idea and it cost us 5 times what the new bronze
ones did. JWE (9833) |
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