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Lathe - Buying/Value/Price

 
 

 

 
 
To buy or not to buy? (Mar 27, 2001) Lathe shopping (Feb 3, 2003)
Considering SB9" (Aug 24, 2001) Need advice on lathe purchase (Mar 16, 2003)
Newbie question on lathe purchase (Dec 16, 2001) To buy or not to buy (Jun 25, 2003)
Lathe value question (Jan 8, 2002) 10L Purchase ? (Aug 13, 2003)
Finding A Good South Bend Lathe (Mar 10, 2002) 9" South Bend Model A (Value) Oct 27, 2003
9" Price (Apr 18, 2002) I'm trying to find the value! (Dec 5, 2003)
10L (187A) price question (Apr 23, 2002) 9" model A value (Jan 10, 2004)
Where to buy a lathe (Jul 6, 2002) Need advice on buying a SB lathe (Jan 27, 2004)
1978 Price List (Aug 16, 2002) Heavy 10 purchase (Jan 29, 2004)
SB 10", light vs. heavy, price (Sep 4, 2002) Buying a Lathe (Jan 31, 2004)
Buying SBL vs 12" Taiwan lathe? (Dec 18, 2002) Buy New SB Lathe? (Jan 25, 2005)
 
To buy or not to buy?
A guy from my club has a 9" SB for sale. I went to look at it the other day but didn't buy it for a couple of reasons. One being my garage is full. I did like the old look and kept thinking about it on the way home. A friend of mine restored an old tractor and wants me to do my own. Well the lathe certainly would not take up as much room. Anyway when I got home, I did a little searching on the net and found this group. You guys got me all hopped up on getting my own lathe now. I work in a shop where we have two lathes. After mentioning this group to a co-worker who has an old Logan. He did a search and joined the Logan group. I never realized there were Lathe groupies, let alone me becoming one. Today I called SB thanks to the info I read in here. I talked to a Jenea (sp) and was told that this particular lathe is a model C and was shipped to OB Burns in Chicago on Jan 11 1938. Makes it 10 years older than me. I still don't know whether to buy it or not but it looks like the guy wont have any trouble selling it by the looks of the enthusiasm in here. I don't want to tell him how much, the price might go up. If your interested, I'll let you know what happens. Dieter (401)
Sounds interesting. I personally would only consider it if it were very cheap and in useable condition. I held out for a 9" model A (QC gear box, power cross and long feed). I really wanted those features as my 7x10 import was pretty basic. Paul R. (402)
That's the reason for posting, to get feed back. I didn't go over it very well but it does run and all the gears are there. However the tail stock chuck is missing, it has only the center. The asking price is $325, what do you guys think? Like I said, if I really need to machine something, I can do it at work. This is more for the love of old machinery. So what price _do_ you put on that? Certainly cheaper than restoring an old Harley. But I don't want to throw money away either. Dieter (404)
The price sounds worth it if it does indeed have all the change-gears and a tool holder (lantern or other), and the lack of a tail-stock chuck (I presume a drill chuck) is no big deal. You can make the taper shank and find/buy a drill chuck cheap. Sounds like fun. The base-price for a 7x10 minilathe is over that! Paul R. (405)
Check the wear on the ways. If they show the hand scraping all the way from head stock to tail stock, you might have found a prize. Try the carriage lock too. Put the carriage hear the chuck and snug up the lock. Then move the carriage back to the tailstock. If it starts to bind, the ways have wear. be cautious. Check for broken castings. use a flashlight it's your money and pain involved here. Also fill the oil bearing cups on the spindle and see if they drain quickly indicating a possible bearing replacement. Oh, and for the drill chuck, about $15.00 at Harbor Freight. don't fret the small stuff. I bought mine, model C for $300, so you're in the ball park. Don't jump without looking, but if it's good go for it! Dave (411)
Considering SB9"
I'm going to be looking at a SB 9" model C x36(bed?) tomorrow. Supposed to be in excellent condition - no apparent wear/all scraping marks still clear, etc. Change gear/not QC. Here is the sellers quote: "South Bend model c 9" by 36" bed lathe. It is a virgin, absolutely NO measurable wear, all scraping marks intact on ways, tight bearings, very clean, very tight." I know this guy and trust him, so I expect to find the above true. Has good quality 3 4 jaw chucks, no steady rest. Not sure yet about other tooling. My question is, what do I need to be aware of when looking at this model, compared to others, such as the A and B models, but other sizes of SB lathes? Asking price is $700. I currently have an Atlas 10FV54 in good condition with a good set of tooling which I'd trade or sell if I decide to get a SB (of any size/model). Rick Kruger (1371)
That is to much for a "C" and a lot for a "B" unless it has lots of tooling and goodies with it. The main difference between the B and C is the B has the power feed apron and lead screw while the C does not. JWE (1373)
Sounds like a really nice machine, but I think I'd opt for one with a QC gear box. Jim (1374)
JWE, that's the kind of feedback I was hoping for. I'll still look at it, but this helps in knowing the bounds. Rick (1375)
Jim. A QC box would be very nice. I have two change gear lathes now and while I don't do much threading, it is a bother to change gears. How easy is it to find a QC gear box to retro-fit a lathe without one and how much do they go for (ballpark range)? Also, I've not seen many (hardly any) SBs advertised in my area so I haven't had much opportunity to snag one, QC or not. Beside the usual classifieds, Nickel ads estate sales, what other sources are there? Rick K. (1376)
Newbie question on lathe purchase
I am in the process of buying my first lathe and consider myself a newbie at this. I recently looked at a 10" south bend lathe which appears to be in good shape looking at bedway wear and lead screw etc. However I noticed when I would lift up on the carriage there was some play. I was told this was normal and did not matter since the pressure was always down on the carriage. Is this play something I should be concerned about and if so what is the remedy? Also the lathe has the double lever quick change gearbox,3 chuck, steady rest, dog face plate, and drill chuck with an asking price of $500. Is this a good, average or high price for this lathe? (2454)
Welcome to the wonderful world of old machinery. There will be a little play at the front of the carriage without the carriage lock screw tight. There should be no noticeable play up and down at the rear. The rear of the carriage is held by a plate that runs under it and the rear of the bed. If there is play there, the carriage will have to be removed and the area where the plate mounts filed or milled until the play is gone. Not a big deal but be careful, if too much material is taken off it will have to be shimmed. Usually a thou or two will tighten it back up. rest, this The best way to figure this is to ask yourself what you need for tooling. You didn't mention the toolholder or tools so I'll assume Armstrong/lantern style. You'll want a better toolholder, a 4 jaw chuck, a live center, a dead center for each end, collets?, micrometer stops?, follower rest?, etc. Get out your MSC catalog (or Grizzly, or Victor, or Enco. or whatever) and add up the cost of the accessories you want. Look around for other lathes and compare. The $1000 10" down the street may be a better deal if it comes with a $600 4 jaw chuck. In the grand scheme of things the machine itself is only about 20% of the cost involved, the rest is tooling. Sorry for the ramble, but I wish someone had told me this before I bought mine. Not that I would have listened. Frank (2455)
Do *NOT* get out your MSC catalog and add stuff up - they are *VERY* expensive, although pleasant to deal with and always well stocked. There are several other companies with *MUCH* better prices. KBC tools www.kbctools.com Travers www.travers.com Enco www.enco.com. I've been completely happy with both KBC and Travers. Enco seems to have slightly lower quality imported stuff sometimes, and I've not ordered from J L. Save MSC for the time you gotta have some oddball part at your door tomorrow. Although, on several occasions, ordered from KBC one morning and had my merchandise the next. Their website has the current flyer online and is searchable for all of their other products, but with no pictures on the search. Travers has many pictures on theirs. Enco, J L, MSC and Grainger all have a lot of pictures, so you can look there and order from the 'lowest bidder' so to speak. Just wanted to help stretch your dollars on your new lathe. Matt (2456)
I would say if the ways are in good shape, it a good deal. A few things that would be a plus: thread dial, Underneath drive, taper attachment, large dials on the feeds, and collets. Also, you said it was a 10 inch, you didn't specify whether it's a 10K (light) or 10L (heavy). If its a heavy, then its a steal. You might look at some of the dealer websites (Meridian) to get an idea of it value. Look at what they get for accessories etc. Also, compare on E-Bay. I would say what you pay from a dealer your price is about half and probably 60% of what it would go on e-bay. Also, you can look at it and run it etc. and you won't have to pay shipping. That might cost you a couple of hundred $, depending where you are and the lathe is and creating. I just bought an EMCO Compact 5 CNC. Its being shipped from Philly to Indy, shipping cost are about $175 to give you an idea. Tom (2458)
Lathe value question
I have an opportunity to purchase a used Southbend 14x60 precision lathe. The lathe is a model CL145C made in 1972. The condition is very good, it came out of a high school auto shop and hasn't been used in a very long time. It comes with a 6" three-jaw chuck, a 8" four-jaw chuck (that looks almost new), a four post quick change tool holder, face plate, and a steady rest. The lathe is located just a short distance from my home. The asking price is $1075.00. Is this a good deal or not? I really don't know what the "real" value of the lathe is, but it seems to be worth more then the asking price. Mike (2589)
I'll add some more since you came here from the 7x10 group. A lathe from a high school (from reading) is usually a great find. Little or no production-wear. The thing to watch out for is catastrophic damage like dings or cracks on the ways or other abuse such as running things w/o oil. I still think it sounds like a good deal and a nice size for a lathe. If it uses 3-phase power, you might look into an inverter-drive for under three hundred bucks as an option of swapping out a motor. I'd buy it if it were in my back yard. Paul R. (2590)
With a milling attachment, a 14x60 lathe can mill bigger pieces than a mini mill ever will. Try turning a 14x60 workpiece in a mini-mill, however. I think that's a pretty decent price for that lathe if it is as you describe. (2591)
If the lathe is in good condition that is a very good deal. Figure a 12x36 Chinese lathe that needs lots of work goes for $2000. A good tear down, clean and lube and it sounds like you'll have a heck of a nice lathe. Stan (2593)
The price is a good one for any 14 x 60 made in 1972 and not ruined. And then there is the transport problem here you don't have to pay freight. The biggest problem lathes that come out of school environments is some student doing something dumb and causing a nick somewhere. The lathe usually stalls before it does any real damage and the student learns respect for machinery and gets a new set a drawers. Yasmiin (2596)
The first thing I did was check the ways, especially near the headstock (where people usually drop the chuck when changing it) The second thing I did was manually moving the saddle back and forth along the ways looking for spots where it might stick. The saddle moves silky smooth. Third thing I did was check the head stock. The only "damage" I found was some nicks of the lathe bed, but fortunately they were not on the ways, the are on the back top part of the lathe bed, the area where the tail stock rests but since the nicks are so far forward I doubt I will ever use the tail stock that close to the head stock.  (Embedded image moved to file: pic20580.gif) Attachment: pic20580.gif [not stored] Mike (2598)
Finding A Good South Bend Lathe
I am looking for a used lathe. I've been able to find a few seemingly good used SBs, but they are 800 or more miles away. Before I drive that far just to look at one on the chance it is a good one, I thought I'd ask the group if anyone has anything for sale in the southeast, especially within 3-400 miles of Charlotte, NC. I'm looking for a 13 inch South Bend in good condition with basic tooling. No, I'm not looking for a handout or cheapie, I'm willing to pay a decent price for a decent machine. If you have such or know of some reputable dealers in my area, I'd really appreciate a response. I'm not especially knowledgeable in machine work, so I'm going to primarily be a lurker on the list. But, I've already seen that this is an excellent place for gathering information and picking up techniques. Oilcan PS My main interest is in being able to make a few parts for my hit and miss engines. (3567)
I would recommend you call every machine shop in your yellow pages, and then each surrounding county. In addition, talk to them and tell them what you are looking for and ask they have any suggestions. maybe an auction ? GREAT deals at auctions, with more parts and tooling than you will probably ever use. Also ask then of the locations of used equipment dealers. There are quite a few here in the Philadelphia area. Dave (3571)
Give this guy a try. The guys name is Stanley About a month ago I corresponded with him at length about a 10k he had. Unfortunately he was asking to much for it ($1945.00)and I would have to also pay for shipping from Philadelphia to Dallas. Couldn't see it. Here is all the information I got at the time. Maybe he still has it and you can haggle over the price. I doubt he would have sold it at that price. Fred (3574)
I recall that lathe was for sale last summer on ebay with a buy option of $1500, lasted about 1 minute before current seller bought it. (3587)
Last I checked it was 2500 with reserve not met, tidy profit don't ya think? Matt (3590)
This is the second recent go around for this 10K auction. The first time the bid was about $3300 and the reserve was still not met. I wonder what the lathe behind the 10K is in the picture.  (3594)
9" Price
I am looking at buying a 9" SB. Here is all the information I have so far. I am the second owner of the lathe .I was purchased back in the mid 40s and I bought it from the original owner. Has tool holders (right, left , thread, bore, cutoff), and steady rest. Has V bed ,not flat like a atlas lathe, and quick change gear box, with a flat belt drive. I am assuming this is a A model given the QC box. Am I correct? The asking price is $1100.00. It is 200 miles from me so I may actually be able to get a look at it. Depends on what kind of answers I get. Fred (3959)
Fred, your post was/is a bit confusing. Are you quoting the current owner who bought it from the original owner? If so, I think I understand. I'd recommend visiting the lathe. It sound like a Model A from the QC box description. You might want to view/print the (excellent) South Bend Ads archived on this site under 'files' and Tony's UK Lathe page before you proceed with a purchase... Personally, I bought from pictures but there are subtle problems with my lathe like a slightly bent lead screw (fixable?) which pictures cannot reveal. This one might be real nice totally babied and well lubed in which case write the check and run away with the lathe laughing madly! If not negotiate. The Model A is, in my opinion, the most desirable 9" and for me, the longer the bed, the better. During my search, I frequently encountered 9" A's for $2500 tooled and $1700-1800 basic but these were in good shape. The days of getting the lathe for free if you buy the lawnmower too are long gone-- The word is out! Hopefully, the lathe comes with basic tooling- 3 4 Jaw chucks, dog driver, centers, and Jacobs chuck- anything else- like the steady rest is a bonus. If you look on Ebay, 9" steady rests and taper attachments have been going for about $1000 ;) Since the lathe is ONLY 200 miles away (I hope you meant 20) you won't have to have it shipped -- a savings of 200 to 300 bucks which you will quickly blow on tooling. Lastly, consider your location. I understand these lathes are somewhat plentiful in the 'Rust Belt' but scarce out West. If you wait for the perfect lathe, it might not ever happen. Let us know how it goes. Oh, and only one post will be necessary in the future- this group is relatively small and we like to think about our answers! Dennis (3961)
The price of the lathe sounds reasonable to me, perhaps on the high side. You can always make the owner a cash offer and see what his or her response is. More important than the price is whether the lathe will be satisfactory to you. A couple of hundred dollars either direction will be forgotten, but your machine hopefully will be with you much longer. The quick change gear box and power crossfeed are nice features to have. Have you seen the "advice on inspecting a lathe" article at www.mermac.com  ? I think that article is good. Jon (3962)
It sounds like an "A" since it has the QC box. Does it also have halfnuts for threading and gear feed on the apron for crossfeed and longitudinal feed? I think the B C use the halfnuts for both. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here. I would say the $1100 price depends on the condition and attachments and how badly you want this machine. Do the gears have any missing teeth? What is the condition of the back gear and bull/spindle gear teeth? Also look at the half nuts and leadscrew and crossfeed operation. Smooth, tight, loose, etc. Chucks? What kind and their condition. For that price you shouldn't have to do much work on this piece of equipment. If you watch SB items on ebay you get an idea how much the parts are worth when pieced out. But if you have to rebuild or rework you can easily add on another $200 to $500. I bought my 9" for $500 about 1 1/2 years ago from a high school auction and added another $400 for rebuild. I would definitely drive the 200 miles and have a look before buying. BTW, belonging to this group was a tremendous asset in this project! Ed (3963)
I agree with the view that a couple of hundred dollars either way on the price will be soon forgotten. On the other hand, ongoing or expensive problems that you've also bought will ruin your enjoyment of the machine for a long time into the future. The price is not a steal, but it is not out of the ballpark if the machine is in reasonably good condition. I would not buy it sight unseen unless you have some really convincing basis on which to trust the seller. You should probably speak with the seller b/4 driving 200 miles about things like - what is the condition of the lead screws, how much back lash is there? What is the condition of the ways (perhaps the owner can give you an idea how much taper there is 6 inches or so out from the headstock as a rough indication). You want to make sure that the spindle bearings, assembly and gears are sound. I also agree that Dave Ficken's (Meridian Machinery) piece is helpful. In the end, how much you care about individual items will depend on what you want to use the lathe for and what kind of tolerances you need to get the results you are looking for. You need to be a lot more demanding if you are looking for 5 tenths accuracy than if 2-3 thousandths is good enough. Ed (3966)
As stated before, it sounds like a premium price. Make sure the ways are in very good condition. Some things to look for that would be a plus would be a taper attachment, double tumbler box (two handles on the QC box), large dials, underneath drive, a threading dial (approx $75 on e-bay), the steady rest (aprox. $125-150 on e-bay, some go for more, some for less). Collets are a plus($150-250 collets drawbar and adapter), chucks (three jaws $75-150 maybe more), 4-Jaw ($75). The $1100 is about the price of a new import lathe. I wouldn't fool yourself though. I do have a Jet at home. Probably the better of the Asian Import machinery. A used SB in my opinion is the better choice. I would mention in my view the condition of the ways are a very important factor. I bought a used 10K almost a year ago. I got it cheap ($250) with taper attachment, 4-Jaw and some other stuff). I didn't see that the ways were very badly worn. A virtually new bed cost me about $250. It was an underneath drive and I had to adapt it for a Horizontal drive. Its more of making adapter plates for the feet. I probably have $800 to $1000 wrapped up into it and its still not running. Just some thing to think about. The prices are just estimates. As with E-bay some things go cheap and others expensive. Tom (3967)
10L (187A) price question
I recently had a chance to look at what appeared to be a Southbend lathe in good condition, but I am hoping to get some of your opinions on it. The finish was in great shape and did not appear to be refinished. The ways were in great shape, and everything seemed tight. Most usual accessories i.e. 3 jaw/4jaw Chucks, lathe dogs, spare toolpost, etc... were present. The drive mechanism seemed to run smoothly in the forward direction, but a soft buzzing sound was made when put into reverse. The leather belt also looked like it could use replacement. The model number on the end of the lathe is 187A. It has a 4ft Bed and a 10" swing. Based on the described condition, what would be the fair market price for this lathe? (4037)
Collect some more information. 187A is a 10L, the heavy 10. Look in files for a catalog to get an idea of the models available around in the late 40s. The "A" indicates bed length, but I do not know which one it is. Also, identify if it is an early or late model by looking at the quick change ( 2 or 1 banjo lever), spindle nose (threaded, L taper), cross feed clutch (star knob or lever), bed pedestals (adjustment in the tailstock end or not) and what bed is on it. Then look at Ebay completed auctions for one source of prices, and machinery dealers (on internet) for others. Also look in this groups archives; I am pretty sure prices have been posted. Perhaps also check the Atlas and Logan lathe groups to see if any comparison prices have been posted. Prices can be all over and my approach has always been pretty intuitive i.e., impulse shopping, but I have no regrets so far! P.Isaac (4042)
A bit more info- 187A is the floor model engine lathe, as opposed to the bench lathe (187AB) or toolroom bench lathe (8187AB), which came with a bunch of extras like collet equipment and taper attachment as standard. "Bench" doesn't mean much in practice for the 10", since all of the 10L bench lathes came with a bench (AFAIK), unlike the 9". "A" means 4' bed (which you already noted it had). Single lever quick change (all 10L lathes had QC, from what I can tell) predates about 1952. The 2 lever QC is a nice thing to have (many more thread choices). Somewhere between 1952 and 1957 (I don't have any catalogs between those years) SB introduced the large crossfeed and compound dials, a significant plus. The later ones have a ~1.75" dial on the compound and a ~2" dial on the crossfeed. The big ones are much easier to read. In 1958 SB moved from the knob feed clutch to the lever, added satin dials (same size), moved to a different bed reinforcement and a different bench design. All of these are nice, but I wouldn't worry about them as much as the large dials and the 2 lever QC. After 1958, from what I can tell nothing else changed to the current lathe, except some options (like different bed lengths) got discontinued. Threaded nosepiece versus long taper doesn't tell you much in terms of age. SB supplied either from at least 1957 until well into the 1970's. The default now is a camlock, but I think you can still order the 2 1/4" x 8 threaded spindle today. BTW, the current SB 10" toolroom lathe is in the $15K class, as of a few years ago. If the lathe you are considering has large dials and a 2 lever QC, I wouldn't worry too much about age or other features, I would focus on condition and accessories. Another nice accessory is the collet closer and handwheel (or lever), even if no 5C collets are included. Accessories for the threaded spindle are relatively common, but since there are more of these lathes they also sell for top dollar, so any of the spindle choices is probably reasonable. On pricing, the previous poster's thoughts on completed Ebay auctions is probably a good indicator. They tend to involve considerable shipping expense, so may be somewhat below the local market. Be aware that there is a wide variation on used lathe prices in various parts of the US, depending on supply, so trying to find some local pricing is probably smart. I would call a local used machinery dealer, tell him (or her) you are considering buying a SB heavy 10 in nice condition, and ask him in what price range he would expect to sell such a lathe. I would guess wholesale might be in the range of 1/2-2/3 of this, in terms of what you might expect to pay at a private sale. If it is in nice condition I expect you will get lots of enjoyment from it, whatever you pay. Frank (4044)
Where to buy a lathe
Where would one look for a decent used lathe? I'm kind of at a loss beyond eBay. (4983)
Where are you located? I know of a couple of dealers in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area. Lew (4984)
Industrial auctions are the best place. But you need to "know" the particulars of any lathe you might be interested in. The good models, the weak links and where/how to inspect, what tooling should go with it, etc. The same is true for shopping anywhere, but in an auction you really need to inspect the ones that interest you, make a limit, and stick to it. You can't wait until the auctioneer is at "your" item, and then make decisions on the fly. But my experience at a half dozen large auctions over the last 8 or 9 months is that they are giving major industrial equipment away, and the slightly smaller machines don't cost much. (The smaller you go, the higher the price, because hobbyists are interested and it can be sold on eBay.) Don't buy junk in this day and age, there's too much good stuff out there, and it gets cheaper every day. Watch ebay to get a handle on pricing, generally figure even less on the ground at an auction. Don't be afraid to pay a little more for full tooling and a top condition item, it will still go for 1/2 to 1/3 what a dealer asks. One thing to be careful at some industrial auctions is the rigging fee. You can buy excellent large lathes like American pacemakers, LeBlond, or huge boring mills in excellent shape, and monster radial drills these days for about $500 - $750 per item. But then you may have to pay a rigging company the same amount (or twice as much) to get it out of the building for you and on "your 'acceptable' truck". Quite a few auctions these days, especially in ongoing plants (as opposed to bankruptcies) do not let the customer rig his own purchases on things too large to carry or wheel out on a handcart. If you can, preview an auction before hand to see if it is worth going, or sticking around. You may have to go to a few to get exactly what you want, don't buy the wrong thing just because you were there. But by the same token, be prepared when something serendipitously matches your requirements at a give-away price, if not your brand expectations. smt (4985)
Go to any search engine, like Yahoo!, and type in "machine tools". That will bring up thousands of dealers. Probably some in your area. Or; put in www.locator.com That will bring up thousands of tool listings by category. Check auctions in your area; classifieds, etc. Post wanted notes at the supermarket; etc. Let everyone you know you are looking. (4986)
Red dog, You might try Lost Creek Machine. http://www.lostcreekmachine.com/ They are in east central Illinois and seem to have a good selection of reasonably priced machinery. I have found them to be very good folks to deal with. Mario (4993)
1978 Price List
For some reason I was inspired and I scanned the SBL Price List I mentioned in a previous message. It's only 4 pages total, but I bet there's 1000 part numbers and prices listed. Though some of the characters are hard to read, I should tell you that the scan is accurate - the list seems to been originally printed on an impact printer, and the right sides of some of the characters are very light. It's all legible though, and should be clear enough to read everything. Here's the link to the 1.7MB file: http://w3.one.net/~jswayze/shop/1978_sbl_price_list.pdf  Jeff (5794)
The 1973 SBL Price List downloaded fine and very clear! I'm glad you were inspired! I have an original 1958 SBL Catalog including all Lathes, Milling Machine, 7" Shaper, Drill Presses, Specs, Accessories, and Prices. Somewhere I also have a 1985 Parts and Price list. One of these days I'll try to follow your example! Jim (5821)
SB 10", light vs. heavy, price
Fred, For comparison, you can see a 10K (Light 10) that a dealer put up on eBay. This is one he listed at a starting bid of $1950. You can ask what he eventually has done with the lathe. Since his pictures and description are clear, you should be able to compare. Al, why would you pass on the Light 10 lathe? Is it just based on price, or is there something that you know to be inherently superior about the Heavy 10 design? Can it make smoother and faster cuts? I have never used a Light 10, so I don't know how it compares. Jon (6170)
I would pass because of the price. I have a 10k w/ 48" bed, and I like it a lot. It turns out accurate work, but is still not in the same ball park as the heavy 10. Given the choice between the two, I would go with the heavy 10. Al (6173)
Jon- I have a 10K on 4' bed. The 10K is a very excellent version of a 9A, with about 3/4" total extra swing over the ways, and a superior bearing lubrication system in the headstock. The stock collet system ("6K") will also take up to 5/8" instead 1/2", or you can just squeeze a 13/16" bar through the spindle with collet closer removed and using a 3 jaw chuck. It is still really basically the 9" lathe as far as being on the lightweight side. You can use a 9" bed under a 10K, for instance (it's the same), and i believe the 9A saddle, apron, and gear box. The 10L like yours, is a much bigger, heavier lathe. Better gib system (tapered gibs), 1-3/8" capacities through the spindle/ 5C collet capacity on most of them. (some were made with smaller bores) smt(6174)
Buying SBL vs 12" Taiwan lathe?
I'd like to purchase a lathe to use for hobby work, mostly to make parts to restore old motorcycles. I have narrowed my choices to either a used South Bend 9 or 10 inch, or a new 12x36, made in Taiwan, sold under various name brands. I do not need the full 12 inches of the new lathe, but new lathes smaller than that are not very stiff or accurate. I'm hoping that the members of this group can help me to decide. The cost of a SBL with basic tooling (3J chuck, 4jaw, face plate, tool post, etc.) and a bench seems to be about $1200-1500. The Taiwan lathe will be $2000-2300. The weight and rigidity of the SBL seems lower. I am unsure about the accuracy. Can you guys give me any notes concerning the benefits of the SBL over the Taiwan lathes, or vice-versa? Pete (8097)
SBL are the best you can get. They are VERY RIGID and hold their accuracy, if taken care of. The downside (to some people) is that SBL's often require some tinkering. Nick (8106)
Pete, I was in exactly the same situation 2yrs ago. I asked the same question on another bulletin board nearly started a riot. Those who responded to my question did give me some good things to think about among all the other political moral dispensations. I now own a 9" South Bend a, dare I say, 12 x 36 Birmingham. I owned the S. B. long before buying the Chinese lathe. I am no machinist by any stretch of the imagination. I am learning that is where the fun is (to me anyway). I too, need my lathes for motorcycle stuff. I have a little experience with both am willing to give my opinions. e-mail me directly we can discuss it at length if you so desire. Rick (8112)
I used to work in a place that had a real Bridgeport and a Smithy Chinese 12x36 lathe. I had looked seriously at several sizes of Asia lathe before I found a local deal on a 9" south bend. After owning the south bend for a year, and restoring it, I went to the new Harbor freight store in this area and looked at their stuff and was struck by how cheap, flimsy and cheesy their stuff looked in comparison. I walked out of there patting myself on the back for having gotten the SB instead, even if it did require work. (8119)
I own a few Chinese machines (RF-31 Mill drill, Bridgeport knockoff knee mill, Grizzly 7x12 minilathe) and I've got American stuff 11" Southbend and I used to have a 12"x36" Seneca Falls. I find the American stuff to be much nicer to use and better quality. On the other hand, I can't believe how much machine you can get for your $$ in China. Given the choice of a used Southbend in good shape versus a new Chinese machine I would take the Southbend, even if I had to pay the same amount for an older machine as for new Chinese. However, I would choose the Chinese stuff over a worn-out Southbend. So it really depends on what is available in your area and what kind of shape it's in. C (8120)
I'm in the position of owning both an SB 9" and a Jet 12x36. The Jet has the extra capacity for certain jobs. The South Bend is American industrial pride and craftsmanship in the form of iron and steel. Most of what I do is rather small, so it's no real choice. I'd keep the SB. But the Jet is not an incompetent machine. As others have pointed out, you get a lot for the money with Asian equipment. What you can't get is the grin that breaks across your face as you shave off the last couple tenths with that smooth little South Bend. Ahhh. Avoid the crap they sell at Harbor Freight. Shane (8124)
Lathe shopping
I'm shopping for a lathe so if anybody is selling or runs across a deal please let me know. I'd like a South Bend but am open to others. Mark (9074)
Mark, Where are you located what size lathe? I know of very nice (complete original) well tooled SB 9A on the original metal leg / wood top bench that will be up for sale very soon (he gat a heavy 10). I am on the central coast of California, near San Luis Obispo. (9079)
Mark Where are you located? Max(9080)
Mark I m going to have a couple of lathes for sale soon. I have a 13 southbend (probably) a 12 atlas Craftsman. Had surgery; am just getting back to being able to lift more than 10 pounds must make a minor repair on the SB; have to decide for sure if I want to sell the craftsman (long story). Big advantage is I m in Waco (assume you re in Houston?) Lew (9084)
I know of very nice (complete original) well tooled SB 9A on the original metal leg / 10). I know of two other interested buyers in the Sacramento area. Fred (9085)
Need advice on lathe purchase
I mainly do woodworking, but I'd like to start moving into metalworking and I'm considering purchasing a lathe. I've located a lathe within driving distance and I was hoping that some of you could give me some advice on price and what to look for. I apologize in advance for asking this question, but I've searched through the archives and couldn't find much information. Anyhow, the lathe is a SB 9" model A, with a 36" bed. I haven't seen pictures of it yet, but the owner says it is in good shape. It comes with 3- and 4-jaw chucks, but not much tooling. It has a newer motor and comes with a bench. I know a lot depends on the condition, but could anyone give me an approximate range of what a lathe like this would sell for? Also, is there anything in particular that I should look for when I go to check it out? And finally, how hard is it to move one of these babies? Vince (9774)
Before you check out the lathe read the Dave Ficken's article "advice on inspecting a lathe". You will find it on the left side of his web site http://www.mermac.com/  That is about the best information you can find. Read it a number of times. You will know exactly what to look for and more so how to really inspect it. Fred (9776)
Prices will be all over the place because of age, condition, rust, accessories, but I would guess 600-1200 or more. See how much of the original scraping marks are left on the bedways, especially at the chuck end. If there is any left at the chuck end, you have a virgin. If so, do anything it takes to get it. Anything. Anything. :-) Most of them out there seem to have.004 or so. Lightly tighten the carriage clamp, just a tiny bit, and move the carriage from the chuck to the tailstock. that will give you a good feel for how worn the bedways are. Check the backlash in the crossfeed. Depends on how far you want to disassemble it. I got mine when a division I worked at was closing and I wanted it SO BAD, and to keep it from the used dealers, I took it ALL apart and put the whole thing in the trunk of my Mercury Cougar. I had a VERY interesting drive 30 mile drive, with oncoming drivers infuriated with my headlights, which were illuminating the treetops, and the steering wheel was VERY "light", especially when accelerating. I did it entirely alone. The comptroller said, "Take it now for $250". For that price I would have dragged it home naked over broken glass. I love my Model A. I would not trade it for the whole Wholesale Tool showroom near me if they offered me all their new Third World lathes for it, and I mean it. My Model A is fifty one years old, and works hard for my business every day- Just like me! If you get a good one, you get a hard-working friend for life.
(9778)
It's sort of like cars, airplanes, antiques, old stamps, and the like. There is sort of a base price for an acceptable item, but as condition improves, price rises very steeply. You are best off getting the best condition you can afford or find. Frank (9782)
As others have stated the condition of the ways would determine the cost of the machine. Some wear is expected, but if the ways have a ridge on them, I'd look elsewhere. Still this would be very subjective. I would say with good ways about $800 for a horizontal drive and $1000-1200 for a UND. Also, a taper attachment would add to the value. I disassemble one of mine and moved it. Another was already disassembled. Someday I'll assemble them. The term "Good Shape" is very subjective. Ie been burned a few times as I am sure other have on E-Bay, when buying lathe beds. What I would consider usable or good is very different than many sellers. Still there are a some honest people on E-Bay. Tom (9787)
I have a very old (19350 model C. It is mounted on a (home?) fabricated stand made from welded angle an channel iron. the stand weighs more than the lathe. I moved mine from Pa to WI to NJ by simply removing the lathe from the stand. This makes it quite manageable for two people. I use my lathe both for metal and wood. It also has a 36" bed. I have made an extension which allows me to turn, between centers about 36" spindles. I would never use a wood lathe when I have something this good around. (9800)
To buy or not to buy
I have found a South Bend Lathe 14" in what I would consider to be in ok condition, I am new to this site I was hoping some one would be able to let me know if this is a good lathe to own. I have at present a Maximat V10P but its a little small so I am looking at this 14" to add to my home shop. The beds are not showing any sign of wear the lathe works fine when you turn it on everything seems fine until you engage the cross feed and the machine comes to a stop and the leather belts starts to slip, the 3phase motor does not seem to have much power as well. The lathe has been sitting in a garage for years and is in great need of general servicing it has no identification on it except to say south Bend. My concerns is mainly the leather belt can I get a replacement if need be the motor I will change to a single phase motor anyhow, is general replace parts easy to come buy, eg gears, leather belt etc. Frank (12272)
I had really good luck with a company in California that provided me with excellent service. I needed a replacement leather belt for my South Bend Lathe so I sent out an e-mail to the California Leather Company http://www.calbelting.com asking for a quote. I received a phone call from a gentleman named John (as it turns out the owner of the company) who quoted me a price of $40 including shipping. This includes the metal connectors and hinge pin mounted on the belt. I told him on the phone I wanted to order it, and he told me that he would send it out that day, to just mail him a check. He actually shipped the belt before he received payment. He told me he was a small company with four employee's and that he's doing the work for fun as he could have retired years ago. The belt came in within a few days and I'm very satisfied with it. I also was curious if anyone knows if a belt blank from Tandy leather (item #452700) at http://www.tandyleather.com  would work for a drive belt. You'd have to skive the ends and glue them, or use the clipper lacing method. I looked at my belt I bought from California Belting (mentioned in the first paragraph) and it's a single ply leather belt. I'm not sure about the thickness of the belt from Tandy Leather. But at $12.99, it's a pretty good deal. Dave (12278)
Frank, Don't have a 14 incher but any SB in good shape is a good lathe :-) The belt is actually a piece of cake. You have several options: Order a new belt from LaBlond. Order a new clipper style belt from MSC. Order a new clipper belt from Baltimore Belting (4 ply power transmission belting.) Good stuff. Buy a length of leather from a leather supplier and lace it up, add clips, or skive and glue. Replacement parts can be a bit hard to come by, but many of the dealers have parts, as does LaBlond. Can't get everything, but if the lathe is in good shape you probably won't be needing parts in any case. Very old lathes are harder to find parts for, if this lathe is one with a numeric ONLY serial number some parts may be hard to find. Old gears may be 14 1/2 degree pressure angle and can be hard to come by. Naturally with a mill and diving head you can always make what you need, don't know if this is an option for you. Stan (12279)
Read some of the archives and realized that belts are not a issue and can be easily replaced thanks for your information, I read some web site where they say you can not take to much of a cut on the lathe as the belt will start to slip or the tool would jam in the work, is this a problem I should be aware of, or can this be corrected with a new belt and motor. The reason I asked is that this lathe does not have much power at best right now as is and hoping that a good pull down and service is all that would need to put it back into shape. I have not tried to cut anything with this lathe but I can stop the chuck with my hand easily and the leather belt will start to slip. Frank (12296)
Frank - not sure which model you have, but on my bench mount heavy 10 you can make an adjustment to tighten up the drive belt. Think that you can with all of them, as they are prone to stretching. John (12297)
Frank, Do you have the correct tension on the belt? There should be some kind of belt tension adjustment. On the 9's it is a turnbuckle on the tension lever. A lot of us here are thankful for the belt slipping under too heavy of a load. Not that I have ever done it, but when the carriage crashes into the headstock, belt slippage is a Martha Stewart "good thing". Glen (12298)
It also occurs to me that if the lathe has been sitting, crud could grow under the cross slide gib. A simple cleaning and adjustment of the gib would help. Glen (12299)
Not all models have the turnbuckle, as it was an optional extra (though so cheap it seems that most bought it) Pics of an early model C on this URL show both. http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend/page3.html  Turnbuckles are easy enough to make up, and don't need bi-directional threads to work, so long as one end has a long thread and the other end can swivel freely. Len (12300)
Not worth the effort of making tho' as a commercial alternative is so inexpensive. Get yourself a straining screw (used for tensioning wires or securing loads = or plant) of suitable size. This is a turnbuckle with both left and right hand threaded= ends and looks pretty much the part. One end is an eye which is fine, t'other is a = hook which might need a welded modification. In the UK typical price is about 2.00 for M8 and 2.50 for M10. Clive (12315)
True enough Clive. My suggestion was really for situations when custom length is needed. Not relevant when it's a "pull", but for a "push" tensioner, it might be. Len to buy or not to buy (12317)
Sounds like an oil soaked belt, perhaps a bit too loose as well. Sometimes you can blot most of the oil out of a belt between paper towels. After a few blotting sessions a dunk in Naphta or mineral spirits follows by blotting may get enough oil out of the belt to restore function. Stan (12323)
10L Purchase?
I ran across what I think is a 10L. The label says swing - 10L Catalog Number 187Y Bed 3' (measures about 16 inch chuck to tailstock) The stand is about 48" wide at base. It is in pretty rough shape, has a 4 jaw chuck, tailstock, enclosed stand, the kind that has the motor on the left, but just legs on the right. There is no motor, the wide belt is there, but no motor pulley either. The tips of the ways are dinged up, a lot of grime to get a good look at them. I looked around for pictures to compare it to, but haven't found the right site? Any suggestions? Anyways, the thing has been setting in this guys garage for a few years, don't know where he got it, but he has never run it since it has no motor. He wants $200, should I ? Or shouldn't I? I have a Large Grizzly 3N1 and a small 7x14 Speedway, but am not familiar with the SouthBends. (13350)
Grab it and run. Unless the bed has wear everything else if fixable. Fred (13351)
I think I have the same lathe you are looking at to purchase. I paid $900 for mine, my only real expenses afterwards were the motor/switch and the (soon to be purchased) belt. Good luck with your project! I had a great time restoring mine, it's going to be used for model engineering and basically the larger items my Sherline long bed lathe can't do. My restored lathe is in the photos section, look in the first Heavy 10 directory. Jason (13352)
From the 187 catalog number it is clearly a Heavy 10. It also has the large spindle bore supporting 5C collets (the heavy 10's with the smaller bore were catalog 199). The Y in the catalog number confirms the 3' bed length, and your measurement of 16" from chuck to tailstock is about right (the catalog says 14" for the 3' bed). It is the floor version rather than the bench version (matching your description of just legs on the right), which is just fine. From the lack of a CL in the catalog number it would appear to be an older lathe (before perhaps 1950), but again that isn't a significant issue. It at least has the potential to be a very nice lathe, and worth closer to $1000 or more in decent shape. The only reason IMHO not to grab it and run at $200 would be if there is some really terrible flaw like a cracked bed. However, for $200 you could spend a fair amount on parts (of which a reasonable number show up on Ebay), even big ones, and still end up with a nice lathe for a reasonable amount of money (although perhaps a few times the $200 asking price by the time you are done, if there is a "surprise" or two). For pictures try www.lathes.co.uk . If you don't mind undertaking a project I would say buy it for $200 and sort out condition, etc after you get it home and cleaned. I would guess that even if a lot of it is junk that you could get back most or all of the $200 selling the decent parts on Ebay as a last resort. Frank (13354)
For $200.00 it can't be to bad, if you do not want it, I sure might be Clint. (13357)
Buy, the parts are worth a lot more than that. List them on this yahoo group and you will sell everything. (13358)
9" South Bend Model A (Value)
I need to sell this lathe to make space in my house. Can anybody give me some guidance for general value.? Located in Southern CT. Some more information: In working condition; Single Phase Power; S/N- 143957 Catalog # - 5442? Includes Tailstock variety of tooling. (14631)
I don't decipher the number codes on these lathes. If its a horizontal drive, somewhere around $800 with a three jaws chuck and some tooling. Add $200 (maybe) if it has taper attachment. If its an underneath drive, then I'd start at $1200. Some of the tooling can add to the price. Main pieces are milling attachment ($200), steady rest ($150 standard, $200 telescoping), follower rest (same prices for steady rest), mica under cutter ($150 or more). Collet attachment would add to the price. I would say a basic setup would be worth $200. If lever type, the lever attachment is worth $200 to $300. If the tooling is centers, drill chucks, tool bits and other assorted stuff, I'd just throw them in with the lathe. I am basing these prices on a fair sell to buyer and seller, not a quick sell. Also, these are for a lathe in good working order as you have stated. If the bed ways are in very good to excellent, then I'd add about $200 or more to the prices. Tom (14645)
I'm trying to find the value!
I have a SB 8" swing ,36" bed CAT. #408-y lathe with extra chucks etc. What is the best way to find the value of this machine? (15368)
Call an experienced machinery appraiser. I can recommend Dave Ficken Meridian Machinery Co. PO Box 54 Mohnton PA 19540-0054 Business: (610) 656-0449 Business Fax: +1 (610) 775-4432 -- Scott S. Logan (15369)
I noticed there is a 8x42" on ebay right now (not mine), may want to watch and see what that one brings. (15376)
9" model A value
I have a 9" model A quick change with power cross feed in absolutely mint condition with every available attachment. The hand raking marks are still evident at the headstock end of the bed. No patina every thing shiny as new. Has lots of tooling and a 1/4 hp Dunmore tom thumb toolpost grinder. Would like to know the approximate value. Lathe was bought new in 1945 owned by one person who just passed away. (16452)
What is may be worth and what it will bring is two different things. without looking at it in person, I would venture to say the market today it would bring from 500.00-1,000. Clint (16455)
Is it a horizontal drive or an underneath drive? What type of accessories? Does it have a taper attachment? Tom (16471)
Need advice on buying a SB lathe
I want you to tell me how this deal sound to you, price are Canadian -13*24 (approx) SB lathe, whit turret attachment, seem in good working condition 1000$ - the thing that replace the turret for a ''common'' configuration, 200$ - a pivoting graduated axe (not from SB), 200$ I have seen the spindle turning, no weird sound, and the ways seem somewhat good (the mark to retain oil are still there at low-use place, but not at low and mid range of the way) the lathe turn at 800 RPM, so i plan to change the motor to a faster one (1800 to 3500 then reducing strap....anyway, it is on 500Volt and I only have 220V)and get a 1200 RPM....anyone done that before? This is because ill mainly do 1'' diameter part 1000 CAN$ is about 800 US$ so I'm open for any comment about this lathe! ps: sorry for bad English, I speak French. Guillaume C. (16891)
First off, South bends are not designed to spin faster than 1000 rpm about. So I wouldn't do that if I was you with the motor swap. VERY few lathes have the decorative marks on them anymore. Quite frankly they are for more show than holding oil. Although they sure do look pretty. Your in Canada, I hear south bends are expensive up there and hard to find. (16892)
I'm new as well but just got my SB 10 Heavy and was wondering the same things you were at one point. You don't want to turn that fast that's for sure. Getting a motor that will replace the 550v one will be expensive if done right so consider that in your final costs. I know that there are some nice lathes out there that were used in factories that seem cheap but most are on that darn 550v system again. Maybe keep looking like I did for one on 220v.Mine was selling for $3500 but got it for $2000CDN,a good deal around my parts in Ontario. Do try to get a SB though. They are so well made it isn't funny. I was thinking of one of those import 9x20 ones and it was a total piece of crap compared to the SB. They are always a compromise and need a lot of fixing even out of the box. That is what I've read anyway My SB lathe is from 1955 and looks almost like new and they look like they will last forever with care. You might consider keeping your eye open for a better deal. This is just my personal observation of course and maybe the guys here can give better advice or even tell you how to make the one you spoke of to work. By the way your English is just fine my friend. There are other Canadians in the group as well. Tom (16894)
As for the motor, why you think it would be expensive? I think a simple 110 or 220v motor will fit in easily. No? (16895)
It does. I use used garage sale motors in both my 9 and heavy 10. Even new quality motors are not really "expensive". My observation is that the motor is the least expensive part of the package. And my cheapo motors have been working for years Both are 110 V capacitor start Need advice on buying a SB lathe (16896)
I guess I stand corrected. I was under the impression that a good quality 220 /110 1 HP electric motor was very expensive. I did say the guys here have a lot of good advice didn't I? If you can get a cheaper one to work then that's great. Do you have more information on the lathe you are looking at?. That should bring more advice from the others. A serial number would help as well. Tom (16898)
I would be more worried about the overall condition of the machine than the motor. I would look in the oil cups-reservoirs and see if it has been oiled regularly. I think most of the wear and tear on these old lathes are from not being oiled in use. I have been to many auctions and looked at s bends and seen a lot with no oil in them at all. Look up inside the quick change gearbox-make sure no one has packed it in grease to quiet it down. If the machine is under power try some test cuts. (16914)
Heavy 10 purchase
Where are the best places to look for a heavy 10. I live in Buffalo, NY. (16921)
You have any family in CT? I suggest a visit. Check out www.bargainnews.com go to tools section, search for south bend lathe. Heck, while your at it, check out Bridgeport mills if you like. (16924)
Buffalo, I'm in Orchard Park. Bought my Heavy 10 from Master Machine in Jamestown. They were very good people to work with. Joe (16925)
Sobels in Closter NJ is another good one. JP (16927)
Buying a Lathe
From time to time there are questions posted to the group, and others, about buying this or that lathe or milling machine, what to look for, how to check it out, etc. While all the numerous answers are very good information, including references to the UK site and others, videos would be the next best thing to actually having someone experienced with you when investigating a machine. On a visit to Guy Lautard's site this morning I found this video. It appears to be what many of the "newbie's" and maybe those of us that are restoring machines would find useful. It has the added gem of showing the how's and why's of scraping. Check it out. http://lautard.com/lmv.htm Fred (16951)
A couple more questions, guys. Last night a 10K went to 761.00 on Ebay but did not make reserve. 7 bids, a couple were multiples. This guy said the bed had some wear, but it had a load of tooling, including collets. What's up with the price? Freight on a lathe from Pennsylvania to Oklahoma at 1000# with a hydraulic gate delivery is over 500 bucks. If one is looking at lathes all over the country versus some closer to home, don't you have to take into account shipping? I mean, if you have a lathe closer to home for more money, but free shipping (or pickup), isn't that somewhat offset by the potential shipping cost of having one moved across the country? Okay, road trip, you go get it, but you still have to pay for gas, food, and room, so that in reality still needs to be added to the cost of the thing, right? Still looking for the "perfect" 10. Brian (20537)
Of course you have to take shipping costs into account and add them to the price you paid for the lathe to obtain its real "cost" to you. If the 10k had underneath drive and a pile of tooling, then the total cost of around $1200 is not outrageous. But that depends on what the seller means by "some wear" Without seeing it, it could be a junker. You also need to truly decide if you want to: a) rebuild a lathe as a hobby, or b) use your lathe. If it's (a) then go for the cheap - you'll wind up paying anway. If it's (b) then buy the best you can afford. Don't forget, you will amortize the cost of the lathe over many years (hopefully). I went the (b) route and never regretted it. The only thing my 10k needed was a motor swap to single phase and the outboard roller bearing on the headstock. It was and still is cherry. Simple amortization has it costing me now about $2.00 per day. My Clausing 8520 vertical mill, which took me a two-day drive and an overnight to get, is now costing me $5.00 or so per day. I think when you look at it this way, our hobby is pretty cheap. Can't get a bottle of drinkable wine for that! Frank (20541)
I think it id the same lathe I was watching for fun. It was re-listed under ebay number 3833830753 This time there is no reserve on it. If you watch the description, the telescopic follower rest and steady rest are no longer listed with the machine. I think the collet set is also gone. The big plus on this machine: it has the taper attachment. I would expect a couple thou of wear on the bed ways. A good scraping project! Guy (20543)
Buy New SB Lathe?
I understand South bend still makes 10" lathes: CL187-BR -$12,950. It is reasonable to buy these lathes new ? How does the quality compare with lathes manufactured earlier? (24246)
Sir and anyone interested: I talked to Southbend Sales last month about an old style heavy 10 in lathe. They sent me pictures of the model they make now and even a picture of the old std heavy ten (by accident). The new machine is made in Australia I think he said and the LAST of the HEAVY 10 style we all know was assembled and sold in 2004: There are no more of the old style to be made or plans of any kind to make any more in the US. The cost to buy a heavy ten old style with a taper when they had them was @ 20,000 and the new ones he quoted me Australian version with tool room stuff at just a few dollars under 20. I think they only make one size heavy ten, a four and a half foot and they now call it a 33 or something measure of between centers. and I think he said you could get standard model or tool room with taper att. Now after passing on my babbling about the old girls To answer your question for my opinion of new or old style. I have ran Southbend heavy tens for ni 40 years now. I try and always make sure of getting flame hardened bed and wide range gear box for my type work. I have seen and I hope I am not cutting off my nose in front of my face with this group but I have seen better machines and machines that would do things better BUT I like SouthBends for the user friendly and the price for what you got and they are comfortable for me. For some jobs I would dream of a nice machine of another brand that would be wonderful but for all around work I always have found the old heavy ten perfect fit. Usually its the operator 99.9% anyhow. Old Southbend Heavy 10s are great little machines. As for the new model made across the ponds ? Cant say , never seen one except in pictures. I would say from personal experience that you cant knock something till you try it. Some of those fellows over there are wonderful at mafg. If you are on a budget I would say it is going to be hard to beat a used machine in good shape for the money. An old friend once told me something that made since Buy the best you can afford. Grumpy (24260)
$10,000 will buy allot of lathe more than a Heavy 10 would be. The heavy 10 is a good little lathe but not worth over $10,000 even brand new. I could buy a dream lathe for $6,000, maybe not new but far better than a heavy 10. I have owned a 9", 10K and now own a Heavy 10 and a South Bend 14". But I have bought and sold some lathes that are very nice machines, for less than $5000. (24272)
Are you set in the idea of a brand new lathe? Or a Very good condition used machine?? Living in Long Island you have access to a bunch of used machines. I live in CT about 2 hours from LI (unless you are way out, the LIE is one big parking lot) There are many good machines in the area for great prices. One big question is weight, if you want to keep it at about 1000 pounds your choices are limited, but moving 1000 pounds or 2000 pounds is about the same unless its going down stairs. I know someone about 45 minutes from LI with a very nice monarch with all the goodies, lathe is in great shape, lathe is used but is more than a New heavy 10 will ever be. I love SB lathes, I own 2 but they aren't top of the line. Have you talked to Marshal Machine in LI, he's not to bad to deal with. (24277)
As in a earlier note I wrote even the Southbend web page is outdated according to the sales person I talked to. The heavy ten we know shipped its last one in 2004 and are no more. I can not understand why they still have a picture even on the web of the old Heavy ten. All the heavy tens are Australian made now and look different, we received a pic with some literature . Kinda looks like the Jet style that has some SB injected into it. Really hate to see the old girl gone but guess even the best run their course sooner or later. Grumpy (24278)
I guess I am outdated on that, the last I heard, and that was some time ago, was that Southbend was having castings made in PA. JP (24282)
Tom, Look at Harrison lathes very substantial and used ones can be found For less than 2500 in great shape. I have an Atlas and a heavy 10 but A good friend brags about taking a .250 cut on a 2 bar on a Harrison Without breaking a sweat. George(24293)
Myford, made in England, one for sale on www.Lautard.com , it was ordered fully loaded just before the owner passed away. Not sure if they are still made but a Kerry lathe is another good one. If you are looking for pre-owned try Sobels in NJ. JP(24294)
My dream lathe would be a Monarch 10EE with the Jacobs Collet chuck (the one with the rubber rim) and the coolant delivery system. Mike (24306)
The Monarch I am talking about is a 10EE with light use and extras, I also have had a conversation with a person selling a Harrison 9" not sure how old but I thick it is a d1-4 mount. He was looking for $1100 for the Harrison. (24308)
 
     
 

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