| Jacobs 59A/59B Hollow Body
Spindle Nose Chucks (Aug 17, 2002) |
58B Jacobs headstock chuck
(Jun 30, 2003) |
| Jacobs chuck (Sep 28,
2002) |
Jacobs Runout (Jan 19, 2004) |
|
Making a Jacobs headstock chuck (Nov 19, 2002) |
Jacobs Tail Stock Chuck Key (SB 10K) (Mar 18, 2004) |
|
Mounting Taper on Jacobs Chuck (Nov 23, 2002) |
Jacobs on the headstock (Mar 21, 2004) |
| Jacobs chucks (Jan 11,
2003) |
Alternative for Headstock Drill Chuck? (Jun 24, 2003) |
| Jacobs 8TPI chuck for 9" SB
(Jun 13, 2003) |
10L headstock chuck (Oct
24, 2004) |
| |
| Jacobs 59A/59B Hollow Body
Spindle Nose Chucks |
| South Bend Lathe
offered these Hollow Body Spindle Nose Chucks as Catalog Numbers
CE907 and CE925. The CE907 is the Jacobs 58A and 58B and has a
capacity of 1/8" to 5/8". The CE925 is the Jacobs 59B and has a
capacity of 3/16" to 3/4". The SBL 10K has a 27/32" hole through the
spindle and the 9" has a 3/4" hole through the spindle. Back in 1958
SBL sold the CE907 for $20.00 and the CE925 for $23.75. I just
noticed that in the 1973 Catalog the CE907 was up to $60.00 and the
CE925 was up to $71.25. You can imagine what they would sell new for
now! The last time I looked Jacobs still had replacement parts
(jaws, sleeves, etc). These chucks were and are very popular as they
also fit all Metal Lathes with 1 1/2" x 8 TPI Spindles which include
some Atlas and others. I have a 59A and 3 or 4 59B's including a new
59B still in the box. Jim (5825) |
| Jacobs chuck |
| Tooling received
when I bought my 9c sb was a #100 Jacobs chuck 1/4 to 3/4 its
mounted with a #2 morse taper to a #33jacobs taper arbor I haven't
been able to find any info on it. can anyone shed some light on
this. in like new condition with brass/bronze jaws. I cant seem to
tighten anything that wont slip. Does it req a spanner wrench. rick
(6478) |
| This
is a shaft centering chuck for turning generator and starter armatures
that are not drilled for normal centers. The correct name for it is
centerless armature turning chuck. Nice piece and not to common as only
automotive shops bought them. I know them well as I have two of them,
one that came with my South Bend and one that came with the Atlas 6" I
used to have. It is used by having an armature locked in the large
Jacobs drill chuck that threads on to the spindle in place of one of
the turning chucks and then the centerless chuck is used in the
tailstock by easily tightening the chuck until the armature runs true
and smooth, and then lock the ring down and oil the jaws good and go to
work turning the comuntator. Another goodie is the mica undercutter
either hand or power that are harder to find. JWE (6479) |
| That explains why I cant use this as a normal chuck. Maybe I can
figure how it mite be useful on the lathe for my uses. rick
(6480) |
| If I'm
not mistaken, that Jacobs chuck with the "brass/bronze jaws" is
designed for holding the end of a shaft at the tail stock end that
has a finished diameter AND ALLOW IT TO TURN...like a bushing. I
believe it was designed for use in turning comutators. Mario (6484) |
| Rick; It's
a "tailstock steady rest" in effect, used when turning precision
shaft mounted items such as generator or motor commutators. You
close the jaws to a nice sliding fit, oil heavily, and turn the
commutator. Not as good as a live chuck for the tailstock, but
plenty good for the intended application. Hopefully the jaws haven't
been trashed by trying to use it as a standard chuck? These things
are pretty rare, hang on to it! If you don't want it, please post to
the group first, I imagine the folks that don't have one or
something similar would be happy to have a chance at getting one.
I've only heard of them, never held one in my hands. I've made
bronze bushings to allow the same function, holding the bushings in
a normal tailstock drill chuck. Certainly don't swap it for anything
less than a high end Jacobs chuck, or good quality (Rohm or better)
keyless chuck on arbor. Stan (6485) |
| Making a Jacobs
headstock chuck |
| I'm thinking of
taking one of my extra Jacobs chucks 1/4-13/16 cap. and drilling and
threading it for my spindle 1 1/2x8. Has anyone done or tried
this, do you foresee any problems with this. Scott.
(7410) |
| I
thought I'd suggest a alternate route. Reached over and grabbed my
KITTs industrial tools catalog and they offer a 3mt with 0-1/2" chuck
for $10.95 and a 4mt and chuck for $11.95, then on another page either
2mt or 3mt and 1/16" to 5/8" chuck for $19.95. I think Enco, MSC and
maybe some others also offer these setups very reasonable. obviously
these aren't made for rocket science, but I've got a couple and have
been well pleased. bill (7412) |
| I
think you'll find that the socket you want to drill is hardened. I
use a Jacob chuck with a #3 Morse taper in the head spindle which
works fine as long as you are applying pressure toward the
headstock. If you are trying to turn something mounted in the chuck
it will loosen with any back pressure. For drilling it should work
fine. Another solution would be to drill and tap the end of the
Morse taper shank and use a draw bar to hold the taper in place. If
you drill and thread the chuck I think you'll have problems with
concentricity of the chuck. There is no simple way of boring and
getting your hole centered with the Jacob chuck jaws. Gripping a rod
in the chuck and centering the rod using a four jaw chuck would be
one way but your cuts will have to be light while boring and
threading. Ted (7421) |
| Over the past
few years I've bought a few items from Kitts and have, in each case,
been unsatisfied. I returned some, threw the rest away. I think
their prices are so low for a reason. Frank
(7423) |
| Just make
very sure it is central and parallel to the headstock etc.
pp
(7427) |
| The problem
that you have is that when adapting a chuck to a lathe you always
make the thread first then machine the rest on the same lathe. In
your case the rest is already machined. It is very difficult to
reverse the process. I have tried several times to make this
adaptation, and was not satisfied with the concentricity. I have one
of those headstock chucks for the 1 1/2-8 spindles and it is really
handy. The next best thing is a big Jacobs chuck with a MT3 adapter
and a drawbar. You get the concentricity but the work must be short
pieces. If you try to drill and thread it and fail to achieve
concentricity, that dandy chuck is toast. RC
(7428) |
| Mounting Taper
on Jacobs Chuck |
| What is necessary
to mount or remove a taper on a Jacobs chuck? I assume they are
not threaded and the tapers cannot be swapped from chuck to chuck.
(7512) |
| You want
taper wedges. Go to www.mcmaster.com and search on the words:
Jacobs
wedge They're less than $6 a set, or you can make your own.
c (7531) |
| Some Jacobs
chucks are threaded to the arbor but most are not. I think the
largest threaded I can remember is about 1/2 inch. At work we use a
mixture of dry ice and alcohol to chill the arbor in. This gets to
about 40 below zero and allows just enough shrinkage to allow a
perfect fit to the chuck when it expands. Wedges can be bought to
drive between chuck and arbor to remove. However I have always
questioned the wisdom of this. Arbors and chucks become almost as
one after fitting together and being used. It makes no sense to put
a used arbor on a new chuck or a new arbor on a used chuck.
(7532) |
| Jacobs chucks
|
| I have picked up a few
Jacobs Super Ball Bearing drill chucks. The price was not to
extravagant and I need to put a different arbor in two of them and
press one apart to replace the jaws. This all seemed like a
wonderful cost saving idea until I tried it. How do you get that
#$%^ ^ arbor out of the back of the chuck? The one I am working on
now is a 3/8" chuck with a 1/2" straight arbor on the back. The
straight arbor is a bit bent so it can't be used. I want a MT#2
arbor on it for my drill press anyway. I do have the wedges from
Jacob's to separate them. I placed the straight arbor in my vise and
pushed - OK hammered the wedges together to try and pop of the arbor
but it only slides in the vise jaws. The vise is a decent Craftsman
one and I am tightening it as much as I can but it keeps sliding
out. I have not tired heating the chuck yet and see that as a last
resort unless someone has had experience with this. The center of
the chuck has a hole in it and I have tried to use a punch only to
bend the punches. I have tried some penetrating oil with no success.
I have thought about trying to drill it out but am afraid I may ruin
the smooth taper in the chuck. Alex
(8629) |
| Drill and tap (as you big as you can) the end of the arbor. - Place
arbor in vice with enough room to place your wedges - From the other
end, screw a bolt with a heavy washer until you butt against the
side of the jaws of your vice. - Place wedge on other end and smack
the day lights out of the sucker! If this does not cure the problem,
it could be screwed in! (8630) |
| If it's any
help some are threaded. Dave (8632) |
| That chuck
should be marked as to whether its a threaded body or a Jacobs taper
etc. In the spaces between the holes for the key there are stampings
giving the model and other vital stats. I would remove the jaws and
sleeve before you really put any pressure on the body. The
instructions are on the Jacobs website. They say to support the
sleeve on your vice jaws, but I bored out some sleeves that work
better (drift tubes). Also good for reassembly. Make sure you are using
the right wedges, there are several sizes. There may also be markings
on the arbor. RC(8633) |
| Alex. You
might want to open the jaws of the chuck and look down inside the
chuck and see if there is a screw at the bottom of the chuck. Some of
these chucks have a screw to help hold the chuck onto the arbor. If
there is, it will probably be left hand threads. Take the screw out and
the place the arbor in a vise and then see if it will unscrew from
the arbor or can be driven off. Bill C.
(8634) |
| The chuck from
which the arbor will not come off is an 11N. It has the straight
shank on it. The chuck does not say anything about the size of the
taper. All the catalogs that sell these chucks new say it has a 2JT.
I looked at it again. It has no nut on the inside and appears to be
no visible threads between the arbor and the chuck. I also have two
14N chucks. One says it has a 3JT and the other says nothing on it.
A different year of manufacture I am sure. The one that says nothing
on it came without an arbor and it has a 3JT taper in it.
Alex (8635) |
| I have never
seen a 11n with a threaded mount. The hole in the bottom of the
chuck body (inside the jaws) MAY NOT be drilled all the way thru.
There should be a space between the bottom of the taper hole in the
chuck the top of the arbor (good light a small wire). I have seen
this before bent a drift, then drilled deeper found the end of the
arbor. You might also try some penetrating oil, overnight. I have
had great luck with Aero-Kroil (sp?) in an orange spray can.
Expensive ($10 /can) but it claims to migrate into a millionth of an
inch space. I have also had the best results using an arbor press
and a dowel pin. (8637) |
| Alex, They
WILL come out. Plan A: Tap the side of the arbor shank repeatedly
all around with a plastic mallet while holding in the hand or some
soft cushion support. This allows the chuck to respond to the
vibration/bending moment. Rotate the shank as you tap. Stiff blows
are not recommended. Plan B: If it looks possible, open the jaws
and drill a hole thru the bottom of the chuck body to allow a pin
punch to be inserted against the arbor. A sharp, straight, dead blow
works best. I have never had to use plan B. RichD
(8642) |
| First, a
couple of simple questions, mostly because you didn't state it
explicitly in your note- 1. do you have a groove on the shank just
behind the chuck body for one of the wedges to bear against? if this
was a larger arbor and someone turned it down, this groove might be
missing. 2. when you assemble both of the wedges, one wedge should
bear against the back of the chuck body, the other on the shoulder
turned on the shank. sometimes, for whatever reason, the top wedge
will not contact the back of the chuck, 3. do you have the proper
wedges for you chuck? they come in different sizes. there is a top
wedge and a bottom wedge if i recall correctly (alright, I am lazy,
its too late and cold to go out to the shop). the bottom one should
go into/around that groove on the shank. I think that the wedges are
stamped with numbers like 2, 3, 4, 5, corresponding to the Jacobs
taper. i think that the 11N had either a 3JT or 33JT taper to them.
I think I use the no 2 wedges with my 11N. don't quote me on it.
website is supposed to www.jacobschuck.com but
I think since dahner
got involved it doesn't work. check the catalogue at your local
industrial supply if available, of call them at 800-866-5753 the
number i have from way back when. They are/were in clemson sc.
whenever things are pressed in tight like this (ball joints, tie
rods ends, u joints, etc..), I always do the following - a 'trick' I
learned from a grizzled mechanic. 1. apply prying force. in your
case, I would use the vise to drive the wedges. assemble the wedges
on the shank, and put the whole thing the vise with the chuck body
up above the vise jaws, and the shank pointing down. the only place
the whole thing touches is the vise jaws against the wedges.
everything else just hangs there. if you have a drill press vise,
that would be perfect because you can center the ass'y on the line of
action of the screw. If you use a bench vise, you will be off-center
and risk springing the vise if its a cheapy. Start tightening the
vise/wedges. the only other 'problem' might be if the wedges don't
bear on the back of the chuck. One wedge will bear against the
shoulder on the shank, the 2. give the object/housing a good rap
with a hammer. After you have started the wedges and bound them
tight, using whatever object of choice, ideally a brass hammer or
lead hammer, give the chuck body one good rap, the top part that the
key fits into, not the ring gear part. You can hit it up or
sideways. What you are trying to do is induce a shock wave or
vibration to overact the static friction that binds the two
together. Driving the wedges will not affect the action of the
chuck, you are bearing on the shoulder far away from the jaws. If
the chuck is not operating properly, there is a problem internally,
not because of anything that you do to the chuck body. If it didn't
pop, then tighten the vise a bit more. Hit again. You can hit it
from different sides. I have taken a dozen or so chucks apart. It
usually doesn't take mote than 2-3 tries to get it loose. the chuck
will pop with a potentially violent action, I have found that
holding a rag around the body and over the wedges and shank, with my
other hand over it to catch the chuck it when it releases. usually
they just jump a 1/2 inch or so. There is no need to disassemble the
chuck. if it operates smoothly, no need. If you want to regrease
that's another story. I do not think that penetrating oil will help,
you will only make a mess and loosen the grease inside. that arbor
and taper are wrung tight. If you can get oil in there, you will
have other problems like the chuck spinning. I don't think heat will
help you, you will only have a hot potato to handle later. Jacobs
website had their catalog online and in there there is the proper
procedure on disassembling, its not in the index, you have to go
hunting for it. Its like a sidebar. The outer cylinder that the
chuck key engages (the ring gear if you will and the part attached
to it) must be pressed off. I can not remember EXACTLY but I seem to
recall that you have to open the jaws like halfway to do it. And if
you do take it apart, yes that circular ring that looks like it is
cracked in tow is supposed to be cracked in two. MAKE SURE YOU MARK
THE JAWS TO PUT BACK TOGETHER IN THE PROPER ORDER! dennis
(8644) |
| I thought I'd add a method I just
used on a few chucks I bought from eBay. Basically, I inserted the
two wedges 180 degrees apart on the arbor and made sure they were
centered (the thin parts of the wedges should overlap). I then laid
the chuck horizontally on a piece of hardwood so that one wedge was
against the wood and the other was straight up. I then went to work
with "The Punisher" (my dead-blow hammer) and off it came. As
mentioned in previous posts, this only works if you have a nice
bearing surface on both the chuck and the arbor. It still scratches
things up a bit, but that really doesn't matter.
Jeff (8645) |
| This is what I did with
two chucks as well. I think the hammer works better than the vice as
it imparts a shock to help break the seal. Wedges with the proper
size slot are also important. Mark
(8647) |
| Dennis, the arbor does not have a groove on the shank to use the
wedges against. The arbor has a smaller diameter than the portion in
the chuck. I have thought of arc welding a washer of some sort onto
the arbor to use the wedges against. I want to try some of the other
ideas given here before I do that. I see using any sort of heat as a
last resort. I went down to the local industrial hardware store and
got all the correct wedges from Jacobs and the rebuild kits for the
appropriate chucks. My problem was the arbor sliding in the vise I
used. Alex (8653) |
| Jacobs 8TPI
chuck for 9" SB |
| Anyone know if ENCO
carries the 8TPI threaded Jacobs chuck for the South Bend 9"
spindle? I can't seem to locate a listing on their web site. I see
on Ebay there is a seller who has a Jacobs chuck for the 9" - it's
numbered 58B with 8TPI thread. It's listed for almost the price of a
new Jacobs chuck. W. Sharp (11955) |
| I have the
Jacob's 59B. It has a 1 1/2 x 8 threaded mount and 3/16" - 3/4"
capacity. I believe the 58B is the same mount but 5/8" capacity. It
has a 3/4" thru hole allowing bar stock thru the spindle. Jacob's
stopped manufacturing them 10 - 15 years ago. They occasionally come
up on eBay and always sell for over $100. Used dealer's probably
have them also. I paid about $125 a couple of years ago for a very
nice one, purchasing from a used dealer in NY. It's a great chuck,
very versatile and for small work it is much nicer to use than a
conventional 3-jaw chuck.. It's heavy, weighs almost 4 lbs. If you
find one and can afford it I suggest you buy it, you'll like
it. (11956) |
| Well said!
This is a most useful item and hard to find and always over a
hundred dollars. They are accurate, grab well and repeatable.
Frank (11958) |
| There is a
58B on EBAY even as we talk. It's present bid is about $70. It is set
to end in 2 days. #2537423770 Jim B.
(11969) |
| 58B Jacobs
headstock chuck |
| I have a 58B , 1
3/8" -10Pi spindle chuck here, problem is, what I need for my 9" is
1 1/2 - 10 . I have no idea why my late father in law had it, it
won't fit anything in the shop. Maybe he picked it up somewhere by
mistake. Anyway, anyone out there that has a 1 1/2 - 10 that they
would be interested in a swap? Okey
(12363) |
| There is a
mod of the 9" South Bend that has a 1 3/8-10 spindle. It is not too
common. I'm sure that someone who has one of these would love to
have the chuck. There is a 1 1/2-8 on ebay now for sale. I'm sure
yours would sell there too. (12364) |
| A 1 3/8" - 10
chuck will fit a South Bend Junior (8") lathe. Tell me more about it
(size, condition, 3 or 4 jaw, etc.). I may be interested in buying
it from you. Bob (12368) |
| Jacobs Runout
|
| What kind of runout
would be normal for a 58 or 59 Jacobs headstock chuck used on a 9A
with 1 1/2-8 spindle? (16636) |
| I just
checked mine, chucking a 1/2 reamer. Dial indicator indicated .002
runout one inch from chuck. This is on my 10k which is essentially a
9-inch. Frank (16637) |
| Jacobs Tail
Stock Chuck Key (SB 10K) |
| I have checked the
usual sources for a chuck key for a Jacobs MC8K33 chuck. The only
info I have found was this chuck uses a SKK chuck Key. Does anyone
have a source or an extra key they would like to sell. Richard
(17776) |
| McMaster-Carr Supply Co. shows the KK or KKA as the correct key for
the 74K which I think is the same as the MC8K33. Might pay to give
them a call. Ted (17778) |
| The "S"
prefix on SKK means self-extracting meaning it has an internal
plunger to pop the key out of the chuck when released. The SKK and
the KK fit the same chuck. You don't need the SKK because your
tailstock chuck is stationary (non-rotating). You can get the KK from
McMaster and other suppliers. Ted (17779) |
| Jacobs on the
headstock |
| I remember my dad
had just such a set-up for his little Atlas 6" swing lathe. This was
an appealing tooling idea for the 50's hobbyist. Great for working
over bolts off the lawn-mower. You could put anything under 1/2" in
the j-chuck like small arbor mounted wheels for all
occasions. Depending on the size, the chuck jaws could hold anything
from 1/16" in dia. up to 3/4".The larger chucks had a different land
on the jaw to accommodate large work. The problem with most chucks of
this type is their jaws. If you are not careful, you can easily ding
up these jaws. Especially if they are not made correctly, (Chinese
junk) or mis-handled. Look at your jaws with a hand lens and note the
wear on each jaw. Uneven ware occurs if a piece of metal that is not
round or even can spring a chuck. If they are not properly
tightened, drills can spin and gall in the chuck. And of course the
chuck may have a Jacobs birthmark without actually being said
same. (AKA more off-shore junk) The best way to avoid all this is
to:1.re-build your chuck with genuine parts from the Jacobs
people. The kit contains a new threaded ring that does the closing
and 3 new jaws. You label where each jaw came out of on the top of
the chuck, press off the shell and put in the new parts. Usually there
is some info that comes with the kit that outlines the
procedure.2.Treat your now re-built chuck with a little more care. If
your using your lathe as a drill press, be sure the bits are clean
and tight in the chuck when using.3.Buy the right stuff. Knock-offs
are drowning the honest tool user. Keep your supplier on their
toes, by asking where they get their wares, (you could also raise all
toilets a foot as well, but it's a bit early for April 1st!).
Ron
(17867) |
| Does anyone
know if a rebuild kit is available for the 59b? If who can supply
it?
(17871) |
| Rebuild kit
is available. It is the same as the Jacobs 36 series. The difference
is the chuck body itself. I think that Travers Tools sells them. Guy (17874) |
| Be careful when you dismantle. Keep in note the Also note
that when you take a Jacobs apart the ring shaped nut is broken in
half. Don't try to fix that as it has to be in two pieces to allow
assembly.
(17875) |
| Great
info. I located the kit at MSC Jacobs on the headstock Rebuild kit
is available. It is the same as the Jacobs 36 series. The difference
is the chuck body itself. I think that Travers Tools sells them. Guy (17894) |
| Alternative
for Headstock Drill Chuck? |
| I'm looking to
purchase a Jacobs style headstock chuck (threaded 1.5" - 8tpi) for
my 9" SB. The chucks you find on Ebay (any ideas for a different
source?) go for a premium, when you can find them. I was curious to
know whether a 3MT Arbor in the headstock fitted to a suitable drill
chuck not do basically the same thing? I'm looking to use it for
turning smaller parts, and for drilling when using a milling
attachment. Would there be a big advantage of holding out and
getting the 1.5" - 8tpi headstock chuck? Keep in mind this is
strictly hobby use (and newbie hobby use at that). While I'm asking
questions, I'll go ahead and ask about a cross-slide for a taper
attachment. I've got the taper attachment coming, now I'm looking
for the taper attachment style cross-slide, feedscrew and nut. Dave
(12244) |
| I think it is worth holding out for the threaded Jacobs
headstock chuck. It is the first accessory I bought for my 10k. It
is almost as good as collets and if you do much with smaller stuff,
you will use it all the time. Accurate, convenient and grabs good.
Jacobs doesn't make them anymore and they run around a hundred bucks
or a tad more. If you use a 3mt chuck you won't be able to stick
long stock thru it - a big advantage of the threaded chuck. Great
item! Frank
(12246) |
| That's what I was missing! I never thought of that. Very important
point. I knew I must have been missing something as it just seemed
too simple my way. Frank. (12248) |
| The chucks you
find on Ebay (any ideas for a different source?) go for a premium,
when you can find them. I was curious to know whether a 3MT Arbor in
the headstock fitted to a suitable drill chuck not do basically the
same thing? I'm looking to use it for turning smaller parts, and for
drilling when using a milling attachment. Would there be a big
advantage of holding out and getting the 1.5" - 8tpi headstock
chuck? Keep in mind this is strictly hobby use (and newbie hobby use
at that). For *axial* cutting this would be acceptable. For anything
involving a radial force on the chuck, such as mounting an end mill
in the chuck to use with a milling attachment or chucking small
stock and reducing the diameter or even facing the end, this is
asking for trouble. The 3MT arbor will tend to work out of the
spindle taper and, even if you used a drawbar to hold the 3MT taper
in, the chuck would tend to work its way off the Jacobs taper. I see
somebody else has mentioned the 3MT arbor preventing the passage of
long stock through the chuck and spindle. You will probably find
people who say they use your proposed setup all the time and haven't
had a problem. Let me suggest you append the word "yet" to their
statements. I recommend you hold out for a proper headstock chuck or
go to a collet setup. Anthony
(12268) |
| I hadn't thought of
the ability of passing stock through the chuck into the spindle. I
wasn't looking to use it instead of an end mill holder, but strictly
for holding small parts when machining, or even more so, drilling
while using a milling attachment. I do have my eye on a headstock
drill chuck currently on E-bay. If I don't get
this chuck, I'm still going to buy a 3MT arbor and a drill chuck to
do some of the stuff I want to do, realizing now it's limitations.
Dave
(12269) |
| I bought a
Jacobs model 50 rubberflex collet chuck, rather than the headstock
drill chuck. Its great has a capacity up to 1 1/16 and runs true to
less than .0005" It was expensive but worth the price, because it
does pass long material through the headstock and it has large
capacity. Also, not noted by the other posters, the are 2 different
versions of the headstock chuck. One has 5/8 capacity the other has
3/4 capacity. Look for one in good condition, I've heard that they
can be sensitive to damage, and run-out. Pete (12270) |
| This link
might be interesting for some:
http://www.finelinehair.com/home/jacobs_chucks.htm
Len
(12271) |
| Please
explain about this link. I went to the site and backed in from the
chuck page, a lot of interesting stuff there but it's not clear
whether this is a personal site or a commercial one. What
particularly interested me was the dividing head but I couldn't
judge size and couldn't check on certain details that interest me.
Where can I find out more about the information on this site? Anthony
(12288) |
| It was just
something I found when searching on chucks, thought there might be
some interesting info there. Len (12290) |
| 10L headstock
chuck |
| Any SB heavy
10 owner's out there have a Jacobs headstock chuck? I have never
seen one on Ebay, and am just wondering if such a thing exists for
the 10L? William (21507) |
| The largest Jacobs headstock chuck was made for 1 1/2 x 8 threaded spindles
there were none made for spindles larger than that they were made
for smaller size spindles also (21508) |
