| Correct Collet size (Feb
9, 2001) |
Collet sizes (Aug 1, 2003) |
| Collets for 9" Southbend
(Feb 25, 2001) |
Is
this a 3AT Collet? (Sep 2, 2003) |
| 3at collet set (Oct 14,
2001) |
9"
collet question (Nov 17, 2003) |
| Collets (Oct 17, 2001) |
6K
Collets purchase (Dec 20, 2003) |
| Collet Identification
(Nov 11, 2001) |
Collets (Jan 17, 2004) |
| South Bend 10K Collets?
(Mar 25, 2002) |
MT
3 collets disadvantages? (Jan 28, 2004) |
| 6k collets (Jul 23, 2002) |
Collet stops (Jan 31, 2004) |
| Collets with LOO spindle
(Sep 2, 2002) |
Collet Question (Feb 11, 2004) |
| 6K collet stop (Sep 30,
2002) |
4c
Collet dimensions? (Mar 9, 2004) |
| 5C and 3C collets (Oct
14, 2002) |
Collets for a 9" (Apr 9, 2004) |
| SB Collet help needed
(Oct 26, 2002) |
Collet suggestions needed (Apr 22, 2004) |
| MT3 collets (Dec 14,
2002) |
Old collets (Jun 20,
2004) |
| Cherry wood collet rack
(Feb 15, 2003) |
Collets for 9" Junior New from
late 1920's (Jul 22, 2004) |
| Morse taper collets from Grizzly
(May 1, 2003) |
Collet question? (Aug 7,
2004) |
| Collet Chucks (May 7,
2003) |
Collet sizes? (Aug 17,
2004) |
| Collet sizes (May 21,
2003) |
Collet adapter key (Aug
28, 2004) |
| 6k collet (Jun 6, 2003) |
6k collets (Nov 6, 2004) |
| R8 Collets #3MT Adapter
(Jun 16, 2003) |
Southbend Lathe Collet
Attachment (Dec 12, 2004) |
| Collet adapter removal
(Jul 9, 2003) |
C4 Collets (Jan 28,
2005) |
| Are
all collets created equal? (Jul 16, 2003) |
Need a Collet? Buy? Make?
(Mar 4, 2005) |
| SB
Collets (Jul 22, 2003) |
ER40 collet chuck (Mar
15, 2005) |
| |
|
| |
| Correct Collet size |
| I recently
purchased a South Bend 10K lathe. It came with a set of #3 collets
which fit fine. I understand that the 10k lathe is supposed to use
6K collets. Does anyone know the difference? Would I benefit by
selling the #3 collets and buying a set of 6K collets? Frank (199) |
| The 9 inch South Bend Lathe
uses 3C collets along with an adapter in the spindle. The 10K lathe
has a modified version of the 9 inch lathe spindle that allows it to
use 6K collets without an adapter in the spindle. The difference is
that the 3C collets are limited to a maximum size of 1/2" (9/16" is
available from some makers). The 6K has a maximum size of 5/8".
Also, the draw tubes are different between 3C and 6K. Because both
the 9" and the 10K have Morse Taper No. 3 spindles, both can use the
3C collets with the spindle adapter. 3C collets are more readily
available and generally cheaper than 6K collets. Webb (200) |
| Collets for 9" Southbend |
| Does anyone know
which size collets work with a 9" SB? (267) |
| 3c is the best fit, but they're
expensive. 5c is too big for a drawbar, but I have seen some collet
chucks that would work. R8 milling collets could be made to work,
but you would be limited to 3/4" or so depth in the collet. Frank (280) |
| I have a 10K
which takes 6K collets. I have always thought the 9 took 4C collets
but I have recently seen some postings (elsewhere) that 9 takes 3C
collets so now I am not positive. Dean (297) |
| SB 9" takes
3C collets which go up to 1/2" 10K takes 6K collets which go up to
5/8" I never heard of 4C being used in SB 9.(298) |
| 3at collet set
|
| Will the 3at
collet set on e-bay #1649865685 fit the 9" model a south bend lathe? (1834) |
| They will if
you have a 3at adapter for the nose of the lathe. Yasmiin (1835) |
| I looked at the
eBay listing, the adapter is part of what's being offered. The only
questions would appear to whether the adapter is correct for the 9"
SB lathe (doesn't *say* 3MT) and whether the drawbar is the correct
length (I don't know what the variations are in spindle length for
SB, Logan, Atlas, etc.) Anthony (1855) |
| Assume at minimum
that you will need to make a new drawbar at the appropriate length.
It isn't too hard though - you will need to find an appropriate
piece of tubing and cut some inside threads. These collets go for
about $30 each new. I'd value the set mainly for the collets, but
consider it a plus if the adapter happens to fit. Chris (1857) |
| I think the dealers
get about $15 for used collets, at least the 6K's. I don't know for
sure what an adapter would go for, I would guess at least $35. The
draw bar can range a bit. I just bought one for $35 on e-bay. I
think they have gone for $75 on up. Anyways, as stated before, if
the collets are worth the price then rest should be viewed as
freebies. (1858) |
| If its any help
I have a 3AT adapter that is MT 3. I would think that that would be
the standard for those collets as it wouldn't work if it were
smaller and if it were bigger they probably would have used a larger
collet. Also if the draw bar is too long then you can machine a
bushing / spacer that would slip over the shaft and take up the
slack. If its too short you can always extend the shaft near the
hand wheel. It would reduce the inside bore there but I usually
don't machine bar before I cut it to length. Yasmiin (1861) |
| Collets |
| I found MT3 collets from 3/16 to 1/2 in the
Smithy catalog (was looking at a smithy before I got my SB), If I'm
thinking right wouldn't these fit into the headstock spindle, you'd
just have to make a drawbar to fit (7/16 is what it says for a
drawbar). M.L. (1900) |
| This is certainly a
way one can go, however this is a milling-machine type collet in the
sense that the drawbar is solid and goes inside the collet, rather
than outside of it. As a result, you won't be able to put workpiece
through the headstock. But if you simply want to hold things that
are already cut to length, it could be a good route. Also Morse
tapers have a lower angle than 3c/5c and are thus not considered
"self releasing" - it may take a substantial mallet whack on the
drawbar to get them to let go, whereas I can usually get the 5c to
release by simply slapping the handwheel with my hand. Speaking of
collets, can anyone explain the difference between the nice old
Jacobs 'rubberflex' collets which are now rare and the
similar-appearing ones that are all over the catalogs which say they
are for tapping heads only? It gets tempting to order one and try to
make a closer. Either that or ER-32... Part of me wants to simply
make an all-new 5C headstock for the SB9. Chris (1904) |
| Matt, I did that on
my Logan 920 except they were MT 2. I made the draw bar from 3/8
threaded rod. The down side besides the max diameter of the stock
you can handle is limited and you can't feed the stock through the
head stock. Chris (1910) |
| My headstock is
3MT, www.littlemachineshop.com has collets whose external taper is 3MT,
is this then a bad idea because slippage will damage my headstock
taper rather than damaging an intermediate sleeve? Heck, why don't I
just grab some barstock and make my own collets and adapter? (1963) |
| You can make your
own if you want, however there are a couple of things to be aware
of. Factory MT collets have a small solid drawbar - i.e., a long bolt.
This means you can't put workpieces through the headstock. If you
make your own, you can put OD threads on the collet and use a piece
of tubing for a drawbar, obtaining probably a 1/2" through capacity.
MT tapers do not release as easily as 3c/5c/etc due to the smaller
angle. It may take a SUBSTANTIAL whack to get them to let go. If you
do make your own collets, I suggest that you do not harden them. In
the hardened condition, any burs or imperfections can tear up the
spindle taper if they spin. In the annealed state (or making them
out of brass) you are much less likely to damage anything. What I
want to do is make a spindle nose chuck for ER-32 collets, or
'simply' replace the whole headstock with something that is natively
5C. Chris (1967) |
| I need to try to make a collet. The
design is like a 5C with external threads but much smaller. An R8 is
only slightly larger in outside diameter (I thought I might be able
to turn down and externally thread an R8, would also need to
slightly flatten the nose taper. However after reading the specs in
the McMaster catalog I feel they are probably too hard steel to
turn. The collet I need is for a Black Diamond 31 drill grinder, is
the large collet that holds the larger bushings and the 3/4" bit for
sharpening. BD wants $120 some-odd for the one collet so I'd like to
try to turn one myself. All it does is hold the bit in place for
sharpening it, no high torque as in milling, drilling, etc. I'd
appreciate any suggestions as to material to use, how to cut the 3
thin slots on the face that allow it to tighten, etc. BTW my eq is
all manual, even though the CAD CAM group is included in the list. Lew (2090) |
| Try 6150 tool steel
hardened to around Rc 54 to 58. Cut the slots with a 1/32 slotting
cutter but leave a little web at the end of the collet. This
prevents the "flanges" distorting during H.T. Also polish very good
while soft any surface that will come in contact with the holder or
drill. We have manufactured collets in our shop in the past but we
ground all the contacting surfaces- external, internal, and angle.
However, for your application this should suffice. Ed
(2094) |
| Have you tried
identifying the collet in the Hardinge catalog. They make EVERY
conceivable collet known to man and ancients. their catalog has good
dimensioned drawings. I think most of their stuff is online in the
Hardinge workholding site. http://hardinge.com
The collet I need is for a Black Diamond 31 drill grinder, is the
large collet that holds the larger bushings and the 3/4" bit for
sharpening. BD wants $120 some-odd for the one collet so I'd like to
try to turn one myself. (2095) |
| You want to
download Hardinge Spindle Tooling for Manual and CNC Lathes document
id number 2348B. At the back of that catalog, page 57, they have a
manufacturer's cross reference and then the pages after that list
the dimensions of the different collet series. 3C, 3AT and 4C are
all there. once you get the part number, search their site. (2106) |
| Got the whole
Hardinge catalog downloaded, found the 3C and 3AT collets. Got all
the info I need to make a drawbar. My question is, for the adapter,
should it be 3MT-to-3C or 1 1/2x8-to-3C? (2116) |
| 3MT to 3C. The
internal taper of the spindle is precision ground, the external
thread is not. I have some diagrams that may help. See:
http://www.lathe.com/part_sht/collet/3at-draw-collet.gif
http://www.lathe.com/images/5-c.gif
Scott Logan(2117) |
| To see collet
dimensions, go to:
http://www.hardingeworkholding.com/PDF/2348B.PDF
That's a 2.4meg download, which is a great reference manual. Keep a
copy on your hard disk for your next collet question. It lists
hundreds of collets, their users, and dimensions. For the 3AT, it
lists back bearing dimension as .687", length as 2.313", and thread
as 0.637"x26TPI RH. For the 3C, it lists back bearing dimension as
.650", length as 2.688", and thread as 0.640"x26TPI RH. Both are
good to 1/2" maximum for round stock. If you need used ones at a
fair price, try Sobel Machinery in NJ. I just bought a few from them
and they were quite reasonable. Bob (2118) |
| It appears to be a 4c. couldn't find it at Hardinge online catalog, plan to call them today after I get good
measurements when I go to the shop. I have Xerox copies (from
Hardinge) of many of the Hardinge collets. The 4C dimensions are:
Nose diameter 1-5/32"; Parallel diameter .949"; Drawbar thread
15/16" x 20 NS RH; Overall length 3"; Length of taper 9/16"; Length
of thread 5/8". Tell me if the above positively identifies the
collet for you. If not, please cite the dimensions of the same
elements for your collet, I'll try to compare it with the
information I have. Anthony (2121) |
| Collet
Identification |
| With all this info
about collets that has erupted lately I still can't find out what
type collet system I have. It is not listed in any of the references
that have been given here. It came with my SB 9" model A built in
1946. Here is a picture of the holder and collet these are in the
Files section under SB A C.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/files/SB%20A%20%26%20C/Collet%20Closer%20and%20Collets.jpg
If anybody know what these are I would appreciate knowing. The
collets are approx. 1" in diameter and about 1.25" long. Randy (2122) |
| They appear to be
what's called acorn collets. I can't recall who the mfrs. were but
saw them at a few machine shop I worked at over the years. Dwight
(2124) |
| South Bend 10K
Collets? |
| Please tell me what
the proper size of collets are used with the 10K model. (3749) |
| The 10 K uses the
6K collets. You can us 3C with the same collet adapter sleeve as the
9 inch. Tom (3753) |
| I purchased a 10K
Lathe and would like to know what collets fit it, please.
(3758) |
| 6k collets |
| I have been
looking for 6k collets for my 10k lathe, and am wondering, if I find
the collets but no draw bar, how difficult is it to locate a
drawbar? I the drawbar for the 6k collets unique to them, or will
another draw bar work? Anyone have some 6k collets for sale? Scott (5307) |
| I have
and use the 10K SBL P/N CL4306K Handwheel Collet Attachment and the
6K collets which I bought new. You can still buy the 6K notched
collets new from Hardinge Tooling but you'll choke at the price and
you'll still have to get the draw bar.
I rarely find the 6K series notched collets in used condition but
the much more common 3C collets and SBL P/N CL4306N Handwheel Collet
Attachment (draw bar) for the 9" SBL are much more common or can be
made. Do a search of this forum. The 3C Collet has a maximum
capacity of 1/2" and the 6K has a maximum capacity of 5/8" which
doesn't justify the greater cost to gain 1/8". Jim
(5308) |
| I dunno,
anything smaller than 5c is a frustration. Been seriously eying one
of my Hardinge with an idea to grafting an H-head onto the 10 k,
smooth acting lever collet closer and all. The sheer perversity and
potential to outrage large groups of civilized people in several
camps adds to the appeal... I do think the extra 1/8" of 6K over 3c
is useful, such as it is. It does astonish me that people with
lathes get concerned about simple threaded tubes like a handwheel
collet closer as a sticking issue in whether to proceed with other "desirable"
features. I can understand the interest in pristine, all OEM units
as a collector proposition. As a practical matter, how hard is it to
make a draw tube, when lathe work is the hobby? Stephen
(5309) |
| Scott, Even
if you bought the collets and couldn't find a draw bar it would be
pretty simple to make one.... a piece of half inch round stock
threaded appropriately at one end and a knob and a bearing surface
at the other. If you take a close look at one I think you'll agree.
Mario (5311) |
| Scott, I got
the felt material, thanks. 6K collets come up on E-bay from time to
time. There are some metric collets item number 1751930588. You
could try the parts dealers. I think Plaza Machinery sells 6K
collets for $15-20 used. He also sells a threaded end to be
soldiered on the end of a tube that threaded for 6K collets. I think
its $35 though. I also see some sell drawbar kits on E-bay from time
to time. But I think you could buy some material and a hand wheel,
just as well. I'll check my 6K collets, but I think I only have one
duplicate in a millimeter collet. 6K collets do come in Hexes and
squares. I haven't seen any clutch collets for them, but they are
probably out there. I guess you have to figure out if that extra 1/8
capacity is worth it. Also, with 3C collets you have to have the
adapter. They can cost $40 and up. I think a new one is $130. Tom
(5316) |
| Collets with
LOO spindle |
| I'm another
newbie with a Heavy 10 lathe. Can I use
5C collets with this lathe which has an LOO spindle (tapered keyed)?
Would a face plate have to be used to hold the threaded collar that
normally secures the chuck? I don't have the manual for this
machine. It is 1968 vintage. Joe (6124) |
| Joe
You certainly can use 5C collets with an L00 spindle heavy 10, assuming
it is not one of the rare heavy 10's with the small (~1") spindle bore.
The collet adapter goes on the inside taper of the spindle, and the L00
is an outside, male taper, so it is quite possible that the same collet
adapter is used on the L00 as the other spindle arrangements. My 1958
catalog and several parts lists shows the same part number for the
collet adapter for both the 2 1/4" x 8 threaded spindle and the L00
spindle, but they also show the same part number for things I know (or
think I know) have to be different, like the faceplate. You may need to
find somebody else who actually has an L00 version to answer this. I
expect one of the suppliers like Dave Feiken (Meridian Machinery) can
likely tell you, and may have one to sell. On faceplates and chucks,
these come with a back arrangement which fits the L00 taper directly.
You can either find a chuck which already has a L00 back, or get a L00
backing plate of the right diameter to fit whatever chuck you have or
find, and then machine the backplate (on your lathe, of course) to fit
the chuck. Again you can see what you can find on Ebay, or contact one
of the dealers who deal with the amateur community, like Dave. Another
is Sobel Machinery in Closter NJ. Both these guys will deal with mail
order, and both can be trusted. There isn't a manual per-se. There is a
parts list, and various notes which help with specific adjustments,
etc. There is also a lubrication chart to tell you where to oil and
with what oil. If you don't have one already, by all means find a copy
of "How to Run a Lathe", by SB. Almost any vintage will do (they have
published it since the teens, I believe), but a version from 1950 or so
will be a better fit with your lathe than some of the very early ones.
Frank (6143) |
| 6K collet stop
|
| Any of you
guys know of an outfit that sells an adjustable collet stop for 6K
(Light 10) collets?
(6496) |
| I'm a little
mixed up by what you mean by the term adjustable collet stop for the
6K. I have and use the 6K collets on my 10K which are made in
different sizes. If I'm in a hurry I also use my Jacobs 58B (SBL P/N
CE907) or 59B (SBL P/N CE925) Hollow Body Spindle Nose Chucks that
allow turning long pieces of round stock and function as adjustable
collets. When you say adjustable collet "stop" are you referring to
the Collet Closing Sleeve which is "not" required on the SBL 10K
lathe that use the 6K Collets. The 10K spindle is machined to close
the 6K collets. I hope the above info was of use to you. Also, in
the September/October 2002 issue of The Home Shop Machinist Magazine
there is a good article on how to make your own 3C and 6K Collets.
Jim (6512) |
| Collet Stop:
It is a special tool that is inserted into the rear-end of the
collet, that is used to limit the depth of a work-piece, so that
repetitive operations can be performed on multiple work
pieces such as "cut-off". Each piece would be cut to the
same length. The device is common for the 5C Collet, and is held in
the collet by using the internal thread of the collet or by
cam-locks, as in the "universal" type. There are other types, that
lock into the inside of the spindle, and provide greater depth for
the workpiece. Aloris make a nice, spendy one of this design. Very
useful gadget! (6514) |
| You hit the
nail right on the head. I called Aloris and they faxed over a page
out of the catalog with their spindle stops. The kit for the 10K is
$156.00 which is not as bad as I thought it would be. I've thought
about a bunch of designs to try on the 6K's but it all comes down to
a serious restriction in real estate at the back of the collet.
There is not a lot of room for a locking mechanism AND a position
shaft. The Aloris might be a much better way to go all things
considered. I'll give myself another day to conjure up something
then I'll bite the bullet and call Aloris back.
Bill (6519) |
| Bill You are
going to spend $150 on something you can whip up on your lathe in an
hour? Is not that why we have lathes so we can make these simple
little items ourselves. JWE (6526) |
| James, I
think the Aloris unit would take quite a bit more than an hour to
replicate (IMHO). Also using the same ideology, because I have a
vertical mill I should make my own quick change tool post as well? (
I did actually, but I like the Aloris better). Right now we are
cranking out custom test fixtures for the DoD and they, quite
frankly, pay really well. I felt my time could be better spent
making parts for them and in turn spending some cash with the good
folks at Aloris and trying to get this god forsaken economy pitched
in a more positive direction (not that this simple purchase will
have any sort of impact, 100,000 like transactions could however). I
did end up making a simple collet stop to make the 200 firing pins I
needed to make (because I couldn't wait for delivery of the Aloris
unit) but I would need to make a custom rod for each job using my
current design, and that takes time. The Aloris solution gives me
one tool for almost any similar task and like anything from Aloris
that I have used over the years, it will pay for itself over and
over and over. However, if you have a design that is as robust as
the Aloris that could be made by a human in an hour or less I'm all
ears (eyes in this case). Bill (6544) |
| 5C and 3C
collets |
| Can 5C collets be made to fit the 9"' SB or do I need to stay with 3C?
Clint (6652) |
| The only
practical way to utilize 5C collets on the little SBL 9", is to
install a collet chuck as made by Bison. It is available in standard
and "Set-Tru" versions, with the 1.5 - 8 thread. Clint D (6653) |
| It also
depends on your reason or need for collets. What size stock do you
need to fit thru the spindle? What is the reason for needing collets
for larger stock sizes than can be handled by 3C? I use 3C and ER32
collets on my SB9. 3Cs allow up to 1/2" diameter "thru the spindle"
stock handling. At the moment, without having made a collect chuck
for the ERs, I can handle up to 3/4" but not thru the spindle. Once
a collect chuck is made, I can use the ERs to get the maximum "thru
the spindle" stock handling the SB9 can do: 3/4". I make short run,
repetitive parts from stock up to 3/4", so I do have a use for 3/4"
thru the spindle stock feeding. An ER collect chuck may not provide
faster stock handling than a 3- or 6- jaw chuck, however, so it may
not make sense to make that ER collet chuck for that purpose. A good
standard or "Set-Tru" type chuck might be better. Even with a 5C
collect chuck, you won't get anything bigger than 3/4" thru the SB9
spindle, so you really have to ask yourself what your real need is.
Collets are good for rapid, precision holding and for feeding stock
thru the spindle, most often a production function. If you don't
need the precision or the production, you may not benefit much from
collets. Most hobbyists won't. Some obsessionists just have to have
it all. What is your need? Rick (6654) |
| Got that,
then all I need to run the 3C is the wheel, draw bar and closure,
correct? Clint (6655) |
| You will need
the hand-wheel drawbar, collet closer, and so-called "thread
protector nut". The nut is used to cam the closer out of the spindle
for easy removal. Clint D (6656) |
| Do you have
an idea where I might be able to locate the 3C setup? Also, where
would be the best place for me to check out for the 5C chuck, etc. I
have a full set of 5C collets. Clint (6657) |
| Rick I really
do not need the 5C but I do have a full set of the 5C collets, so
all I need is the chuck, I either need to find one or make one?
Clint (6658) |
| New
England Brass is a good place to buy. (6659) |
| New England
Brass and Tool.
http://www.brassandtool.com/Chucks-Collet.html They
also advertise in Home Shop Machinist and Machinists Workshop. Good
people to deal with. Rick (6663) |
| Clint, I made
a collet adapter for 5-C collets, threaded 1 1'2" x 8, for my 9"
South Bend lathe from the book, "The Shop Wisdom of Philip Duclos,"
p. 44 or the same article is reprinted in the magazine, "Projects in
Metal," Feb. 88 issue p. 12. It is quite easy to make and includes a
draw bar. Due to the simple design you can not hold long work pieces
because you can not protrude through the spindle. The advantage is
that you have 1 1/8" capacity vs. 1/2" capacity with the standard 9"
South Bend 3-C collet arrangement. I now have both and it is great
to have 5-C capability on the lathe along with the 5-C holding
devices on my milling machine. Neil (6667) |
| Neil, where can I
locate the magazine or do you have a copy? Sounds like something I
could use. Clint (6669) |
| John MT
collets as with B S taper and R8 because they are intended for
holding cutters are not self releasing and will require a stiff rap
on the draw bar to release them. If drawn up to tight they can
require an extremely stiff rap to release especially MT
collets. (6672) |
| Clint, Feb 88
Projects in Metal was the first issue. I have a copy of it that I
would have to dig up. If no one else comes forward I will find it
and copy the article. It will come to you by snail mail. Fred (6673) |
| 5C won't work but
3C's are pretty easy.
The hardest part is cutting the internal thread for the drawtube,
it's a funky size that you can't get a tap for. Dave (6674) |
| Clint, Check
Home Shop Machinists magazine, publisher's of both the book and the
magazine. They probably have both
available. Also you might try your local library. Neil (6675) |
| Your right Fred the Feb. 88 issue of Projects in Metal was the first
issue. I highly recommend Frank Duclos' book, "The Shop Wisdom of
Philip Duclos," though, both for some great techniques and a number
of projects (If one wants to spend the money). The 5-C collet
adapter was one of many fine shop projects. I'll send copies too if
necessary. Neil (6676) |
| SB Collet help
needed |
| I have what appears
to be part of a drawbar collet setup for my 9". Can someone show me
via photo or direct me to a place so that I can see all of the parts
needed to make this work? I have everything on the one side but
there seems to be nothing on the spindle nose side of the headstock
to hold the collets. Do these collets (3C) use the #3 Morse taper to
close or am I missing some parts here? I have no collets either.
(6792) |
| Here is a nice
picture that should help you out. Scott
http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend/page9.html (6795) |
| MT3 collets
|
| I have an SBL 9"
Model A. I got it with the 3C nose piece, the drawbar and one 1/4"
3C collet. I have since acquired several other 3C collets in
different sizes. I guess the max opening is 1/2". I recently found
a website. At this site is found, among others, specs on MT3 collets with a max
opening of 3/4". Given that my 9" has a MT3 spindle is there a
reason why MT3 collets will not work on a 9" SBL if I were to make
my own drawbar? Jim (7978) |
| 3C collets have an
external thread and use a hollow drawbar so you can feed stock the
length of the spindle for cutting parts off of long barstock. The
3MT collets have an internal thread so the amount of stock or
workpiece inside the collet is limited. Beyond that they should
work, but myself I'd rather take a chance on scoring a 3C adapter if
something goes awry, than risk scoring the spindle bore itself. On a
related note, Tony Griffiths makes reference to finding some 9's
fitted with a modified Heavy 10 headstock with the big spindle
bore...anyone here ever tried this? How much work is it? And has
anyone tried the 5C collet chuck that hangs off the spindle nose
with a scroll inside it? Lurch (7980) |
| The info about the
3C there is wrong. The 3C does not have a 5/8-26 thread. anyone
trying to make a drawtube to that spec will be disappointed when it
doesn't work. 3C's use a .640-26 thread or 41/64. Granted it's close
to 5/8 but not close enough to work. Dave (7982) |
| Cherry wood
collet rack |
| I took a piece of
nice cherry wood about 2 1/2" wide and 3" thick and drilled holes at
a slight angle for the 3c collets I use the most. I soaked the whole
thing in linseed oil and keep some lathe oil in the bottom of each
hole so the bottom threaded part is always sitting in a bit of oil.
I have a regular SB holder but the home made one is a way better and
only about 1 hour to make. Any hardwood would do. I may make another
but on a curve to hold the complete set.
(9330) |
| Morse taper
collets from Grizzly |
| Anyone tried
them? Mike (10670) |
| Haven't tried
those exact ones, but do have and use a set of ER32 collets, which
are very similar. They Grizzly's don't specify tolerances, so you
don't really know what you'd be getting. The primary drawback to
that (type of) set is the drawbar. You will not be able to get stock
thru the spindle, as it will be occupied by the drawbar. It may not
be as good as a scroll chuck in that regard. You could possibly do
as good or better with a 3 or 6 jaw scroll chuck with adjustable
backplate for TIR. By making your own adjustable backplate, you can
get into it for whatever it costs for the scroll chuck, which could
be much less or similar to the cost of that collet set (and could
even do it with one you already have). Once dialed in for a
particular diameter, the chuck would probably be about as good as
the collets for repeat holding and not any slower than the collets
for part changes. What is your application? If you are doing milling
on the lathe, a collet set like that would be great. Rick (10684) |
| Collet Chucks
|
| I would like
to have collets on my SB-9. The price, on EBAY of a closer, nut and
adapter seems to be around $150 to $250. Then you are limited to 3C
collets, which limit the size and the collets cost quite a bit.
There have been several "complete" sets, closer, nut, adapter,
wrench and collets in wooden boxes. These went for about $400. I
have mentally decided to go with a collet chuck and use 5C collets.
They are less expensive, more available and allow up to 1 1/8".
However the entrance fee is high. The standard BISON is about $275
plus a backing plate which lists at $120. There are some TRU-Sets
which show up for $400 to 450 with a backing plate. There are also a
lot of Hardinge-Sjogrens showing up, some have D1-4 or D1-6 adapters
which could be removed and replaced with a threaded backing plate,
some are plane back. One went recently for $195. The questions I
have are: Is my thinking on the 5C/collet chuck correct? What are
the merits of a used, somewhat less expensive, Hardinge which I may
never get trued up vs the New BISON? Jim B. (10881) |
| You might
check out Morse taper collets. This was mentioned recently. The sets
are available from Grizzly and another (probably better) place and
are much cheaper, have a bigger capacity and seem to be a better
investment. You will have to make a drawer bar but that is very
straight forward. Max (10887) |
| Jim: If you
are willing to hold off a bit, Andy Lofquist of Metal Lathe
Accessories is working on a kit for a very nice 5C collet chuck for
the South Bend 9". Casting patterns are nearly done. Kim (10896) |
| Kim: I wish I
would have known that earlier! I've been working on my own version
of a 5c collet chuck for the last 2 or 3 weeks (only can get a
couple of free hours a week) and I fear the run-out will be
unacceptable. On the other hand, it's my first "real" project, and
I've been learning more with each chip that's turned. Maybe I'll
turn it into a candle stick holder when I'm done. Tom (10899) |
| Collet sizes
|
| Can anyone tell me
if the 3 AT collets are a little smaller in dia. than the 3 C
collets Also, is anyone aware of a collet that is a little smaller
in dia. than the 3 C collets that work in the 9" SB lathe? The
reason I ask, I supposedly purchased a 3C collet sleeve, but my 3C
collets are just a little bigger than the inside dia. of the sleeve.
But it fits my spindle fine, just wanting to know what it may be
used for. Clint.
(11308) |
| Clint,
There are a couple of collet charts on the web.
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Reference/Tapers.php
MT - Jacobs - Jarno - Brown Sharp
http://www.loganact.com/tips/collet.htm
3M - 3AT - 3C - 3J- 4C - 5C - R8
http://www.loganact.com/tips/r8.htm dimm on R9 I didn't find any data on DA collets,
but would like to
have that. The 3AT small end OD is 0.687 the 3C small end OD is 0.65
so the 3C are the smaller ones. Dave (11317) |
| That is a strange one. There is one other
collet that is in that size class, its called a 3PN collet and has
the .650 body diam. The keyway of those makes them not fit the 3C
closer, or the 3AT closer. (angle also different). How much smaller is
the bore of that sleeve. RC
(11321) |
| If 3C is the smaller? I wonder what this collet sleeve could be far?
The guy i bought it off of on ebay claims his 3C fit it, but mine
are to big, and they are marked 3C on the top! Clint 11323) |
| Dave/RC I
measure the inside dia. of this sleeve and it is 0.590 my 3C collets
measure 0.630 Clint (11326) |
| Dave/RC Thank
that is strange, I also have another sleeve that measures 0.75 and
the sleeve overall length is 2.50" and it looks maybe to fit a MT4
Taper. Clint (11327) |
| 0.75 and
milling machines. I have been looking at the collet charts in the
shopswarf website. also there is the Hardinge website. There must be
a zillion different kinds of collets. RC (11331) |
| 0.75 and dia. (11332) |
| ODD that both
sizes are so far off. maybe it is some metric part ? 0.590 is 15mm.
Dave (11341) |
| Unfortunately,
the ShopSwarf page does not load properly on my browser. The second
column carries over, making it longer and it does not line up
properly. Dave (11342) |
| I has made
the window smaller and that is why the columns did not line up
properly. Dave (11343) |
| Paul That is
what I have found out, that it is for 2 B collets, the problem is I
just mailed it back to the seller for a refund, but email me off
list, I will put you in contact with him, he should have it back by
Saturday or Tuesday, I mail it priority. I paid 40.00 for it, so
that would be the price he will want, or close to that. I am
assuming. By the way, anyone else
need a collet sleeve, I have one that looks to fit a #4 taper with
the inside dia, aprox. 0.75 Clint (11347) |
| 6k collet |
| I have a Hardinge
3/32 6k collet (for a 10k lathe) that I would like to trade for one
of the following sizes, if possible: 5/32; 11/32; 15/32
Alternatively, if anyone has any of the above 3 sizes and wants to
sell, please let me know. Frank (11809) |
| Frank. I have N.O.S. south bend lathe 6K brass collets in those 3
sizes in their original containers at 15.00 each. Randy
(11835) |
| Randy: I
don't know what N.O.S means? I've also never used brass collets - do
they hold up OK? I mostly work with brass and aluminum, but
occasionally harder stuff. Frank (11839) |
| Frank, NOS
is New Old Stock. Usually found lost in a warehouse or on the
shelves of a dealer. Stan (11844) |
| R8 Collets
#3MT Adapter |
| How would a
R8 collet with a #3MT adapter work for holding end mills for milling
with my 9" SB. Years ago I turned a couple of #3 MT end mill holders
that worked fine but only holds the end mill size I made them for
(with a set screw). Has anyone out there used a R8 collet with an #3
MT adapter? Are the adapter drilled so you can use a draw bar? Gary
(12027) |
| Maybe I'm misreading the question, but an R8 collet won't fit into
an MT3 socket, the OD of the collet is larger than the taper bore.
I've seen R8 to MT3 adapters for use in mills and such, but haven't
seen MT3 to R8. I think you would end up with around 4 inches of
adapter body out past the spindle. MT3 end mill holders are readily
available, and import ones are pretty low cost. Stan (12029) |
| Stan,
you read me right and stopped me from doing something stupid. The
only #3 MT end mill holders I have seen are only available in 3/8"
1/2" and those are the two sizes that I made years ago. Do you know
where I could buy other sizes?
(12032) |
| When
I got my Phase II tool post from ENCO about a month ago There was an
ENCO Outlet flyer included. There is a 5 pc set of 3MT endmill
holders 3/16, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 for $69.99 Model # VQ307-2861.
They are not in the regular catalog. They have a tanged end not a
draw bar end. Jim B. (12039) |
| Collet adapter
removal |
| I
have a 10" toolroom lathe with a D1-4 camlock spindle. When the
collet adapter is installed, the front flange of it is about 1/8"
from the short taper on the nose of the spindle. The only way I can
figure to remove the adapter is to poke a long brass bar through
from tha left end and whack the end of the collet adapter. I don't
like hitting this end, as there is a precision diameter inside the
end of the adapter. What is the gentle way of removing the collet
adapter from the spindle? I got no answer from the SB help line!
With my "old" lathe, having a threaded spindle, it was easy to
unscrew the sleeve off the spindle, thereby jacking the adapter out
of the taper. Incidentally, I have a new faceplate with a D1-3
camlock back, which I'd like to sell. Anybody need it? Harold
(12607) |
| Ever think of
using a piece of Aluminum, it would be softer and less likely to
damage any finished surfaces. Mike (12619) |
| Can I use a
copper rod, its softer than brass and still heavy enough to nock the
adapter out. Those adapters are hardened and ground parts. As long as
you're using something soft to nock it loose, you wont cause any
damage to anything but the soft bar. I do it that way to save wear on
the threads. If you don't have much soft material around, make up a
soft end to go on a steel bar. RC (12621) |
| Are all
collets created equal? |
| Anyone out there have a preference for a collet manufacturer? I am in
need of a set and I am not a fan of the ones from China. Philip (12719) |
| Both
Royal Products and Hardinge make top quality collets. Royal has 5-C,
Hardinge has almost anything you can imagine, and then some. (small
plug) We carry Royal Collets and Closers (and their other products). Scott Logan (12720) |
| For
price and availability the Import ones do a good job and there are
two grades of them out there. If you want better quality or
selection or need collets other than 5C and R8 the you will need to
go to Hardinge. Their standard price for off the shelf supplies of
collets seems to be $29.95 for everything I have ordered yet
although if you want a special size in a rare collet fast it can
cost a lot more. JWE (12721) |
| As far as
collets, Hardinge are probably the better quality, but a bit higher
priced. Royal are supposed to be OK. There is Lyndex, made in
England I think. I think they are in between Hardinge and Royal on
price and quality. Some of the Mail order places sell 'Quality
Import' collets. If you want collets at a good price and good
quality you might check where these are made. I trust stuff made in
Poland and other former East Block countries, especially Czech.
I would look for the Bison Brand. I am not sure if they make 5C
collets though. Still check that they are made in Poland or the
Czech
Republic. I think I saw some stuff (maybe Lathe Chucks) with the
Bison name, but made in China. Some China stuff is OK, others junk.
Quality is very inconsistent. I try and buy elsewhere if I can.
Tom (12724) |
| What
size collets? As a general rule, Royal and Hardinge are the first two
choices if the cost is acceptable to you. For ER series ETM is good,
for DA series Erickson is about it. In 5C there are some more options,
if Royal is too steep, Enco does have Japanese made collets, at about
halfway between Royal and "import." The older Japanese 5C collets were
very nice, don't know if they still use the same vendor. Folks have
reported size accuracy and slippage problems with Lyndex. Most of the
import (PRC) collets I've bought have been fine. The finish of the
keyway and threads can be a bit spotty, a quick pass with the wire
wheel cleans off the threads, and a quick deburr of the keyway only
takes a few seconds. TIR in just about off the the no-name imports has
been 2 tenths at the collet, and less than half a thou an inch or so
out. Stan (12727) |
| Stan, the collets made by Royal are OK
but, if you want a collet that you can trust to be accurate on its
threads, keyway and holding ability you cannot beat Hardinge. They are
still in business and have a toll free number. Mike (12753) |
| SB Collets |
| Is there any
difference between SB 3 collets that are marked SOUTH BEND on the
side rather than on the top face?? They are exactly the same
dimensionally. Also, is there any instruction around regarding the
use of collets on the SB 9A with both the lever and draw type
closers? (12881) |
| This is not an answer to the question at hand but rather an
expansion. How do you type collets? (OK so I asked for that 1, "You
type collets, COLLETS"). I want to know how you tell the different
sizes and what they fit. I understand that my 9" SB uses a 3c, but
what does the 3c mean? Does it tell a particular size, threading
etc" I have a couple of 3h collets that are monstrous compared to
the 3c. I have been told that 3a is the same, just shorter threads?
If someone could explain or point me in the right direction to a web
site or book that would explain the difference I would greatly
appreciate it. BK (12885) |
| 3C
collets require an adapter that goes into the MT3 headstock taper.
The adapter setup, when complete, comes with a large "nut" that goes
over the spindle thread. The adapter goes into the spindle after the
nut/nose protector is threaded onto the spindle. The adapter has a
raised ring that is larger than the hole in the face of the nut.
When you unscrew the spindle nose protector, it ejects the adapter.
Add in a drawbar which goes through the spindle, one end with a
handle to tighten, the other internally threaded to pull the collet
up tight. 3C collets are somewhat limited in sizes supported, if you
need more variety in sizes and shapes (hex particularly), a 5C
collet chuck may be a better alternative. Hex and Square 3C collets
do exist I understand, but I sure haven't come across them. 3AT
collets have a larger OD and are shorter, I think they were a
standard for Atlas lathes. Maybe others too. You can also make a
drawbar and use MT3 collets. Not as handy as 5C, and you don't have
the ability to pass work thought the spindle bore, but a fairly low
cost alternative if suitable to your needs. Little Machine Shop
sells a fairly nice set of MT3 collets for around $80. Scott Logan
has a pretty good page of collet specifications on his site at:
http://www.loganact.com/tips/collet.htm There are special collets
such as ER and DA series that are not common in the SB world, but
with the correct adapters (home made or commercial) may fit a
requirement better. These collets have more clamping range. A 5C
collet should not be closed more than a few thou on stock, while an
ER or DA series can compress up to 1/32. It is not unusual or
unreasonable to end up with multiple collet styles in a shop, but
try not to end up with three of one, five of another. When you have
to change setups to change collet sizes work becomes a real pain.
With a 5C collet chuck or home made adapter, you'll have collets
that also work in spin indexers and H/V collet chucks (handy with
mills or drill presses), and maybe R8 collets if you have a smaller
mill or mill/drill. Add other styles based on requirements. As I
often handle oddball sizes, making adapters to handle DA collets was
worth it. If you always work with standard sizes, better to put the
money into a 5C collet chuck and full set of collets. A 5C collet
chuck is a pricey item ($250 to $300 when you include the backing
plate), but the lower cost and wider range of easily available
collets offsets this to great extent. Finding a perfect condition 3C
adapter set can be tough, the last really clean setup I saw offered
sold for around $135. You could always make the parts, but be ready
to chase tenths on the adapter, it has to be your absolute best
work. Stan(12889) |
| Collet sizes
|
| I acquired a
set of collets with my 10K, which has a closer mounted, and was
wondering about their type/style in case I came across a good buy on
additional sizes. They are in individual plastic cases marked South
Bend on the bottom and are stamped South Bend 6K on the face, along
with the size. According to the references that have been posted
here, they measure as a 4C. Does the 6K stamped on the face mean
anything? And is it likely that they are 4C, or is there another
style with similar measurements?
(13099) |
| They
are 6K collets. I think 4C's are a bit bigger. If not, or they are
the same dimensions, 6K collets have a slot/groove on the large
taper. I think 4C's are on the main diameter body. 6K collets do
show up every so often on E-Bay. The 6Ks, from my sources, was SB's
way of increasing the collet capacity in the smaller SB lathes. 6K
capacity is 5/8ths while 3C's are 1/2. They do/did make inch round,
metric round, inch hex and inch square in 6K. Hardinge might make
them on special order, but I hear they cost a bit. Some of the Used
Machinery dealers might have some. I think they cost around $15-18
per collet. Tom(13101) |
| They do indeed have a slot on the large taper. I printed info from
two different web sites about collet identification, and found no
mention of 6K.
(13158) |
| You might
find this website useful too-
http://www.hardingetooling.com
It
has collet picture and dimensions and prices for most collets. dp
(13754) |
| Is this a 3AT
Collet? |
| Can someone tell me
what kind of collet this is? (picture not working). I have just this one and a nice Royal lever closer setup for a 1-
1/2x8 spindle (this collet was in the unit). Wally
(13744) |
| I
have a set of those and the collet chuck for them. Some of mine are
marked Allison and I think the chuck is also. Went through trying to
ID them no one ever figured it out (I don t think). Dennis Pantazis
had some he sold me to complete my set. Lew (13746) |
| It
sure isn't a 3AT if that is what you want to know. As to what it is,
darned if I know. It doesn't match up anything currently shown as
available from Royal or Hardinge. Over the years there have been so
darn many collet variations it can be almost impossible to ID some
oddball short lived ones. From the photo I can't tell if it takes a
drawbar or what. The double angle head end makes me think it's a
compression closing style, similar in operation to ER or DA style.
You might make a good dimensioned drawing and mail it to Dave Sobel,
Dave Ficken, and the folks at Plaza Machinery. They are all folks
who know more about collets than most folks ever will. You might
also post the picture to the metalworking dropbox and post a message
on RCM asking for help identifying it. It sure doesn't appear to be
in MSC, Travers, or the Enco catalogs. Stan (13748) |
| I have an
Allison collet chuck and collets. they LOOK like the one of the pic
you showed, but w/o diam's or lenghts it's hard to say. my take on
it is that it is an allison. you can check the Hardinge catalogue
for a good collet reference. I thought they have Allison's in there.
http://www.hardingeworkholding.com/PDF/2348.PDF
I will not be able
to measure my collets until the weekend. sorry but work drives my
life right now. In the meantime, lew might it be possible that you
could email wally rough dimensions of our collets? Wally, also put a
pic of the collet closer, that might help id the collet if its the
right closer. To my knowledge, all the allison stuff was front
loading front closing, i.e. no drawbar. I have seen these collets and
chucks associated to logan lathes, but to my knowledge scott isn't
familiar with them. Dennis (13751) |
| Dennis The
measurements I came up with today are: 1.9755 long overall .935 back
diameter 1.12 taper length 1.335 diameter of largest part of taper;
where the 2 tapers meet. These were hurriedly made with an old
vernier caliper but should be pretty accurate. If descriptions don't
make sense please ask for clarification! Sorry it took so long but
hope this helps. Lew (13784) |
| I contacted an engineer at Royal Products (we are a distributor) and
he does not recognize this collet or closer as made by them. The
closer COULD be theirs, but probably modified to accept these
collets. Not much help, I know, but the best I can come up with.
Scott Logan (13793) |
| 9" collet
question |
| I have a 9"
Southbend from 1938. I have no collets for it can I use a MT#3
collet? or is it a 3c. I have many 5C collets but no way to chuck
them. (15048) |
| The spindle
taper should be MT3 and you need an insert to use 3C collets, plus a
nose protector and drawbar. You can get a 5C collet chuck for it.
Bison makes what looks to be a nice one. Cost about as much as a 3C
collet closer and collets, maybe less, if you went for a full set of
3Cs and then you'd only have up to 1/2" capacity. Rick (15050) |
| The 9"
workshop uses 3C collets, 5C is way to big for the spindle unless
you get a special 5C chuck with a MT3 adapter to fit the spindle,
then you have no thru hole clearance. Clint (15051) |
| Clint The 5C
chucks I've looked at mount on a backplate. The collets are closed
by a large "nut" that turns similar to the scroll in a 3-jaw chuck.
You get to use the full 3/4" thru hole. I wish I had one :-(
John (15056) |
| 6K Collets
purchase |
| Anyone know where I
can get new 6K collets at a reasonable price? They are available
from LaBlond at $135.00 each, or Hardinge will make them for you at
$250.00 each. If I can't find them, I will make some myself.
(15816) |
| Somebody was
looking for 6K collets. Grand Tool has them for about $25 each.
Probably cheaper by the set but you gotta call 'em and ask. They
also have 3C and some other oddballs. Probably imports, but the
price is attractive. I ordered a Browne Sharpe #9 taper shell mill
arbor from them for my old Sheldon mill and the arbor ran true. The
cutter itself I was trying to use was eBay junk, and the back was a
couple degrees out of flat to the front...but that's not the arbor's
fault. No connection with Grand Tool except when I'm looking for weirdball tooling I'm glad they exist.
www.grandtool.com Lurch
(15821) |
| Collets |
| I have a 9"
with the std. SB collet set-up. Are 3C and 1A collets the only ones
that can be used with this set-up? Jim
(16577) |
| You can get
#3 morse taper collets up to 3/4". You have a #3 taper in the
spindle I believe. JP (16579) |
| You can also
use 3AT. I have set up for 3AT and 3C. You can use the same nose
protector as for 3C. The 3AT draw bar is longer. You could use a 3AT
draw bar and a spacer for 3C but not vice-a-versa. Jim B. (16581) |
| PS you need a
different spindle to collet adapter for 3AT. I saw one, I think on
the sister web site for $20. The OD of the 3AT is bigger than the
3C. Jim B. (16582) |
| What I said
here is WRONG. The 3AT is the shorter of the two collets. It is
bigger in diameter but shorter. The Threads are the same. You can
use a 3C draw bar on a 3AT, with a home made Spacer but not a 3AT
draw bar on a 3C. Jim B. (16583) |
| There is also
a variant to 3C collets. I have some Hardinge collets 3CX. those
collets are between 1/2 in ant 5/8 in diameter (I got 9/16 and 5/8).
They are step collets. (stock cannot go through the spindle). They
are the same length as the 3C collet, use the same draw bar. The 3C
collet nose piece needs to be modified to accept them as the collet
diameter is larger on a significant section. I ground the inside of
my nose piece to 0.708 in inside diameter until the whole 3CX collet
fit in the nose piece. The precision ground sleeve with the key way
(0.650 in diameter) was not touched. The nose piece can still be used
with 3C collets. Guy (16586) |
| My 1/2" 3C is worn out and I have been unable
to find a replacement. I thought maybe I needed to widen the search
with substitutes. Jim
(16612) |
| All sizes are
available from Hardinge by 64ths for $29.95 each. JWE (16615) |
| I would
highly recommend that you don't modify your collet adapter to fit
Hardinge or any other collet that doesn't fit. These collet adapters
are hardened and are concentric, ID to OD within about
0.0001-0.0002". 3C collets are widely available, and at a price much
less than Hardinge. I'll have to go through my box of spares and see
if I have a spare 1/2". Harold (16617) |
| I was away
from my computer until just a few minutes ago, so I missed the E-bay
collet. I do appreciate the heads-up about it. Jim (16618) |
| How do I get
in touch with Hardinge? Jim (16619) |
| Try this
link---- http://www.hardinge.com/
Ron (16621) |
| Hardinge is a brand of tooling including collets. depending on who
you ask it's either the best or darned near close. Id's like 3C,
3AT, 6K, 5C, etc are all types of collets. many manufacturers make
them. Which one you can use in your lathe depends on many factors.
Many places have them new, some of the used and parts dealers we
have discussed probably have one used. dennis (16626) |
| I would
suggest that all of you seriously consider "making" your own C3
collets. The cost/quality of these collets 2nd hand on Ebay is
????? so please see the article by Rudy Kouhouopt in
his book "Shop Wisdom" Volume #3.(page 25). This book and other good
articles are available through; Village Press Inc. Travers City,
Michigan (16779) |
| MT 3 collets
disadvantages? |
| Are there any
disadvantages in using a plain MT 3 collet over the 3C, 3AT? (16899) |
| The 3C and 3AT are
bored through. The Draw Bar also has a through hole. This allows
long stock to go through the spindle and exit the rear . Thus you
could turn a shoulder on a 1/2" shaft say 36" long. The MT3 collets
are solid and have a smallish threaded rod to draw them in. Only a
short length can penetrate the collet. Jim B. (16903) |
| Collet stops
|
| I have recently bought a full set of
collets of mixed ancestry and the proper closer as well from a
member. I just noticed on ebay an item called a collet stop and
wrench. I think I understand it's purpose. Stops the stock from
sliding in the collet throat? Is this something that I should maybe
bid on? I also noticed it fits Hardinge collets. My Hardinge is smooth
inside but my imports are threaded .Would a collet stop work for
both? I turned some 5/8" steel last night with my collet set and it
worked very well. Made some magnetic holders for all those pesky
chuck keys that seem to get everywhere but where I told them to
stay:-).They turned out pretty good. This is my first real project on
my south bend. Tom (16952) |
| A
collet stop is useful for making multiples of something to the same
size. Lets say you want to make 4 spacers 2.000 +/- 0.005. You cut
four pieces of stock a tad over length, face one end on each. Make
one to length, with the lathe carriage lock set. Mike, repeat using
the compound to fine tune length. Once the length is dead on, you
can then mount the remaining 3 pieces and face to length with a good
level of repeatability. It adds a bit of time to making the first
piece, but then makes getting the remaining ones automatic. If work
slips in a collet, you are possibly: Taking way too deep a cut.
Using the wrong tool geometry for the material. Using stock that is
too small for the collet (Most collets are only to compress several
thou, ER and DA types excepted). Not tightening the collet enough.
Have too much oil on the material, Usually doesn't matter, but if
you are cutting with a fair amount of force to hog off waste this
can come into play. If you were making a bunch of spacers that
needed a groove in the same spot you would set up with a cut off
type tool, sanity check one, then do them all. Saves having to
measure and setup for the same operation time after time. Rather
like a mill stop used in conjunction with a vise if you're familiar
that that sort of fixturing. Stan (16954) |
| I didn't know that was the main use for a stop. I have learned
my machining lesson for the day I think I may just try to get one
some time but I don't see me doing multiple stuff too soon. BTW I
didn't have any slippage of my stock but could see it happening if
as you say the stock was undersized. I'm really just getting
started, haven't done a thread yet even. I will try one soon just for
the experience. Tom (16956) |
| Collet
Question |
| I recently
purchased a group of 6K collets on E-Bay. There were 14 collets in
the group. Of the 14 I only needed 3 or 4. However even if I never
use the others at ~$15 for RSB or Hardring collets I was not doing
too bad. There were three collets made by Modern. These are labeled
"soft" They are steel not brass. The sizes are 1/8, 1/2, and 9/16.
Question 1) What is a soft steel collet used for? Question 2) Can I
open these up to the next larger 1/32 or 1/64 th diameter. Question
3) How? Bore? Drill? Ream? I assume I would need to insert fillers
in the slots to prevent the collet from compressing. Jim B. (17200) |
| Soft collets are
machinable to any configuration you want. Do they have 'pin'
locations in the slots? If so then just pin them there and machine
away. I would bore them to maintain concentricity. JP (17203) |
| 4c Collet
dimensions? |
| I need to get some
4c and 3c collet specs. Base diameter, length and diameter at head.
Any help would be great. (17646) |
|
http://loganact.com/tips/collet.htm
- Scott Logan (17647) |
| Email me offgroup and I will scan and send page from SouthBend Accessory
Guide with complete sizes and drawings for 3,6K,2,4 and 5. Manual
says interchangeable with 2A,3C,4C and 5C. Ron (17648) |
| SB #4 COLLETTHD DIA .942 THD LNGTH 13/16 TPI 20 BODY DIA. .9495 COLLET
LENGTH 3 " HEAD DIA. 1.150 ANGLE OF HEAD 10 DEG T (17651) |
| Collets for a
9" |
| I have been trying
to determine if I can use 1A collets on the9" south bend lathe. I
read that the proper collets are 3C, but have found info that 1a are
the same? or very similar, and seem to remember also reading that
1a fit the 9". All of this is very unclear, and since I only have a
set of collets, and not a collet nose for the lathe, I cannot simply
try them. So before I purchase a collet nose, I would like to find
out if these 1a collets really will work with the 9". Darren
(18318) |
| While they are similar, there is a slight difference in the overall
length, and may be a difference in the closing angle. The length is
only 1/8" difference, but I'm going to bet the angle is different.
3-C and 3-AT collets are available, often at reasonable prices, and
certainly from Hardinge (for slightly higher prices). I rather doubt
if 1-A collets are available. If you already have a bunch, that
alone might be reason enough to go that route. While we are talking
about collets, it should also be remembered that 3-C and 3-AT are
NOT interchangeable. 3-AT collets have a larger body, and 3-C are
longer. In addition, the closing angle *IS* different. One is 10
degree, the other is (I think) 14 degree. Scott S. Logan( 18320) |
| I just bought
another 9" today. This one had 1A collets with it- some made by south
bend. Also had 3SB and 3A. They all seem to fit fine to me. nose, is
doubt alone that the http://www.lathe.com
(18474) |
| Collet
suggestions needed |
| The South Bend 9
that I have purchased come with some accessories but does not come
with any collets, or any other collet accessories. I have to start
from scratch. In my mind it is not critical that I stay with orginal
equipment. My experience with collets is very limited, but I do have
a specific use for collets with dimensions from about .150 up to
.375. I can't see going much above or below those numbers, but you
never know. Any suggestions about what or where to begin? Should I
go to an ER type collet set up, a collet chuck or stay the
traditional collet route and go with the 3c's.
Mark
(18582) |
| A lot depends
on how you will be using the collets. If you will be changing parts
in the collet frequently you will defiantly want the 3C with lever
operation. If you will just be working on the parts in the collet
and changing tools for different operations without removing the
part from the collet then almost anything will work. ER and DA
collets have a wider clamping range than 3C collets do so you will
need fewer of them. ER and DA collet chucks can be made to thread on
a chuck would giving you some other options. 5C chucks are also
available now at a fairly reasonable price so consider that option
also. (18583) |
This brings up an
interesting question - the collet chucks I've seen advertised have
significant radial run-out. In fact, the run-out on my headstock
Jacobs chuck is less. So why bother with a collet chuck? What are
the advantages of collet chucks? Frank
(18585) |
| Old collets
|
| A
question about old collets, I hope someone has an answer. My 9 inch
SBL has a collet chuck that threads onto the spindle. I have only
one example of the collet itself (1.125 dia. stock size) It has a
1.375 x 20 thread is 3.675 long. This thread doesn't match any
current collets I am aware of. Does anyone know of such a lathe
collet and if any are obtainable? There are no manufacturer's marks
anywhere on the collet or chuck. I believe the vintage would be from
the 40's or 50's. John (19743) |
| Best chart I know
of and nothing really matches what you describe.
http://shopswarf.orcon.net.nz/collet.html Jeff (19746) |
| Yes, I f I
didn't have the collet in my hand I wouldn't believe that there is
another obsolete collet style. Amazing. I sent my info to the owner
of that list so he can add another collet to his list if he wants
to. John (19747) |
| I have a
collet chuck for a Southbend that takes # 21collets, BS I believe.
The end cap pushes the collet in and closes it.(19748) |
| Collets for 9"
Junior New from late 1920's |
| I just got an old South Bend benchtop lathe, which
I think is a "Junior New" model. I didn't get an collets. I was
wondering if the collets and drawbar from the "A" would fit this?
There doesn't much on these old models on the site that I found so
far. (20141) |
| They should
work the only difference might be the length of the spindle, which
might make the draw bar in-operative. Now that you have a lathe you
can fix that problem real easy. Check out the junior group not real
active but lots of knowledge.
http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/SBL_Junior_Lathes/
Scott.
(20147) |
| Collet
question? |
| I have a 9"
Model A with no collets or any other collet accessories. I am
thinking of buying collets, but need the entire assembly also. My
question is, will 5C collets fit my lathe, or am I forced to stay
with 3C. If that is the case, what is the difference between 3C and
5C collets. Mark
(20390) |
| The 9" will
take 3C or 3AT collets with the proper draw bar, adapter and nose
piece. The parts are different for the 3C and the 3 AT. If you get a
collet chuck then you can use 5C collets. The largest diameter the
3C comes in is 1/2" 5C' go up to 1 3/16 I believe. The hole through
the 9" is 3/4. The use of a collet chuck will reduce the working
length of your lathe. A draw bar, adapter, nose piece and a
reasonable set of collets will run you around $300 to $350 on e-bay.
A collet chuck new is around $275 + a backing plate, collets are
extra. The collet chuck, because it is a chuck and is mounted on to
the spindle is not as good in concentricity as the collet that goes
into the spindle. There are Tru-Set versions which are supposed to
overcome this. If you have the money and if the reduced length from
the chuck to the tailstock is not an issue the collet chuck may be a
more versatile way to go. If you want to ease into it, find a drew
bar, adapter and nose piece, about $125, perhaps less, on e-BAY, and
purchase your collets as you need them. I have been able to average
about $7 for 3C/$3AT collets. The lowest I paid was $1, the highest
was $16. That was a brand new RSB in its original container. I
believe I got the 3C stuff and then started on 3AT. All the while I
kept looking at collet chucks. I wanted the larger size capability.
After spending about $200, I converted my 9" to take 6K collets,
This gives me 5/8 maximum size. I seldom use the 3C/3AT stuff now.
The 5/8 capability has really paid off. If I were starting out now,
with what I now know, I would got the collet chuck route. Jim
B. (20391) |
| 5C and
3C are entirely different. 5C has a max bore of 1/2". 5C can go over
1". The 9" lathe takes 3C in an adapter. 10K takes a similar collet
(6K) directly. The 10 Heavy (10L) takes 5C with an adapter if 2
1/4-8 large bore. RichD (20394) |
| Collet sizes? |
| I ran across some
South Bend collets and I'm not sure what size lathe they fit. There
are two sizes. The big ones are marked 2A and the smaller ones are
marked 3 (not 3C). Does anyone know which South Bend lathes these
collets fit? Vince (20553) |
| My heavy 10 takes
SB 2 collets and I am missing the 3/16 and the 7/16 so I am
interested. This heavy 10 has a spindle with a 1 7/8 8 nose thread
and I think the collets are 11/16 MT3. Also, I have a SB collet
holder for 5C collets if anyone is interested Ray (20564) |
| As Ray
noted, the 2A collets fit the small spindle bore heavy 10. There was
also a small bore 13" which took the same #2 collets. In the early
days SB just used number designations like #2, #3 and #5. I know the
old SB #5 is the same as a modern 5C collet, and I believe your old
collets marked 3 are in fact the same as the later 3C. Frank (20570) |
| Collet adapter
key |
| Has anyone
replaced the key in the heavy 10 collet adapter? (20695) |
| Can't
see where it would be too tough. Make round pin to tap fit in hole
of collet adapter. Turn other end (piece that sticks out inside) to
have a slight bit of clearance in slot in threads of collet or you
can file it with flats on the inside if you are after more of the
original design. Length of pin sticking out inside sleeve would of
course have to be short enough not to rub on bottom of slot in
collet. Ron
(20700) |
| 6k collets |
| I've been looking
for square and hex 6k's for quite awhile and not having any luck. I
lost out on a set of squares by Buck on ebay a few months ago, and
they are the only ones I've seen. Anyone have any leads, or better
yet, any for sale? Gene
(21793) |
| Gene, Hardinge Precision makes lots of different collets - perhaps they
can supply the 6K's. Last time I looked they were about $30 apiece.
George (21835) |
| The square
and hex are $180 each, a bit out of my budget. I'm beginning to
wonder if there are any simple alternatives. Has anyone converted or
added another style of collet holder to a 10k? Gene (22038) |
| What about a front
mount 5-C collet chuck?
5-C Collets can be had for as little as $6 each. In fact, anyone who
orders one of these chucks from us can have all the round 5-C
collets they want for $5.50 each. Scott Logan (22039) |
| Metal lathe
accessories has a 5C collet setup for the SB 9 and 10K. It comes as
a kit where you machine the castings. Hex and square 5C collets are
cheaper.
http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/MLA21.html I
saw the prototype at a show last year. JP(22040) |
| Somebody is
making a huge profit then as new ones can be ordered from Hardinge
for $29.95 for stock items or if you are willing to wait a while
till they run some more stock. Or $69.95 if you absolutely must have
a special next week. Or for the $29.95 you can buy off the shelf
soft head emergency collets and finish them yourself to the desired
size. Just never could understand someone paying more than new list
for a worn out used one. JWE (22041) |
| Has anyone
here ever researched how complicated [or how simple] it would be to
use ER-series collets? I don't have access to my reference books at
the moment but I'm wondering how close [if at all] the nose angle is
on a 6K collet to the major angle on an ER-whateevr... Metal lathe
accessories has a 5C collet setup for the SB 9 and 10K. It comes as
a kit where you machine the castings. Hex and square 5C collets are
cheaper.
http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/MLA21.html I
saw the prototype at a show last year. JP (22046) |
| Southbend
Lathe Collet Attachment |
| I need
help getting a 6-K handlever-type collet attachment back into
operation on a Southbend (SB) 10-K lathe. If anyone has any
experience or expertise in SB drawbars/collet attachments, I could
really use your help. My 10-K lathe (used, good condition, estate
sale) was set up by previous owner (deceased, so I can't ask him) to
primarily use 3 4 jaw chucks but came with an apparently complete
collet attachment full set of 6-K collets. In trying to get the
attachment back into service, it seems that some parts are either
missing or worn out. I have a SB parts list that shows a take-up
ring screw washer at the spindle end; this is missing from my
machine. Looks like these might be needed in order to attach the
drawbar. Parts list also shows a "key" or pin of some type that is
supposed to fit in the sleeve-end of the draw bar where it slides
into the spindle. Also shows a small pin or screw at the
threaded-end of the spindle shaft that is supposed to keep the
fitted collet from turning; this seems to be sheared off; can't tell
if it was a straight or tapered pin, a screw-in or drive fit. If
anyone can help, I would like to correspond with you via email or
snail-mail. If you have a set of the original (SB) instructions on
any of this, I would really like to get a copy.
(22861) |
| I
have that unit on my 9A. The only attachment point is the pivot pin
on the left headstock casting. The drawbar head only slides into the
spindle and over the small pin in the side of the spindle. Nothing
more. Tell me the parts list numbers for these so I can figure out
what these are. On the lathe spindle? The catch pin in the spindle
nose is not really necessary. RichD(22864) |
| My parts drawing shows a pin or screw in a collar of some
type mounted on on the left end of the spindle shaft (calls it a
take-up nut). From what you said, it would seem like the slot in the
drawbar sleeve simply slides over (engages) this pin or screw head
and that is what "connects" the drawbar assembly to the spindle
(other than the cast iron yoke bar, which I found did fit on a rod
projecting from the headstock case). Sound correct ? Good to know
the pin in the working (threaded) spindle end is not needed. Mine is
sheared off the remains embedded in the spindle cone. Not sure I
could get it out to replace it. (22909) |
| Steve: You
still need that pin broken off in your spindle if you plan on using
6K Collets as they require no Spindle Adapter Sleeve and still
require something to stop them from spinning in Spindle and damaging
Spindle Bore . If you plan on using 3C or 1A Collets then I THINK
there was a special Spindle Adapter Sleeve sold by SB but I am not
100% sure. Anyway your Closer will have the correct threads in it
for 6K and not 1A or 3C collets. Who is the member that converted
his 10K to take a 9" Spindle or vise-versa? Do you have any insight
into this ? Ron
(22943) |
| Yes Ron, I
do. The 10 K uses the same adapter for 3C as the normal 9" spindle.
Its not a special. I agree you should replace the pin. There is also
an adapter available, although rare, which will take 3AT collets. I
have all three. Jim B. (22950) |
| Jim: If Steve
has the 10K Handlever Closer Attachment ( I assume that is what he
has although I believe his original post just said 10K Lathe with
Handlever Closer) then he MUST fix the Spindle Pin or else he would
not be able to use 6K Collets. If however the attachment he has is
for the 9" ( but fits the 10K) then all he would need is the spindle
adapter sleeve and 1A or 3C collets and then he would be away to the
races. Ron
(22951) |
| I forgot to
mention in both posts that the drew bar for 3AT has the same threads
as 3C. The 3AT collets are sorter and slightly larger in OD
requiring a spacer on the spindle and a different adapter. Jim
B. (22959) |
| C4 Collets |
| Which lathe uses
the C4 collets? I have an almost complete set of C4s with the
headstock adapter and original SB collet rack (minus the lathe
attachment arm), many of the collets are original SB. I'm curious as
to which lathe its supposed to fit. The current accessories catalog
doesn't even list C4s. The adapter is similar to the 5C with the
large diameter being 1.328", the smaller is 1.247", the largest
collet is 3/4". The C4 isn't a typo, that's what SB engraved on
them. Bernard R
(24380) |
| Me thinks the
14.5" with the 1.125" thru hole spindle
(24381) |
| You are
correct. Look in this site for collets and other neat stuff. www.shopswarf.orcon.net.nz
Bob (24382) |
| Bernard: just
was reading your post about C4 collets. I have a collet rack with
this code stamped on it CR-100. The holes are .945 It was sold to me
as a 3C collet rack which they fall thru the holes. On the tray left
side it has 4 holes all different sizes. Turn the rack over and
under the tray is stamped 780F2 The bed clamp underside is stamped
864F1. I think it is for 4C collets and a 14 1/2 lathe. If anyone
knows what lathe this was made for I would like to know. I plan want
to sell it and was going to ask Rose at Parts Work if she knew. But
tonight I saw the your post so I am asking for help on this. Dave
(24384) |
| The "C" in
C4, C5 etc stands for Cataract which was a predecessor of Hardinge.
The C4's are slightly smaller than C5's and I think the max size is
3/4. Some Hardinge, Cataract and the Rockwell 10 use them. Just some
info I ran across. It probably doesn't help you much but I thought
it was interesting.
(24385) |
| Dave: Collet
Rack with those sizes and Casting and Stamped numbers is definitely
for a 14-1/2" SMALL BORE SB Lathe. There is a large bore model in
14-1/2" that uses 5C collets. I just sold a Collet Rack for that
configuration. Someone Emailed me recently looking for the size rack
you have so I will dig up his Email address and forward it to you.
My 4C collets however measure .950 Diameter so are you sure of hole
size? Ron (24386) |
| Is 4C a typo?
Sheldon lathes used the 4C collets. (24387) |
| Some South
Bend Collets are marked 4C and some are marked C4. I have a few of
both. Ron (24388) |
| Jon, No
help here either but it might be of interest to some. I actually
have an old, about 1920's Hardinge, Cataract Lathe that takes the 5C
collets right in the spindle. It's a secondary operation lathe.
Jim (24390) |
| Need a Collet?
Buy? Make? |
| Reading HTRAL for the umpteenth time (I must be a real "born to be a
lathe op" cuz I STILL like that material) I have been kinda skimming
the part about collet work. I been sayin' "collett-schmollett, I
ain't gonna build no watches!" All this talk about collets on here,
lately and in the past stuff I been diggin' in has now piqued my
interest. Seem I have realized that if your tailstock is centered
dead on the headstock, AND you have a collet, chuck brain damage is
cured, and all that horsing around with faceplates, dogs an such is
on the back burner. SO! DO you have to spend an arm and a leg to get
a VERY basic collet set up? Please don't ask me to make one
already. You guys are gonna hear a lot of tears from me before I
tackle such a project. It would seem to me that one could get by
with three maybe four sizes of collets. What say the Sages?
(25745) |
| Just a
caution about buying cheaper collets - they may have more runout
than you bargained for, like a couple thou or so. If you plan to do
work finer than that, and can't always take a truing cut, go for the
better ones. I'll let the experts tell you which they are. Irby
(25746) |
| Simple answer
is you must pay what market value is, which on that commodity as well
as Steady Rests , Follower Rests and Micrometer Stops is getting top
$. What size lathe you working with? Ron (25747) |
| I have 5C
collets, which I use when ever I can for the reasons you have
mentioned. However, with to-days technology, I would be seeing if I
couldn't make an adapter for ER collets, the collets themselves
aren't too expensive on e-bay. The one problem with the single angle
split collets is that you have to be working with pretty much stock
sizes, too big and it won't go in, too small and you're holding the
work just on the outer ring of the collet. ERs on the other hand,
with their double taper, are designed to fit a size range, so you
end up with far fewer collets covering the entire range for that
series of collet. Depending on which lathe you have you could use
either ER32s(0.787" max) or ER40s(1" max). Bernard R (25753) |
| Hopefully in
the next couple of weeks I can get my ER40 collet chuck done. I have
about 80 bucks in a whole set of collets and some labor. I think it
would be easier to make a chuck with ER collets than with
5C's. Bob (25754) |
| On second
thought, I'd go for ER40s as an extra protrusion from the spindle is
no big deal.
(25755) |
| There is a
nice pic of an ER collet chuck on the 8x18 group homepage. That's
sort of how I am making mine like. I just increased the ER collet
size. Bob (25756) |
| Jerry, If you need dead nuts prefect,
collet sets are the way to go. If you cannot afford a set, see if
you can get a nice closer and piece together the major sizes you
need for stock. In 3C, I use 1/8, 3/16,1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16 and 1/2.
I have 32nds and some 64ths, but rarely go to that. If the parts can
be had cheap, you get a nice usable set. HOWEVER, do you have a
Jacobs spindle chuck? You may want to get one of those first. I use
that more than the collets. They are under $150 used, and have much
more versatility than the collet sets. Runout is under .001. Any
other members use one of these? Mike
(25758) |
| Bob, Did you
buy the nut or make it? I haven't been able to find the specs and
didn't know if the thread was English or Metric, as I haven't got
change wheels and I hate cutting metric threads on an inch LS, I was
going to make my own if I had to. Bernard R (25759) |
| Bernie, I
plan on cutting my own. I have checked everywhere for a American
thread and can't find one either. I am still waiting for my collets
to come in. Bob
(25761) |
| So does
this mean I am going to make another collet closer? (25766) |
| Wayne that's
half the fun of more toys. Bob (25767) |
| Bob, do you
intend to use the spindle thread or a drawbar to retain the chuck
body? Also, have you a dimensioned drawing of the collet nut? I've
done a pretty exhaustive search of Google but without success.
Bernard R (25772) |
| Bernie, I
have the collet body made, it screws on the spindle. I think I saw
collet nut dims at www.airgas.com
I know its in their paper book. I
was just going to size it up myself per the collets. Let me do some
digging on the nut drawing. Bob
(25773) |
| Lots of very
good feedback from you fellows. If I run into some
collets and the "closer" , I think you called it, I may get them. As
was said, the market sets the price and likely to pay a nice stack
of paper for the stuff. The lathe I am using is a 9". Sounds like
the steady rest and the follower rest that I got with it is a lucky
thing for me! I have a Jacobs chuck that Dad always put in the
tailstock. He used that a lot. I am guessing that the shaft on it is
a #2 MT, so it wont work in the headstock. (right?) I also have two
other Jacobs chucks , still in the metal box they were delivered in.
I know frightfully little about them. They are labeled to be "for
armature work". I can, of course, understand that statement. I also
can play with them enough to tell they are not your "plain" Jacobs
chucks. After that my knowledge is pretty laughable. Mike (25778) |
| You might consider doing what I did and buying the nut. They're not
particularly expensive and it seemed to me that it would be
difficult to make, particularly the eccentric ring in the nose which
extracts the collet when unthreaded. I made my collet chuck for ER32
collets, since the maximum size pretty well exactly matches the
spindle bore of my 9" lathe. Nick (25781) |
| Nick, Any
ideas where to get one in English threads. The only ones I found are
metric and 80 bucks. Chris over at the 8x18 group has given me his
insight on making one. Bob
(25782) |
| Jerry, You
can use the mt2 tooling in the headstock with an appropriate MT2 to
(whatever) sleeve. The sleeves are fairly inexpensive and provide a
lot of flexibility for tooling. George (25789) |
| ER
collets are to a German Standard DIN 6498 so, if you want to keep it
standard you are stuck with metric threads. My ER 32 holder is 40 mm
diam, 1.5 mm pitch. If you brew your own nut anything similar will do,
1 5/8 at 16 tpi sounds good to me for ER 32 but then you have to cut
that eccentric extractor ring in the nut which looks a total PIA. Don't
even think about trying to do without it as ER collets are very close
to self holding taper and need a good pull to get them out, donking
from the rear looks pretty unpromising. An alternative approach is to
keep an eye on E-Bay for holders on the large milling machine tapers
30, 40 or 50. These frequently go pretty low and there is a good bit of
metal to modify for fitting onto a small lathe. Gets you a hardened
socket too. Main drawback is that the mounting taper is hard too and,
usually the steel is pretty good. Angle grinder to unwrap the hardening
and good sharp tooling. Clive (25793) |
| Clive, thanks for the suggestion of using one of the larger CAT holders
bears looking into. I'm going to try some experiments on single
pointing a metric thread on my CMC mill / Rotary table, that will
give me a push one way or the other. I really like the idea of
changing to ERs, I'd like to do both the SB and mill, that way I
only have to have one set of collets and with the current price of
SB parts I'd likely come out ahead if I ebay the lathe system.
Bernard R (25799) |
| You can buy
an ER32 collet chuck that screws onto the SB 9" spindle for about as
much as a nut costs from other suppliers:
http://www.bealltool.com
I have one and find it works great. Due to the screw-on holder, I
believe it doesn't have the same concentricity as 3Cs inside the
spindle, but its still quite good. I happen to have a full set of 3C
collets, so tend to use them before going to the ER collets on the
lathe. This setup is good for sized over 1/2". Rick (25800) |
| Bob, I bought mine mail order in the UK for (I think) about œ12
which would be about $20. As far as I know they only come with a
metric thread but I got round this by hand filing a gear for the SB
which cut the thread near enough exactly. Personally, I found that
cutting the internal taper was the hardest part, I'm not sure it's
exactly right even now but the last step will be to case harden it
and then do a final light grind to get it 'just so'. Nick
(25814) |
| Nick, I've
been trying to give the overall design some thought and I'm
wondering which will give the greatest accuracy: 1. Use the spindle
taper and retain with a 'nut' on the spindle threads. 2. Make the
body to screw onto the spindle. Though it's more work I'm inclined
to option 1. Thoughts - Pros / Cons? I ran an experiment to cut a
thread on my CNC mill/rotary table to- day using a single point
tool, slower than hell but gave very good results; opens up all
sorts of possibilities, it means I can now cut metric threads and if
ever the need arises multi starts. Bernard R (25821) |
| I am looking
for the #3 mt but I might have a 2 to 3 adapter if you think that
will work. (25823) |
| I will have
to go look, and respond, maybe direct email. Gary. (25824) |
| If you use
the spindle taper draw it from behind. I have done this before with
other tooling. If you do the spindle set up you will loose the whole
through the headstock. I have seen these closers with a MT3 taper,
it would just fit the SB 9" and 10K right out of the box, you would
just need to hold it on place. (25825) |
| Bernard,
In some respects, option 1 would be easier, since you won't need to cut
the taper. Disadvantages seem to me to include the fact that the Morse
taper isn't self releasing which means finding some way of knocling the
collet out from behind, and that you will be limited in the size of the
through hole. I went for option 2, using the following stages (based on
using ER32 collets): Get a length of bar 2 1/4 dia x 3 long and bore a
3/4 hole right through it. Bore and thread one end to screw onto the
spindle. This needs to be done right as everything else depends on it.
I cut as exact a copy of my spindle thread and register as I could out
of brass so as to check the fit without needing to unchuck the work. If
it's no good when finished, start over with a new length of bar. Screw
the body onto the spindle and lightly machine the sides and end (this
is just so it looks real nice, it's probably not necessary from an
engineering point of view). The work stays screwed to the spindle from
now until the jobs finished. Lightly re bore the through hole, this
should now be perfectly concentric with the spindle and lathe axis
assuming the lathe itself is OK. Cutting the taper for the collet and
thread for the nut is fairly obvious from now on, except you need to
remember that that the collets move quite a long way in on their
minimum setting so the taper needs to be deeper than you might
initially expect. Nick (25848) |
| ER40 collet
chuck |
| I bored my chuck
body for ER40 collets tonight. I pushed a collet in the taper and
ran the lathe. Runout is super small. Well worth the 80 bucks I have
in the 14 piece set of collets. Now to make a nut. Bob
(26098) |
| I have
been noting this thread on the ER 40 collet chuck, but I must admit,
not looking too closely. I dunno what an ER 40 is. You recall my
offhanded interest in collets recently. So, any pics out there
of this project? Sumthin' I can ruminate on whilst I play with this
old SB 9A.? Jerry (26100) |
| I will
have plenty of how to make it pics as soon as I get my digital
camera back from my kid. Bob (26101) |
| Where did you get
14 collets so cheap too? Jim (26108) |
| The guys on eBay
sell the Chinese ER32 and ER40 sets for *way* cheaper than ETM's.
I've avoided them because I've heard several folks complain about
really poor concentricity with them. Any comments on the Chinese
ER's?
(26110) |
| On eBay,
$70.99 + 10 bucks shipping. Seller ID 800watt I am sure he has
more. Bob (26115) |
| I just need
to fine tune my ER40 collet chuck. Runout is very good as is the
price. 80 bucks and some
time. Pics are under my aametalmaster profile. Bob (26223) |
| I really like
the collet chuck! Makes me wonder why I didn't think of that sooner.
Guess I will have to make one to fit my lathe and ER25's that I have
already. Thanks for the idea! I would "assume" the closer just has
the angle on the inside or did you make the "snap in washer" that a
standard collet closer nut has? (26224) |
| I have never seen inside a factory made collet nut so I am kinda
lost at that point. Mine just has the nose taper without the washer.
If collet removal is a problem I will just make a brass knocker.
Bob (26225) |
