| Carriage lock info needed
(May 18, 2001) |
Micrometer end stop usage
(Jun 10, 2003) |
| Carriage Stop Designs Solicited
(Feb 20, 2002) |
9"/10K SB Thread Stop
Construction (Sep 11, 2003) |
| Please ID this carriage stop
(Feb 27, 2002) |
Help Identifying Micrometer Stop
(Dec 3, 2003) |
| Bed Mounting bracket for carriage
stop (Jul 2, 2002) |
Micrometer carriage stop
identification (Mar 2, 2004) |
| Micrometer stop (newbie)
(Jan 3, 2003) |
Carriage Stop Question
(May 27, 2004) |
| Logan, Sheldon, or SB mic
carriage stop? (Jan 11, 2003) |
10L Carriage Stops (Dec
17, 2004) |
| Is there a Carriage lock on a 9"
workshop? (Feb 16, 2003) |
Heavy 10 carriage stop
(Dec 22, 2004) |
| |
| Carriage lock info needed |
| I realize that I am
missing the carriage lock to my apron/saddle. From the parts book, I
think I need 28 PT210NK2 Lack Screw 29 AS62 NK2 Lack can someone who
has a lack confirm this? I am tempted to simply make one. If you
could also provide info on how the stock one works and/or dimensions
of part I would greatly appreciate it. dennis
(659) |
| It's just a little roughly square
piece with either a step milled on it or a pin attached (I forget
which) which is pulled up against the bottom of the front way and
saddle by a screw that goes down though the hole in the front top of
the saddle. Should not be too hard to make one that fits. Stock
screw has the typical SB square head for the little wrench that
comes with the machine. Which size lathe is this for? Chris (662) |
| Who just posted the
pic's of the lathe ? maybe they can snap a shot of the lock and post
it. (unless that was you ?) Dave (663) |
| Its for a 9" Model A, Under
Mount Drive. Unit Code stamp on the saddle are "S-102NK Y21 C" The
part Numbers in my book are incorrect, CE3455. It lists it on page
17 as #35: Eng. Saddle Assy. The part numbers and descriptions I got
were from another website, I cant remember which. (John Wassers's
perhaps) are there dowel pins or similar that keep it aligned?
dennis (664) |
| The saddle lock
can't be removed without partially removing the apron due to a
clearance issue, but I think this should be enough information to
fabricate one. The following is from a 9" model C (plain apron) but
if memory serves my 13" SB (which is equivalent to the 9" model A,
feature wise) is about the same. The lock is a rectangle 1/2" high
cut to fit between the right top corner of the apron and the front
of the feed race. It has a pin on the right side, probably 3/16" or
1/4" in diameter which rubs on the front of the way. On the left
side (towards the center of the apron) it is lifted towards the
saddle by a hole threaded for a 5/16-18 bolt. The bolt measures
about 2.6" long 2" not counting the head, with the about 1" of the
length threaded. The head is 3/8" square to match the supplied
wrench. Hope you can make one from that, Chris (665) |
| Further
investigation reveals that the carriage lock is not simply
rectangular. Rather the right front corner is notched away. This
leaves a tab on the left side which fits a pocket on the apron, and
is what prevents removing it without taking the apron most of the
way off. ASCII art is always risky, but here goes _________ | |
Where T is the 5/16-18 hole and P is the pin | T _P_| |___| --
Chris (666) |
| Henry, I think I
promised you info on the carriage lock about a month ago. I'm glad
you were able to get it in the mean time. I have yet to tear down
the carriage and apron -- sorry. I still have that little piece I
promised you that looks like it might be a carriage lock off a 9"
but I didn't want to send it too you until I was sure of what it
was. It's still yours if you need it and if I can determine if it is
in fact a carriage lock off a 9" SB. Paul R. (668) |
| Henry, Paul et al:
yes I would still like a picture, dimensions and/or drawings of the
carriage lock. I would ideally like to fabricate the part as much as
possible before taking the apron apart. dennis (669) |
| Here's the scan of
the lock it you have problems reading it I'll draw it up.
http://dragonpitdesigns.com/temp/carriagelock.jpg
Henry (670) |
| Carriage Stop
Designs Solicited |
| I need to make a
new carriage stop for my 9" SB and thought I'd see if anybody has
any designs they'd like to share. My plan is to make use of a
micrometer head I happen to have available. I've reviewed the
designs in the HSM Projects and Metalworking books and will probably
to some sort of hybrid clamping arrangement based on the published
designs. Paul R. (3334) |
| Every time I
see the price of a SB micrometer carriage stop I think about
building one out of an old micrometer myself, it can't be that hard.
Randy (3340) |
| Please ID this
carriage stop |
| Could
anyone of you look at the photo links below and tell me what lathe
this carriage stop was made for? I have been using it on my South
Bend Heavy-10 (10L) but the screw does not hit the pad on the
carriage. It works, but I believe it was built for an 8 inch, 9
inch, or light 10 (10K) lathe?? The distance from the center of the
top of the "V" to the center of the stop screw is 1-1/4 inch, the
length of the stop screw is about 4-3/16 inch, the length of V-way
is about 2.0 inch, and the dial moves the stop screw .125 inch per
dial revolution.
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL58/437576/655255/7432364.jpg
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL58/437576/655255/7432360.jpg
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL58/437576/655255/7432347.jpg
(3424) |
| I can't tell
you what it's for, but I can tell you what it isn't for. It's not
for a 10K, so likely it isn't for the 9" either. The micrometer
carriage stop for my 10K has the dial mounted in a vertical slot in
the center of the body, and the threads for the non-rotating spindle
are never exposed. Perhaps it belongs to a different make or a
clone. Raymond
(3438) |
| The one thing that
can be determined from those pictures is that that stop is fairly
old. Look at the head of the setscrew, it was carefully finished ,the
brass screw head is also an old style. Scott Logan is probably the man
who can ID the thing. It doesn't match any catalog pics that I have
seen. RC (3440) |
| Mark, there is
an identical unit on ebay right now. Try the link below.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1715374311 The brass thumb screw is from an old lamp. It should
be steel. Webb (3724) |
| The micrometer stop
clamps onto the front vee way. The carriage bumps against it as you
move it to the left. You can use is with a clutch-engaged powerfeed,
as long as you don't tighten the clutch too much. Jon (3777) |
| Bed Mounting
bracket for carriage stop |
| Where does this
mount on a Heavy 10? Is it to allow the Micrometer carriage stop to
be placed closer to the headstock? These brackets seem to have 5
holes in them. What are the holes for? George (4901) |
| George, It is
mounted on the bed, "V" up and out, using the two holes found on the
bed between the headstock and the gearbox. Most heavy 10's have
these holes. One can then mount the Micrometer Carriage Stop,
without base plate, on the "V" of the bracket to provide a stop when
doing collet work, or anything else close to the headstock. The
three, threaded holes provide some adjustment range to position the
stop for your work. Joe (4913) |
| Joe, Great
description. Great picture. I've been trying to figure out how to
design an adapter (and the micrometer stop) for my 9" SBL but I
didn't get how the stop would avoid the QC gearbox. I've seen the
pieces before, but you pulled it together for me. I didn't know that
you would take off the clamp to bolt the stop to the adapter plate.
Quite simple once you see it. Paul (4915) |
| I've just acquired
one of these beauties for my Heavy 10. Err. . . where does it mount?
It appears to mount near the headstock with two screws into the V-
ways. If so, do you remove the bracket from the bottom and screw the
carriage stop into one of the three screws? My carriage stop screw
doesn't fit those three holes, but my screw might not be original.
Also, what is the purpose of the ground flat then? George
(5039) |
| Joe, Thank you so
much! Very appreciated. I did guess right. Wonder why they have that
ground flat part though? Did they cut up reject lathe beds for them?
George (5053) |
| Micrometer stop
(newbie) |
| I have a micrometer
stop and don't know what size lathe it fits. How can I find out? It
measures 1.875 from vee to centerline of shaft. Will this fit a 13"
sbl? (8457) |
| If this is a SB
micro-stop, it should have numbers/letters on both the main cylinder
and the clamping plate. Post these and I will reply with the lathe
it is made for. Bill (8458) |
| Look
over the carriage stop and see if you can find the Unit Code. It
should be on the left hand side, on the round cover plate. The last
letter indicates the size lathe it fits. Codes like "MCS 100 T", the
"T" is for thirteen inch lathes. Other suffix codes are: "N" - nine
inch, "K" - 10K, "R" - Heavy Ten, "F" - 14 1/2 inch, "H" - sixteen
inch. I hope this information helps. Webb
(8459) |
| There also is a
1200 rt3 on stop and 1201r2 on btm clamping piece. (8461) |
| It sound
like your Carriage Stop is for a "Heavy Ten." Webb (8465) |
| Logan, Sheldon,
or SB mic carriage stop? |
| I have a carriage
stop that came w/ my SB 10L, but it does not hit the "pad" on the
carriage as a proper carriage stop should. I have installed this
carriage stop on a friends SB 10K and it fits perfect. Snug to the
ways and hits right on the carriage "pad". Pics at:
http://members2.boo.net/~mlong/carrstop_1.jpg
http://members2.boo.net/~mlong/carrstop_2.jpg
http://members2.boo.net/~mlong/carrstop_3.jpg But I don't believe it
is a SB carriage stop. A person told me it may be a Logan or Sheldon
carriage stop. Quality and fit and finish is very nice as is typical
of American made components. Even though it didn't hit the pad on my
10L I have used it for the past 15 years and it has worked
flawlessly and consistently. I now have a proper fitting stop for my
10L now and wish to sell it but I would like to identify its maker
before it goes up for sale.
Mark (8639) |
| Nope, not a Logan.
Scott Logan (8640) |
| Thanks Scott. Is
anyone aware of a Sheldon lathe forum or listserve where I might ask
of its origin? (8641) |
| Mark, the Sheldon
group is at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sheldonlathe/
Johnny (8646) |
|
I don't think its a south
bend either. They are a cylindrical form, from what I have seen. I have
seen that stop before in my lathe surfing, but I don't know where. By
the way a south bend stop for the 9 10k fits on the Logan 9b.It wont
go up past the gearbox on the Logan, but it does fit the bed. RC
(8666) |
| Is there a
Carriage lock on a 9" workshop? |
| I have a 9" model
C. Is there supposed to be a carriage lock on this model? There's a
hole on the right side of the carriage just in front of the bed that
looks like it could maybe be for a clamp or something. Just seems
like there should be a way to lock the carriage in place for
facing/parting. Mark (9343) |
| 28 PT210NK2 Lock
Screw 29 AS62 NK2 Lock Nothing fancy, a piece of plate and a screw
would do since you have the hole. Okey (9347) |
| Mark; Yes, there
should be, the two parts (bolt and clamp block) are missing on many
old lathes. I need to make the clamp and a nice square head bolt for
my SB9 as well. As you figured, it mounts in the open hole directly
behind the right hand machine screw that secures the apron to the
carriage. Stan (9348) |
| These come up
occasionally on ebay. I've got a good picture that I downloaded to
use as a pattern for the one I made. When I find it I'll post it.
John (9352) |
Yes, the 9" has a
carriage lock. before you go looking for one, make sure yours is not
loose in there and only missing the screw. you will probably need to
remove the apron. search in the archives. (I feel like a bastard
saying rtfm but I guess that's what I am saying). I asked the same
question a couple of years ago and someone was kind enough to post a
dimensioned sketch. I can't remember who it was, and I don't have
the jpg anymore. Look for instructions/tips on apron removal too. It
was easy enough to make with ordinary tools. I think I used a piece
of a odd casting and drilled and tapped a hole. Filed a bit and got
a reasonable lock. I used a regular unf hex bolt for mine. the
purists will cringe, but use whatever works in the meantime. dennis
(9360) |
| I posted a
photo of a carriage lock to the photo section. It is named SB9 Saddle
Lock John (9365) |
| Micrometer end
stop usage |
| I've just
bought a SBL Workshop 9B, circa 1942. It is in great shape
generally, slop in the compound slide but there are many suggestions
from the forum of how to sort this. My question is about the
micrometer end stop it came with. I think it is original, it is the
exact same as the picture on page 99 of the Lindsay reprint of the
1942 edition of 'How to Run a Lathe'. The stop consists of a single
knurled graduated screw with a zero mark scratched on a machined
flat on the body of the stop. Now this is fine for one rotation
only, normally a micrometer has series of graduations which are
exposed counting the number of turns from zero. This doesn't, is
there a bit missing? The knurled graduated end is fitted in a keyway
is sprung loaded, so can be moved back forth by about 3/4 of an inch
or so. Really dumb questions, but this is not a micrometer as I know
it. I thought it was incomplete until I spotted the picture in the
book. Also in the HTRAL book, many of the turning operations are
illustrated using 'dogs' to drive the work between centers. The
lathe came with the slotted plate shown, but no dogs. Can't find
these for sale anywhere (in the UK). I'm guessing that this may no
longer be the best practice for turning most people now use a chuck
plus tailstock centre, is this so? Jon (11887) |
| You will find
dogs still in common use for turning between centers which is more
accurate than holding one end in a chuck. If you have trouble
finding dogs you can build your own simply enough. Sooner or later
you will need lathe dogs. Steven (11891) |
| Nothing is missing
on your carriage stop. You have to count the turns yourself.50
thousandths per turn. Most of the time when you use the micrometer
stop it doesn't involve that many turns. I have used it to take off
amounts greater than .050 on occasion. The trickiest thing when using
the micrometer stop is getting the zero point. The slop in the
micrometer threads makes it difficult to work from zero on the
dial. It seems to work more accurately if you lock the stop down and
dial it up to the carriage, rather than setting it to zero and try to
lock it down against the carriage. I parted off a few .010 washers
the other day using the micrometer stop, and had only one scrap. You
can make the so called clamp dog very easily from steel square
stock. The notch in the center of each piece is simply filed out. As
someone already said turning between centers is the most accurate.
RC (11900) |
| 9"/10K SB
Thread Stop Construction |
There was a 9"/10K
SB thread stop recently on E-bay that I was interested in and was
planning to bid on. But I started looking at it and realized that it
would be very easy to construct (the one on E- bay eventually sold
for $108.50!). I'm planning on using a piece of nylon plastic that I
have (that machines extremely well). If anyone has an actual SB
thread stop I have a few questions. What size is the gib screw that
holds it to the dove tail? What size is the screw that stops the
cross slide? And does the screw that stops the cross slide line up
with the hole at the end of the cross slide (it doesn't look
threaded, but I only took a cursory look)? I realize the size of the
screws is not that important, but I'd like to use the same size as
on an original part.
(13891) |
| I would like to
make one also - your idea of using nylon is great! Perhaps some kind
person could post a quick sketch of the original, with dimensions?
Frank (13895) |
| Here's an idea
get an 1 inch micrometer [ about $10 bucks off Ebay] and cut off the
the bottom. Make a block that slides on the front V way of
the lathe bed with a clamping bolt on the bottom of the bed. Attach the micrometer spindle on the block.
Now you've got
a really accurate threading stop. mn (13896) |
| The only problem is
that the stop works the other way. It causes you to feed the cross
slide back to the same non dimensional point every time after
backing out to return to the starting point. You can do the same
thing on the dial but you need to remember the setting where with
the stop it is automatic. You could make these things out of a small
piece of steel or aluminum for a buck or so and the set screw in the
side of mine is 1/4-28 and the stop screw is a 1/4-20 just long
enough to give a 1/4inch gap when it is locked into the cross slide. JWE (13897) |
| David, my thread
stop is in 2 peaces. there is no gib screw. There is a bolt that
joins the two pieces together. The split is off set to one side of
the hole that the stop bolt goes through. This tightens the stop up
to the gibs, off set on the other side of the hole is a set bolt
that goes down on the top of the gib housing that draws the thread
stop up again the gibs. The bolt hole on the thread stop lines up
with the treaded hole on the end of the cross slide. Mine fits a 21
in SB. The smaller ones may be made different. Shouldn't be to hard
to make. Duane (13899) |
| I've attached a
picture of the thread stop that was being sold on E-bay in the photo
section of the forum. It has a scale under it to give a general idea
of the dimensions and gives an idea of the simple construction.
Seemed so simple to build that I didn't even try to bid on it
(there's another one on E-bay at the moment without the stop screw
with a beginning/"Buy It Now" price of $100. Dave (13900) |
| Don't forget the
brass insert that's under the setscrew. If you run the point of a
regular setscrew into that dovetail slide you will be looking for
someone with scraping skills to repair it, so your cross slide will
work again. RC (13958) |
| RC, You're right. I
was thinking of that also. I'm going to try to run a parallel cut to
the dovetail about 1/16" thick that I won't drill/tap. I'm hoping
the plastic will be flexible enough that it will allow the set screw
to push it against the dovetail. Otherwise I'll make the dovetail
longer and cut a separate gib. I've ordered a 60 degree dovetail
mill to try to make construction easier. Depending on how it works
out, I may make some extra ones and offer them to the forum. I'm new
to this and want to make sure they look "professional" vs.
amateurish. Dave (13960) |
| I went looking for
one for my heavy 10 and found 2 different clamping styles. One uses
a set screw for the 9/10K and the other is 2 pieces and the screw
clamps the assembly to the dovetail. Is this a workable solution for
you? You could always use a brass or plastic tipped set screw to
protect the ways with the first approach. JP (13961) |
| JP, Someone else
mentioned that style. You wouldn't have a picture of the two piece
style would you? I was also thinking of using a nylon screw to push
against the dovetail. I'll experiment and see what works best. Dave (13962) |
| I think I followed
the links (first one) and it was shown under the 10" accessories.
nylon (13964) |
| Dave, The SBL
exploded view shows a thicker area at the 'stop screw', this is not
visible in the pictures you were sent to. Presumably this rear boss
helps in keeping the part from rotating. JP (13971) |
| Help
Identifying Micrometer Stop |
| I have a
SB Lathe Bed Micrometer stop with the following info stamped on it.
On pin end is MCS 102T and stamped in body is 1200 RT3. Can anybody
tell me what size machine this fits? Ron (15326) |
| Heavy 10. Rigrac (15333) |
| My heavy 10
micrometer stop has MCS-102R on the end, not MCS-102T. For other
parts, R is the normal designation for parts for the heavy 10
(except parts unique to the large spindle bore, which use an L). In
a similar way, T corresponds to 13". My body casting has the same
1200-RT3 cast in, but that sounds like the casting is suitable for
both the R and the T (i.e. both 10" and 13"). The body casting could
well be machined differently for the 10" and the 13" applications.
So my vote is that the one you have is for the 13", not the heavy
10, based on the MCS-102T. Frank (15335) |
| A side note. There
is an adaptor for using that stop on the larger lathe. The piece has
a section of prismatic way on it to clamp the carriage stop to and a
clamp to fit the bed. SBL trivia 101. RC (15340) |
| Ron, The
Micrometer Carriage Stop you are trying to identify (unit code: MCS
102T) was originally for a Thirteen inch lathe. The last letter in
the unit code (i.e. the "T") identify it as for a Thirteen inch
lathe. Having said that, this carriage stop is identical to the
Heavy Ten unit Except for the bed clamp. The bed clamps carry the
part numbers: PT1201R2 for the Heavy Ten and PT1201T2 for the
Thirteen inch model respectfully. Webb
(15423) |
| Webb, bought one on speculation hoping it would fit my 13". You have
verified that I made a good investment! Ron (15424) |
| Micrometer
carriage stop identification |
| I have a South
Bend carriage stop that I bought for my 10L. It clamps up to the bed
alright but looks to be too small in the length. It doesn't quite
reach the round flat on the side of the carriage. It looks short by
about a half an inch. I looked at several pictures online at the 9
inch and 10k stops but they appear different. Mine has the clamping
bolt off to the left side of the knurled wheel. Anyway some help
identifying it would be great. If it is for my lathe then I'm happy.
The markings are as follows. Round end plate has MS-103N along with
the South Bend stamp. Body has ONK2 on the bottom and BP on top.
John (17540) |
| Any info I have has
Suffix N or NK for 9" and 10K South Bends. Ron (17541) |
| Ron, I kind
of thought it was for one of them. Only deal is the pictures that I
have seen of the 9 inch stop has the knurled ring on the left side.
That's facing the stop while its mounted. I don't know, I haven't
seen one in person. Maybe someone with a 10k or 9 inch could help.
John (17544) |
My South bend parts
manual shows thumbscrew for 9" and 10K on right side when standing
in front of lock when mounted on lathe. It also shows thumbscrew on
the right for Heavy 10"-13"-14 1/2"-16"-16/24" and 17". Knurled
Adjusting Ring has knurl to left for all sizes. Is it possible
someone had unit apart and installed adjusting ring backwards? I
would think unit would still function as normal no matter which way
Knurled Ring was installed. I can scan both items and send to you if
required. Ron
(17545) |
| Sorry, my
description probably wasn't the best. Thumb screw for oil, which is
knurled, is on the right as you are facing the machine. The Knurled
adjuster is in the center of the body as with a heavy 10 and larger.
I have seen the 9 inch with the adjuster only on the left side of
the body. That is what knurled "ring" I was talking about not the
oil cap. John (17547) |
| Carriage Stop
Question |
| I've always
wondered about the use of a carriage stop. If I'm turning towards the
stop with my friction feed can I just let it run into the stop or am
I just heading for a train wreck? I have a south bend 9" A. (19319) |
| Train wreck. (Immovable object, unstoppable
force...) Your clutch, your ways, your apron gears/splines, your
leadscrew, the gears upstream... (whichever yield first, probably
the clutch) do not need this kind of special "honing". Think of the
clutch as the clutch in a pickup truck, not an automatic
transmission. Loosen the clutch and do the last .1 or so by hand. Or
so Old Emmett taught me. Using two hands, you can get smooth at
this. After a while , you'll appreciate why other lathes (and later SBs) have a toggle lever instead of the screw knob. Dave (19320) |
| You know that isn't
so strange a question at all. I was actually wondering almost the
same thing after my clutch saved me from a bad crash g know it isn't
there to just save the gears but it sure does in a pinch. Tom (19328) |
| I use a dial
indicator clamped to the ways. I made the bracket by hogging out a
chunk of aluminum, actually I used a shaper. The bracket is simple
to make, the ways are 90 degrees and have a 1/2" face. A hacksaw and
file can be used to make one. Make a paper template and then cut out
a 1" thick piece of Aluminum or Delrin to match it. The force
against the bracket is very low, only the spring pressure and weight
of the dial indicator. The SB micrometer carriage stop is intended
to be run up to by hand, just like the threading stop for the crosslide. JP (19334) |
| Sounds like my thoughts on the process were correct. I tested the process of lightly
tightening the friction screw and all went well (hand turning the
spindle of course) a little more pressure on the friction nut and
TRAIN WRECK! I'm going to work on my two handed shuffle. How about a one way bearing on the friction nut with a
release leaver running up on the stop. JJ (19338) |
| 10L Carriage
Stops |
| The recent string
about carriage stops prompted me to take a look at eBay where I
found the following item:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=25290item=3860840752 The seller says it came off of a 13"
lathe and clearly it must have. He indicates it might fit a 10L
which got me to thinking. It may be an optical illusion because of
it's overall size, but this one looks like it is narrower than a
regular 10L mic stop. Then I also thought back to when I got my
plain 10L stop, It had the clamp turned around and I remember
reading someplace that this was the way it was used on a 13"! Any
thoughts on this? Could it be narrower than a 10L stop? Would it fit
a 10L? Roy (23149) |
| Yes it was on a 13" I was at
the auction where he bought that lathe and I was the runner up
bidder. It does look narrower then most I have seen. The lathes at
this particular sale had some odd parts on them. This same lathe had
a steady rest with it, that clearly was not correct for it. I have a
feeling the auctioneer just put stuff together with what he thought
looked right. (23152) |
| It looks just like
one is got off an older 10L. It is narrower. It has been sitting on
my desk for about 6 months as I keep intending to ebay it. Ed (23153) |
| Heavy 10
carriage stop |
| Wondering about a fair price for a micrometer carriage
stop for a heavy 10, and if anyone is selling one? George (23334) |
| $100 -
$125 is fair price ill sell you a micrometer stop for $100. fred
(23338) |
