| Those little holes (Apr
5, 2001) |
Small metal clips? (Sep
15, 2003) |
| Gits oil cups Heavy 10
(Jul 3, 2002) |
9A oil cups in Toronto
(Oct 21, 2003) |
| Oiler for 9" SB
(Jan 26, 2003) |
Oil cups (Feb 19, 2004) |
| Oil ports with snap tops - press
or screw fit? (Jan 28, 2003) |
New Oilers for SB-9 (Apr
6, 2004) |
| What are the small holes above
the oilers for? (Feb 4, 2003) |
Headstock Oiler Replacement - 9"
(Apr 6, 2004) |
| QC Box oilers (Mar 9,
2003) |
Bearing Oiler Question
(May 14, 2004) |
| Thread for Headstock Oilers on
9A? (May 22, 2003) |
Heavy 10 headstock oil cups
(Jul 31, 2004) |
| Oilers (Jul 4, 2003) |
Installing oilers (Mar
16, 2005) |
| |
| Those little holes |
| I'm in
the process of reviving an old model C. So old, it doesn't even have
felt packing in the spindle bearings. Luckily that explained why I
couldn't find the holes to insert the wire to hold down the packing.
But unfortunately the lathe has some 1'2" holes on the top of the
spindle bearings that you can fill with oil. I was going to fashion
some caps to cover the holes, but now I'm thinking I should stuff
felt in it or something. Comments? As a result of these open holes
on the top of the spindle bearings, many a chip have been sucked in,
some were ground into the spindle, some took gouges out of the cast
iron. It is pretty ugly in there. Phew, its not my lathe (its a
fellow shop members). chris (479) |
| Sounds like the oil cups are
missing. You can buy little press fit, brass, hinge cover oil cups
for the holes. With felt they should be less than $2 each. (489) |
| And I got mine from
http://www.mcmaster.com Just search for Oil-hole Cover. I also got
my felt wick and felt wiper material there. Paul R. (490) |
| Check the bookmarks section. There is
a web - site listed for the oilers and I also added McMaster-Carr's
link. Jim (494) |
| Gits oil cups Heavy 10 |
| Has anyone ordered
all the cups for this lathe and kept the order numbers? The folks at
Gits are very friendly and helpful but I thought if some of you
complete rebuilders had replaced them it would ease the process. My
cups are all banged up and some no longer close. Do I have to remove
the spindle to replace the wick cups in the head? (please say no)
Strom
(4927) |
| I'm
sorry but I don't have that information. South Bend Lathe (SBL)
doesn't record the gits number. they use their own part number. Some
of the SBL numbers (like 155 x 38) are recorded in form 1178 -
"Commercially Available Hardware." I will list what I know: 155 x 4
- Gits 1401 155 x 5 - Gits 2201 155 x 14 - Ball Valve 523 155 x 15 -
Ball Valve 525 155 x 16 - Ball Valve 520 155 x 17 - Ball Valve 521
155 x 20 - Gits 501 155 x 21 - Gits 502 155 x 23 - Gits 301 155 x 38
- Gits 330 155 x 42 - Gits 803 155 x 44 - Gits 1249 155 x 45 - Gits
2403 155 x 46 - Gits 303 155 x 48 - Gits 213 155 x 53 - Gits 1218
Style "L" Only a couple in this list are used on the Heavy Ten. Some
of the Gits numbers are no longer available but they can get you a
usable replacement. You can check out their catalogue on-line at:
http://www.gitsmfg.com/
Another place to look at would be McMaster-Carr. They sell Gits
oilers (search using "cup oilers"). They carry some of the more
common sizes. They can be found on-line at:
http://www.mcmaster.com/
I haven't ordered anything from Gits in a couple years but back
then, they had a $50.00 minimum. They would take orders that were
less than $50.00 but you have to pay a $5.00 "small order fee."
Therefore, I used to wait until I had a large enough order before
ordering. If you have the old oilers, I would measure them and then
compare it to what is currently available. If someone else has
ordered headstock and apron oilers from SBL relatively recently,
maybe they would be good enough to list what they got. I hope this
information helps. Webb (4934) |
| Oiler for 9" SB
|
| If someone on the
list has a spare PT2677NR1 oiler for a 9" headstock they could sell
me, please contact me off list. Otherwise, I guess I will order one
from Gits or LeBlond. Okey (8930) |
| I needed
replacement oilers for my Heavy 10 and 13 SB lathes. LeBlond has
been pricy and Gits has a $50 minimum or I think an $8 add on for
less. I found at MSC catalog on the internet a range of inexpensive
Gits oilers I needed and you can also order lube oil or something to
get over rhw $25 min. Walt (8943) |
| ENCO has a few GITS
oilers in their catalog.
http://www.useenco.com/pdfs/739.PDF $1 to
$2 each. I don't think there is a minimum order but they have lots
of tooling, equipment etc. Both import and domestic. They will also
send you a big catalog for free. It's well worth it. John (8947) |
| Oil ports with
snap tops - press or screw fit? |
| I recently
purchased a SB model A, #644Y, 9" lathe and in the process of
getting it back into shape, I have found that a number of the snap
top oil covers have lost their snap tops. I have found that the
McMaster Carr catalog carries a wide variety of these in both
straight and 90 elbow. Does anybody know whether these would be a
press or screw fit into the SB castings? My lathe dates from 1947.
Also, any suggestions as to removing oil port bodies that are neatly
sheared off right at the casting? By use of a screw extractor maybe?
John (8976) |
| Most likely
all early Gits cups are screw in. The smallest would be 10-32 thread
up to 1/8" IP. I prefer the square edged extractors. They work both
ways and don't expand the part so badly. RichD (8977) |
| John, The "L"
type oilers are threaded. These are in the headstock and the apron
(around the clutch star knob). The others oilers are pressed in. The
original Gits Bros. numbers for the "L" type is 1218 but these have
been discontinued. The substitute is 1204. The oilers on the gearbox
and the horizontal drive are Gits Bros. 330 but 302's work well too.
The other oiler on the apron (next to the hand wheel) is Gits Bros.
301 but this is discontinued. I think the 300 will fit and is a
close replacement. You can look them up and order them from Gits at
the link below. http://www.gitsmfg.com Last time I ordered from Gits directly, They charged a $5.00 handling fee for all orders
under $50.00 and I think I read here that it has risen to $8.00. You
can also order some of the Gits oilers from McMaster-Carr Supply Co.
and avoid the "handling fee." Webb
(8979) |
| What are the
small holes above the oilers for? |
| In getting my 9" SB #644Y into
usable condition, I have replaced the oiler that was missing (thanks
to those who guided me in the right direction!) but I noticed
something I had never seen before. What is the purpose of the ~3/32"
diameter holes about ~1/2" above the 90 degree oilers for the main
headstock spindle bearings? I'm going to guess that they prevent
overfilling the two oil reservoirs at these locations, right? Also,
is there a way to flush out the old oil/dirt that might be in these
reservoirs? Would the use of a solvent like paint thinner or
kerosene work, or should I not try to flush out the reservoirs? John (9082) |
| The best way to
clean the oil out is to remove the spindle - not hard to do. There
are felts that push against the spindle with springs that help
lubricate the spindle. The small holes are there to slide a wire in
to push down the felts to allow the spindle to be installed. Once
the spindle is installed you remove the wires and the felts once
again push against the spindle to help lube it. Alex (9083) |
| Those 2 little holes are used to hold down the felt oilers
when you replace the spindle. When you remove the spindle the felt
oil wicks, which are spring-loaded, pop up and you would shear them
off if you tried to replace the spindle with them sticking up. What
you do is , with the spindle out, push them below the bearings
surface and push a stiff wire about the diameter of a paper clip up
thru those holes, ram it into the felt wick. This will hold the wick
below the bearing surface. Make certain that no part of the wick is
above the bearing surface. (I user the short end of an Allen wrench
to push the wick down real far) Once the spindle is back, remove the
wires and the wicks will pop up. The holes are drilled at a steep
upward angle - if you try to push the wire in straight it won't go.
You can also remove the oil cups and push a stiff wire thru those
openings to hold down the wick. This is what I do - I use a very
robust stiff wire. Good idea to flush out the sumps. Easiest way is
to remove the oil cups, drain the oil, refill with kerosene and
change the kero a few times. If you have the spindle out, remove the
oil cups and you can really flush out the sump - I use a squeeze
bottle with kerosene and douche the foo out of it. If you have the
spindle out, its a good idea to clean the felt wicks, too. Squeeze
them in kero a few times - a lot of gray crap comes out. Frank (9087) |
| QC Box oilers
|
| The previous
discussion got my curiosity up--looked in the book--shows two oilers
on top of the box, one at each end. Went out and looked at my
box--ONE oiler, on the left side.
Nothing on the right.
No oiler, no hole, no nothing. Down below on the right side you can
see the rib where the oil passage could be to connect the upper and
lower shafts...but no oiler. I'm wondering if it perhaps was never
drilled in manufacture? How many 9/10K owners out there have one
oiler like mine, and how many have two? Good thing I been oiling the
felts on the shafts on the right manually. Lurch (9691) |
| I see at least one
of the lathes in the photos section has only the one oiler, on the
left. There's a QC box on eBay right now #2514542736 which also has
only the one oiler, on the left. I know the parts book shows two
oilers. Opinions on whether it's worth the effort for me to add the
2nd oiler? Anyone know what changed when they added/dropped the 2nd
oiler [on the right] besides the presence or absence of the oiler
itself? Was there a casting change? Was the casting drilled the long
way so the one oiler takes care of both ends? There is a small [
1/4"] perfectly circular depression on the right side of my box,
could be a welch plug, could be a mold ejector pin mark, about 1/32"
deep, pretty close to about the right place to be a welch plug in
the end of a longitudinal passage connecting the left oiler to the
gallery that used to be fed by the right oiler... I got the
compressor up and running again. Maybe I'll just blast some air
into the left oiler and see where the oil spews out. Lurch (9692) |
| If you look at the
underside view of eBay #2514542736 it sure looks like there's a rib
visible from the inside that's in about the same place as that
maybe-a-welch-plug on the right...that 'rib' would be in almost the
perfect place to connect the right-side oil gallery to the left side
oiler...can anyone confirm or deny that's the deal? Lurch (9693) |
| Do not know if it
will help date anything but I have a 9A that went out the door July
30, 1946. It only has one oiler on the left side. Fred (9695) |
| I disassembled my
early-style, single oiler, 9" QC gearbox down to a bare casting last
year. As I remember, that one oiler feeds all 7 shaft bearings. From
there, the oil gets to the gears and the selector lever needle
bearings. I have noticed that the later machines have two oil covers
instead of one. I have no idea when SB made that design change. I am
curious whether the larger lathes (the more expensive original cost
lathes) have holes in the gearbox oil gallery to lube the gears
directly. (9697) |
| Thread for
Headstock Oilers on 9A? |
| The Model A I
picked up at the auction last Saturday does not have oilers on the
headstock. Are these 5/16-32 or 1/8-27NPT? I think they're
1/8-27NPT, which would require a Gits 1207. Can anybody confirm?
Wallace (11345) |
| My model B had the
5/16-32 oilers in the headstock. (11405) |
| Oilers |
| I am
reassembling my 1942 9A and wish to replace some broken oilers. Rose
tells me that they do not come as a kit so I have to spec them
individually. My question is: the one on the top left hand of the
gear change cover will not unscrew, is this a press fit? Also,
following the chat about plates, I have on order from Randy a new QCG plate. My lathe has another, mint, plate on the swinging cover:
Metric Transposing Wheel chart it calls itself. Were these generally
supplied or was it an export item? The lathe was sent to the UK in
Nov 1942. Keith (12491) |
| Yes, the (one or
two) oilers on the 9A gearbox are a press fit. Oilers (oil covers,
oil cups) are available from Leblond, industrial suppliers
www.mcmaster.com, etc. or from
www.gitsmfg.com
directly. (12492) |
| Small metal
clips? |
| While cleaning the
spindle bearings on my Heavy 10, I noticed small metal clips in the
drillings that take oil from the ends of the bearing back to the
reservoir. What are they there for? (13974) |
| I have them on my
Model A also, little brass ones. Do not mix them up, as the outboard
chuck side is different in length from the others. They are oil
return guides that takes the oil that is slung into that V shaped
recess and duct it back into the oil reservoir. If they are missing,
oil will weep out around the chuck and around the drive gear on the
left hand side or foul the felt wick as it tries to get back down,
resulting in over lubrication. Don't ask how I know. (13985) |
| 9A oil cups in
Toronto |
| I
need to find a few replacement oil cups for my 9A and I've hit a
couple of snags: First, I don't know what size they are. I tried to
measure them with a drill but I came up with some odd sizes, like
13/64, surely that must be wrong? Second, what is their proper name
and where do I find them? I'm in Scarborough BTW. BTW, these are: 1
for the Gearbox, 1 for the leadscrew block, 2 for the countershaft
and a couple of smaller one that I can't recall right now. Dumitru (14528) |
| My notes from an
early post recommended Gits mfg ,
www.gits.com 800 323 3238 ( I can t remember if the fellow who
posted was Canadian or if Gits Mfg is a Canadian company) Try the
web site . My notes say Gits price was about $ 1.50 ea compared to
SB $15.00 (14544) |
| Good advice, I
was doing a complete teardown and cleanup, and it never even crossed
my mind when I made the post. I am a charter member of the old
school, and won't mix any lubricants if I can help it. Even if they
are supposed to be equivalents LOL, heck, I still use distilled
water to top off batteries. Okey (14558) |
| Oil cups |
| Randy, Go to page
#2005 in the McMaster-Carr web page. I found them again Tom
http://www.mcmaster.com/
(17393) |
| Thanks for info
about missing oil cup. I am pretty sure I broke it off
loading/hauling/unloading fresh oil running out of threads when I
noticed it but did not notice it missing or oil dripping when I
bought it should have been more careful. Randy
(17399) |
| Your welcome Randy,
One thing, make sure the oil cup isn't a push in one. The ones I
replaced on my apron were push in's. I didn't think to ask the guys
here about my trouble and just found some old threaded oil cups and
threaded the apron. Would have been a lot easier to ask here and go
to Mc Master Carr for the correct new part in the first place. Tom (17400) |
| New Oilers for
SB-9 |
| For any of you who
may want to rebuild the spindle oilers, I have posted a picture of
the two new oilers I just purchased from LeBlond on the sister photo
site. There is a ruler in the photo for scale. I think it answers a
lot of questions you might have. Paul A. (18234) |
| Could you tell me
the title of the pics. I can't find any under your name. Tom
(18239) |
| Replying for
Paul... There is a sister group "southbendlathepix" where photos are
stored, it is the last photo and is titled "New Leblond Oilers for
SB 9". Here's the url, due to word wrap you wont be able to click on
the url, but you can cut and paste. Or follow the link to
southbendlathepix from the footer added to our group e-mails.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathepix/vwp?.dir=/.src=gr.dnm=New+Leblond+Oilers+for+SB-9.jpg .view=t .done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathepix/lst%3f%26.dir=/%26.src=gr%26.view=t
August (18266) |
| Thanks, I thought no
one heard me g cut off so much. Tom (18275) |
| August, my computer has been down for over a week and I am just
getting back to things. The "sister group" thing threw me for a
while too. I hope the picture helps. I know I was confused at first.
Paul A. (18505) |
| Headstock
Oiler Replacement - 9" |
| Ray, Isn't the
oiling of the headstock/spindle important? I bought new ones for
mine(9") a few years ago. Don't remember the price, but it was
reasonable by all means. In this case a factory correct piece gives
me piece of mind. Also bought new ones for my 13" SB and the price
was reasonable. Alex In the rebuild of my 9" Model B, I find I have
to replace the worn out, dirty oilers in the headstock. I have some
heavy white 3/16 - 1/4" thick felt. Is it possible to make up a pair
of oilers from this type of material that would perform
satisfactorily? Having disassembled the old oilers, it looks pretty
straight forward. Has any body done this with success? Ray (18249) |
| The oilers look
deceptively simple. However they serve several functions, Oilers,
and filters, There are two different kinds of felts. Having lost one
headstock to an incomplete felt ( I should have taken it apart and
fixed it), I would recommend you get new ones from LeBlond. Its
cheep insurance. However there was a thread a few months ago from
somebody who did rebuild them. Check the archives. Do a search on
felts or oilers. Jim B. (18252) |
| I guess I will have to bite the bullet. Does anyone have
the address for LeBlond for new oilers then? Ray (18253) |
| Le Blond Ltd. P.O.
Box 67000 Dept 134101 Detroit MI 48267-1341 513 953 0099 The Oilers
I got carried a part # Part # SBAS373N1 $11 each about a year ago
(04/02/03) www.leblondusa.com
Jim B. (18255) |
| Ray, This is the
guy to order from at LeBlond emorris@leblondusa.com Paul (18257) |
| I just ordered a
set from southbend today for my 9" they were $15.00 Ed (18264) |
| Go to,
www.leblondusa.com/html/south_bend_history.html (18273) |
| I will be listing
some oilers on eBay today. They are new and came from the South Bend
Lathe plant. I don't know what they fit so some may be what you are
looking for. Richard (18274) |
| Bearing Oiler
Question |
| I am
cleaning up a 13" (a 1960), that I recently purchased. I opened up
the bearings and everything looks good. I am not so sure what the
felt oilers (the round ones under the bearings) should look like. I
guess they are just felt rods inside a bronze tube? It doesn't
appear on my lathe that the felt sticks up much above the bronze
tube part, which makes me think they need replacement. Where is a
good place to order replacements? (or should I just order some felt
rope from McMaster...) I have been a little careful with them in
case it is difficult to get a replacement, and I haven't even
removed them yet. james (19056) |
| I believe that:
http://www.leblondusa.com/
can get you the parts if you need them. I don't know anything other
than I searched for them and found this site. (19063) |
| Heavy 10
headstock oil cups |
| What is the proper oil level in the chuck side cup?
Mine
seems to drain down to the top of the fill line where the left brg.
cup stays at about 3/4 full. I cant seem to see where its leaking
out but I don't think its getting overfilled either. (20278) |
| My Heavy
Ten behaves in exactly the same way g right one up everyday. I think
the oil shows up just under the threaded spindle on mine but can't
say for certain. There just seems to be an "oil slick" there
everyday too. Not an answer for you but at least you are not alone g
Tom (20279) |
| I experienced the
same problem with my Heavy 10 when rebuilding. I obtained 2 new cups
from Master Carr which matched in quality and thread size but were
just slightly bigger. The right one would just not clear the
headstock. This can be overcome by the use of a threaded (female to
male) adapter. This will give you about 1/4 inch more length when
attached to the oil cup. I never did find the exact size of oil cups
that originally came on the lathe. Even when trying to reuse an
original oil cup I found it hit the headstock. I found by simply
raising the cap on the cup to a vertical position and holding it
there while screwing the cup in that it would then clear the
headstock. This shortened the length of the cup just enough to clear
the headstock. In regard to oil levels in the cups, my left one
leaks down to just above the fill hole while the right one will leak
down to about 3/4 full. Ed (20281) |
| Installing
oilers |
| Does anyone know
the secret to installing those push-in type oilers on the horizontal
drive unit ? I just look at them cross-eyed and the little lids pop
off. They seem to be extremely flimsy. I've managed to destroy 2 of
them now and thought I'd ask before starting on number 3. any tips
appreciated Ed (26149) |
| Double check your
hole dia. with the oiler OD. They should just slide right in with a
couple light taps. Bob (26151) |
