| Carriage feed (Jan 3,
2003) |
Reversing (Aug 4, 2004) |
| SB 9A Feed questions (Apr
25, 2003) |
Reversing lever mod (Sep
1, 2004) |
| Interesting feed screw fix
(Apr 28, 2003) |
Reverse lever plate 9c
(Dec 13, 2004) |
| Longitudinal Feed Rates
(Nov 18, 2003) |
Power feed (Jan 13,
2005) |
| Screw feed rate modification
(Dec 11, 2003) |
Reversing a lineshaft driven
lathe (Feb 1, 2005) |
| Reversing old lathes (May
12, 2004) |
|
| |
| Carriage feed |
| What do I have to do fix my
carriage feed for turning. I engage the feed and it will start
moving and sometimes pops out. I have a 16" south bend serial 12645 HKX 15. I am new and need elementary education on these things.
Lenny (8467) |
| According
to your serial number, H = 16" swing, K = Quick change gearbox, X =
"Special" spindle and/or swing type. I am assuming that you have a
lever type apron clutch. I have attached a scan of the
maintenance/adjustment of this type of clutch. If you were having a
"sticky" clutch, I would say that you need to flush your clutch
(with kerosene). It couldn't hurt to do this anyway. Webb (8468) |
| I got the scan from
you Bill and tried to adjust clutch. Still won't stay in. I took the
handle off and if I wedge a screw in and apply some pressure it will
move. What next? Am I out of adjustment? The back side of the scan
you sent is supposed to be for replacing discs. Can you send that
one also?
(8602) |
| SB 9A Feed
questions |
| I couldn't find
this in the How to run books. When threading I know to use the half
nuts to move the carriage. When turning down stock should you engage
the feed lever to start the cut or engage it first then use the star
nut to start and stop carriage? Same ? for power cross feed also.
(10448) |
| The star knob
engages a clutch. This clutch feature is useful for turning up to a
shoulder. I engage the proper feed gear, longitudinal or crossfeed,
and then turn the clutch knob until the tool starts moving and maybe
a scoche more so it won't hesitate if the gibs are a bit tighter at
one end or the other. I keep one hand on the knob so I can quickly
disengage when the end of the cut is reached. If you come up to a
shoulder and are sleeping on the job the clutch should start
slipping and not ruin your part. I don't like to depend on this,
though. Some people have reported sticky clutch problems when the
apron has not been cleaned out or flushed with kerosene for 60
years. Make sure it all works as I described befor you start taking
a 1/2 diameter reducing cut on an expensive piece of metal. Glen
(10451) |
| Interesting
feed screw fix |
| My Model A was
built in 1952, so was old when I got it. Since I got the lathe, I
have manufactured about 2,000 parts that are 8" diameter, and faced
on 3 sides(!). One power feed pass to clean the casting and make a
datum surface, then the part is flipped on the vacuum chuck, and
faced. The first face is then refaced to assure plane/parallel to In
the course of this product manufacture, the power crossfeed has
therefore cycled more than 6,000 times at a slightly more than 4"
excursion. On E-Bay I got a screw and nut from a Model C. Upon
removing my crossfeed screw and comparing them I could only stare
dumbfounded. The very thread profile in the worn region did not
resemble an Acme screw, but rather something with a very thin
(-.008) form! So knowing the Model C had no power crossfeed I
reasoned that the wear could not be as bad, and it certainly is not.
So I intend to use the Model C screw to run the lathe so I can part
off the gear section from the Model A screw, and then bore the gear
to .441 and press and pin (Or silver solder it) the to correct
portion of the Model C shaft. Sounds like fun. I'll let you all know
how it works out. I may photograph the process and put it on my
site. The Model A screw assembly is a total loss, anyway, as there
is radial slop in the crank bearings! Otherwise, I would be trying
to rustle up a 12 tooth 20 pitch pinion. (10544) |
| I am good. 45
minutes, being careful, and it works great! One thing, though. I
confess to sweating bullets when I checked the bottom of the gear
teeth, that is the ID of the pitch circle. I only had .018 wall
after boring the .441. Whew. Drink Time. With my Foredom and a
slitting wheel, I put longitudinal grooves on the mounting surface
to insure silver solder flow, 6 equispaced .010 deep, approx. I heatsunk the screw to prevent annealing. So this fix was a piece of
cake. Without power crossfeed it appears the Model C screw was
nearly new it had a MUCH easier life than the one in my 1952 Model
A. (Or a lazier owner..haha.) Got a nut also. It amazed me how much
the Model A assembly rattled around when shaken...the original was
really, really beaten up. I wonder if the PO was machining ceramics
on it or something. (10545) |
| Longitudinal
Feed Rates |
| I recently acquired
a 9 inch junior model lathe to help me relearn the basics (which I
barely learned 20 years ago). I need help in determining/calculating
longitudinal feed rates to use for basic turning operations. The
brass gear chart on the machine only indicates the thread counts
produced by the various gear combinations, not the longitudinal
feeds. I appear to have the complete set of change gears, including
the 81/18 combination gear. Ralph (15070) |
| You need to start
with the pitch of the lead screw. The pitch is 1/tpi. This is the
feed for one turn of the screw. Now count the number of teeth on the
spindle and the number of teeth on the lead screw gear. The ratio is
then the number of turns the spindle will make for one turn of the
screw (assuming that there are NO compound gears in the train, only
idler gears). Example: 8 threads per inch screw is a 0.125 feed per
turn of the leadscrew. Given a 24 tooth spindle (I don't know what a
JR has) and a 104 tooth gear on the screw this requires 104/24 =
4.333333 turns of the spindle to move 0.125 inches or
1/4.33333*0.125 = 0.02885 inches per turn of the spindle. If you put
in the 81/18 compound gear, this is a 4.5:1 reduction and this would
give 0.0064" feed per turn of the spindle. I hope I have been clear
enough. I need to go through this every time I figure it out and I
am using gears that are on my 9" . However I have two compound gears
a 2:1 and a 7:1 In this case I take the basic spindle to lead screw
ratio 104/24 ( The idler gears don't count) and reduce the feed rate
by (1/2*1/7) 0.5*0.143 = 0.071 times the basic feed of 0.02885 =
0.002" per turn of the spindle. Jim B. (15071) |
| Screw feed rate
modification |
| I have a 1940ish 14-1/2" Engine Lathe and need to
modify the lathe feed rate to give obtain about 0.333 threads/inch
or lower (yes that is a pitch of 3"). The machine will not be
operating very fast. Any suggestions on how to modify and/or a
company to contact would be greatly appreciated. Discussions with
with South Bend and LeBlond Limited have not been successful. I
was expecting to modify the quick change gear box or the "end gear"
attached to the lead screw. Gerald (15534) |
| With great
care to not overload the gearing, etc, this type of work requires
driving the saddle **from the leadscrew**. Any screw cutting below
the leadscrew pitch must be accessed for this problem of over
straining the gear setup especially if using a QC box. For 3" P I
would definitely use a direct drive lathe (no QC). RichD (15538) |
| Rich, I have no choice but to use the current lathe. My max.
Saddle speed will be about 1/4"/second. If necessary it will go about
1/8"/second. I hope that is below any overload situation - will be
careful with it. I admit that I'm not a seasoned lathe operator
(yet) and do not follow your suggestion: the leadscrew**. I need the
saddle to be in-sync with the spindle; would this still happen?
Gerald (15542) |
| Gerald, but, it's
not the speed!!! It's the torque reaction. The feed gearing cannot
move the saddle under cutting load without enormous strain at large
pitches. In fact, I wonder if it will move at all! NO load. There is
another yahoo group that is involved in the building of a universal
cutter grinder. A feature, of which, is a column with a 1" pitch
thread. The original author/builder had to resort to leadscrew drive
even for that pitch. RichD (15543) |
| Reversing old
lathes |
| Lathes with
threaded spindles have an inherent danger related to reversing the
spindle. The chuck can unscrew from the spindle causing unpleasant
things to happen. Ill leave the things to your imagination. There
are techniques that can be used to allow opening the splitnut
without benefit of a threading dial. Those methods are mentioned in
some of the lathe manuals referred to in a recent post on the
subject. RC (18997) |
| Reversing |
I personally don't
believe in reversing a "screw nose" lathe. One need only have one
escaped chuck experience to be convinced that its a bad idea. I know
one old machinist who installed a pin arrangement in his 24" LeBlond
regal so he could reverse it without fear. The installation was
quite involved since that machine has a hard spindle. Most single
phase motors cant be "plugged" or reversed quickly although they
make special ones for that purpose. I'm not sure how they work. RC
(20332) |
| I thing the saving
grace for reversing a "screw nose" lathe is the use of a single
phase motor. Knowing that a 3 phase motor has greatly more starting
torque than a single phase motor I probably would never use reverse
as a brake on a 3 phase machine, especially if it was connected to a
real 3 phase line. As to how an instant reversing single phase motor
works, It is essentially like any other capacitor start motor except
it has a direction sensing centrifugal switch which disconnects the
appropriate starting winding depending on which direction the motor
is running. This keeps the opposite direction starting winding
connected so that when switch is thrown to the opposite direction
The start winding is energized until the motor reaches running speed
in the other direction. Wayne (20349) |
| Reversing lever
mod |
| Has anyone adapted
a plunger type reversing lever to a bolt type head on a 9 inch
lathe? Jim
(20733) |
| Sure have. You
need a 10K reversing unit (the 9 gears can be swapped to it). This
is just a swap one for the other. I have a drawing of the plate when
you are ready. RichD (20734) |
| Rich, thanks for
the quick answer and the kind offer of a drawing. I'll let you know
when I get ready. Jim (20741) |
| Reverse lever
plate 9c |
| I remember seeing a drawing to make a plate for mounting a
reverse lever on a sb 9 c. I did print it out but have since lost
the drawing. I've been trying to search archives files and photos,
but can't find it here. Can anyone steer me in the right direction
to that drawing again. Mike (22924) |
| Mike, RichD of this group has the drawing that you want. Might pull up the
members file and E-mail him. I made one from his drawing and its
slick. You'll be glad that you went to the effort for it. Jim (22944) |
| Thank you, that was exactly what I was looking
for. I converted my c to an a and this will be the final touch. I
wouldn't have done it without this forum. I have to thank all the
knowledgeable people here that share such good information. I just
got a Clausing 8520 mill to go with my sb. These are two great
machines to work with. Mike
(23009) |
| Power feed |
| I have a quandary
with my 10L. It will longitudinally feed with the thread gears, but
will not feed using the clutch. Tightening up the star handle for
the clutch does not seem to do anything. I did remove the carriage
and apron when I disassembled it to bring it home, but caught the
key and reinstalled it when I ran the carriage back on.
Brian
(23940) |
| There is a key in
between the lead screw and the gear in the apron - I would make sure
that isn't missing. (23947) |
| Kevin, Yup, it fell
out when I was disassembling for transport, but I put it back in
when I got it home and put it back together. Is there anyway that
thing will fit in there and everything run except the feed and the
key not be in properly? It has those two ears on the ends.
Brian
(23950) |
| I can't think of a
way you could get the key in there incorrectly but it's been a while
since I have had the apron off. Have you looked at the parts
diagram? Kevin (23963) |
| Brian, Did you get
this resolved? If not, maybe if you provided more info. When you say
it doesn't feed, where is the stoppage? Can you shift the long/cross
feed lever up and down to engage? Does one work and not the other?
With the lathe off, does tightening the star wheel lock or at least
impede movement of the engaged feed? With the lathe off and a feed
engaged, does the star wheel turn when you move the engaged axis?
The idea is to find where the stoppage is. If you can't engage the
feeds, then the half nut/power feed interlock may have come adrift.
If the star wheel spins with movement of the engaged axis, then the
feed clutch or the worm gear are the problem. If tightening the star
wheel constricts movement, then your clutch is at least partially
working and your issue is still in the worm gear drive. You could
try spinning the lead screw by hand (lathe off, tumbler lever in
neutral) while looking behind the apron- I think you can see the end
of the worm gear and verify it is turning. I would look at my 10L
but it's really cold in the garage now. I could be wrong about the
star wheel turning while the power feed is engaged- I remember this
is the case from my misspent youth but my present lathe has the lever
clutch. Even so, the rest of the tests should work. The idea is to
work back from both ends and identify where your motion is
disappearing. If you find something new or figure it out, please
keep us posted. Everyone loves a mystery. Bill
(23964) |
| Yes, Kevin, I have
the parts book. I guess I need to pull the apron and have a look
inside. Brian
(23977) |
| Bill,
the star wheel does not turn at all with the lathe running, even
with the threading gears engaged. It seems to tighten up when you
turn it clockwise, but it is not having any effect. Both levers move
up and down through all three positions just fine. Brian
(23978) |
| There may be
something missing in the apron, but lets just get all this straight.
Threading is done by engaging the half-nuts, that's the lever on the
right of the apron. It only has two positions, open or closed,
disengaged or engaged, off or on, etc., and in this case should
remain disengaged, open or off. Feeding is done by means of the feed
selector which is in the middle of the apron and has three
positions, cross feed, neutral, and longitudinal feed, with a pin to
positively engage the lever on one of the three positions. The feed
clutch is a star-wheel at the bottom of the apron that engages the
clutch by tightening it clockwise, (righty-tighty, lefty-loosey).
Finally, there is a feed reverse lever at the left side of the
head-stock with three positions, forward, neutral and reverse. In
order to have the feed on, the the feed reverse lever at the left of
the head-stock must be either fully up or fully down, the levers in
the QC gear-box must be fully engaged which will result in the
lead-screw turning when the lathe spindle is turning. Then, the feed
select lever on the apron must be either fully up or fully down and
the clutch star-wheel tightened. At that point the star-wheel should
be turning as well as the feed when the lathe is on. If that isn't
the case, the apron is missing some clutch discs or an intermediate
gear. Roy (23982) |
| Words are a poor
substitute for direct vision. Got to:
http://www.zetagraphics.com/shop/sbparts/sbparts.html
and open file 910D for a PDF of the 10L apron. Also check out:
http://www.swayzephoto.com/lathe/index11.html These pics are of a
larger lathe but the parts are similar. Where the drawing is
confusing, the picture helps. On the 10L PDF, the worm gear 16
drives the roller 4. The roller is also the outside hub for your
feed clutch. When engaged, the clutch locks the roller 4 to the
small gear 1. 1 and 4 are coaxial with the star wheel 48. The feed
lever 37 controls the position of gear 36 by rotating the eccentric
shaft 35. Gear 36 is always engaged with the inner clutch gear 4.
Lifting lever 37 engages gear 36 with gear 20, driving pinion 32.
The pinion meshes with the rack on the bed and provides long axis
travel. Gear 20 is also constantly engaged with gear 33- the
handwheel gear. Dropping lever 37 engages gear 36 with gear 22. 22
drives 23 which stands proud of the apron and drives the cross feed
screw. Notice the notch in the "near" side of part 35? This notch
aligns with the tip of part 50 when the feed lever is in neutral.
Engaging the half nut drives part 50 forward into the notch, locking
the feed lever. Conversely, when the feed is engaged, lever 50 can't
move forward so the half nut can't close. For reference, in the
third picture down on the left side, you can clearly see the half
nut holder above and left of lever 50 (much different shape here).
Center gear 4 below worm gear. The fabled gear 37 is behind the
worm. Upper left is the small drive pinion 32 in front of gear 20.
The handwheel gear 33 is at the lower right. Not installed are gears
22 and 23- the hole above the left worm saddle is for their shaft.
Simple, Eh? From what you describe, I would guess that gear 36 has
somehow come loose from shaft 35. Just a guess, though.
Bill
(23983) |
| That
sounds about right. The only way I can get the feed to work at all
is to thread at what? 224 TPI?, which makes for a really slow feed.
The star wheel does not turn, and the lathe will not feed no matter
what the setting of the levers unless I make the lathe think it is
threading. Sounds like clutch problems. Brian
(23988) |
| I had a similar
problem with my 9". The only way that I could get the apron to
advance at all was to engage the half nuts. I could not even get the
crosslide to work under power. I took the whole apron apart, cleaned
it up and found that the clutch was frozen. What turned out to be
the culprit at least I think it was was a little spring that spreads
out two half disks against the clutch itself. It was badly worn, or
disfigured or possible that somebody tried to bend it back to shape.
I cleaned up the apron and reinstalled the bad spring while I was
waiting for a part from Rose and it kind of worked, but not great.
The minute I fully replaced the spring with a new one, I was off to
the races. The clutch engaged, disengaged with a minute turn of the
star shaped wheel. In fact somebody with a 10" lathe was amazed at
how little turning force was necessary to engage and disengage the
clutch. Mark
(23989) |
| The star wheel is
the clutch control. It doesn't turn unless you turn it. Do you mean
it is frozen? (23992) |
| On the 10L and
larger lathes, the star knob also turns (rotates) when the clutch is
engaged and turning (with the turning of the leadscrew). The long
screw on which the star knob is threaded has a pin that engages a
slot on the clutch sleeve. When the clutch sleeve turns, that long
screw turns with it and so does the star knob. Arne (23997) |
| Ed, From
what I'm reading here, it should turn while feeding with the clutch
engaged. It is not doing that, as it will not feed. The only way I
can advance the saddle is to engage the thread function. The wheel
turns freely, it is just apparently not doing anything. Brian
(24001) |
| Arne, we
had a 10L and a 13 SB in our shop and I "remembered" the knobs
turning. I took a quick look at the zetagraphics page 9A/10K apron
and it is an entirely different beast. So I'm not completely senile
yet. That was 25 years ago. Bill (24004) |
| Brian, Per Arne's
point- the star wheel shaft is keyed/pinned to the driven clutch
feed gear. In other words, any time you have the cross or long feed
engaged, the star wheel should turn when that axis moves. Engage the
cross feed then turn the cross feed handle- the star knob should
turn as well. The only time the star knob should turn freely is when
the feed lever is in neutral and the clutch is very loose. By your
description, either the pin/key Arne describes is gone and you can't
tighten the clutch, the star knob is stripped, or the feed gear
controlled by the feed lever isn't engaging correctly. Earlier I
suggested the gear train as the issue since I thought it would be
most likely to be upset removing the apron. Now I would expect the
key/pin or star wheel threads. I doubt this issue was caused by
taking the apron off- probably broken before. Looking at the
zetagraphics parts list, the clutch system on the 9A/10K is very
different from the larger machines. I would not assume that a fix
for one applies to the other. Bill (24006) |
| I am also having
problems with the clutch on my 9A. Whatever position the handle is
in up or down only the longitudinal feed works with the half nuts
closed, and the clutch does nothing. I have removed the apron from
the lathe, and striped it down so that all that remains is the
clutch assembly which I cant work out how to remove. On the front of
the assembly there is a slotted screw that holds the star wheel in
place. I can only turn this about two turns. I looked at the parts
diagram and it looks like this screw, screws into a sleeve, and the
center shaft of the clutch screws in the other end. How do I take
this assembly apart, and how springy is the little spring spreads
the half disks supposed to be ? Nick (24097) |
| That is a left hand
thread screw. (24102) |
| The screw you are
referring to I think is the only left hand thread on the entire
lathe. It holds that wheel on a shaft. the end of the shaft has two
notches into which the two clutch plates sit in. As for springyness,
it is not a coiled spring, but rather a piece of wire that fits
around the clutch plates. I know that a new one really helped me.
Take a picture of how it fits around the clutch plates, without it
it is difficult to visualize how it fits. I got mine from Rose at
Partworks. Mark
(24104) |
| Nick, "Whatever
position the handle is in up or down only the longitudinal feed
works with the half nuts closed, and the clutch does nothing." I am
not sure I am reading you right. Are you engaging the half nuts
while trying to use the power feeds? You're NEVER supposed to engage
the half nuts when using the power longitudinal or cross feeds!
There is supposed to be a lock-out between the half nuts lever and
the lever that controls longitudinal and cross feed so you can't use
both at the same time. It is a pin in the apron casting that floats
back and forth between the half nuts lever and the "shifter"
(connected to the shift lever above the clutch). There are notches
in both of these parts and the pin is just long enough so that when
one of the levers is engaged, the pin is pushed into the notch of
the other; preventing it from moving (locked out). Webb (24116) |
| Webb, Unfortunately you are (sort of) reading
me right. I never engaged the half nuts while the lathe motor was
turning, but engaging the half nuts was the only way to get any of
the feeds to work. I have traced the problem to the outside of the
half nut cam being damaged (the previous owner must have hit it with
a sledge hammer). You can see that here: http://
www.matterpd.com/shop/southbend/apron/
I still am not able to undo the screw on the star handle (30 and 31
in the exploded view at the bottom of of the page), although
somehow, and I don't know how I have managed to get something to
move so that part of part 19 is now poking out the front of the
apron. It looks like part 24 also screws into part 19, but since
there is nothing to grab hold of I don't know how I would unscrew
that. Any help would be really appreciated here, as the internal
spring 20 doesn't appear to be very strong and I guess that might be
part of the problem. Nick (24134) |
| I think that the
screw is left hand and the star is a right hand thread. I have a heavy
ten clutch in my hand. Tighten the star and loosen the screw. Then
loosen the star. (24138) |
| Nick, From the
pictures, it looks to me that someone tried to force the half nuts
lever over the lock-out pin (part no: 44 in the drawing). I would
check to see it that pin is damaged. That pin should be free to
slide back and forth in the hole in the casting. If it is bent and
jammed in the hole, it may be blocking the shifter from moving. Does
the shifter lever move up and down all the way to its detents? As
others have mentioned, the star clutch knob retaining screw (part
no: 30) is left hand thread. The clutch knob (part no: 37) is right
hand threaded onto the shaft (part no: 24). You may have to
reinstall the worm and its lock ring in order to stop the worm gear,
clutch and shaft assembly from turning when unscrewing the screw.
Also you will have to tighten the star clutch knob too. that should
lock the shaft so that you can get the screw out. Webb (24139) |
| I have a 13inch SB
that is having a similar power feed problem. The star wheel will not
engage the clutch. The interlock between the half nut lever and the
power feed is working but the clutch will only randomly engage. The
star wheel turns freely when it does not engage. I see that the
13inch has a different clutch with plates instead of two shoes like
the 9inch and 10 inch. Has anyone had a similar problem and found a
solution? Chip
(24190) |
| Chip. When I first
got my 13" SB the power feed acted very sticky and it would engage
then not engage , and sometimes at the worst time it would not disengage it was just cruded up and by draining the oil and flushing it
out with Kero a couple times it started working great. Just a
thought? Now mine is the lever engage and not the wheel however
inside I think they are the same? Dee (24191) |
| Reversing a
lineshaft driven lathe |
| I was wondering when SB's where
driven by lineshafts how did they reverse the feed when they
finished a cut? Now we have the drum switches on electric motors but
how did they do it pre-electric motors? Did they just slacken the
drive belt to stop the drive? Rick (24508) |
| I remember seeing
this, but I don't remember where. There is a main source of power.
It drives shafts that run through the shop. The shafts have pulleys
with individual belts going to each machine. Now these drive pulleys
can be reversed with some sort of a clutch mechanism. I remember
seeing something like dogs moved in and out with a wooden "fork"
like stick. As I remember you were supposed to relax the belt before
doing this. For the life of me I cant remember where I saw this. Jim
B.(24524) |
| The "fork"
straddles a sleeve which is rounded on both ends. When the sleeve is
pushed one way the rounded end pushes against the fingers of a pair
of brake like clutch pads which run inside one of a pair of flat
belt pulleys. When pushed the other way it engages the fingers on
the pulley on the other side while disengaging the first one. (In
other words, the sleeve and fork slides on the shaft between a pair
of flat belt pulleys, one on the right and one on the left.) The
trick is that one belt is twisted to reverse the direction. Thus by
engaging one or the other of the two flat pulleys you can change
direction. (24525) |
| Try the HTRAL.
Also if you ever get a chance to go to the Henry Ford
Museum/Greenfield Village in Dearborn there are a couple of shops
still running lineshafts. The sliding dog engages the pulleys.
Reverse is accomplished twisting one of the two belts that drive an
intermediate or lay shaft with the cone pulley. The intermediate
shaft is on an eccentric mount that relaxes belts for both reversing
or changing lathe speed (cone pulley set) (24526) |
| Given the time it
would take to reverse the lathe due to inertia. I would guess you
have to develop a "feel" for when to the reverse the lineshaft?
Rick (24528) |
| Ok, another
lineshaft question, if a belt off of the mainshaft breaks, do they
shut down the whole shop or fix it while in motion? Rick (24530) |
| Just after Army
service in 1959, while looking around for a better job, for a few
months I worked in Ewart Chain Belt in Derby, England. They made
MASSIVE chain belts, like big bike chains, for use in the mining
industry. I worked a six bank horizontal drilling machine, drilling
the cotter hole in the link pins. If the lineshaft belt broke, we
fixed it without the rest of the line stopping. You just shift it
over to the free wheel pulley with the fork and get on with it, no
danger. If it flew right off, a maintenance man brought pole with a
sort of clevis on the top and a gripper handle at the bottom (bit
like a long handled pruner), and flopped it back over. The belts
BTW, were thick braided canvas looking stuff, which we dressed twice
a day with rosin in a cardboard tube. The tube wore away as the
rosin was used up. Len (24531) |
| Interesting stuff,
must have been a racket with all the belts going in a lineshaft
shop. Rick (24533) |
| And the 50 ton
presses that cut and joggled the link sides from bar, some as much
as 1" thick! The ground shook and before the days of "health and
safety" so no ear defenders etc. Len (24550) |
