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Lathe - Rests

  
 

 

 
 
Steady Rest Casting Kit (Nov 2, 2001) Ball bearing steady rest (Dec 7, 2003)
Follow steady rests (Jan 13, 2002) Follower Rest (Dec 15, 2003)
Dimensions of 9" Lathe-Steady Rest (May 25, 2002) Steady rest base width for 13" SBL (Apr 6, 2004)
10K Steady Rest Saga (Jul 22, 2002) Follower rest ID (Apr 23, 2004)
Heavy 10 or 13 Follow Rest dimensions? (Dec 22, 2002) Jaw replacement telescoping heavyrest (Apr 29, 2004)
Steady/follower rest for a working lathe? (Dec 30, 2002) 10K telescoping steady rest parts (Jun 1, 2004)
Steady Rest (Jan 18, 2003) Steady rest 10L (Jun 6, 2004)
Steady Rest ID mystery? (Jun 1, 2003) Steady Rest (Jul 25, 2004)
10" Rests - All The Same? (Jun 17, 2003) Steady rest model numbers? (Sep 8, 2004)
What does this follower rest go to? (Jul 7, 2003) Steady rest Follower rest ID by Part#? (Oct 18, 2004)
13" steady question (Oct 21, 2003) SB 9" Traveling Steady (Nov 3, 2004)
Telescopic rest question (Oct 24, 2003) Help identifying steady rest? (Dec 14, 2004)
 
Steady Rest Casting Kit
Here are some pictures of the steady rest I made: http://home.nc.rr.com/jstaylor/steady.htm This one is for my Atlas lathe, but the castings were designed for South Bends. JT (2056)
 Thanks for sharing the pictures with us. Looks like a really useful addition to your lathe. Nice job of machining. Would you say that this steady is more useful for larger ODs rather than smaller ones? Paul R. (2057)
So far I've used it at 4" diameter and at 1.5" diameter and it has been great. I don't see why it wouldn't work just fine down to 1/2" or so. I can't think of any drawback to having a large capacity, even when working with small stock. Jeff (2058)
My concern would be that it might be less rigid than something relatively small - the fingers extend a long ways to grab 1/2" bar. But then I managed to stop whipping of 3/8" bar yesterday by drilling a hole in a piece of UHMW plastic and clamping it to a base I'd already made for my defunct scratchbuild steady project. Chris (2059)
Nice job! I hope to make one for my SB 10K someday. What is the quality of the castings you received? Inclusions, voids, etc? Raymond (2060)
I don't have much experience with castings, but these seem to be excellent. I found zero voids big enough to see by eye and the metal appears very homogeneous. JT (2061)
Follow steady rests
Has anybody used both styles of follower and steady rests offered by South Bend? I am keeping an eye out for one of each at the right price? I am curious if anyone can substantiate (with experience) which of the styles, telescoping style or sliding guide style, is the better functioning arrangement. Mark (2701)
The telescoping are much nicer but also much rarer and costlier. JWE (2705)
While we are at it, does anyone know what the fair price is for used rests in good condition? (2711)
As someone already mentioned the telescoping ones are most elegant in their construction, and a bit heavier. The sliding type however give you the ability to feel the pressure you are applying to the part as you set up the rest. There is something to be said for that. I'm looking for a follower for my 9" Model B right now and I want the sliding finger type. You can remove the fingers and install a piece of stock with a hole in it for things that you do regularly. RC (2712)
Michael, I have a sliding type steady rest (9" S. B.) I bought on e-Bay only to discover it didn't fit my lathe bed. It might fit yours. I'd like to get back close to what I've got into it. Figure out what a fair price is we'll see if it's close. I don't know if I paid a fair price or too much (most likely too much). I saw it, I needed it, I bought it, then I learned about differences in lathe bed widths. Rick (2713)
I hope you don't actually have a 9"sb, 'cause that is what I have. Is the one you have a sb product? What did you pay for it? Michael (2715)
Dimensions of 9" Lathe-Steady Rest
I got a micrometer Steady Rest, thinking it would fit my SB Heavy 10. Too narrow, I'm thinking it fits a 9" machine. Can someone give me the dimensions of their 9" or 10K" steady rest base so I can verify? Anyone have a Heavy 10 Micrometer rest they want to trade for the 9"? Otherwise the 9" might go up on eBay. Marty (4316)
Marty, I don't have a SB steady rest but have a SB 10K lathe and I modified a Logan steady rest to fit it. (it only took a .10" x 45 degree chamfer to fit the near side vee way. I'd be happy to measure the 'center to center' dimension between the vee ways and the height of the vee way for you. Are there any other dimensions that you need? (4322)
10K Steady Rest Saga
When I bought my SB 10K (light 10") it didn't come with a steady or a follow rest. The supply of unattached 10K rests is pretty non- existent. Those that ever do come available, cost about as much as another machine! When an import 12" steady jumped out at me at a local yard sale for next to nothing, I figured I had nothing to lose but time on this project. One of my concerns was milling the "V" notch for the way guide. It looked like some odd angle; just an optical illusion, it's 90 degrees. Another concern was how to connect it back up after cutting an inch off. It's some kind of cheap cast steel. I tried brazing; it didn't like that. Since the TIG was under the pile of another project I MIGed it, I had to weld up a back plate I cut too deep for a new chuck anyway (another saga). It looks like it may actually turn out usable. I would post some pictures but there are so many HUGE Photos already, our 30 Meg bandwidth is all used up! Dean Q (5292)
How 'bout throwing them in the files section for now. It says we are using: 16594 Kb used of 20480 Kb total There should be room for you pictures there, and I'm interested in seeing how it turned out. Paul R. (5293)
I finished painting it and put it all together! I posted some pictures in the Files section if anyone wants to look. Dean Q(5304)
That looks great, Dean! Its beefy, and its beautiful. You've given me new hope for a steady rest for my 9" SBL. You said you MIG'ed it? I've been learning on a 220 Amp AC stick welder. Do folks think I would be successful doing this type of conversion with nickel rods? I'll bet an off-brand odd-sized steady would be easier to find than a SB. Paul R. (5305)
Paul, I agree, Dan did a very nice job on the steady rest. I have had good luck welding cast iron with an AC "stick" welder, but you really need to pre and post heat. If you build yourself a little positioning fixture (nothing fancy...maybe just a couple of bricks) so that you can quickly position the two pieces to be welded, then put the pieces in an oven and heat them to about 350-400 degrees F, locate the pieces, weld with nickel rod and put them back in the oven before they cool down. leave them in the oven, at temperature for another two hours, then shut off the oven and leave the weldment in the oven till it gets back down to room temp. Another approach I have used successfully is to sit the pieces, in the position they are to be welded, on a hot plate (go to the local thrift store and pick one up for a few bucks, they come in handy for lots of things) and turn it on and let the pieces get up to temp. Make the welds, leave it at temp for a few hours then turn off the hot plate but leave the welment in place and cover it with a large cardboard box to retard the cooling. Note, if you share your kitchen with SWMBO, I'd suggest the latter approach! Mario (5310)
There is some rod on the market now that allows you to get away from all pre heating, you actually just do the normal prep work and go, and you also keep the work area from getting too warm. the company is UTP WELDING MATERIALS tech line 1 (800) 527-0791 its worth checking out. scott (5312)
Cast iron should be brazed. JWE (5314)
Yes cast can be brazed, take a trip down to your local welding outlet they can set you up with some great cast rods. scott(5315)
Welding CI can be a real pain. The heat of welding tends to create white iron at the edge of the heat effected zone. Welds often crack not at the weld, but at the boundary. Using lots of preheat, short beads, and peening the weld helps. Whenever possible, brazing tends to produce a better job without all the hassle of having to do a short bead, peen, wait a few minutes, so another short (1/2 inch or so) bead, peen, twiddle thumbs.... all while maintaining a high preheat. It's amazing how darn hot it is working around a few pound hunk of CI being held at 600F for an hour. I still preheat to braze although many folks say it isn't needed, but when brazing, simply putting the grill rack low over a hot bed of coals and setting the part on the rack is adequate. With all that said, some folks have the most amazing luck welding CI, simply running a MIG bead down the work with no preheat and somehow getting a good result. Some folks even have managed to pull of using an arc welder with CI rod and no preheat, or so they say. If those welds will be in one piece 10 years from now isn't something I'd want to bet on. Stan (5321)
To the misbelievers of cold welding cast iron http://www.btwusa.com/html/utp_4.html#CastIron  check this out and then let us know what you think, tried it many times works great no problems. scott (5324)
I'm not a metallurgist or a structural analyst, but this is my guess at what's going on here. The reason cast iron cracks when welded cold is that when the molten metal cools, it shrinks. As it shrinks it develops 'residual tensile stresses' or 'internal stresses'...kind of like a tug of war across the heat effected zone, or weld joint. Generally, I suspect the filler metal has a higher tensile strength than the cast iron and the cast iron has a low elongation (the amount the material will yield or stretch when it's tensile strength is exceeded, before it breaks). Because the cast iron is weaker than the filler material, the filler material wins the tug of war and the cast iron starts to stretch, but since it can't stretch very far before breaking (low elongation) it cracks! It looks like the approach they are using with this "cold" rod is to use a material that has a very high elongation (but a correspondingly low tensile strength). This way, when the tug of war starts as the weld begins to cool, because the filler has a lower strength, the cast iron "wins" and the filler material starts to stretch. Since the filler rod has such a high elongation it can stretch enough to accommodate the shrinkage without cracking. Of course, in keeping with the "no free lunch" theorem, because of the filler material's lower strength, the joint is ...you guessed it...lower strength. Of course it's probably adequate in most cases. Does anyone see any flaw in this logic, or shed any more light on it? Mario (5326)
From my understanding of the problem, Cast Iron has a high carbon content. Carbon is the element that makes steel hardenable. The high and localized heat needed to weld up Cast Iron when rapidly cooled (relatively), makes the metal hard and brittle. Thus is cracks. This might be off base or an over simplification of what's happening. From what I remember, you need to preheat Cast Iron to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Then weld it. After welding it, it cooling process must be prolonged, like over night or the next day. Usually the part is packed in lime to slow down the cooling. I think the place in Spring Mills Pa has a cast iron part to make Steady Rest for the SB lathes. Other metals have the same problem, and TIG or MIGed parts of high carbon content usually need some pre heat to them. Tom (5327)
Here are words from my welding book :UTP electrodes together with the UTP cold welding system give welded joints a higher strength than the parent metal. now that I have that out of my hair, I guess the bottom line is if it works for you use it. (5337)
Scott; Thanks for the link! I haven't used their products, have to get a hold of some rods and try it out, sure would be nice to have a easy way to weld CI. Have you used their O/A rod by any chance? I still would prefer to avoid the higher temps of arc when doing CI if possible. Stan (5352)
Stan: I have welded a couple of engine blocks with it and the funny thing is my last project with it was welding my steady rest for my 9" lathe. The steady that came with my lathe was for a later model 9", I have a 1928 junior the bed is wider, so I had to cut the v section out and move it over and weld it back on. There is some post heating involved but it is nice stuff to work with. scott (5364)
Heavy 10 or 13 Follow Rest dimensions?
I bought a follow rest on eBay that was supposedly for a 13" lathe (what I own). I just tried to use it the other night and although the holes lined up, the center of the follow rest was too low (plus there was interference between the lower adjustment knob and my cross slide) I suspect that the follow rest is actually for a heavy 10 and not a 13. If someone has one, could you please measure the distance from the mounting holes (imagine a straight line between them) to the "center" where the jaws meet? I measure somewhere around 5" on mine. If this is indeed a Heavy 10 part, it will go back up on eBay (after I check with a couple of friends and the folks on this board) Jeff (8210)
I would be interested in purchasing the follower rest if it is for a heavy 10. Wallace (8212)
I just went through a similar situation, with a follower rest. I got one from one of the used machinery dealers, for my 9" B model. The center of the follower was 1/2" above and 1/2" to the back of the lathe centerline. It appears to have been for a heavy 10.The thing that I thought might interest you is that the bolt centers are the same. The follower bolts right up on the 9" lathe. Hope you are able to find one for your 13. RC (8213)
I measure about 4.5". I measured the Vertical line originating at the center of the follower brass jaws that is perpendicular to the line between the center of the two holes that mount to cross-slide. Distance between those holes looks to be 1.25". My follower is from a heavy 10 (aka 10L). (8215)
Jeff, I measure about 4/5/8" from the approximate center to the center of each bolt hole. Mine is a heavy 10 has the # PT120R1 on the main frame casting. The "R" indicates heavy 10. The 13" should have a "T" in place of the "R". Bill (8217)
Now I'm really confused. First, here's the link to the auction (it's still up from November (?)): http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1782462913 The dimension is definitely 5" on mine, and the hole spacing is 2-5/8". The stamp on the casting is 'MCL-490" I'm now beginning to suspect it's not a South Bend part, but that of another lathe. I've checked my parts list and although its a telescoping jaw follower rest, the parts look a little different. Might this be for a Logan lathe? I hope I'm not out $150. Jeff (8218)
Well, it MIGHT, but it was definitely not made BY Logan. Scott Logan (8219)
Jeff I looked and it sure do not look like any SB one I am used to. Attached is a picture of a SB 9" follower and the heavy 10 one looks just like it. JWE(8220)
I don't believe that's a south bend follower. The body shape is different, and it has locknuts instead of setscrews to lock the jaws in place. Send the pics to Scott Logan, he should know if its a Logan. The follower for the 9" workshop SBL fits perfectly on the Logan 9B lathe. This should serve to further cloud the issue. When I discovered that fact I called Scott, and asked if it was intentional. He said it was not. That makes it an extremely precise coincidence. RC (8221)
I spoke with Scott (and saw his message) and it's definitely not a Logan either. The coincidence here is that the mounting hole spacing is perfect for my 13". I imagine that's why the folks who sold it billed it as a SB part. I'm pretty convinced that it's and OEM part for some machine, mostly because of the quality of the casting and the paint color. There are no other markings besides the "MCL-490" cast into the frame. I think I'll post a message on the Chaski board and see what bubbles to the surface Jeff (8226)
Jeff I got into this topic a little late but you should be able to measure from the area that sits on the way and to center line on the follow and determine what you have as far as height goes. I think that it probably is a universal type follow and supposed to fit Logan, South Bend, etc. I looked at the pic in the auction, did you get the part that sits on the way or how does it attach to the machine? Clint (8228)
I have heard that some tooling is interchangeable between Logan and South Bend, this may be a universal follow and that is how the seller was able to say for SB I think the question here, unless I am missing something is, is it for a 10" or a 13" ? Is this not correct? Clint (8229)
Clint; This is a follow rather than steady rest. The bolt hole and slot allow the part to be mounted to the flats on the side of the carriage. Follow rests are often used when having to deal with stock thin enough to deflect from the cutting force. Follower rests have two rather than three fingers, usually one directly opposite of the tool tip and one overhead to keep the work from riding up on the tool. Stan (8232)
Time to put this one to bed. I posted a message on the Chaski board, and it was ID'd as a Rockwell-Delta lathe part. I've had several people express interest in buying it, and I'll be glad to take what I paid for it, which is $150. Aside from some chipped paint and a little grime, it's in mint condition. Not a hint of wear on the jaws. Any questions, or if you want more pictures, let me know. I'm going out of town for a week, but when if I get back and I have no takers I'll put it back up on eBay. Jeff (8236)
Steady/follower rest for a working lathe?
Anyone know where I can get a steady rest and maybe a follower rest for a 9" workshop for a reasonable price? I don't care if they're factory SBL parts or not. Everything I see going on Ebay is kinda psycho amounts of money. A recent set on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=1272item=3101819075rd=1 went for $400, which is _way_ more than I want to spend. Or is there some reason that these things seem to require an arm a leg? Mark (8351)
Have you checked out Andy's castings at http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/  yet? Beyond that, perhaps Plaza or Sobel. If you think a steady and follower are pricey, just try to find an original milling attachment. I'm guessing part of the price is because it's a challenge to machine your own. I'm personally thinking if I would make the V on the bottom first and get it to bolt to the bed, and then use the headstock center to mark the exact center for locating the plungers, in that order of operation, it ought not be so painful... Someone was telling me that Andy at the above link has a local shop that will machine the casting for you at a very reasonable price and that they do excellent work. (8353)
Nope, hadn't see those yet. How much machining is necessary to finish the various projects? The steady rest would be a neat addition, as would the indicator/saddle stop and cross slide. Are all the parts included and just machining required to finish? Or do you need to also source bolts, etc. Mark (8354)
I think Plaza has them. I bought a steady rest from Plaza for my 10k. Not SB but very nice. Frank (8355)
Do these folks have a website or something? A quick search via Google didn't turn anything up. Mark (8356)
No, Joe does not have a web site, and frankly is unlikely to, but he is very helpful. Plaza Machinery Co. Bergamo, Joe PO Box 14 Bethel, VT 05032-0014 Bus: (802) 234-9673 Bus Fax: +1 (802) 234-6325 E-mail: plaza@i... Scott Logan (8357)
Scott, Do you know what the weight is of a Southbend 10'' pedestal lathe? Because my uncle has one from 1946, he just like to know ! (8358)
According to my 1963 catalog, the 10" Floor Leg Model (non cabinet model) ranged from 940 lbs crated to 1000 lbs crated depending on bed length. Scott Logan (8360)
www.angelfire.com/vt2/plaza/ They must have just got this up and running because I never knew they had a site till today either. No inventory listings on it though. Lurch (8378)
Scott Thanks my uncle is very pleased with the answer! (8389)
I'm in the same boat and have been looking for alternatives. One promising thought was that you can buy a cheap steady rest for one of those 7x10 imported lathes from Harbor Freight for $25, make a base for it to sit on at the correct height, maybe put some screw adjustment on it to center it crosswise and away you go. The only downside is that the capacity of the steady rest looks like it is really small. But who knows. Pat (8582)
Steady Rest
I have a SouthBend steady rest with the # 126NR1. This is just a bit to large for a 9". Could this be for a heavy 10 ? Bill (8748)
The numbers you mentioned, 126NR1 I assume are on the upper casting. You need to find the casting numbers off the base. The upper casting is the same for the nine inch, the 10K and the Heavy Ten. If you can't read them, you can determine thusly: If it is too high for you nine inch, then it is for either a 10K or the Heavy Ten. If the base fits you bedways, then it is for the 10K. If the base fits a wider bed, then it is for the Heavy Ten. Some later steady rests will have a Unit Code stamped on the bottom next to the inverted "Vee" way. If you have that or a casting number off the base, look at the suffix letter (N = nine inch, K = 10K, R = Heavy Ten). Webb (8750)
The "NR" in the part number suggests 9" Junior, which uses a heavier bed than the 9" A, B, C models we're more familiar with. Can anybody verify this? Does anybody have the parts lists for the 9" Junior? Anthony (8763)
Steady Rest ID mystery?
I have a steady rest of unknown origin. The big clue to ID may be that it appears to have had a sub-base with key (all missing) like a tailstock does, otherwise the bottom would fit up to an 8" spindle height. NOT! If it does normally have a sub-base then a 9 or 10" swing lathe would be a match. It does not appear to be Atlas, but more like early SB. It is well made with fine knurled clamp and adjustment screws and round brass steady rods. No ID marks are evident. I will place a picture in the files section in a folder "Steady". Does anyone recollect this type of steady rest and what manuf? RichD (11672)
Well, the files and photos sections are slap full! So, there is a new Album "SteadyRestID" in our adjunct group : http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/  RichD (11673)
Many of the Asian-made machines are equipped with steadies as you describe. RichD (11674)
Doesn't look like any of the SBL steady rests I've seen. That offset pattern is also somewhat unique. Definitely an odd one. RC
(11678)
10" Rests - All The Same?
Is a 10" steady/follower rest for a 10K the same as one for a 10L? You see them on eBay from time-to-time, but they often just say that they're for a 10" - no more than that. Wallace (12056)
No they are not the same. If in doubt ask for the code number off the unit. If it ends in R (ex: SR102R) then it is for a heavy 10". If it ends in K then it is for a light 10". Rose Marvin (12057)
Rose, I have a steady rest as well. There is no code number stamped anywhere, but the castings have cast in numbers 10-326B and 10-326T. Can you tell me which model lathe this fits? RichD (12058)
Rich- I have never seen those numbers before. My first guess is that the T stands for top and the B for base. I will try to find something that shows those numbers. If the steady rest was made by South Bend then the code number should be stamped right by the v-notch on the base. Rose Marvin (12061)
There are a lot of knock-off steady rests on the market. Usually they are made using the original SB castings as a pattern, so are slightly smaller than the originals. Frank (12063)
Rose, I found out it's an Atlas 10" product. Rich (12064)
What does this follower rest go to?
Anybody recognize this?: http://www.wallyblackburn.com/mystery_rest Wallace (12553)
Known as a follower rest and bolts on the headstock side of the crosslide. (12554)
Wally, I would vote for the 9". Yours has a stamping FLR-101N. My heavy 10" telescoping follower rest has the stamping FLR-101R. "R" is the designation for the 10", and "N" is the 9" in the South Bend numbering scheme. Following the same theme mine has a casting mark of PT120R1, while yours is PT120N1, again following the above R and N identification. Frank  (12555)
It fits a 9" South Bend lathe. Rose Marvin (12559)
That is for a 9" South Bend. I just purchased one off of ebay for $175 (ouch) and it is identical. (12560)
13" steady question
Could someone with a 13" SB pleas measure their steady rest and tell me the distance from the center of the V notch to the center of the flat foot on the bottom? walt (14537)
4 13/16 Center of V Notch to Center of Flat Leg on 1960's vintage machine. Ron (14539)
Telescopic rest question
Can anyone tell me the hole dimension in the casting for the telescopic steady or following rest. They both use the same sleeve according to the parts list. Approximate dimension taken with a scale would be fine. JP (14604)
On my heavy 10 steady and follow rest, to the best I can eyeball with calipers, the hole towards the inside of the casting is approximately 0.875 in. Jeff (14606)
I checked my steady rest casting for my south bend 10K. It looks like a 7/8 NF 14 hole. The assembly looks like it is tapped. The sleeve is then screwed in and a locking pin holds it permanently. Do you have a source of castings? (I am looking for the telescopic follower rest for my lathe but, I would be very happy with a casting.) Guy (14607)
I haven't seen many other SB 10L and 10K steady rests that didn't have this tapped hole and sleeve.. even though while I was looking for a 13" one I found a 10K one that was broken and missing this assembly. It looked to me like it was a little less than 1", possibly 5/8 or 7/8 and tapped with some fine thread. Greg (14608)
Ball bearing steady rest
My 9" SB model A came with a steady rest that has sealed ball bearings for the work to ride on. I don't seem to see these anywhere - was this a standard SB item or did I just get a piece off some other lathe? John  (15416)
I have no idea about it be standard or not but it does seem like a good idea. Is it a telescopic rest or the other. I think that the regular style that has bolts to make the adjustment would be easy to add the ball bearing to. BTW how could I turn a long taper using a steady rest. The part I need to do is a little longer than my bed. Mike (15419)
A lot of people will modify their steadies to accept a roller bearings as this is the most trouble free and adjustment free setup when using a steady. As a matter of fact I have converted my steady to run on roller bearings. Probably was not an option from SB back then. Ron (15426)
Is it a cast unit or a complex weldment. There is a company that makes aftermarket steady rests, mostly ball bearing, for any lathe. RC (15427)
Do you know the company's name? Frank (15428)
It's a cast unit. I'll take a closer look at it tonight and post whatever details I can see. John (15429)
Follower Rest
I have a 9 inch Model A and have had fun getting the lathe cleaned up and running. Some of the parts will need replacing in the future, the lead screw has a worn area near the head stock, but for now I'll work around it. My question is, I am in need of a follower rest for the saddle, I want to cut a long screw, but without the follower I get to much deflection. If anyone could direct me to a company or person, It would be of great help. I have been trying to contact different used machine dealers and keeping my eye on Ebay but as of yet have not been able to fine one. Also I have a follower rest to what I think goes to a 13inch lathe, it has the number in the casting 13011 or 130T1 and stamped on the area of mounting bolts is FR100, If anyone need this, send me a Email. John (15632)
If you don't mind the part not being original, you can always modify a follow rest of another brand to fit, since it bolts to the side of the saddle. Harbor Freight has a very inexpensive one (43580-0VGA, 7/8" capacity, $16.99) that you could probably make work. Jeff (15636)
I think someone was looking for a follower rest recently. There is one on E-Bay : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=2580830931category=41944 I would expect a fair price would be around $150. I am not the seller. Tom(15713)
Steady rest base width for 13" SBL
I have a steady rest with a base that measures 4 1/2' from the center of the V to the center of the flat. Will this fit a 13" SBL bed? (18236)
My 13" SB Steady measures 4 3/4" Center of Vee to Center of Flat but I think you can get away with 4 1/2". What is more critical is measurement from bottom of flat to centerline, or split where steady opens up. This should be 6 1/2" obviously. Ron
(18237)
What does your base clamp measure across? Mine is 4'. dave (18243)
Base Clamp is 4 7/16". It is radiused at that Diameter to allow for clamp to turn inside its clamping area without taking it off the lathe. Ron (18250)
Follower rest ID
I've misplaced my parts catalog so I'll ask here. Can someone tell me what size lathe a follower rest stamped FLR100TT fits? Found one at the local used dealer and think I can get it at a good price. Chris (18597)
I can't be 100% sure but I believe that parts with letter designation "TT" are for 14" Variable Speed Lathe. If part had single designation "T" then it would be for the 13". Regular 14 1/2" letter designation is "F" I believe. I have a used Collet Closer that I asked Rose from South Bend on that had designation "TT" and she says that is 14" Variable Speed. Ron (18601)
Ron. A quick measurement showed it to be somewhere around 13" to 14" but I wanted to be sure. Chris (18608)
Jaw replacement telescoping heavyrest
I have just acquired a set of replacement jaws for the telescoping heavyrest on my heavy 10 SBL. (10L). How do I disassemble the present jaws to replace them. Gerald (18703)
I believe you just spin the knurled knob out pulling the finger with it. When you have the assembly out of the rest, spin the finger off the knob. Now if you have a roller bearing on the tip of the finger (as is mine) you will have to remove the bearing first. John. (18708)
10K telescoping steady rest parts
The top half of my 10K telescoping steady rest has cracked, when I contacted South Bend about a new one they said none in stock, many weeks wait and worse yet hundreds of dollars. Any ideas on where to get a used one? The number cast on the part is PT116NR1. (19405)
You might try and have it brazed together. This usually works well for cast iron. Depends on where it is cracked. Tom (19406)
A similar thing happened to me when my telescoping rest cracked I carefully drilled both sides and threaded one side and opened up the other to clearance I screwed it together with a socket head cap screw and applied 2 part epoxy to the joint also then I used automotive bondo to cover up the screw head and hole and any other marks and sanded and painted you cannot tell where the repair was made and it is as strong as the original. (19407)
Get it welded. (19411)
Steady rest 10L
Does any one know how to read the casting numbers on SB parts ? I'm looking at a steady rest on e-bay with the numbers "T115R1, T116NR1" on it. Is the a 10L or a 10K part ? Mike (19501)
I just looked at the steady rest for my 10L but could not find a number. Is it stamped somewhere or in the casting? Joe R (19506)
Mike: Casting # for a Heavy 10" would be R, T for the 13" , N and K for the 9" and Light 10", F for the 141/2" and H I think for the 16/24". Ron (19508)
There are a lot of numbers on my 9". Top section, head stock side cast 126NR2 Also cast B.P. Bottom section cast 125N2 and another cast B.P. The bottom, next to the flat has a stamped SR101N. The clamping piece cast 127NR4. Bob (19512)
I have it on good authority that if the part number has a Letter "R" in it that it is for the 10L or Heavy Ten. I hope this may help. Jim (19538)
I know this is covered in the archives, but generally a number like "125N2" means that casting works only on an "N" or 9 inch lathe. A part number like "126NR2" or "127NR4" means that casting works on "N" through "R" lathes, in other words, the 9, 10 (light, or "K"), and 10 (heavy, or "R"). Jeff (19540)
Mike My heavy 10 telescoping steady rest has the following casting marks. The base has raised letters PT115R1 and the hinged upper part is stamped PT116NR1. These are quite similar to the ones you mention (with the addition of a preceding P), so I think the odds are good that yours is for a heavy 10 as well. Frank (19541)
I should have summed it up by saying, in the case of your steady rest, which consists of 3 castings, its the main lower casting (126NR2) that makes the entire assembly one for a Heavy 10. Jeff ( 19542)
Steady Rest
Is a 10 inch Telescoping Steady Rest for a SBL the same Steady Rest on a 10 inch Heavy SBL? Are they the same? Leeg (20197)
SBL made 2 different 10 inch lathes, 10K and a 10L and they are NOT interchangeable. the 10K is sized like the 9 inch lathe and some parts interchangeable. (20204)
Walt you just saved my friend some money. (20220)
Steady rest model numbers?
There is a steady rest on E-Bay with the following description: Like new shows little or no use southbend lathe steady rest for 10 inch swing lathe. Main casting marked T775R1, Top half marked PT116NR1 So can anyone tell me how to figure out if it is a 10L or a 10K please? The owner doesn't know. Mike (20793)
Call LeBlond or Rose at Parts works to match the numbers. The difference between the 2 lathes is the width between the rails. The 10L is wider than the 10K. Paul (20794)
I won't attempt to speak for Rose or for LeBlond, but why not contact the *SELLER*? You're suggesting that everyone with any question about something on eBay call someone who is NOT involved, is NOT going to earn anything for their time, and in fact, is LOSING business due to this secondary market. For myself, I am tired of taking calls asking "will this gear on eBay (that I could get from you, but I'm too cheap) fit my lathe?" Yeah, let the flames begin. Scott Logan (20795)
Mike: Take this as a clue only, It appears that South Bend Lathe had a part numbering system that used letters in the part number that designated lathe size. Part numbers for 9 in. used "N", 10-K used "K", heavy 10 used "R", 13 in used "T" , etc. From this I would say it is for a heavy 10. The top half is probably common to both. Wayne (20796)
First, if the seller is really interested in earning your business, ask him/her to take some measurements. OTOH, and perhaps someone more familiar with the SB numbering system can confirm or refute, isn't the "R" in the number indicative of being designed for the 10-L? FWIW, according to an old SB Catalog, the Telescoping Steady for the 10-K is Cat. No. CL2400K and for the 10-L, it is CL2400R. Scott Logan (20797)
Here's how it works. Using the steady rest for example, some of the castings are common to several lathes, while other castings work on only one lathe model. The top half is marked "PT116NR1". "NR" means this casting is applicable for lathes (N) "through" (R), meaning the 9in (N), 10K, and 10" (R). The bottom half which is marked "T775R1" means that it will only fit an "R" or 10 in. So taking the sum of the parts, the assembly is for an "R", or the 10 in. FYI, the 10" is found in two varieties, R (small spindle hole) and L (Large spindle hole). But as far as casting numbers go, R means Heavy 10, regardless of the spindle hole. So for the 9 in (N), 10K, and 10in (R) steady rests, the upper half is the same for all three, but its the bottom half which decides what it's for. If you check the casting number for the clamping plate, it will probably also have an "R", while a clamping plate for 9in or 10K will probably have an "NK", as the beds are the same. Jeff (20798)
I'm sure someone can answer based on those numbers but you could also just get the measurement between the ways on the steadyrest base and check that it matches your lathe. The 10k uses the narrow bed like the 9 and the 10L is a wider bed.
(20800)
No need for flaming, you put your own foot in your mouth by not reading the original mail closely. Len (20801)
Can also ask for the measurement from the V to the flat face on the other side. the compare with your lathe. paul (20802)
Hey, that sounds like a familiar story to me also. Jack (20803)
The steady rest I received with my heavy 10 is marked PT775R1 on the bottom half. The top is PTT16NR1 and the follower rest is marked PT120N1. Ray (20804)
Scott, Good advice. Anytime I am interested in something on Ebay and have a question the first thing I do is contact the seller. The other comment regarding contacting LeBlond, etc. is also valid. When I called for the card on my recently purchased Heavy 10, I went ahead and ordered a parts manual for it from LeBlond. I know I can buy it as a photocopy cheaper, but felt I owed LeBlond something for keeping the SB data and giving it to me for free. Sometimes Ebay sellers shoot themselves in the foot. I do not bid on anything without a photo, and a good one. In a recent auction, the seller could not give me any information other than what was on the Ebay page. I had also asked about an obvious part of the item included when shipped new from the factory that was not on the photo, and the terse reply was, "What I saw in the photo is all I got." We all can affect the outcome of auctions whether seller or buyer. I have seen items that should have had numerous bids and a high price, go for nothing to one bidder. For the seller this was an injustice, and for the buyer it was a windfall. At some point the roles will be reversed. But, 1) You have to know what you are selling if you expect to get a decent price for it, and 2) You better know what you are bidding on and what you can get it for elsewhere. Brian (20808)
Except the message you are responding to was NOT a response to the original message, I sent a separate response to that. The message you are commenting on was directed to the poster who suggested contacting LeBlond or Parts Works. Watch the threading. ******* * POP * -Sound of my foot popping out of my mouth. ******* -- Scott Logan (20809)
I'm getting a good chuckle out of all this at least. It sounds like by the model number that it is indeed a 10L. I did ask the seller about it and he didn't know but he did offer the measurements: The steady rest is not marked K or L . The base is 3-3/4 inches from the center of the V to the center of the flat and 4-7/8 inch wide overall :) The problem for me is that the lathe is not here. It's in storage over at my dad's shop. P.S. So how much is a "new" steady rest? if they are even available. (20811)
Jeff I agree with the first part of your reply. However, I believe that the R designation is only used for heavy 10 parts common to both the big and small spindle hole or for just the small hole version. Parts unique to the large hole version use the L designation (or at least many such parts exist on my 10L). For bed and carriage parts such as steady and follower rests (which are common to both spindle hole sizes) your description is fine. Frank (20812)
This is ridiculous. Joe @ Plaza machinery makes and sells new ones for $165. I don't understand why these steady rests keep selling so high on Ebay! (20823)
Mike, According to the manual for the 10-14-1/2" South Bend lathe (read Heavy 10), PT116NR1 is a steady rest top (item #17) for a 10" lathe. The bottom piece or steady rest base assembly is (item #19) part number PA115R1. There should be a "Unit Code Number" stamped near the V-way on the bottom piece, SDR101R. Brian (20824)
Now I have a steady rest question. With the purchase of my 1940 10L came a steady rest with a unit code number of CTR100R1. It is a blue color, not grey, or green, or military primer like much of the paint on my lathe. It also has the slotted flat jaws instead or the round ones. I have South Bend Parts book SB CE 3458 which has two steady rests listed, one for the 10 and 13" lathes unit code number SRD101R and SRD101T, and one for the 16 ands 16/24, a Big Daddy. It appears to fit the ways just fine. Any ideas what it's heritage is? Brian (20825)
I'm sure that the R in the part numbers means it's for a Heavy Ten, I need one too. Jim (20826)
Is it still on E-Bay would you be able to give me it's number. Jim (20829)
I guess if you're interested in keeping originality, then I guess you pay antique prices. If you're interested in something that works well and looks like a factory unit and don't have the ability/time/interest/tools to make your own, you buy the aftermarket ones, which are not unreasonably priced. But if all you want is a steady rest that works, and especially if you're cheap like me, they are the easiest things to make since they are no precision requirements to the assembly. They can be made with hacksaws, files, cutting torches, welders, mills, lathes, shapers, or any combination thereof and will work perfectly. The simplest way to make one is to start with a piece of pipe and go from there. Ditto for follow rests. After looking at the prices for these things, that's what I'm going to do for the 13" I'm restoring that didn't come with steady or follow. But since I've got a shaper, mill, torch, welder, etc., I'll make an effort to make 'em look nice. Might even cast the main assemblies in aluminum if I feel up to the pattern-making. Ed (20830)
Funny you should mention this. I have been planning to make a steady rest for some time. My daughter (the steamfitter) brought me home a length of 6" pipe from the last job. I was going to cut two pieces about 1" thick and cut two exact halfs. Then machine 3 hollow bosses about 3/4 od with 1/2 id. thread the outside of the bosses, broach a keyway on the id, use 1/2 brass rods, as the work guides, with a keyway slot for most of the length, use a nut on the od of the boss and a working against a pair of C rings on the brass work guides. There could be several positions for the C rings. Questions: What to do about a hinge and lock to open it up and secure it? Is it worth while to add ball bearings on the ends of the brass rods? Can I use steel as the base, riding on the ways, or should I try to get cast iron? Can I use old widow shades as a source of cast iron? If I go with cast iron should I weld or braze, or silver solder the round pipe to the base? Jim B. (20833)
The subject steady rest is the telescoping finger type. IIRC, South Bend prices for a telescoping finger steady rest are even higher than the all time highest Ebay prices, I believe I read that South Bend practically makes them to order. Also IIRC, the ones at Plaza are the simpler non-telescoping type, and are slightly smaller dimensionally, which probably means that original castings were used as forms, with no compensating for shrinkage. No criticisms here, just FYI. Jeff (20834)
Should have read: Can I use old window sash weights as a source of cast iron? Jim B. (20836)
Jim, I think hinges and locks can be as simple or as complex as you want. The operative questions are how much weight are you planning on putting on it and how much upward thrust from cutting will be imposed? If you think you're going to be taking 0.250" cuts in steel, it better be pretty stout and rigid, similar to the original SB design. If it's only light cuts, you can use hardware store hardware. Personally, I like the boss/pin arrangement of the original as it provides both radial and axial rigidity and is simple to construct if you can weld or braze. Since the steady rest does not have to provide smooth, sliding contact between itself and the ways, you don't really have to concern yourself with that aspect of the base. Therefore cast iron is not required. It should be machined or filed so that it won't damage the ways when clamped and you don't want any burs and minimal machining marks. I think the easiest way to do this is make the base from aluminum and then file a round "nest" for the upper pipe section to sit in. Then bolt the two together. I don't think welding or brazing on the base is advisable after forming the dovetail and flat, due to warping. So weld/braze before final machining. If you don't know how to weld cast iron, then don't try it unless you want to make that a whole new learning experience. Another argument for using steel or aluminum for the base. When I made a follow rest for a 9C, I carved it out of a solid billet on the mill (that was a stupid design decision) and put needle bearings on the ends of the fingers. It works alright BUT: Unless you have some way to preload the rollers, it is not as accurate as desired and, chips can get into the rollers. I now think that brass or bronze tips is as good or better than anything, particularly if you design it so they are easily replaceable. Funny how we keep re- inventing what they figured out decades ago. Ed (20837)
Jim, Take it from me don't do it. I thought I had a goldmine in old weight's, put one in my 4x6 bandsaw and wiped out the blade and didn't even scratch the surface. Threw them all away. Bob (20841)
Folks do not take the time or effort to find out what they can buy things for elsewhere. Happens all the time. Brian (20843)
Steady rest Follower rest ID by Part#?
Could anyone identify a steady rest with a Part # of T115R1 (also has T115R6 on the top part) Or this follower rest with a Part # of PT120R1 They look to be for a 10" lathe, the seller thinks they will fit on my Logan 11" the way they are, but even if they don't I have a friend who needs the follower rest if it will fit his heavy ten. Seller also has a milling attachment that looks like a SB one I saw some time ago but can't seem to find a number on it. Sam (21384)
The "R" in the part number means it's for a heavy 10. The center line is different for an 11" lathe. Jim (21390)
SB 9" Traveling Steady
I'm looking for a picture, plans or basic dimensions of a traveling steady for the 9" Southbend. I wish to make a replacement steady for my clone. Peter. (21727)
A traveling steady is called a follow rest, can't help you with any more information than that though. Jim (21733)
Peter, I am interested in making a follower rest for my lathe, too. I have access to sand casting aluminum or bronze at the local Community College. I suppose I could convince them to try cast iron if I bought a crucible for the furnace. If someone had a rest I could borrow, I could cast a few "blanks" to be machined. Dennis P offered to lend me one for a 10K (or was it a heavy 10) to measure. Anybody have one for a 9" lathe in the Chicago area? Lurch, have you got one? Glen (21737)
An American following rest is a British traveling steady. There is a good drawing of one in HTRAL pg. 93. JP(21740)
I believe there are sketches of the follower rest accessory in the army manual. I have it in pdf form if you want it. (21746)
Yep, I got one. Like new at that. And a foundry 3 blocks down the street. Although what they want for small quantities remains to be seen. I have one, that means they can make one per pour. If I could replicate it a couple dozen times they could do a couple dozen in one pour. Glen, I have some ideas about another way to do it. (21750)
Help identifying steady rest?
I had a wood lathe that came with some extra parts. one was a steady rest that does not fit the lathe. It is smaller than something that could fit on my 9" It has some text in the casting. M6-326 and is open on one side. I could post pictures if that would help identify the part. I assume there are not a whole lot of lathes under 9" that it might fit. Dave (22971)
That is a steady rest for the 6 inch Atlas metal lathe which was sold directly by Atlas, and also badged as the Craftsman 101. series metal lathe. In good condition, it should sell for around $100 on ebay, maybe more. Bill (22973)
Wow ! It looks to be in great shape, but is missing one of the three brass pieces. Sounds like I should replace that and then see what E-Bay will offer. Dave (22974)
I looked around a little for a replacement 'arm' for the steady rest. since it looks like brass, it may be some oilite or something ? any idea what the type of brass might be ? Also, any idea if there is a lathe group for this type/size lathe ? Dave (22993)
 
     
 

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