| Lathe speeds
(Feb 4, 2001) |
Spindle rpm range for SB 13
(Aug 12, 2004) |
| Heavy 10 spindle speeds?
(Jan 7, 2003) |
Spindle speeds (Oct 6,
2004) |
| Spindle speeds/check my math?
(Feb 1, 2003) |
Actual spindle speeds for Heavy
10 (Nov 20, 2004) |
| 16" spindle speeds (May
20, 2003) |
Spindle speeds (Feb 4,
2005) |
| Changing speed (Aug 1,
2003) |
Spindle revs (Feb 7,
2005) |
| 10" Max RPM (Oct 19,
2003) |
Heavy 10 Spindle Speeds Measured
Charted (Feb 13, 2005) |
| SB 13 inch speeds (Apr
11, 2004) |
Tachometer (Feb 18, 2005) |
| |
| Lathe speeds |
| Does
anyone know/have experience with increasing the speeds on a 9" SB
lathe? On SB web site it says it runs up to 600 rpm and 1200rpm with
the 12 speed lathe. Can I run it faster than this? Can bearings
tolerate it? I have the basic 1935 lathe and will only run up to 600
rpm as it is. Was thinking of using VS motor to kick it up a notch
or at least a 3450 rpm motor to double the speeds up to 1200rpm?
David PS will write SB, but I think they are going to just
default and tell me not to run it faster than it is already set for.
(169) |
| Consider this: Some of the older
headstocks have no bearings (either sleeve or roller/ball) and that
you have steel (spindle) running in cast iron (headstock). From
early design features this was acceptable for low speeds (and I
assume SB used this tech and speeds) of machinery of the yester-year
machinery, and in its day work very satisfactory. Running high speeds
also increases friction, heat, I would be cautious of how high you
go, not an engineer, I would think if you stayed below a 1,000 rpms,
tops, and "frequently add the oil" you may be alright. Faster speeds,
lighter oil, increase friction, spells high wear of older headstock
journals. Any engineers out there. Carl (170) |
| David Why do you
want it to run faster. Every one I know try's to get the slowest
speeds possible so they can turn larger material with out frying
their tools of safer threading. JWE (171) |
| I'm thinking of using this lathe for
woodturning, and assessing how well it would work for this. David
(172) |
| Both styles of
"plain" bearings that the South Bend has used are capable of higher
speeds. There is nothing inherently speed limiting in a plain
bearing except heat dissipation and increasing drag as speed rises.
As you increase speed, the layers of lubricant molecules that
"shear" between each other begin to slide with respect to each other
at higher differential speeds, and the increasing friction between
them causes heat. If the heat gets high enough, the entire film
breaks down and you get metal to metal contact, which is *not* a
good thing. If the film is maintained and is uncontaminated by dirt
or other particles, then there shouldn't be any wear - nothing is
actually touching that would cause wear. The easiest way to solve
the speed problem without resorting to a pressurized oiling system
is to change to a lubricant that is more slippery between the
layers. You could change to a lighter weight oil to accomplish this,
but then you would lose some load carrying capacity. A better way is
to use a synthetic lubricant. For the plain bearings in the South
Bend lathes, Mobil I "Extreme Formula" OW-30 is close enough to the
ISO viscosity that SB recommends. You'll note a significant
temperature decrease in a properly clearanced bearing using the
Mobil I or similar synthetic, and the fact that the SB is
essentially a total loss system like the Bridgeport mill should
allay anyone's concern about possible detergent particle suspension
- it flushes out. In fact, a detergent for that kind of system is
arguably a desirable trait. Bottom line, anything up to 2500RPM is
probably okay if you use a synthetic. I run my Heavy 10 up to 2100
occasionally with the VFD to get a better finish on aluminum and
plastics, though the normal top is 1400. The bearing caps stay cool
ever since I changed the lubricant. Mike (183) |
| From what I
understand Southbend made to different lathes the first had only
three speeds. this spindle had a standard finish for the Bering and
is limited to about 1200 rpm. the second was a 6 speed this spindle
had a super finish for higher speeds. I do not recommend going above
recommended rpm but if you feel it is necessary to suggest loosening
the adjustment bolt on the bearings slightly. this is a common
practice small watch makers lays. you lose some accuracy when you do
this but it will not harm the lathe. make sure to retire the bolts
or standard rpm also make sure the Chuck will turn freely before you
turn on the power. Rick (188) |
| Heavy 10
spindle speeds? |
| I have not found any information on on
the speed ranges of the spindles. I want to be able to turn aluminum
and small diameters. From this, I assume I'd want speeds up to 2000
rpm ? From the parts lists I've looked at, all of the spindles turn
in plain bearings. Doesn't this effect the rpm a lathe will turn ?
Do any of the South Bends use ball or roller bearings for the
spindles ? Steve (8583) |
| There are
other applications that use plain bearings that run at higher RPM.
For a 1 inch diameter aluminum piece your RPM would be around 2000
RPM. I fly model R/C airplanes. Some of the motors use plain
bearings and others use roller bearings. Most think the roller
bearings give and advantage in performance. According to one
manufacture (Fox), there is no performance gain. But the plain
bearings do take longer to break in. I do think even our lathes
would need and initial break in period. I do have a CNC lathe that
says to run the spindle at a certain RPM for a few hours when new.
Also, Car motors use plain bearings. They regularly run in the
2000-4000 RPM range. I would recommend to use synthetic oil or
lubricants. These can take a higher load and RPM. From what I've
heard, they generally show little or no wear in car motors at
100,000 miles. I do use them in my car. The main draw back is cost.
$1.50 for regular oil vs. $4.75 for full synthetic. I justify this
with longer intervals in oil change (10,000 miles vs. 3,000 miles)
and a 2mpg increase. Back to model airplanes, there are ceramic ball
bearings available for them. From what I understand they only are
needed when you are looking at 30,000 RPM. (OK a bit of the
subject). Still, I think the main advantage of the ball bearings in
this application is ease of maintenance. With wear the bearings
create an air gap or the seal goes out. This causes an unreliable
idle. The ball bearing can be reliably replaced. Maybe someone on
the board has direct experience running aluminum on a heavy ten for
a period of time. Still, I wouldn't be to concerned and run
synthetics. Feel the head stock during running. It should get warm,
but not hot to the touch. Tom (8605) |
| Spindle
speeds/check my math? |
| I put 1
3/4" pulley on the motor, 8" on the countershaft, motor speed is
1725. I come up with the following: 377 rpm @ spindle shaft and
using 4" center positions on the spindle 628 rpm @ spindle using 5"
to 3" at the spindle 226 rpm @ spindle using 3" to 5" at the
spindle. By engaging the back gear how does this change these
speeds? Rich (9042) |
| Your math
looks fine. You didn't mention what lathe, but back gear ratios for
South Bend lathes range from a bit more than 5 for the small lathes
to almost 8 for some of the large ones. There appear to be a range
of ratios, even within the 9" SB series, based on the speeds shown
in "How to Run a Lathe", but most appear to be a bit more than 5. If
you have a lathe from that family, use something like 5.2 you should
be very close. Engaging the back gear reduces each of the speeds you
show by whatever that ratio is. So for your center pulley position
case the back gear speed would be 377/5.2 or about 72 RPM. Frank
(9043) |
| 16" spindle
speeds |
| I was hoping someone here could tell me the spindle
speeds on a 16" underneath drive Southbend. Serial #4188HKX10.
Thinking about buying it and am curious what the eight speeds are
(including back gear of course) as there is no plate. I feel lucky
to have found the lathe, it is military surplus and has very few
hours on it. The price seems right too. Anyone know the weight also?
And can you convert the star shaped feed engagement knob to the
lever style? Marc (11236) |
| Interesting
question. I'm in the process of rebuilding, so am not faced with the
problem, but like levers. also, from my old production days, and
stops that one set and the carriage hit and then stopped feeding were
nice. I have not looked into that as yet. The guy I got the lathe
from had sold the micro stop off the machine just before I bought
it. Dave (11239) |
| If you have a fax
number I can fax you the spindle speed chart. Depending on the
serial number of your lathe you can convert a star knob operated
clutch to a toggle cam operated clutch. With the serial number I can
give you the history on your machine and the weight. Rose
Marvin (11246) |
| Sorry Rose, no fax
number. The number you ask about must be the number on the
headstock. I thought the serial numbers were on the bed. Those are
the numbers I wrote down. It'll be a few days before I can get back
to the lathe for the other numbers. If it helps, it looks like about
36" between centers. Didn't have a tape measure with me. Marc (11250) |
| Marc- The number I
want is stamped into the top of the bed at the tailstock end of the
lathe. Rose Marvin (11254) |
| You can
convert from a knob clutch to a lever clutch. SB made a conversion
kit for the larger lathes (10L thru 16"). However it was several
hundred dollars in the 1980's if I recollect and likely a lot more
now, if LeBlond still has them. If you are cheap (like me) and your
time is free you can do a conversion a lot less expensively. First,
some of the internal parts are the same between the knob and lever
clutches. Many of the new parts are either easily fabricated from
bar stock or adaptable from one of the knob clutch parts. I
converted my 10L. I had an opportunity to measure the parts
accessible from the outside on a lathe with a knob clutch from the
factory. I also had the parts lists for both the knob and lever
clutches (you need Form 910 for the knob clutch and 992 for the
lever, for any of the "large" lathes). I purchased a second knob
clutch assembly (for ~$15 on Ebay) so I could try the modifications
without risking the existing, functional knob clutch. I bought (from
MSC) some ball thrust bearings which are slightly thicker than the
one's SB specifies, but which were only a few dollars each. I made
almost everything else (which were mostly simple lathe turnings from
mild steel). The only part which was hard to fabricate and wasn't
adaptable from knob clutch parts or purchasable was the toggle lever
itself. I waited for a year or so and one finally showed up on Ebay
(for about $20). so for less than $50 (and a bunch of time) I have a
nice lever clutch. Frank
(11262) |
| Robert, I am new to
turning metal however, I have looked at a few lathes in the last few
months and had some good instruction from a new found friend ( a
tool and die maker) as I understand it in order for the lathe to
have " gear reduction" there is a pin that must be pulled to allow
the back gear to provide gear reduction. that pin on the lathes I
have looked at including a few SouthBends was under a little thin
cover right behind the chuck. archie (11300) |
| Bill- They did at
one time. They haven't offered them in over 10 years. Rose
Marvin (11316) |
| Changing speed |
| I have a 9C serial
# 58970 and I am a novice and going to ask some pretty dumb
questions #1 how do I change the feed rate #2 I see a change gear
part on ebay that my lathe does not have, can I add this part to
my 9C? (13112) |
| #1Look at
your lathe. It should have a brass plate with the gear placement
listed. There are 3 to 4 different set ups or configurations. Then
variations of the gears in those to get different feeds and threads.
I would put a piece of paper between the gears to achieve some
amount of space between the gears meshing together. Look in the
links section of the South Bend Users website (this place). There is
a link to
www.people.ne.mediaone.net/wasser/SBLathe . I would use the
link, although it wasn't working this morning. They have exploded
diagrams of the parts for these lathes. They list the change gears.
#2 if the gears listed on E-Bay are for a 9 SB, they should work.
Although SB did have a heavier duty 9 based on the heavy 10 and some
say that very early 9 workshops used different pitched gears. You
might tell us what gear(s) you are looking for. Someone might have
one here on the board. Tom (13160) |
| 10" Max RPM |
| About what is the
max rpm for a 10" SouthBend ? (14499) |
| 700 rpm with 2
speed countershaft 1357 rpm (14501) |
| SB 13 inch
speeds |
| Can someone give me
a guide to the speeds I can expect for the above lathe its a 4 step
pulley with back gear catalog no 8113b made about 1943 ish I should
mention it will be running at 50 Hz not 60Hz as in the states.
Andrew (18352) |
| You may want the
book 'How to Run a Lathe' from Southbend, it had all of this type of
info in it. With a countershaft speed of 369 you should get 875,
567, 373, 239. In backgear 128, 81, 54, 34. So take your motor rpm
and pulley ratio to the countershaft and make it 369 rpm and you
will be in spec. JP (18365) |
| Spindle rpm
range for SB 13 |
| I'm looking at an
older 13" SB lathe and wonder what the spindle speed range is from
low to high? Does anyone know what approximate years the 13" SB's
with the cast iron base under the head stock side and legs under the
tailstock were built? Are these good machines, or should you stay
away from them? (20470) |
| Identify the series
of the lathe and look here-
http://personalpages.tds.net/~dpantazis/sbl-web/serieslist.htm
There are descriptors in the columns. Not to sound mean, but that
question is a little vague. it's kind of asking if a ford is as good
as a Chevy. As was a quality when originally produced: they were
great. What you usually don't know is how was it
used/abused/neglected. The well taken care of lathe will communicate
that to instantly. To learn more about evaluating a lathe, see the
FAQ for links to other documents. If you are looking to turn little
itty bitty screws and the like, then this is not the most ideal
lathe you would want. For general machining, yes. FYI: the same
lathes were referred to as toolroom with the addition of taper and
collets and other goodies. Generally speaking, lathes that are used,
with the normal expectations for wear and dings, etc... are still
perfectly serviceable. The most important criteria you need
determine is do you have the space. If I had the room and had to
choose between a monarch EE and a SB 11", I would take the monarch.
dennis (20488) |
| I have a 13" TKX,
my spindle speeds are as follows: Spindle RPM's for Low and High
Speed Motor Setting. Low/High Direct RPM's: 156/312, 290/580,
540/1080. Low/High Backgear RPM's: 23/46, 42/84, 80/160. I used one
of the tachometers that work off the reflective strips. I believe my
machine was built around 1940, and I have been very happy with it's
performance. Rowland (20495) |
| Spindle speeds
|
Is it possible to
swap out a 1725 motor from a 14" swing belt driven SouthBend to a
3450 to achieve a faster spindle speed
(21225) |
| Be careful
increasing spindle speeds. My buddy has a SB and wanted to do metal
spinning on it and toasted the bearings in the headstock. Bob (21226) |
The bearings and
lube system are designed for a particular max speed. Exceeding it
will lunch the bearings/spindle. Eric
(21227) |
| Actual spindle
speeds for Heavy 10 |
| I know there
are 3 spindle pulleys giving 3 speeds in regular and three in back
gear. But at the lower motor belt drive there are 2 sets of pulleys
on the V belt setup. It looks to be cumbersome to change this V belt
pulley as the cabinet side cover has to be removed and a big jack
screw loosened and re tightened. South Bend's speed range is noted
as 450 - 1450 in regular gears and 55 - 250 in back gear. My
question is, exactly what speeds am I getting on the three
pulleys from left to right if the motor V belt is on the left hand
position? And how would moving it to the right hand position change
the speeds? In other words is still the 55 - 1450 range while
allowing 12 speeds between? Who if anyone has used the motor belt
speed changes and for what machining applications? (22149) |
| Backgear is not
recommended in the high range. The countershaft speeds are 579 and
300 rpm. Spindle on high 1357, 837, 535 Spindle low no b/g 700, 434,
277 Spindle in b/g low 129, 79, 50 Select your spindle speed for the
desired surface speed depending upon the work diameter and material
and tooling etc. I have not had a need to use the high range for
what I use the lathe for. JP (22150) |
| The underdrive on
the Heavy 10 tube cabinet has the belt tension arm sticking out of
the cabinet. To change the belt pulley location, don't you just take
tension off the belt and slide it over to the other pulley? Brian
(22248) |
| Yes but I would
turn the motor off first. Moving the belt with the drive operating
can hurt when your fingers get caught under the belt. (22252) |
| Spindle speeds
|
| What started out as
a simple check on my spindle speeds with the old Starrett 104 speed
indicator, ended up a nasty 2 day job. Since I am just
re-commissioning this lathe after having bought it 5 years ago, and
am getting ready to fit semi-finished back plates to chucks, I
decided that it would be wise to know the actual spindle speeds. All
went well on the 4 direct belt drive speed checks. However, when I
engaged the back gears, it sounded like a continuous train wreck.
After removing the guards it was apparent that cleaning the gears
would be a good plan. Compressed air and solvents like carburetor
cleaner were out of the question due to the proximity of these gears
to the spindle bearings and the spindle thrust bearing. With Q tips,
artists paint brush, kerosene, and brass punch from gun repair tool
kit; I went at it, one tooth at a time. This material was very hard
to remove particularly from the bull gear and the quill pinion gear.
It took 2 days to get it all clean. With it all clean and lubed with
type c oil it sounded good on the two slower back geared speeds but
on the faster two it still sounded like a cement mixer, a big
improvement over the train wreck sound, but still pretty noisy. I
consulted my SB lube chart #6503 that I got from Rose 5 years ago.
In small print under the lube specification chart, it says Open Gear
Spray Lubricant-Recommended for gearing not running in oil, and is
effective in reducing gear noise. SB Cat. No. CE1605 . Not having
any of this stuff, I squirted some 90 weight on the gears, and it
helped instantly. The problem is this 90 weight ran off the gears
overnight. Does anyone know what this Open Gear Spray Lubricant is?
Or what would work until I can get some. Is a GL-2 greasing a good
idea? Due to the large diameter (9-1/4 ) of this semi-finished back
plate I will have to run the lathe back geared when machining it. I
sure don t want to wait until I mail order this lubricant. Nick (24800) |
| Nick, If there is a Harley shop close by, get a quart of their
synthetic transmission oil. Works great on the open gears and stays
put fairly well. I was amazed how much it reduced the noise.
Jim (24808) |
| You need to
adjust the gears mesh, it may be too loose. There is an adjustment
screw on the outside eccentric on the backgear shaft (on the 10L
anyway). The lube you mention could be 'black oil' spray lube or
'chain lube' which is a spray on graphite based lube. JP (24810) |
| Open gear lube is
sometimes called crater grease. It is available in spray cans. you
should be able to get it from a contractors supply house or any oil
distributor. Jim
(24812) |
| You might try spray
lube for high stress link chains. Thomas (24818) |
| JP, Unfortunately
On the 13" SB's the adjustment of gear lash involves elongating a
hole that was drilled when the eccentric bushing "K" was fitted to
the lathe. Mine actually runs quietest with the eccentric lever just
short of its stop (gears fully meshed). Some amount of noise I am
going to have to live with due to wear and abuse. When I have the 90
weight on the gears, it seems acceptable. Straight cut gears are
never totally silent. The problem is this oil, over not much time
(overnight), mostly drips off. What I scraped off of the gears
looked like dried up grease and pulverized dirt and metal. I thought
grease would be a bad idea because it collects dirt so well. Same
problem with motorcycle chain oil. That is why I was trying to
figure out what this SB "Open Gear Spray Lubricant" was like. I
guess I will see if I can get a can (the lube chart says 12oz. can,
doesn't sound like an aerosol) of it from Rose and see what it is. I
will try the Harley synthetic Trans oil tomorrow and see if it stays
on the gears. For now I just have to pull the guards and put the 90
weight on the gears before I run it back geared. I am going back out
to tinker with it some more. I won't be getting any sleep soon
because the punks next door went Mardi Grassing and left an unhappy
puppy dog outside in their yard. The spindle speeds are about 90% of
the speeds given in HTRAL, but that is another story (motor pulley
too small, I think). The main thing is I know what the spindle
speeds are and therefore can calculate cutting speeds. Nick
(24820) |
| Nick, The 13 and
the 10L are the same. On the outside eccentric there is a nut on a
setscrew. The mesh setting is just off where the gears bottom. The
crud is oxidized oil, scraping it out is the only way I know of,
short of a thermonuclear device, to remove it. I oil the lathe each
time I use it and I put a few drops of way oil on the gear faces,
not a lot, just a quick squirt. You will have to live with some
noise. (24832) |
| For clarification
on the back of the headstock. The mesh setting is just off where the gears.
You can adjust it for minimum noise on the spot. (24833) |
| Open gear lube is
black in color (the stuff that I have) and it has a kind of tar like
quality, it really stays put. Probably no real substitute, much
thicker than even axle grease. It's also good for an open chain
drive, even at high speeds it wont fling off. Mine is in a spray
paint can size aerosol container. Mine is very old but it shouldn't
be too expensive and it lasts a long time.(24866) |
| Open
gear lube is black in color (the stuff that I have) and it has a
kind of tar like quality, it really stays put. Probably no real
substitute, much thicker than even axle grease. It's also good for
an open chain drive, even at high speeds it wont fling off. Mine is
in a spray paint can size aerosol container. Mine is very old but it
shouldn't be too expensive and it lasts a long time. ú Jim Thanks
Jim, it sounds like good stuff to quiet worn and beat up gears like
mine. The lubes for enclosed gear boxes is just not thick enough. I
hope to find something like this when the industrial supply
businesses open up Monday. Nick
(24882) |
| The kind I use is
dry, I think it is made by Lubriplate, I think its a graphite base
but not sure. Jim (24887) |
| My can says
"open gear and wire rope lubricant", its a refugee from employment
in '78 working on cranes and winches. you probably can get it at an
industrial supply house that sells fasteners and cables (winch
lines, etc.) This stuff is still used so its still around. Not too
easy to wash off at all. (24945) |
| Spindle revs
|
| Someone
recently mentioned that they had measured spindle speeds versus the
calculated values based on motor rpm and pulley/gear reductions.
This got me to thinking, as my 16" SBL 117C has had a motor change
out, if my spindle rpm's are what I think they are? Anyone have a
recommendation for an inexpensive way to test this, or a recommended
hand held rev counter. A quick look at some websites shows there are
contact and "photo" type. Mark
(24955) |
| The cheapest way to
do it is get a Starrett 104 speed indicator, used on eBay for about
$10 - $20. It will count the revolutions your spindle makes over a
fixed period of time determined by you. I let it run for 3 minutes
at lower speeds and then divide the revolutions by 3 to get rpm's. I
let it run for 5 minutes at medium speeds, and 10 minutes for higher
speeds. The longer you run it the higher the degree of accuracy that
you achieve. The easiest way to do it, is to get a chronometric
tachometer and you will get an instant reading, but it costs more.
Nick (24956) |
| Or assuming all the
pulleys are standard, you only need to establish the actual rpm at
any speed to work out the rest. Slowest combination with the
backgear in will be slow enough to count by sight. Put an easily
visible mark on the chuck and count the number of revolutions over 1
minute. This will be near enough for any practical purpose. Nick
(24958) |
| Mark: Buy, beg,
borrow or steal a photo type. Have seen them new on Ebay for $75 or
less. Borrowed one from work to get spindle speeds on an Atlas Mill
I had made pulleys for by using calculations from Machinery's
Handbook and speed chart from the mill. Error when finished was + -
3% on 16 different speeds. Ron (24959) |
| Mark, I did a couple quick calculations. If you have one of those
digital bike speedometers laying around, a wheel size of 1056 inches
per revolution will make the MPH reading equal to RPM. If it won't
take that big a wheel, try 106 and you will get RPM X 10. So a
reading of 60 mph would equal 600 rpm. You could attach the magnetic
trigger to your chuck. Cut a paper strip and wrap it tight around
the chuck, stick the magnet to some duct tape, then wrap the tape
over the paper tight. That way you have a continuous ribbon around
the chuck for strength but you will avoid having to clean duct tape
adhesive off your chuck/face plate. I would still not stand in line
with the chuck, especially if you crank up the speed. Although, as
Nick states, you only really need to check one speed and calculate
from there. If you do the 10:1 thing, setting the speed to record
average speed will report an average over some period of time-
updated every minute on mine, I think. This measure often includes a
tenth digit so you get another digit of precision.
Bill
(24961) |
| Mark, If you have
any DC electric motor and a multi meter, you are set. All DC motors
are marked with their RPM at a given voltage, this same voltage is
generated if the motor is driven to the same speed and it is a
straight line graph from rest. Simply chuck up the spindle, hand
hold the motor, measure volts and voila. Broken Kids toys are a good
source. Bernard R (24969) |
| Mark, I would 2nd
the post re: setting to lowest speed (should be 50 RPM) and simply
timing over perhaps 5 min- this results in a very accurate RPM. then
figure the ratio of motor pulley turns to spindle rotations for each
position- with my 10k I would count the ratio over as many as 40
rotations to get a really accurate ratio (all by hand turning of
course). I had my wife count one spindle while I counted the other (
she really thought this was fun!). Once you have the ratio table and
the one reference RPM at low speed its simple math. (24974) |
| You can buy a
digital tachometer from Tower hobbies brand new for $19.99 plus
shipping, it is photocell type used on rc airplane engines
0-32,000rpm, it is made for 2/3 bladed props, all you have to do is
put 2 marks on the chuck, point the unit at the marks and press the
button. Here is the url:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=tachometerFVPROFIL=++search3=Go (24975) |
| You can
pick up a photo sensor one for about $50 new. Accurate to 99999 RPM's Jim (24978) |
| In the next week
I'll be installing a Red Lion Tachometer on my H10. It a bit
superfluous because you only need to know your speeds once. I'll post
the spindle speeds in high and low ranges when I find out. (24990) |
| Heavy 10
Spindle Speeds Measured Charted |
| I have always
wanted to know what the exact spindle speeds were on my Heavy 10.
Now I know and am ready to share. I hooked up a tachometer to
the lathe and have measured all the speeds. Southbend specifies 300
- 1400 in direct drive, 55 - 250 in backgear. But what ranges, Hi or
Low, and combinations thereof achieve these speeds? Removing the
left side cover reveals 2 sets of drive pulley wheels. The smaller
pulley (outboard) I'll call Hi range and the bigger pulley (inboard)
is low range. I'll upload an excel spreadsheet to the files section
for reference if the moderator will give me his email. I can also
email the sheet to any other interested members. It's a little
cumbersome changing over the drive pulleys, but is do-able.
Generally, in order to get a descending speed range, you need to
switch from High to Low range on the V belt pulleys. Now that we all
will soon know how to achieve exact spindle speeds, what cutting
applications are they good for? (25165) |
| Does anyone out
there have a clue as to Southbend's rational for setting up their
lathes with these speed range settings? Hey !!! Guess what? The
spreadsheet chart pasted into the reply box. Southbend Heavy 10
Spindle Speeds H = High Range Sm = Small cone pulley L = Low Range
Md = Middle cone pulley B = Backgear Lg = Large cone pulley Pulley
RPM RPM Pulley H Sm 1400 1400 H Sm H Md 750 750 H Md H Lg 560 700 L
Sm H B Sm 250 560 H Lg H B Md 160 450 L Md H B Lg 100 300 L Lg L Sm
700 250 H B Sm L Md 450 160 H B Md L Lg 300 130 L B Sm L B Sm 130
100 H B Lg L B Md 80 80 L B Md L B Lg 55 55 L B Lg backgear. (25181) |
| Yep, It sure pasted
the spreadsheet, but it closes up blank spaces when the message
posts. It still may be decipherable if you look closely. (25182) |
| Tachometer |
| A year or
so back someone on this group was building a Tach for spindle speed
on the lathe, seems like he was in Texas? Anybody remember this?
Dee (25324) |
| It wasn't me but
they are easy to build. National semiconductor makes a chip that is
a frequency to voltage converter. You can use a magnetic pick up
coil and a very small magnet fastened somewhere to the spindle out
of the way. This chip puts out a linear voltage with the speed
change. you could feed that to an analog meter and have you speed
read on that. Just in case you want to look. LM2917 is an 8 pin dip.
John
(25326) |
| John, I
am a little confused by your response (very easy for me ) Is there
supposed to be a web address for me to check out this pic or
drawing? Perhaps the gentleman was not on the South Bend list, it
could have been on the Atlas Craftsman board? Dee (25327) |
| I'm interested in a unit. I can make PC Boards on my pcb machine so if someone wants to lay out a circuit, I can make
some boards. I think a part of the project would be to display the
RPM on a digital meter. and for that, a micro controller would be
nice to have. But, then why not use that to read the sensor..... I
salvaged a treadmill and it has a pulley with a magnet in it. Makes
me think a pvc collar could be made and a magnet be epoxied into it
for the pulses. Dave
(25328) |
| Dee, Check out
http://www.omega.com and search for 'tachometer'.
They sell
industrial quality process control equipment and the cost is about
the same as a roll-your-own with considerably less aggravation and
wasted time. I have used them for many years. JP or drawing? been on
the Atlas Craftsman board? makes a chip that is a frequency to
voltage converter. You can use a magnetic pick up coil and a very
small magnet fastened somewhere to the spindle out of the way. This
chip puts out a linear voltage with the speed change. you could feed
that to an analog meter and have you speed read on that. Just in
case you want to look. LM (25329) |
| If you are able to
work with electronics, National Semiconductor manufactures a chip
that's a tach chip. You have to however know how to construct the
circuit. It takes only a few support components. I've built a
similar circuit as an Overspeed trip for a generator using the same
part. (25333) |
| In addition to the
several posts about building your own hardware, why not just use a
cheap multimeter with frequency input function? I have seen some
cheaper but can't find a link, here are some in the $40 range
http://www.multimeterwarehouse.com/digitalmultimeter.htm You will
have a nice big liquid crystal readout and a good multimeter to use
when you don't need the RPM readout. A small magnet with pickup
coil, a white stripe with photocell, LED with photo-transistor or
other similar signal could easily be used. If you are using the
treadmill motor as a drive, most of them have some type of shaft
speed sensor that the meter would probably read directly. Dallas
(25346) |
| Thank you guy's for
your ideas, this may be the way to go. Dee (25348) |
| This is the one I was thinking about,
http://mkctools.com/tachulatoratlas.htm Dee (25349) |
| There are a few low
price tachometer kits available.
http://www.seanet.com/~dmauch/Products2.htm
http://dsgnspec.com/Tachjr.html There are other ways to identify
speed also.
http://homepage.mac.com/bhagenbuch/machine/pages/tachometer.html
http://www.jeffree.co.uk/Pages/speedmeasurement.html I hope these
are of interest. Richard (25351) |
| I have no
affiliation with these people, they advertise in an electronics
magazine I get, but they sell a Digital Laser Tachometer for $ 49.
There web site is www.web-tronics.com it's complete, not a kit, it
registers from 2.5 to 99,999 RPM's. It's technical details are on
their web site. Jim (25355) |
| Many of the
inexpensive multi-meters intended for automotive technicians have a
pulse counting RPM feature which will work with any suitable input.
If you already have such a meter I imagine something adequate could
be cobbled together very cheaply using parts from an electronic
trigger type distributor retrieved from a scrapped car. These
automotive market meters are worth looking into if you are
contemplating the purchase of a multi-meter as, to my eyes at least,
the ranges and functions offered are usually more suitable for
general use than those on meters intended for the electronics
market. I purchased such a meter a while back as an easier
alternative to building a tacho around an LM2917 but have yet to
sort out a sensor partly due to an incredibly uninformative
specification sheet which does not delineate the required input and
partly due to the jobs to be done pile vastly exceeding the supply
of "round tuits". (25356) |
