| 10k taper attachment installation
(May 25, 2001) |
Taper attachment usage question
(Jul 18, 2003) |
| Taper Attachment (Babbit)
(Sep 20, 2001) |
Crossfeed Screw for Taper
Attachment? (Aug 12, 2003) |
| SB Taper attachment part needed
(Dec 14, 2001) |
No Taper set drawings
(Aug 16, 2003) |
| Replacing taper att. cross feed
screw (Feb 3, 2002) |
Telescoping taper attachment
(Jan 24, 2004) |
| Mounting a Taper Attachment
(Feb 22, 2002) |
Part for taper attachment
(Feb 1, 2004) |
| Home Made Taper Attachment?
(Apr 12, 2002) |
Taper Turning Attachment
(Mar 23, 2004) |
| About taper attachments
(May 11, 2002) |
Speaking of tapers (Mar
24, 2004) |
| Heavy 10 taper attachment?
(Jun 16, 2002) |
Mass producing parts without a
hydraulic taper attachment (Jun 26, 2004) |
| Make it yourself taper attachment
(Jun 29, 2002) |
Longest normal taper cut on
9"/10" SBL? (Jul 15, 2004) |
| Smallest Lathe with Taper
Attachment? (Jan 7, 2003) |
Taper att use (Oct 9,
2004) |
| Stiff Taper Turning Attachment
on Heavy 10 (Feb 23, 2003) |
Taper attachment installation
(Dec 24, 2004) |
| 9A Taper attachment ?
(May 14, 2003) |
Taper setup example (Feb
5, 2005) |
| Homemade taper attachment for 9"
SBL (Jun 13, 2003) |
PM "make your own taper
attachment" (Feb 8, 2005) |
| 10K vs 9" Taper Attachment
Difference (Jun 26, 2003) |
Photo or dimensions of taper
part? (Mar 6, 2005) |
| |
| 10k taper attachment installation
|
| I finally found
a taper attachment for this lathe. It's all bolted up but there is a
problem. Before I attack it and screw it up I thought I would ask
you folks. All seems ok until I lock the attachment down to actually
cut a taper. As I move the carriage from left to right the taper
attachment binds on the attachments lower ways. I put a dial
indicator on the extreme left end and found .080 movement. It flexes
away from the bed as the carriage travels to the right. Somehow the
attachment isn't parallel to the bed. My first thought is it is
bent. I suppose that is possible. This is not a used taper
attachment. I gives every indication of never having been mounted
before, clean, cosmoline or some equivalent all over it, perfect
flaking etc. The lathe isn't as nice as the attachment. There is
some wear on the ways, not extreme but it exists. Could the carriage
be worn crooked? Ray
(699) |
| I should have also said I have
removed the cosmoline, lubed the ways on the attachment and
adjusted the gibs. Ray (700) |
| Ray First have you
got a picture with it mounted. Next where you mounted it were there
machined flats on the bed and pre-drilled and tapped mounting
points. Next did you get the special cross slide and feed nut for
the taper attachment. JWE (703) |
| Ray, Before you lock down the taper
attachment you must first remove the screw that holds the crossfeed
nut to the cross slide casting. This screw is found in the cross
slide between the compound and the taper attachment. If you do not
remove this screw, the taper attachment is trying to move the cross
slide and the crossfeed nut is trying to hold it steady. Not a good
thing. I hope this makes since to you. I have assumed this was not
done because you have made no mention of removing the screw. If you
have, please accept my apology and disregard the above advice.
Kris (705) |
| No, I don't have a
picture. It is mounted on the flats on the carriage in the
predrilled holes. The long cross slide is there. I do not have the
nut and screw. I will likely have to pay the long dollar to South
Bend for that, but that's ok. I can't imagine the missing nut and
screw on the cross slide causing the binding though. Ray (706) |
| No apology
needed I am a newbie HSM and all this is an adventure for me :) The
screw and nut for the cross slide is different than my old cross
slide and as it turns out, it was not included with the attachment.
No problem I am sure they are available from South Bend. The short
answer to your question is the screw is out, because I
don't have one. Ray (707) |
| Ok, as it turns out
the stem that goes through the casting for the way clamp on the end
was bent. It responded well to some gentle pressure from an arbor
press. It appears the culprit is the casting itself. I now believe
this was installed at some point (briefly) then removed (because it
was binding :)). That could explain why a brand new taper attachment
this old was unused. This unit came to me indirectly from a military
auction. So it's not inconceivable it was shelved with no real
effort to investigate the poor fit. With everything bolted up and
the casting removed from the stem attachment is nicely parallel to
the ways. When the clamp casting is slid back on the stem but not
"clamped" to the ways, the V in the casting is parallel but set back
from the ways. So if it was to be tightened it will pull the right
hand end toward the ways. As a test fit I ended up putting a .0650
shim on the back side of the ways between the casting and the ways.
Then clamped that baby down and the carriage moves nice as can be.
So what to do with this casting. The hole bored in it appears to
have a steel bushing. The bushing is drilled slightly off center. It
would be very cool if I could rotate this bushing. It looks like
there is enough eccentricity to get the casting properly located on
the ways. Does anyone know if this is a bushing and is it moveable?
I don't see any pins. I suppose it could be a shrink fit to the
casting. Ray (713) |
| It's most likely
poured babbit, Ray. Intended to be fitted for each lathe, if I
understand the process correctly. There was a thread on this a
couple of years ago on rec.crafts.metalworking - do a search on Dave
Ficken on 24 Dec 1999. Mike
(715) |
| Mike, I found
the thread you mentioned. You are right it is babbit. So, now
that that nasty old babbit is out of there. Oh yeah, I figured
since I couldn't use the taper attachment this way anyway I would go
ahead and melt it out. While it was heating I was considering where
to drill the holes for the "repouring" when suddenly 2 holes
appeared right where I needed them. How cool is that? :) Yup, the
boys at South Bend even filled the holes and painted over them so
they weren't visible at all. Well, they sure are visible now. I made
a couple washers to plug the ends of the casting. I even made up a
small pouring funnel that fit just right in the one of the holes.
Made that from a convenient piece of aluminum. Looked great. On to
reinstall the taper attachment and prepare for the pour. Handy
washers in place to prevent leaks, covered all potential points of
contact with white out as a release agent. Funnel in place,
preheating the casting and funnel... begin melting the old babbit
for the pour. So far so good. You won't find this in any book, so
I'll share this with you, but keep it a secret. It's called the lost
babbit process. Kind of like lost wax but better. You begin by
heating the babbit to a molten state. Turn to pour, smack the
pouring container against the bench and POOF the babbit is lost.
Neat huh :) Yes, I had a full face shield and protective clothing.
No harm here. No damage to the lathe or tooling. I was able to
collet the vast majority of the babbit bits. But probably don't have
enough for the job. The whole thing requires about a shot glass
full. You know there I was little babbit tear drops all over the
bench and I thought why not scrape them up and drop them into the
funnel. Melt them in a few at a time. So I did. Now, I admit I
didn't check this for sure, but I believe the melting point for
babbit is way below aluminum. SURPRISE!! the torch didn't know that.
:) By the way the white out really did work. What actual molten
metal made it into the hole came right off. If you need me I'll be
in the basement making a steel funnel. Just go to the top of the
steps and yell "Hey stupid". My question now is will something like
solder work? I could go ahead and make a bushing but this has become
an adventure now. Ray (723) |
| Ok, I collected as
much of the babbit as I could. Melted it down and added some real
old plumbers solder to make up for what was lost. I did make a
funnel of steel. While I was at it I made a pouring cup with a
handle. From this point is was pretty elementary, like it should
have been in beginning. I assembled the taper attachment to the
lathe bed, gooped all the potential points of contact with white
out. Installed the clamp with the large washers from yesterday and
tightened everything up. Funnel in place, molten babbit in the handy
pouring cup, preheat everything insight and pour. Go the the grocery
store while things cool down. Come back to find everything works
like the book says. Just bolt it on and cut tapers, I
thought........ Well now it is truly fit to my lathe. Thanks for all
the help from you folks. Hope you didn't mind all the updates. It
only seemed fair to anyone that may need to do the same thing and
has my limited experience to work with. It was fun, but definitely
be careful. A shot glass full of this on your body would be brutal.
Ray (728) |
| Good work, Ray, I'm
going to ream out the babbit bearings on the countershaft for my 9"
SB and try fitting oilite bearings and a new shaft. I'm hoping that
will be easier than any other alternative. If that doesn't work, I
was thinking of using JB Weld (or other metal filled epoxy) as a
babbit replacement around the oilite bearings. Even after your
wonderful description and success with babbit I keep thinking
there's got to be something more modern to use, but babbit was
there, babbit worked and no reason it shouldn't continue to work. I
just don't know where one could purchase more babbit. Paul R. (732) |
| Taper
Attachment (Babbit) |
| Can someone
describe what the item 27, page 52, form# 922-D, part number 506x6,
in the SB parts manual is, where it's located and what it's used
for? The drawing looks like a block. The manual says it's Babbitt.
Chris (1566) |
| Chris, I saw that
too. Babbit is a metal mixture I believe of tin and lead. It is used
for bearings. A lot of old cars had babbit bearings for their main
bearings and probably on their rod bearings. These bearings from
what I can gather had to be poured in place, then bored to size. I
would believe that block of babbit in the SBL parts sheet is used to
recast the bearing in the lead screw holder. People can correct me
if I'm wrong. (1567) |
| Yes, I know what
Babbitt is. What I don't know is how SB is using it in this exploded
diagram. This item is part of the Taper attachment not the Lead
Screw. Chris (1568) |
| Chris, The
babbit is used in the right hand outer support of the taper
attachment. This allows South Bend Lathe to align the support more
easily. They simply overbore the hole in the outer support and when
the taper is mounted and paper washers fitted as dams, the babbit is
then poured into the bracket through one of the holes in the top of
the bracket. The result is a perfectly aligned bracket. Any excess
is filed flush with the surface and the bracket is then painted.
Webb (1569) |
| Chris, I would
guess that it might be used in the pivot point in the Taper
attachment. Not sure without my taper attachment to disassemble. Not
having my parts manual here at work, I guessed that you were
referring to was the lead screw support. (1570) |
| Yes,
that seems to solve my mystery. I thought I was missing something
but now I know I'm not. Chris (1571) |
| SB Taper
attachment part needed |
| I need the bracket
that holds/clamps a taper attachment slide to the bed on a 13" south
Bend. The Bracket that holds the collet rack to the bed will also
work. (2435) |
| Such brackets are
not actually all that hard to make - what you need to do is mill a
rectangular notch in the end of a piece of stock, then fixture it as
45 degree to the mill head (tilting the head is best) and mill a V
with the corner of a large endmill. Drill and tap the bottom for a
clamp screw, and you have a quite serviceable rear way clamp. User
the gearcover pivot bracket as a guide if you do not have anything
else that attaches to your lathe in this manner. Chris (2438) |
| Replacing taper
att. cross feed screw |
| A friend recently acquired a SB 13" with taper attachment.
He's been stripping it down cleaning it up. In doing so, he found
the cross slide nut screw worn enough he felt they needed to be
replaced. Cost of these is ridiculously high, so he grafted the new
screw into the existing shaft and made a new nut with a replaceable
bronze sleeve. He turned, bored and threaded the acme internal
threads in the bronze sleeve using a home-made threading tool.
Fitted the sleeve to a very close fit on the acme rod. Acme rod was
the "precision" stuff from McMaster-Carr, with a black finish. He
made a new cross slide nut to receive the bronze sleeve because the
original didn't have enough meat to allow boring out. The sleeve was
pressed into the new nut with an interference fit of 0.001", a
flathead screw was added as insurance. He reports total backlash is
0.003". To say the least, he is quite pleased with it all. Photos of
the graft between the screw and shaft and the new nut with sleeve
are posted in the Photos section: http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/lst?.dir=/SB13_Xslide_Sc
rew_Fix .src=gr .order= .view=t .done=http%3a To fix this URL,
because it will be broken, graft all the lines back together in an
editor then paste into your URL/Location box. Or, just go here:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/
Then click on PHOTOS, Then click on SB13_Xsl....
SB13_Xslide_Screw_Fix I'm posting this for him as he is lazy and a
bit of a bozo when it comes to signing himself on the group. He has
managed to sell and buy stuff on eBay, but cannot seem to fight his
way thru the Yahoo signin procedure. Go figure :-) Rick K. (3068) |
| Mounting a
Taper Attachment |
| I've come up with
(eBay) a complete taper attachment/saddle/(large dial) slides
assembly for a 9". Buying parted out stuff on eBay is a crap shoot,
so not too surprising the carriage shows what seems to me like huge
wear in the Vees (attached photo). What makes me think so is not
only the (1/16") steps at the base of the Vee as shown in the photo,
but wear marks from the inside Vee/Flat ways on the under side of
the saddle. When I rest this saddle on my bed/ways, it rides on the
inside ways as much or more than the outer Vees and oil on the rear
outer Vee isn't spread to a thin film when the saddle is slide over
the area. So, that saddle doesn't appear usable in its present
condition. I'm thinking of mounting the taper attachment on my
current saddle and using the crosslide from the taper attachment.
Here is my first question: I've read here that a taper attachment
has to be mounted at the factory, but I've not heard why. What are
the critical alignment aspects that would require this, or put
another way, that I'd have to do, to do it myself? There are two
dowels on the rear of the saddle that determine the alignment, with
the attachment held in place by two bolts. I'd guess that the
primary issue is parallelism of the attachment bottom slide/rod with
the bed in planes, horizontal and vertical. One plane (vertical),
distance away from the bed is fixed by the mounts. That leaves
horizontal, or elevation/height relative to the bed/ways. Couldn't I
align this plane using an indicator along the bed, indicating the
long flat surface of the bottom slide of the attachment? Then once
aligned, clamp the bolts, drill ream the holes and insert dowels
(these or new, larger ones if necessary)? The drilling and reaming
could be challenging for me in my shop, but other than that, this
doesn't seem like a factory required process. What am I missing?
Rick K. Attachment:
(image/jpeg) SaddleVee.jpg [not stored]
(3353) |
| Rick, I think your
observations and proposal seem true and good. I have a Heavy 10 with
a taper attachment, and it also uses two dowel pins for location. I
am guessing that what they do at the factory for alignment is very
much like what you describe. On my taper attachment, it looks like
the holes for the dowels were originally drilled all the way through
the taper attachment casting. If yours is similar, you may be able
to remove them, leaving a through hole. Once you have the attachment
indicated in for both height and slope, you can tighten the two
bolts and then use the through holes as guides for drilling new
dowel holes into the saddle casting. (For access to drilling, it may
be necessary to disassemble the pieces of the taper attachment after
bolting it in place). I'm not sure of the best procedure for
drilling/reaming. Maybe a transfer punch first, to get the hole
started. I would probably just use the biggest drill that fits
through the taper attachment hole on the first attempt, and then
ream or enlarge for the dowel pins if necessary. If I were doing
this, I would also call South Bend and ask the guy there if this
technmique sounded OK. Their number is 219-289-7771. Jon
(3356) |
| Randy Reynolds at
South Bend can give you the lowdown on this. An acquaintance of mine
recently mounted a taper to his 13. His experience encouraged me to
pick up a TA for my heavy 10. I just got it and have not mounted it
yet. It can be mounted by a HSM who can be patient and cautious. It
is pretty involved but doable. SB has a set of 6 page instructions
for the telescoping (form 1072) type of TA installation
instructions. Yours, I believe, is non telescoping and may be
another form #. The instruction call for alignment of all sliding
parts, and there related perpendicular mounting surfaces to within
.0005 (that is 3 zeros) parallelism. To achieve that some scraping
of various surfaces may be involved to get it right. Randy described
it more as "accurate careful filing". If you are an experienced
scraper then it shouldn't be too difficult to mount it up. For a
careful HSM it will be a learning curve, but I think doable if you
are careful and don't rush the job. I am willing to bet it will
require a considerable time investment to do it right. My friend is
retired and he still does not have it quite like it should. So he is
still working on it. I would expect several iterations of the
process will be required when I get to it. If you get a complete
mated taper attachment (screws, compound rest base, connecting bar,
TA assy, bed clamp, etc from one lathe) all these components might
possibly be in alignment such that your efforts may be reduced. You
might also have to remove and repour the babbit in the bed clamp You
go through the process of aligning everything and bolt it up tightly
to the back of the bed. The final step is to use the dowel holes in
the bed bracket as pilot holes to drill both the bed bracket and the
bed, then ream them to slight undersize of the dowel, and drive the
dowels into the bed. If your bed is already drilled then they won't
be in the correct location for this "new" taper attachment. You'll
have to drill an all new set of holes Mine is a complete set and my
lathe has never had a TA fitted, so I am in luck. I'll report my
efforts when I finish, but it will be attacked sometime in the
future. I'd like to send my bed back for a regrind sometime in the
future and may wait to mount it after that has been done.
(3361) |
| Mark,
excellent information. I had completely missed the babbitt in the
bed clamp. I'll call Randy Reynolds (Jon Spear provided phone #) for
that info. My TA is complete, including the saddle but the TA saddle
is so badly worn, I don't think its usable. My saddle has never been
drilled so I should be able to use the holes in the saddle bracket.
I'll may have to clean up the cross slide top sliding surfaces as it
is worn too, but I think that is doable. Rick
K.
(3362) |
| I might be way off
base on this one, but couldn't you have the worn ways scraped an
trued then shimmed back to the right elevation with something like a
turcite facing? how much sticktion does the taper way need to
function properly? I think that we have discussed this before, but I
am not sure... something like this is what I am thinking-
http://www.rakoinc.com/service.htm#Turcite
I got this link from a Google search, its not an endorsement. I
think that you would have to send it out to a machine scraping
service to have it done. They would be able to do the precision
drilling too I think. I am having looking into having a tailstock
repaired this way due to uneven wear on the ways. they quoted me
somewhere between $100-150. I have not taken it in yet. nuts
first. dennis (3363) |
| Thanks for the info
on turcite, I've bookmarked it. I'd heard of turcite before, but
didn't know much about it. Thru use of Google, I've located a local
machine tool rebuilder that does it, but I've noticed the sign
before of a rebuidling shop closer to me (must be others). I was not
considering this approach because I didn't know much about it and it
seemed more involved than just mounting the TA on my existing
saddle. (BTW, its the saddle Vee grooves that are worn on the TA
saddle, not the ways on my lathe.) Thinking out loud, to all of you:
The turcite would need to be usable (applicable) at a thickness of
about 1/16" as that is about the extent of wear in the saddle Vees.
Also, given that much wear, I wonder if the TA is even still in
alignment. There is no guarantee the saddle has worn downward and
maintained 0.0003" alignment or that it would be "in alignment" when
installed directly on my ways/bed. With the turcite application to
the TA saddle to fix the wear, the TA would need to be realigned to
my ways, in both axes, which would be just as much if not more work
than mounting it to my existing saddle. Comment? Rick K.
(3364) |
| I bought a Taper
attachment for my 9" S/B off e-bay for $300. I guess I lucked out as
it came from a school and was in pristine condition in fact i think
it had never been used. I mounted it on and never looked back since
and it works like a charm. The only thing I find is when I'l going
to use it, I just apply enough pressure to the locking arm nut (that
locks it in place on the ways) to hold it from moving. If I turn
this lock nut too tight then it partially grabs and thus puts
pressure on the clutch as you move down the cut. Took me a evening
of playing with it but it works fine.
(3366) |
| I just finished
installing a SBL taper attachment on my 13 SBL. I posted some info
about my experience on the Home Shop Board. Email me if you want to
chat more about what I went through. rick (3417) |
| What URL is the
"Home Shop Board"? Johnny (3433) |
| A month or so ago,
I bought a taper attachment off eBay, asked about how to mount it,
got good info, contacted SB for their instructions, got some help
locally, and now its all mounted, aligned and working beautifully.
Rick K. (3691) |
| This was an offlist
exchange, that I thought some here might find useful, or at least
hope so. Rick K. Attachment: (image/jpeg) IndicatingRear.jpg [not stored] Attachment: (image/jpeg)
IndicatingFront1.jpg [not stored] Attachment: (image/jpeg)
IndicatingFront2.jpg [not stored] (3708) |
| Home Made Taper
Attachment? |
| Has anyone made
their own taper attachment for the 9" Southbend? Johnny (3901) |
| Johnny: Check out
the projects section of this site, there is a description of a taper
attachment for a Myford that might give some good ideas.
http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/homepage.htm
I have also seen a couple of other sites on the net that show
fabricated taper attachments. you should try searching with "Google"
etc. Also have a look for a picture of an Atlas 10" taper
attachment, it is a workable design but much simpler than the SB
Part of my current project is to build a taper for a SB9 ( see my
previous post about the taper attachment slide block) that
incorporates a cross slide table, somewhat like the one sold by
Metal Lathe Accessories, with a long nose to pick up the taper
attachment. Pete (3903) |
| The Walter E.Burton
article on making a taper attachment was reprinted by Popular
Mechanics in their 1968 Do-It-Yourself Encyclopedia, volume 14
(under "tapers, lathe" (pp.2572-2576). It originally appeared in
Popular Mechanics, but I do not know which issue. The local library
had this edition of the PM DIY encyclopedia but, unfortunately,
replaced them with a newer edition. Perhaps your library is not so
quick to dispose of the "good" stuff. P.Isaac (3912) |
| There is a good
homemade taper attachment at another yahoo group called :
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mlprojects/
The taper attachment PDF file is at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mlprojects/files/Projects/
you might have to join the group to access the files area. I belong
to it and have gotten a lot of good ideas from some of the articles.
Dallas (3917) |
| I found this link
on another board
http://www.kinzers.com/don/MachineTools/taper_att/ (4242) |
| About taper
attachments |
| Now that I am armed
with the knowledge I need for a 5-C adapter, seems I need to find
plans, if available, for a taper attachment for my hvy 10! Tom
(4208) |
| Tom, A couple of
years ago I bought a taper attachment for my 9" SBL off e-Bay for
$230 . The other day I saw one go for $635. I don't imagine they've
increased in value so much as who's bidding on them. Maybe in the
summer time when folks are on holidays you might find a better deal
on the auction site than to build one? (4209) |
| Tom, I have been
in the group for some time but have never posted a message before.
There is an article in the Popular Mechanics Do-It-Yourself
Encyclopedia, volume 14 from 1968 titled "Lathe taper attachment
from stock materials". It starts on page 2572. The article describes
building one from cold rolled steel, angle iron, and drill rod (for
tracks). While the article is geared for the 9" lathe I would think
it could be adjusted to meet your need. I have the article and plan
to build one. I can't afford the ones I've seen for sale. Hope this
post proves helpful to you and others. Jim (4240) |
| Heavy 10 taper
attachment? |
| Just got a Heavy
10" S.B. lathe with a taper attachment. Is there an easy way to just
look at the taper attachment and cross slide and tell if you have a
plain or telescopic type taper attachment? The little information I
have on the lathe says all 9" had plain and 10" and above have
telescopic. Telescopic cross feed screw? what the heck does that
look like? Bob (4621) |
| Bob, On the Heavy
10, the telescopic cross slide screw is made in two pieces, and goes
all the way to the back of the taper attachment, where a thrust
washer and nut are fastened to its tip. As you turn the cross feed
handle, the nut will turn. If a previous owner replaced the
telescoping screw with a single- piece, short screw, then there
won't be anything at the back. If you want to turn tapers in such a
case, you will have to disconnect the cross feed mechanism in some
way. One way would be to undo the large hex sleeve that holds the
screw onto the saddle casting at the front of the cross slide. This
makes it work like the simpler taper attachment for the 9-inch
lathe. Jon (4629) |
| Jon, Your
explanation was perfect and I have the telescopic type cross slide
screw and the taper attachment works very well. Bob (4631) |
| Make it
yourself taper attachment |
| The cross slide is
a development of the Metal Lathe Accessories T-slot cross slide. I
redesigned the end to accommodate the plain taper attachment used on
the 9" and 10K South Bend lathes. I made a loose pattern and had 2
castings made several years ago. I don't think that it would fit on
a 10L without some modification. The gib was made in the same style
as the original, i.e. set screw straight gib. I was thinking of
making drawings available in the near future, but I want to finish
the design for a completely home brew taper attachment (as opposed to
an original SB) to go with it. I'd be interested to know, if there
would be enough interested in a "make it yourself" Taper Attachment
to warrant making drawings and castings available. Pete
(4835) |
| Pete Sounds like a
good idea. My saddle has the long end to use the taper attachment,
but no taper attachment came with the lathe. I cringe at just
thinking about the price of one from South Bend. Used is pretty
pricy too. Right now I really don't need one, the small projects
right now I believe using the compound would be good enough. What
ball park price would these castings be sold for? Would they also be
available machined? Alex (4836) |
| Pete, Sounds like a
great project! Keep us posted. I'm interested. Paul R. (4837) |
| Pete: Keep me
informed of the project as I would like to have a taper attachment
on my 9" model A. Randy
(4852) |
| I would also be
interested in drawings and castings. I also have a 9A that I need to
start a clean-up on. Fred
(4854) |
| Pete, I have a 10k
and would be interested in building a taper attachment. There is one
on eBay that is going off today but exceeding my immediate limits.
Robert (4877) |
| Robert, I don't
know what taper your looking at on e-bay but I bought one a couple
of years ago for around $360 and the one I see is at $260. I also
got the cross slide that you have to replace to use it. This would
be the hard part to make and the taper attachment is useless with
out it.
(4884) |
| The taper
attachment I was looking at is at this site
(ebay) Is there more to it than meet the eye. I have the
cross slide that has two bolt holes at the opposite side to bolt it
to. Maybe leaping before I know! Robert
(4885) |
| Robert, Are you
sure of your parts terminology. The taper attachment bolts to the
saddle. (maybe my parts terminology need corrected). The cross slide
is the part that sits on top of the saddle and the compound sits on
top of it. The one for the taper attachment sticks out probably over
6 inches from the saddle and has an elongated slot through the
center of it. The regular cross slide is square at the back. Tom
(4886) |
| My saddle is square
across the back. I believed that the bottom piece, from the eBay
picture, of the taper attachment would attach at this point. I do
have two bolt holes 3 1/2 inches apart. What would these be for? So
I guess that I need another saddle or can I make an extension from
my existing saddle to connect out the inches? necessary. PS: This is
out of my budget right now but I am open for future knowledge, that
is why I would be interested in making one. Robert (4888) |
| Robert, Your Saddle
seems like it would accept the taper attachment. That is what the
two bolt holes are for. Some of the saddles are also drilled for
dowel pins so the taper attachment can be taken off then remounted
with realigning it. This isn't the problem I think both of us are
trying to convey to you. The cross slide is different for the use of
a taper attachment. Also, the cross slide lead screw and nut are
different, than those for a standard cross slide. That is what the
previous poster is getting at. The item on e-bay doesn't include the
cross slide, that would be needed. I do sometimes see plans for a
taper attachment on e-bay. Also, I think if you do a search for
previous post on this subject, there are free plans somewhere on the
internet. From what I see of these plans, they add on an extension
of angle plate to the standard cross slide. I think some of the
larger lathes use this setup. Ok, look at e-bay item 1743463410 in
the south bend lathe section. This has the standard or regular cross
slide. Now look at item number 1744431492 in the same section. It
has the taper attachment setup. If you look at the back of the cross
slide, you will notice that the one for the taper attachment extends
probably 10 inches or more and tapers a bit beyond the bed. There is
a slot in the middle of this extension. If your cross slide has
this, then the other eBay item would work. If not, then you would
have to find another cross slide as such, and cross slide lead screw
plus the nut. I am not sure if just adding on an extension would
work. I think I'd look at the plans. Also, I would not feel left out
or handicapped to much without a taper attachment. Unless you plan
on doing large pipe threads, you can offset the tailstock to do long
tapers. Tom (4889) |
| Tom, is there a
simple technique for offsetting the tail stock or an explanation
somewhere? How far is it moveable? Robert
(4891) |
| Robert, There is a
formula for doing this. I don't remember it totally, but its
something like the Diameter closest to the head stock minus the
diameter closest to the tailstock over the length of the part. I
don't know if I'll be able to find this formula tonight when I go
home. And I'll be leaving soon. Basically, the tailstock has a set
screw on both sides. Assuming the tailstock is centered, you put a
dial indicator on the side of the part and loosen up the screws to
the tail stock. You really want the small end of the taper towards
the tailstock (its been awhile since I had to do this). Move the
tailstock towards you the amount derived in the formula. (I'd only
loosen the front screw). Move the tailstock towards you with the
rear set screw that amount. Now take a cut. Not all the way to depth
though. Mic the diameter at the start and end of the cut. Also
measure its length. Do the trig and see if the angle is correct. If
not, put back on the dial indicator and adjust the tail stock in or
out to correct this. Remember to tighten the setscrew that you
adjusted the tailstock with before doing any cutting. Once you get
the tapper you want, turn to diameter. The main problem with this
method is that if you are doing a bunch of parts, their length and
any ID chamfer on the end must be the same or you will have to
adjust the tailstock offset for each one. I think I was just doing
about an 1/8 taper over 16-18 inches. I'm not sure of the amount of
taper capacity. It would vary some to the length of the part as to
the angle, but the diameter capacity wouldn't change. Maybe someone
else has a bit more experience with this. I'm headed for home now.
Tom (4892) |
| Robert, On mine I
have a cover over the feedscrew that bolts on right there. Dave
(4897) |
| Robert, before I
had the taper attachment I would just loosen the two set screws on
the compound rest , set what angle I wanted and taper from there,
just with the compound. Or I would put in a gizmo I have with a no 2
morse taper that fits into the tailstock I have two of these, one I
made and the other a English custom one with a level and various
fine tune degree settings. Of course using this offset method you
still have to use a faceplate, lathe dogs etc. but still faster than
resetting the tail stock after your job is done. Here is the process
I do when using my custom SB taper attachment. I remove the vertical
bolt that is directly in front and on the cross slide. This bolt
goes through the cross-slide and into the brass cross feed nut. I then
put a small wooded plug in the hole to keep out the swarf. I then
figure out and set my taper, lock the taper attachment tight to the
ways, set my cutting tool so it just touches the work at zero
degrees, then tighten up the lever nut that tightens the crosslide
to the top slider of the taper attachment. See Robert, the only way
to set your cutting tool is with the compound once you have removed
the crossfeed nut bolt as now the cross slide is (floating) to the
whim of the top part of the taper attachment as the bottom is locked
to the ways. (4898) |
| Smallest Lathe
with Taper Attachment? |
| I just acquired a
very nice 9 inch A model. I would like a taper attachment for it. Is
such a thing available, or is it easier to find a needle in a
haystack? Jim (8932) |
| There
are probably a few available. If nothing else you could build
one. There are some free plans available. I know I have 1 or 2 plans
for taper attachments. If you email me off list I will send the plans
to you. Congratulations on your lathe. Bill C.
(8934) |
| I'm terribly
sorry, seems I have lost the file for the taper attachment. I had a
problem with hackers a little while back and had some groups wiped
out. The files were stored there and are no longer available. I know
they are to be found some where but only God knows where they could
be. I will try my best to find them for you because I don't want to
be labeled as a liar. Have a little patience and I will try to find
them. Guess I should have check my archives before I spoke. Bill C.
(8937) |
| I tried to
upload the file but there is not enough room for the file. I will
upload it to the following URL.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Prints_and_Plans/
It will be in a file called Lathe Tooling. If anyone else is
interested you can find the file there. Bill C.
(8941) |
| Jim, As pointed
out, there are plans to make a taper attachment. Originals or after
market units do show up from time to time on E-Bay. I would say they
generally cost about $300 for the 9/10K version. I would think about
making one as they don't look to complex. Tom (8944) |
| Bill Collins was
gracious enough to recently post plans for a taper attachment on the
Prints and Plans group (thanks Bill). Has anyone constructed this
item, or one similar and can offer any insight? Any limitations over
manufacturer supplied units??? The plans, published originally in
Popular Mechanics, date from the early 60's. With advances it
technology and availability of other materials, could any of our
resident experts offer advice with respect to updated construction
modifications? Fred
(9006) |
| Stiff Taper
Turning Attachment on Heavy 10 |
| When
using the taper turning attachment on my Heavy 10 longitudinal
saddle movement becomes unacceptably stiff towards the tailstock end
of the slides. In practice only about 2/3 rds of the taper turning
travel can be used by anyone with mechanical sensitivity. Completely
backing off the gib strip running on the allows slightly freer
travel but its still not acceptable. I have removed the assembly,
cleaned and lubricated everything and carefully set up the gib
strips with the unit off the machine to give a nice sliding movement
with a hint of resistance, but not so much as to stop the taper
attachment bed moving under its own weight. My guess is that the tie
rod is not quite lying truly parallel to the bed causing the inner
side of the taper attachment bed to tighten up in the bed bracket as
it moves towards the tie rod bracket. The machine has previously
been serviced by "Bozo Man" who, among other infelicities put both
cross feed screw ball thrust units on the inner end of the screw!
Given this history are there any non-obvious adjustments that can be
made or must I assume that Bozo has bent something a fraction giving
permanent misalignment. If so the only cure I can think of is to
open up the hole in the tie rod bracket at the tailstock end and
make up some special thrust washers so the arm can float a fraction
in the casting allowing the taper attachment bed to take up its
proper position. Theoretically I suppose one could shim the
attachment fitting flange on the saddle to remove the error but I
suspect the error here would be less than a thou' which is too small
for shimming to be practical. Has anyone any better ideas before it
take the irreversible step of opening up the hole? Clive
(9473) |
| I am somewhat of a
newbie, but perhaps you could true up the rod between centers, or at
least discover if a bent rod is the problem. Bob
(9474) |
| Clive, I have a
set of instructions for setting up a new taper attachment on the 9
inch and 10K machines. Although not specific to the Heavy Ten lathe,
most of the procedures and set up checks would be the same (or at
least similar). I have uploaded scans to ours sister BBS (SouthBendLathePix)
in the files section in the folder: "Taper Installation Instr." Here
is a link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/files/Taper%20Installation%20Instr./
Check it out and see if it helps. Webb
(9482) |
| I just
posted a larger version of page 6 of the taper installation
instructions. The measurements are still "muddy" and hard to read
but I make them out to be (in Fig. 3) Rear "Vee" to Machined Flat on
Saddle: 1 9/32", Bottom of Dovetail to Screw Center: 57/64", Center
Line of Saddle to Center of Screw: 1 3/4" The 57/64" is VERY hard to
read on the original and I may have got this one wrong. Take a look
at the diagram and see for yourselves:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/files/Taper%20Installation%20Instr./SBL%20Taper%20Inst-6A.jpg
Webb (9493) |
| Webb I agree
with your dimensions. Thanks a bunch for posting this set of
instructions. They came at the perfect time for me. Jim (9507) |
| I just purchased a
copy of SBL form 1072 " instructions for fitting the taper
attachment" from Randy Phillippe for $15.00. If the taper attachment
was not original equipment on your lathe it is a very complex
installation procedure for the heavy 10. There are a number of
places in the installation process where you need to check alignment
with an indicator and scrape mounting surfaces if the parts are not
aligned. I would recommend getting this or better yet try and get it
from LeBlond since some of the pictures in the copy are hard to make
out. I purchased the taper attachment to add on to my heavy 10 and
quickly discovered that the mounting pin holes are not even drilled
in the saddle unless it was installed at the factory.
(9508) |
| Fortunately my taper attachment
is obviously OE. All my problems with the lathe appear to be due to
"Bozo service man" combining an IQ significantly less than room
temperature with a habit of discarding anything he did not
understand! Extra special thanks to Ray Mihailof for supplying the
answer in an off group post. The tiebar is cast into the the tie rod
bracket using babbitt metal with everything mounted on the lathe
ensuring proper alignment. My bracket is far too loose on the tie
rod for it still to be properly cast in so Bozo has obviously
unscrewed it and on refitting the clearances are just enough to
upset the alignment. Re-casting will fix it. Classic SouthBend
cleverness and low cunning to get a simple answer to a difficult
problem. Clive
(9518) |
| 9A Taper
attachment ? |
| On the Taper attachment bed clamp top casting is a small knurled
head pin fitted into a counterbored hole and retained by a cotter
pin. It is loose and serves no obvious purpose in this location and
does not appear needed in operation of the Taper Attachment. What is
the purpose of this pin? It does not appear in the parts/assembly
list I have. My lathe is 9A lathe 1946 build and I assume all the
accessories that came with it were bought at the same time. The
attached picture shows the head of pin. RichD Attachment:
(image/jpeg) TaperAtt-01.jpg [not stored]
(11104) |
| This is only a do
nothing decoration that some one made. You may throw it away.
(11105) |
| Well, a lot
of other folks just happened to do the exact same thing. The pic was
from Ebay and matches mine. Perhaps Rose can shed some light on it.
(11106) |
| Rich- My
illustrated breakdown says that "when using taper attachment,
replace the crossfeed nut screw with this plug to keep out chips".
Rose Marvin
(11118) |
| Rose, Now that's
amazing!! South Bend thinks of everything and looks after its own.
Wow! The answer was obvious after all, but if you don't
know. I have been using masking tape to cover the screw
hole. RichD
(11124) |
| Homemade taper
attachment for 9" SBL |
| Has anyone had any
luck making a taper attachment for their small Southbend lathe? If
so could you post a picture of it?
(11960) |
| Jim: Check our post
4242. Gary (11970) |
| Gary! That
link was just the ticket. Easy to make too. (11983) |
| Saw this posting
and wanted to offer some of my experience. After asking others if
anyone had had any success with the 1962 P.M. plans (with no
responses), I went forward with the project. The plans are not
complete for a 9" S.B., even though that's the unit shown in the
article, but a little common sense will easily get one by. No
solutions are offered for a quick disconnect of the cross feed,
which has no be accomplished in some manner. I remove the crossfeed
nut My problem came after completion. Larger taper angles will cause
the upper guide block to bind, risking damage to the lathe during
power feed cuts. I was told by an "Old Timer" that the S.B. factory
taper attachments also suffered the same binding problem at greater
taper angles. I am currently in the process of producing a longer
guide block to hopefully minimize torsional binding. This type of
project really isn't rocket science and screams for a new millennium
update with decent roller bearings as opposed to lapped in guide
blocks. It would make this project easier, more effective and more
accurate than guide blocks. Hhhhhm. My last Home Shop Machinist was
looking pretty skinny last time. Maybe.
(12092) |
| Anyone
contemplating making a taper turning attachment would do well to
investigate the use of industrial guide rails with ball bearing
slides instead of the traditional dovetail rail and lapped block.
Such units are remarkably inexpensive these days and very accurate
so its worth looking to see how the price / performance / work
involved equation works out. I was going to make my taper turner for
the 9" C this way but a fully equipped Heavy 10 turned up making the
idea redundant so I have no practical experience. Sorry. Have a look
at http://www.hiwin.com/ to get some idea of what is out there. Hiwin are relatively inexpensive (in the UK) but there are many
other suppliers. (If you do decide to go this route don't be tempted
to use the round bar versions as all the add on stuff needed for
installations destroys the initial price advantage over the flat
bars.) Clive (12101) |
| 10K vs 9"
Taper Attachment Difference |
| I just bought a
taper attachment (minus the cross slide, feed screw and nut) for a
10K lathe thinking that it would also fit a 9". I got the attachment
today and it was exactly as advertised. I went to fit it on and
found that there are two pins on the attachment that should fit in
the saddle, but I don't have the holes for the pins. The pins are
outboard and slightly above the bolt holes. It looks like the bolt
holes that would bolt it to the saddle line up. I can probably
remove the pins and it should bolt right up (I think), but I hate to
mess with stock parts being that they're so hard to come by. Dave (12301) |
| Dave, If I read you
correctly, the dowel pin holes are not drilled into the saddle at
the TA attachment surface. I suspect your lathe was not ordered with
a TA, therefore it was not fitted to one. After bolting on the new
TA, line it up and line drill the pin holes with a final reaming to
exact size. Tap in the pins. So, there you go! RichD (12303) |
| Dave, Don't fret,
your part is fine. The taper attachments were fitted at the factory
with pins to realign them to the machine they were fitted to. This
is so they could taken off and put back on without having to realign
the attachment. I'm not sure why you would take off a taper
attachment in the first place. Someone else might have better
instructions, but the part with the ways they remain stationary need
to be level with the bed. Tom (12304) |
| Rich, Got it. I
never thought about the saddle being different, only the cross
slide. My concern was that the 10K attachment was somewhat different
than the 9". I think I can manage this just fine now that I know.
Dave
(12305) |
| The taper
attachment was originally factory fitted to the lathe it came from.
The pin holes were drilled and reamed through the attachment and
lathe at the same time.
(12319) |
| Jim, Wow. Exactly
what I needed. I didn't realize that that file existed.
Dave
(12330) |
| Taper
attachment usage question |
| I'm still in
restoration mode and hence "latheless", so this question is kinda
moot, but I'm curious. When using a taper attachment, one must
obviously "disable" the cross slide lead screw. How is this normally
done ? Alan (12780) |
| Alan: Two different
styles of Taper Attachments that both work differently. First type
is "Plain" (or NON-Telescoping ). On this type you must remove the
small screw that bolts the cross feed nut to the cross slide. Now as
Taper Attachment starts to slide on Swivel Bar since it is
physically attached to Cross slide it will push or pull cross slide
in or out without turning of Cross slide screw. Second type is
Telescoping Taper Attachment which features a keyed (or slotted
)cross feed screw that can telescope or slide into the cross feed
bushing. Once again as Taper Attachment starts to slide on swivel
bar since it physically bolted to Cross Slide it can push or pull
Cross Slide in or out ( with screw actually telescoping inside of
Cross Slide Bushing ) without having to turn Cross Feed Screw. Hope
this explanation is not too confusing but if you can see pictures of
both styles it will become easy to understand. Ron
(12781) |
| On my 10k the nut
is held onto the saddle by a bolt that one removes. Then the nut
floats free and the saddle can be pushed by the taper attachment.
Frank (12788) |
| Crossfeed
Screw for Taper Attachment? |
| Can anyone tell me
what the difference is in the crossfeed screw for a Taper equipped 9"
SB lathe as opposed to a non-taper lathe? Also, can a non-taper
screw be modified to work with a taper? Also, what about the nuts?
BK
(13324) |
| I had asked the
same question also, and I received some excellent answers from the
folks in this forum which I confirmed later during the installation
of my taper attachment. The crossfeed screw is the same. The nut is
different. I bought parts of my taper attachment for my 9" Model A
from several different sources. I got the nut for a non-taper
attachment crossfeed screw to fit my cross slide for the taper
attached lathe simply by carefully grinding down the sides of the
nut to fit the taper of the saddle, then slowly filing down the
cylindrical portion of the nut until it fit nicely under the cross
slide. I drilled and tapped the nut for a 5/16" X 18 Allen head
screw. The screw has to be fitted to the crossfeed so that it's not
too deep. It also has to fit within the depression of the crossfeed.
It works like a champ. I also turned a piece of nylon stock I had
down to fit the hole for when I'm using the taper attachment so that
the swarf doesn't enter the hole (you remove this screw to disengage
the crossfeed. It's sized so that the compound will slide over it,
and is much wider than the hole to protect it better. It's not
threaded or anything, I just wanted to cover that hole. I can send a
picture and/or measurements if you're interested. Dave (13325) |
| I'd like to see
some pictures as well. Perhaps you could u/l to the files section?
Dumitru (13329) |
| I'm attaching a
couple of pictures of what I was talking about. I neglected to
mention that the nut I used was a new nut that was finished in the
rough by Dennis Pantazis. The acme threads were cut, and the general
shape was there, but I had to finish it myself. But the good news is
that I compared the body of the nut for a non-taper attachment cross
slide and it is practically the same (probably better as I also had
to rough cut the sides of mine). One only has the cut off the barrel
(that goes up into the cross slide to fit and drill/tap what you
have left. I used a 12" disk sander to slowly get the barrel down to
the right height. The plug I made out of some plastic (nylon I
think) stock I had lying around the largest portion is about 1 3/32"
in diameter and about 9/32" high. The next step is about 3/8"
diameter and 5/32" high, and the smallest step is about 9/32"
diameter and 5/16" high. I tried out my scissor-style knurler on
the largest portion just for fun. I only gave rough dimensions as I
think you should measure the hole in your cross slide to make sure
it will fit. After removing the screw from the cross slide just
stick this plug in to protect your feedscrew and nut from swarf.
Nothing fancy, but it worked for me. I've thoroughly enjoyed my
taper attachment. The first project I made was the lock down lever
for the taper attachment/cross slide. I'm attaching a picture of all
three in one frame. Not fancy, but again, it certainly works for
me. Dave
(13346) |
| No Taper set
drawings |
| Sorry I don't have
any drawings or blueprints for it. Is is a custom factory built
tool. (13395) |
| The cheap and easy
way to do it is to use a 2" boring head fitting it with the optional
2MT shank. And then there is a slightly smaller head from H.F. that
comes with a 2MT, 3MT and a 1/2 straight for $69. If you want to
make your own there are several drawing sets around all over the
web. JWE (13396) |
| Perhaps Mr. J. W.
Early could post a picture of this, (tool)?
(13401) |
| Here is a quick
example. There are better and fancier but this will do the job. You
put any type of center in one of the holes in the head and you can
then dial in the offset you want with the dial on the side the same
as when you use the same tool for boring holes in the mill or
mounted in the tool post and used for turning balls and sockets as a
over the top radius turning tool. The earliest example I have found
published about using an offsetting center for taper turning was in
a 1908 Model Engineer and many times since in every machining
related magazine. JWE (13403) |
| Although it's not
same, there is a similar tool in the files section of the forum, go
to "Homemade Tooling" and to SMOffsetcenter.pdf by Bill Collins.
It's a very interesting and simple design that although I have a
taper attachment, I am still interested in duplicating due to the
ease of use. Dave
(13404) |
| I also forgot to
mention that this taper set has a live end. Another reason I like it
is it's precise, fast, simple and if you write down the marking to
the thou, then next time you do the same job, it's just a matter of
checking the book, set it to the mark via it's dial indicator and
your away. I also made one from a set of plans with no live end and
no dial indicator. It does the job after a fashion but with a lot
more hassle and head work. I guess it boils down to what a man can
afford and is satisfied with. I've watched men whittle with an axe
and do a dam fine job.
(13405) |
| Has no one ever
looked at their boring head, you can dial them to a precision of
.0005. As to rotating centers all you need is a cheap double row
bearing or two single row bearings, a simple shank and a hardened
point. The point is what he has is a very fancy boring head without
the boring head capabilities. I have a $100 boring head which works
great as a boring head in the mill with the R8 shank and the lathe
with the 2MT shank with 2 to 3MT adaptor, The lathe tailstock as a
taper turning attachment and boring tool with the 2MT shank and in
the tool post as a inside/outside radius turning tool for turning
inside and outside radii with the 3/4" straight shank. One tool of
high quality that with some simple low cost accessories do the job
of two other tools of equal or greater cost to it as well as its own
designed job. Tools like the one illustrated are going to be more
costly to make and sell because their market is more limited. What
has brought the cost of the Criterion boring heads down is their
ability to do additional jobs with easy adaptation thus increasing
sales potential and lowering costs through more economical
production methods. JWE (13410) |
| Wow Now that is
what I call extreme setover. JWE (13427) |
| That is
interesting. Notice the dead center looks like a ball joint. dp
(13430) |
| I've looked over
this thread and came to the sudden realization that there is a lot
of differences in skill levels in this forum (duh). I don't think
some of us have met this realization yet. Me, I figure I'm early in
the elementary school level. Others have their Masters (or higher).
I have no one I can turn to to ask questions, heck, I don't even
know the questions to ask. I took one metal shop class 15 years ago
in Alaska, but that only got me familiar with the general workings
of a lathe and gave me the bug to buy one when I could afford it. I
do all the reading I can do, but I can't find a course offered any
where around me. Some folks give out general advice thinking
everyone has the same level of expertise that they have and can
follow along with what they're saying. I guess I'm kind of tired of
feeling ignorant, and I guess I'm just venting. I kind of feel the
same way as when my computer takes a crap and I ask the advice of a
technician. After shelling out $60 for the 10 minutes it took him to
fix it, he said he just had to fix my bios, or something (what the
hell is your bios? - redundant question). I grab what information I
find and try to run with it. Sometimes it works, sometimes it
doesn't. With the old South Bend, it always just seems to cost me
money (big money at that). Got me a taper attachment for the bargain
price of about $300. Now I find that I can buy a cheap boring head
for a helluva lot less than that and accomplish the same thing. I've
seen boring heads in catalogs, but had no idea that they could be
used that was. I've got a milling attachment, and a drawbar, but
damned if I know where to buy the correct mill holder to fit the
5/8" X 26" internal thread of the draw bar. No where in the MANY
catalogs I've ordered and received. So if I finally get the darned
mill holder WHAT KIND OF MILL DO I WANT TO START LOOKING
FOR????!!!!! I know it's probably dependent on what I'm milling,
but damn, there's got to be some generalities or something. I've
tried to be a good member of this forum. I've offered up stuff, sent
stuff out to members without asking for payment of any kind, I've
posted stuff that got people all kind of ticked off (don't even
think about scanning something copyrighted and offering it for free
to this forum to be used as a library, I tried - even after talking
to Rose and getting the ok for certain publications, and was pretty
much talked down to). Folks, think about it, some of the stuff that
is so simple to you, is darned complicated to some of us; or at
least just me. And I'm not stupid. I'm active duty Coast Guard and I
run an engineering department with about a dozen guys. I can't tell
you some of our current projects, but I'll tell you that they
involve improving Homeland Security and are quite ingenious. Another
project involves improving the electrical power distribution to a
communications center utilizing the backup a backup emergency
generator and large UPS and changing the wiring in a building built
in 1934 to modern standards. I use people's skills and weaknesses in
order to get a mission accomplished. And I ask questions. I keep my
boats and cutters running, my buildings in good repair, and I'm a
darned successful Coastie with almost 30 years in. But I AIN'T A
MACHINIST, even as much as I'm wanting to learn. OK, I think I'm
finished venting. I could say a lot more, but I'm already dreading
the flak that's going to come of what I've already said. I guess I'd
like to offer some advice. If you have a way of doing something that
seems simple to you, be prepared to become the teacher of us
ignoramuses. I meant no offense to anyone,
but I'm tired of tiptoeing. Dave
(13431) |
| Dave I read your
letter and i agree with you some of the old timers are a bunch of
snobs its easier to insult rather than teach when I was an
apprentice i was told to sweep the floors during slow periods i
stopped to watch an old timer who was building a project and when he
saw me he literally stooped over the work and folded his hands
around the project because i was watching him and trying to learn
and not sweeping i guess you have to learn to sweep for 15 years
before they will teach you anything, so I'm a master sweeper that's
the old way of doing things - slavery for many years before you are
taught anything and then teach you so slowly - most anything can be
learned rather quickly and then practice makes perfect anyway you
stated that you bought a $300 taper attachment and then found out
that you could do the same thing with a $100 boring head WRONG yes
you can do SOME things with a boring head but not all things you can
turn short tapers on the ends of a shaft but you cant turn a taper
in the middle of a shaft you also cant turn female tapers especially
when you need both the male and female to mate perfectly give me a
taper attachment any day over a boring head. fred (13433) |
| How do you ensure
that the boring head is at 90 degrees to the bed? Although, I guess
that the sine error would be pretty small even if it was just
'pretty close'. C.S.
(13437) |
| Well said Dave.
I'm in the same boat. I didn't just escape from the swamps a week
or two ago, and I know I'm not dumb, but I've felt like that
sometimes... The boring head stuff was a revelation, and doesn't
appear in any of the books, even the highly recommended stuff, that
I bought to try to learn... Having said that, I think I've learned a
lot from this list, but know there are some clever fellas out there
who could teach the likes of me and you and a few others, an awful
lot. Len Smith No Taper set drawings I've looked over this thread
and came to the sudden realization that there is a lot of
differences in skill levels in this forum (duh). I don't think some
of us have met this realization yet. Me, I figure I'm early in the
elementary school level. Others have their Masters (or higher).
(13442) |
| Dave, Setting here
reading what you and Fred have to say about learning to be a
machinist. I agree there are quit a few of the oldtimers that were
snobs. Not all. I guess I was lucky I grew up in a farm welding and
machine shop. We had some old machines, But there wasn't much we
couldn't fix. I guess that is why I still like the old machines. If
you go to (southbend pix.) I have pictures of my main machines that I
make a living with, they are all a lot older then I. The use of a
boring head as a off set is a new one on me. A taper attachment
would be a lot easier to use and a whole lot more accurate. I off set my
tail stock to turn tapers. My SB is so old they don't make a taper
attachment for it. Dave, you are in the Coast Guard, don't you have
machinist Mates or machine repairmen, if you do they should be able
to help you out a bunch. I have a lot of books that I use for
reference, and I use them a lot. I have been at this for many years
and am still learning. The only dumb question is one not asked. The
dumbest person in the world knows something I need to learn. Ask, I
will be as clear as possible. I have train people in the millwright
trade for some 35 yr. Duane
(13465) |
| Telescoping
taper attachment |
| For those
interested in a telescoping taper attachment for any S.B. lathe I
have an article in the Jan./Feb.2004 issue of Homeshop Machinist
page 48. This was written for the 9" and light 10 but applies to all
S.B lathes as the principal is the same. To the best of my knowledge
S.B. never offered this option for the two small lathes. If you just
want a conventional taper attachment use the same dimensions and
delete the telescoping part.
(16806) |
| Part for taper
attachment |
| I am in need
of the part that clamps on the bed of a 14 1/2" lathe and has a hole
for the tie rod that attaches to the taper attachment. I don't know
what the part number is for this part. It is a heavy casting. I
would appreciate any help for procuring this part. Buddy
(16972) |
| Buddy: Can you post
a dimension from the center of the Vee way to the center of the Tie
Rod on the taper attachment (these two points are not on the same
plane but just measure that distance on the angle). I have a Unit
from a 13" SB that might be close. There is some wiggle room as you
set Taper Attachment and attach this clamp to bed and around Tie Rod
and then pour babbit in clamp to form "bushing" around Tie Rod. Ron
(16975) |
| Parts list shows a
different number for each size lathe. The 14.5" is no longer
available. Looks like you may have to fabricate one. JP (16992) |
| JP I thought
that someone might have one lying around. Or there was a guy up East
somewhere (I can't remember where) that had a small foundry and
fabricated these old parts. Do you or anyone else know who this
was? Buddy
(17000) |
| There is Metal
Lathe Accessories in PA that sells kits for the SB9" accessories
that he designs himself. He has the castings done by the Amish there
but I haven't seen a taper attachment in his catalog. He does nice
work but not SB original parts. LeBlond sent patterns to Taiwan to
get castings made a while back and the patterns were destroyed. Try
Rose at Southbend and see if she can help you. Otherwise measure
carefully and fabricate one up. There is a picture of them in the SB
parts list, it clamps to the rear way. JP
(17005) |
| Buddy: I asked you
for a measurement as I might be able to help you out. Ron (17009) |
| Taper Turning
Attachment |
| A question about the
SB taper turning attachment. I'm thinking about sinking some holes
on my attachment for common taper angles such as MT2, MT3 and JT6 so
I can put some dowel pins in them for quick setup for turning the
tapers. Is this advisable given the possibility that there may be
some misalignment each time the attachment was removed and
replaced? Has anyone done any mods like this to a taper turning
attachment, what would you recommend. Peter
(17914) |
| Peter, I can
understand your wanting for a quick set up on your taper turning,
but to drill holes into it? I wouldn't do that. Are you aware there
are numbers to either end of your taper attachment? To the far right
and left are numbers and lines to ensure you always line-up your
machine every time. To the right are numbers and lines which
indicate "Taper in Inches" To the left are numbers and lines which
indicate "Taper in Degrees" I think there is a way you can use these
lines and numbers to your advantage and eliminate any need to alter
your attachment in any way. I'm kind of hoping I misunderstood your
question, let me know if this was any help. Philip (17917) |
| Philip You
understood correctly! It does sound silly at first but setting up
Morse Tapers using the numbers and angles is a bit time consuming
since the tapers aren't easy ratios. I saw this idea on a home made
attachment and thought it was a good idea, the holes I mean.
Probably not then. Peter (17919) |
| Peter, I've tried turning morse tapers on
my 10L with taper attachment too. I got close but not as good as
I'd like. After getting it set correctly how about scribing a line
where the top piece pivots on the bottom piece over most of the
length? It would be easy to see if you were on it or not.. I can't
see drilling a hole for a screw as being too accurate. Maybe a taper
pin or the like? Joe
(17920) |
| Joe, I'd use dowel
pins or taper pins not a screw. As you point out the angle scales
aren't easy to set by eye so you'd resort to using a DTI and a test
taper to set up the attachment accurately. I guess once you've done
it a few times you get used to it and setup time is reduced.
Scribing a line is a good idea, depends on your eyesight.
Peter. (17922) |
| Rather than
drilling holes in your taper attachment I saw a much better idea in
a British publication that used an attached micrometer head acting
against a post mounted on the moveable part of the taper attachment.
I can't find my copy of this manual that covers all types of ideas
and tools for the amateur machinist. Once you find the angle you are
looking for you can just dial in the micrometer setting for the
angle you want. Also great for tweaking in the original taper
setting. If anyone is interested in the name of the publication
e-mail me and I will take the time to find my copy. Walt (17930) |
| Walt, I would be
interested in knowing which publication. It wasn't perchance Model
Engineers Workshop? If so what issue? Fred (17931) |
| I think a few of us
would be interested. When you find it, please post the info to the
group. Rick (17932) |
| Speaking of
tapers |
| On my 10" Southbend
I have a factory taper attachment. I've never used it because I
can't figure out how to release the cross slide so that it will move
freely with the taper attachment engaged. All I can see to do is to
pull the screw out of the cross slide body so that it slides on its
own. However, this takes "forever" to do and I can't see doing it
with work mounted in the lathe. Is there a hidden release or
half-nut on the cross slide somewhere that I overlooked? Rob P.
(17933) |
| No releases, just screw down the handle in the
slot and clamp the part to the bed. It then moves it in and out.
It's tight as you mentioned though. For a test, clamp the piece to
the bed, tighten the lock on the top and with both hands move the
carriage left and right and you'll see the cross slide move in and
out. That's assuming the taper attachment is not on zero. Joe
(17939) |
| Rob: Easiest way to
tell you how to operate Taper attachment is to do the following:
1---Set taper in degrees or inches on scale. 2-- Tighten Tie Rod
Bracket on V- Ways (that is the clamp affair that sits on V-Ways
and attaches to Taper Attachment through the Tie Rod) VERY
IMPORTANT!!! 3---Tighten Binding Lever (the lever that sits on top
of the connecting cover or as I like to call it the Cross-slide Way
Guide Cover) 4-- Check with indicator (by calculation) that taper
is correct 5--Start cutting Your machine should feature what they
call a "Telescoping Style" Taper Attachment. You will see no
movement
of your crossfeed dial as taper is followed but what is happening is
that screw is actually sliding up inside the mechanism that makes up
your Crossfeed dial and its housing. That is the best explanation I
can give in "Layman's Terms". Ron
(17941) |
| You will see no
movement of your crossfeed dial as taper is followed but what is
happening is that screw is actually sliding up inside the mechanism
that makes up your Crossfeed dial and its housing. That is the best
explanation I can give in "Layman's Terms" This is what I understand
is to happen when using the taper attachment, BUT in order to do
this the cross slide HAS TO BE free enough for the taper attachment
to push/pull the slide as it travels. That means that I should be
able to push the cross slide towards the back of the machine by hand
which is impossible (or if it DID happen something is broken
somewhere) since the cross slide has to be solidly attached to its
leadscrew. So, somehow the leadscrew and the slide body have to be
"disconnected" from each other for the taper attachment to work.
That "how" has me baffled. Rob P. who is wondering if there's a way
to get the taper attachment users manual documentation into the
archives along with the how-to install the attachment.
(17943) |
| Rob: First off you
cannot push or pull cross-slide when attached to Taper Attachment.
Lock up V-Way Clamp, mount indicator on front of saddle (just in
front of crosslide dial) and put it on compound. You only have to
move slightly (not even 1/8") and you will see dial indicator start
to move towards you. I have the installation manual but unfortunately
am on dial -up and it is too large to send. Ron
(17945) |
| Rob: Send me your
Snail Mail address off group and I will send you a photo-copy of my
photo-copy of the Taper Attachment Installation Manual. If you are
on cable service maybe you can post to group files. Ron
(17948) |
| Mass producing
parts without a hydraulic taper attachment |
| I am to
make about 12 or so candle sticks all being the same in every way.
Does anyone have any ideas on how I can do this? Maybe somehow
attach a pattern to my taper attachment? Philip
(19794) |
| There attachments
for wood lathes that do this. Perhaps is you looked at a wood
working catalog (Delta makes one called a "lathe duplicator". Its
ITEM # 46-408 at Woodworker Supply
www.woodworker.com It consists
if a template that the tool follows. If you could make a template
for your taper attachment and get the cross feed to follow it, that
would be a similar approach. Jim B.
(19795) |
| Jim, somewhere in
the archives a couple years ago there was a blurp about this. Duane
(19797) |
| Great starting
point Jim! Philip
(19799) |
| Longest normal
taper cut on 9"/10" SBL? |
| I acquired a couple
of linear rails with slides and wondered what the longest taper is
normally cut on a 9 to 10" SBL? With the low price a taper
attachment commands and finding one for my 9" Junior - 18" c-c, add
a few extra $! The rails are about 1" square and the sliders about
3" sq. Plenty of room for an attachment to the cross slide. Figured
on cutting the rail in half and attaching to piece of 1/4' - 1/2"
bar stock. Then pivot both to another piece attached to lathe bed. I
would have about 6 to 7" of travel for tapering. Want to make it
wide enough to do the 40 taper: 3.5" per 12". Idea rattling around
is to make flip over standards/jigs to do tapers: MT2, MT3, and the
40 along with the variable. 40 taper - I've been looking at
modifying Joe Romig's concrete horiz MT2 mill from the 1920's PMSN.
Suggestions, comments always welcome now that I have a tad of
knowledge and am considered dangerous. Bob (20050) |
| Bob, The standard
taper attachment for the 9" SB gives you a maximum of 6 1/2" which
is more than ample for tooling tapers. For longer less precise
tapers you can turn the taper in sections by repositioning the
attachment with length limited by your bed length. For precise long
tapers you can also use the tailstock setover method without the
taper attachment. Keep your cuts light on long thin tapers because
deflection will spoil your taper. Ted (20051) |
| Taper att use |
| How do you
disengage the cross slide from the screw when using a taper
attachment? Just curious I don't remember how. Bob
(21232) |
| Remove the
screw in the cross-slide that holds the cross-slide nut. (21233) |
| Bill, That's
kinda what I thought. The lathes with a taper set up must use a flat
cross screw nut and the non use a cross screw with a boss that fits
in a hole. Bob (21234) |
| Bob, I remove the
screw in the top of the cross slide and place it upside down in the
counterbored hole. This keeps the chips from falling into the hole
and I know where to look for the screw when I'm finished using the
taper attachment. Jim (21235) |
| I turned down a
plastic plug that I put in the hole after removing the screw.
Dave
(21239) |
| My 9" taper
attachment came with a knurled headed pin for this purpose. The pin
normally resides in a hole in the taper attachment anchor. Jim
(21241) |
| By the way, I just
finished converting my 9" SB to a telescoping taper att. I
don't have to worry where the screw is. It stays right in the nut.
(21259) |
| My setup is a little different than most. 1) I
have an aftermarket cross slide with the big hole for non factory
taper att. I don't want to remove the brass nut so i will unscrew
the cross slide to the rear then remove the whole handle assembly
including the screw from the front. My thread stop makes a perfect
wrench to unscrew. I found a nice set of plans that even has a SB
used for a model. Bob (21260) |
| Taper
attachment installation |
| I'm trying to
install a taper attachment and I'm not sure how the bed clamp is
supposed to be aligned. In the attached photo: 1) I'm assuming that
this bed clamp, which was also supporting a collet rack, is intended
to capture the rod on the right end of the taper attachment. 2) This
bed clamp has a steel sleeve in it that is the right diameter to
slip on the rod but alignment is way off. The steel sleeve doesn't
have the "feel" of a factory part. 3) The taper attachment is
located on the saddle using dowel pins and aligned with the
cross-slide screw so I sure that the problem is with the bed clamp.
I'm thinking that I am either missing some part or else the large
hole in the bed clamp should be filled with babbitt rather than a
machined sleeve. Can anyone tell me how this is supposed to work. Ed
Attachment: (image/jpeg) taper1.jpg [not stored] (23379) |
| Ed. What size lathe
is yours? I just picked up your thread and I apologize for that, I
have a SB 13x 40 with taper attach and I can email you photo's if
that will help. Email off line if you want. Dee
(23381) |
| Ed, On my 10L the
bed clamps for the taper attachment and the collet rack look the
same. The difference is that the taper clamp is filled with babbit
to align the shaft from the taper attachment. The hole in the collet
clamp is big enough for the rod that holds the handwheel closer. I
think what you have is the collet rack clamp and not the taper
clamp. Chris
(23383) |
| Chris, The photo
attach didn't seem to work so I put a photo on my website:
http://beers.nu/taper1.jpg
I also have a 10L. Does your taper clamp have the vertical post?
Ed (23388) |
| The clamp in the
picture is a collet rack mount. The taper attachment clamp is
identical except it does not have an upright pipe or even a hole for
one. The horizontal cast hole for the rod from the taper attachment
has a steel sleeve embedded in lead because it does not center up
exactly with the rod. Roy
(23391) |
| Ed: Taper
Attachment was aligned following an elaborate factory set-up
instruction sheet and babbitt is then poured into holes in top of the
bracket ( washers were put on either side if the bracket to stop
babbitt from pouring right through ) I believe I have the set -up
instructions if you want a copy either by Email ( could be quite a
large file) or by snail mail if you want to contact me off group.
Ron
(23399) |
| Ed, Not sure if you
have the right clamp, but I agree that it shouldn't have a steel
sleeve, that the taper attachment shaft is aligned in the right
clamp with babbitt. I mounted a TA on a 9" and did the babbitt thing.
Perhaps that sleeve is mounted in the clamp with babbitt and you can
melt it to remove the clamp. If not, there are other ways to get it
out or machine it out to make room. If it is a babbitt mount, there
should be a pour hole on the top/center surface above the shaft hole
but it not be visible without striping the paint. Rick (23401) |
| ED: Another thing
that you might try to adjust the misalignment if you still want to
see if sleeve is close, is to adjust the small screw with the jam
nut on it that is screwed into the bottom of the clamp for that
bracket. This will allow for some movement up and down but not in
and out. In and out is preset by the "V" that is machined in the
clamp. Ron
(23402) |
| Ed, the rack clamp
and taper att clamp castings are identical, except that the taper
att casting is filled with lead or babbitt to fit the stub on the
taper att end. The hole where the rack would bolt should go instead
is the place that holds the cross-slide nut screw hole cap pin. If
your casting has two empty 1/4" holes on top and a setscrew in the
rear, that is a rack clamp. RichD
(23406) |
| Ron, I'm assuming
that complicated part of the procedure is getting the taper
attachment aligned with the crossfeed leadscrew and parallel to the
bed. This shouldn't be a problem for me since I am using the
original saddle with the attachment location fixed by dowels. It
sounds like I am missing the clamp for the taper attachment but do
have the very similar clamp for the collet rack. I will probably
modify the collet rack clamp for the taper. Now all I need to do is
learn to babbitt. Ed
(23407) |
| For ref, here is a
collet rack set complete. (ebay) RichD
(23410) |
| On my heavy ten,
there are TWO clamps. One holds the collet rack. The other one
attaches the taper attachment to the bed. They do look alike.
(23411) |
| You can probably
get by with just filling the cast hole with lead and drilling a hole
for the rod in the proper (off center) location. As I mentioned
earlier, there was a steel sleeve cast into the lead, but that isn't
really necessary since the clamp only keeps things from moving side
to side when in use, otherwise it has a free ride the rest of the
time. Roy (23412) |
| Ed, Yep, that's a
rack clamp. May have been sleeved to adapt to a taper att, but not
on that lathe. What does go in the hole is the C ring holder for the
collet handwheel closer. RichD
(23414) |
| Ed: Someone has
made this sleeve and installed it in the Collet Rack Clamp ( which
is what you have but is the same as the taper attachment clamp
without the pipe tapped hole in it as someone else already alluded
to ) . When you see the size of the hole in the Collet Rack Clamp as
compared to the size of the Draw Bar itself you think it needs a
bushing which was not the way South Bend supplied it but made
perfect sense to machine one and install as the lathe owner. Ron
(23415) |
| Just reading your
post about the taper attachment. I just yesterday put one on my SB 9
Model A. I have waited years to get one. I have no instruction with
it and would greatly like to get one that is written about in this
post. I would very happy to pay you for a copy so I can put it with
my lathe. I don't care if you want to email it or I can send you my
mail address. David
(23418) |
| Ed: When you see
the installation instructions it is not just a matter of bolting it
on with the dowels and it is correct. You must do some scraping,
indicating. bolting, rescraping, reindicating and in at least my
case shimming before the attachment is correctly aligned. I do
machine repair at a large machine shop at a steel mill and I spent a
whole day on mine before it was lined up as per SB instruction
sheet. This instruction sheet is an 8 page document with pictures.
Ron
(23420) |
| Ron You wouldn't
still have those 8 pages would you ? Ed
(23421) |
| David , Ed (Indy)
and others: I will scan and send instruction sheet in 4 separate
Emails due to size. I have a photo-copy supplied to me by the seller
of the Taper Attachment I purchased . Some pics are a little dark
but with the written text it is quite easy to see what the pics are
trying to show. Could this document be posted anywhere on the SB
site? What about the SB Lathe Pix site? Size would probably be
large. I have high-speed so sending is not the problem. Ron
(23422) |
| Ron: You sure made
my Christmas Day. Many thanks for the kind service of doing this for
us all. David
(23423) |
| I'd also like an
e-mail copy too Ron. Jim
(23424) |
| You need look no further than the files section right
here on the group you are at. Look under the "Techinfo" file in the
files section and you will find the info you are looking for.
Sometimes a little looking will save a lot of work. BK
(23425) |
| Ron, I would also
appreciate a copy of the scans, don't quite understand what all the
push-ups are about, but maybe the instructions will explain it!
Roy
(23426) |
| BK: I just went and
looked at the files in the South Bend Group and you are correct in
that the complete file is there for the 9" and 10K only. In fact the
written text that is there ( Pages 1 to 5 ) is not something that
was included in what I have concerning the 9" and 10K. The
instructions I have are not seen in the group file list and pertain
more to installing the Taper Attachment on the machines with
Telescoping Style Taper Attachment on the larger machines ( Heavy10"
and up ) although I do have pages 6 to 8 for the 9" and 10K. The one
in the group seems to pertain only to the Non-Telescoping Style
Taper Attachment found on the 9" and 10K. Ron
(23431) |
| Ron, There is one
already posted in the files directory under Techinfo but it is for
the 9/10K while I have a 10L. While it describes the general
procedure, the 9 install seems much more complex. On the 10L the
mounting flats and tapped holes are already present. The crosslide
isn't replaced and doesn't need to be scraped in. Do you have the
instructions for the 10L? Ed (23433) |
| The "Taper
Attachment Fitting" instructions courtesy of rigrac are now
available in: Files Many thanks to rigrac for providing them. Paul
H. (23478) |
| Taper setup
example |
| I am modifying a
taper sleeve to fit my Heavy 10. Pictures and narrative at:
*no longer available* Anyone see issues with this approach or has suggestions/improvement,
feel free to chime in. This made sense to me and was doable with the
tooling I have. If you don't have a gauge for long travel, you could
set up stops so you only have to measure once. Bill
(24884) |
| Bill, I can't
comment on the taper setup, but am very interested in how you
mounted your Trav-A-Dial. If you have or can provide any information
photos, I'd sure appreciate it. Anyone else have on mounted that
feels like sharing would be great also. Rick (24900) |
| Yes Bill, I am
actually going through some problems with my actual spindle taper
now, so I am trying to figure out your set-up. Thanks for the
website Bernie (24926) |
| Looks very good.
However for the best very true results you should to do a little
more work. Make a mandrel turned between centers to fit the inside
taper of the adapter first. Sock on the adapter then machine to the
correct taper. You can just chuck up anything in the 3 jaw chuck for
now and put a 60 degree tapered point on it for the center as a
temporary one, and use a jaw for the drive pin to ride against. You
can check it for accuracy of taper this way, with a test fit (don't
even remove it from the mandrel), and get it right back where it was
to continue machining with dead on where you had it results. If you
pop it out of the 3 jaw chuck to check it, it would never go back
accurately enough. More work but should be easier to get a better
fit and a true running inside taper. Jim (24934) |
| Jim, In the first
picture you can see some brass shims sitting on the carriage. I am
using them to center the adapter in the 3-jaw. I indicate the "free"
end first, then center the chuck end using shims. It takes a few
iterations but so far it has worked. I am shooting for .0005 TIR
(total indicator reading). In the second picture you can see a bit
more shine from the sleeve where the three-jaw clamps. Before I
chucked the sleeve big end, I pushed the small end into the spindle
taper (chuck removed). If fit but wobbled since the tapers don't
match. I put a dead center in the spindle sleeve and chucked a
bronze oilite bushing in the tailstock drill chuck. The dead center
registered inside the oilite bushing so the tailstock could keep the
sleeve straight and hold it tight in the spindle bore. I shaved the
big end flat (removed the taper) where the chuck jaws engage it in
the setup pictured. I don't expect to be doing a lot of center
work- this is more an exercise for practice and an attempt to
salvage the ten bucks I paid for the taper sleeve. It's made of
pretty stern stuff though- a file marks it but even small cuts
produces brown-blue continuous ribbon chips. Malleable cast? I was
expecting clean gray cast, possible case hardened or carburized.
We'll see if life gets easier once I peel off the "skin." Too cold
again in the garage so the project will have to wait.
Bill (24937) |
| Jim, I here you.
TIR as chucked is around .008. Once indicated and shimmed, I will
leave it set until I'm done. The lathe came with only the three jaw
chuck which only has the outside jaws. I picked up a nice faceplate
for $40, the taper sleeve for $10 plus a couple centers, a 3m-2m
reducer, etc. My score of the year so far is a 5c spindle adapter
and thread protector for $52. I need to build a collet puller. A
local dealer has piles of used collets so I will buy them as I need
them. Next on the list are a few more AXA holders. After that a
4-jaw. If I run into a fantastic deal, I may replace the 3-jaw but I
don't see where it will add functionality. Rather than buying a
4-jaw, I've thought about machining a set of "jaws" that mount on
the surface plate. We'll see how it goes. For now, I think I am set.
I could also machine fixtures for each job. When I used to turn
tapered holes in plastic cubes, I machined a 3-sided box to hold it.
One of the sides included a clamping section. I mounted the box on a
piece of 3/4 round. This way, when I needed to do the tapered holes,
I just put the round peg in a collet and machined away. Over time,
volumes went up and I finally caved to common sense and had custom
tapered end mills made. That way I could plunge the tapers on the
mill- much faster and easier than cutting tapers with the lathe
compound. Hope this reads well- it's past my bedtime. Bill
(24953) |
| PM "make your
own taper attachment" |
| I was looking at
some old Popular mechanics books (local library is dumping them) and
found an article on making a taper attachment for a metal lathe. I
scanned the pages and uploaded them
http://www.motherearthrecycling.net/tapper/tapper.pdf
the file is 10 meg so it will take some time to load. I also posted
a color version with high res
http://www.motherearthrecycling.net/tapper/tapper1.pdf
but it is 30 meg.
(24970) |
| Its already in
prints_and_plans in a smaller file. You might want to change the
resolution on your scanner to make download friendly files. I have
cable but some people still have dialup. JP (24971) |
| There are some
other styles as well. One is to mount a hinge joint near the
headstock and then to that a long shaft. Near the rear of the lathe,
is a floating plate that the shaft attaches to. just set the angle
and go. One thing about angles, you can use your dial indicator and
carriage to determine the angle. I think If I were to do a heavy
duty taper attachment, I would use a linear rail. it would be very
tight and instead of trying to fit up things, it would make the
project much faster. Dave
(24984) |
| The thing I've
always wondered about taper attachments, not having ever seen one in
person, is how do they release the acme threads/nut that would
normally hold the cross slide in place when you have it following
the taper attachment? Neal
(24987) |
| If your machine has
a taper att. you remove the screw that holds the nut in place. If it
a telescoping type you do nothing. My friend Brian and I have
converted our 9" SBs to telescoping taper attachments. If your
machine did not have a taper att. you would have to modify the nut
and plug the hole with a "T" shaped plug. Drill a hole for a new
bolt. Bruce
(24997) |
| On the 9x20,
cranking the cross slide all the way across and then removing the
hex cap screws that hold the cross screw bearing to the slide will
allow the slide to be pulled back and forth by the taper attachment.
This is easier to do and put back when finished. Jack
(25002) |
| Photo or
dimensions of taper part? |
| I was wondering if someone could supply me with
a photo and dimensions of the bolt that holds the crossfeed nut to
the taper attachment base on a 1943 SB 9" model A. I have acquired a
taper attachment but it came missing this part.
Marshall
(25783) |
| BINDER STUD PART
#AS867NK1 Dims as follows: Base 1.2486 dia. x .580 thick. Stud
3/8-16 x 1 5/16 long threaded half way. It is all one piece Pin (key) extending
from OD of base about halfway up. Bruce .190 dia. extends about .060 (25784) |
| Thanks for the
reply and info. I think I wasn't clear on the part. According to my
parts list, which I have just found, I need # PT66NK1. I am trying
to determine if someone has modified the hole for this "screw".
Marshall
(25786) |
