| Thread dial (Oct 15,
2001) |
Threading Dial reproduction?
(Sep 13, 2003) |
| Thread dial - metric lead screw
(Oct 16, 2001) |
Thread dial set screw
(Nov 5, 2003) |
| Threading Dial (Oct 16,
2001) |
Thread dial gear (Nov
25, 2003) |
| Making a thread dial?
(Apr 3, 2002) |
9" Threading Dial Arrived
(Feb 16, 2004) |
| Southbend Thread Dial
(Jun 3, 2002) |
Thread mike (Mar 7,
2004) |
| Threading Indicator for
Metric Thread Cutting (Nov 22, 2002) |
Question on Thread Dials
(Mar 11, 2004) |
| Threading dial tooth-count?
(Feb 20, 2003) |
Fitting a thread dial to a 9"
junior (Jul 27, 2004) |
| Thread dial mounting (Apr
22, 2003) |
Thread Dial Gear (Dec
14, 2004) |
| Thread dial gear (Apr 25,
2003) |
Threading indicator
(Jan 14, 2005) |
| Threading dial (Jun 13,
2003) |
13" Thread Dial Gear Teeth
(Feb 14, 2005) |
| Threading dial gear ( |
Threading dial (Mar 2,
2005) |
| Threading dial gear for a 9"
Model A (Jul 19, 2003) |
Thread dial indicator
(Mar 2, 2005) |
| Threading dial (Sep 6,
2003) |
|
| |
| Thread dial |
| I sure would like
to see those articles on making (and using) the thread dial, any way
you could post them to the files area? if there's enough interest,
maybe the guy in pine hall(?) who makes the cross-slides could work
up a casting for them. if I correctly understand, the drive gear
controls only the dial so it could be delrin, brass, aluminum, mild
steel, whatever else easily machined, not necessarily hardened
steel, making it much easier to produce at home. (1852) |
| There's now an article in the files
section under "9_Inch_Threading_Dial". I tried it in the photo
section but I didn't like the metaphor, so there you go. Paul
H. (1854) |
| I just uploaded
another article into the same directory. I am currently working on
this one. I just need to make the gear. Mike(1859) |
| So now all I need to make my own, is
to know the number of teeth on the gear...can anyone with a C or 10L
provide a tooth count? I looked in the archives for those AutoCAD
drawings but all I find is the article from the old magazine and two
.jpg's. (1870) |
| I have a
9" south bend model A. The tread dial on my lathe has 32 teeth. (1878) |
| Thread dial -
metric lead screw |
| How does the
thread dial design need to be changed for a metric SB lathe? I have
a Boxford AUD which is a European version of the SB. David (1872) |
| If it's anything
like on a Hercus (and I expect it would be), the metric "thread
chaser" accessory is a different animal from the imperial. There are
3 wormwheels instead of one, selected according to required thread.
There's a picture of one fitted to a lathe here:
http://www.axmell.com.au/hercus/hercus_260_metal_lathe.htm
Jordan (1874) |
| I've seen this same thing in Boxford literature. The reason for the
difference is that metric threads are in a somewhat decimal-ized
multiplication sequence instead of the binary division used in
imperial (inch) threads. Unfortunately, I don't know the tooth
counts of the several wormwheels, which one is used for which
threads, or the markings on the top. Anthony
(1890) |
| I have a Boxford
AUD with a metric thread and thread dial. The dial has two
wormwheels on the bottom with 20T and 21T. The top is indexed in 5
positions and these are marked A thru E. Unlike an imperial dial the
marks are not equally spaced. Boxford supply a chart which tells you
which positions to use for which thread pitches. (1892) |
| Pics of the metric
thread dial as made by Hercus:
http://www.zipworld.com.au/~jordan/threadchaser (1907) |
| Threading Dial
|
| I found this site with a bunch of kits, etc,
including a threading dial that it says will fit SB lathes. Anyone
ever do any business with these guys?
http://www.hemingwaykits.co.uk/contents.htm
Bubba K.(1876) |
| I wish they would have
put more pictures of some of the items. I would like to know how the
radiusing attachment worked. I guess they are afraid that someone
might just look at the picture and figure out how to make the item
and then they wouldn't get there money. Gerald (1877) |
| They only
do imperial thread dials. David (1884) |
| Yes. Before Neil Hemingway retired and sold the business I purchased
several items from them. I also was supplied several pieces of
information which would have been hard for me to acquire by other
means even though these assistances were of no direct commercial
value to Mr. Hemingway. I found the company and Mr. Hemingway easy
to deal with and would unquestionably recommend them. From what
little I know of the company since the transfer of ownership they
are still an excellent and reliable source for materials and
information. Regarding the threading dial they are offering, I've
not seen the listing before but the machines they say it will fit
are all to the same pattern and if I needed the item I would not
hesitate to order it from them. Usual disclaimers, merely a very
satisfied customer. Anthony (1891) |
| I have no
experience (the standard disclaimer) with thread dials, or their
use, except the requirement for threading. As I explained to Paul, I
purchased a "9 " SB thread dial" on eBay. The unit I received is not
factory, but is an exquisitely handcrafted unit, obviously made by
an experienced machinist. The unit mounts to the apron in the
traditional manner with the exception the mounting shaft (rod) is
threaded into the side of the dial assembly as opposed to the
factory unit which retains an inserted shaft by means of a set
screw. The dial gear has "straight" cut teeth, inclined such as to
properly engage the lead screw. Centerline of the mounting shaft to
the bottom of the gear is very close to 1-1/2". When mounted, the
dial gear contacts the lead screw some where between the upper and
middle portion of the lead screw. The lead screw is a slotted Model
"A" variety. This means the dial gear, which has point contact with
the lead screw, loses thread contact when the lead screw slot
rotates past the dial gear, since no threads are present in the
slot. Second, if the lead screw rotates in a direction where the
slot passes the bottom of the dial gear first (reverse?), then a
severe risk of jamming the dial gear into the lead screw slot
exists. I thought a worm (concave) type of dial gear might span the
lead screw slot, making my concerns moot, but apparently the factory
produced both worm and straight dial gears? My question now
becomes how does a factory unit operate such that it maintains
constant contact and does not become jammed in the lead screw slot
when the lead screw rotation is reversed for reverse threads?
Where is the proper contact point, mid lead screw axis to traverse
the slot in either lead screw direction? Fred
(3344) |
| On my factory
made thread dial (different model, Heavy 10), the "gear" is cut from
a straight cylindrical (the cylinder has a vertical axis) piece of
metal, but the gouges within that piece are scooped out to match the
horizontal cylindrical profile of the lead screw. Thus, it is a
proper a worm gear. The lead screw is 3/4"- 8tpi acme, and the worm
gear has 32 teeth. The lead screw slot is about 0.185" wide, but the
worm gear has about 0.400" of height, so that it envelops the slot
and there is no danger of getting caught. The proper alignment is
symmetrical, so that the middle of the thread dial worm gear engages
at the middle of the lead screw thread. The axes of the thread dial
and that of the lead screw are perpendicular to each other. Have you
tried running the lathe and then carefully holding your custom
thread dial by hand against the slowly spinning lead screw? That
might make it clear whether your thread dial will work. Jon
(3345) |
| Here's a sketch of
how the thread dial looks for larger model lathes, from the CE3458
parts manual. The 9-inch model about which you ask, mounts
differently to the apron, but the principle, and (I think) the
design are essentially the same. Hope this clears up any questions
you might have. Jon (3346) |
| Had a leftover from
my "C" to "A" conversion, the former power switch mounting bracket
which clamps to the bed. Put it to use by using it in conjunction
with a plate w/ brazed on long nut. The nut was then bored to
accept a dial gauge (see attached photo). Alignment is such that it
hits the ground spot on the saddle. (3347) |
| Making a thread
dial? |
| I have an idea for
a project, which I think would work: to make your own thread dial
using an off the shelf spur gear: The gear of the stock thread dial
has 32 teeth, and it is in the form of a worm gear. It engages with
the lead screw, which has a pitch of 8 threads per inch. This
corresponds to a gear with a diametrical pitch of 8 * 3.14 = 25.1 .
This is NOT a standard diametrical pitch, however it IS close to
24dp. So, I suggest that a 24 dp spur gear of 32 teeth, loosely engaged with the lead screw,
might mesh well enough to follow the leadscrew rotation. Might
have to turn down the tips of the spur gear tooth a little bit.
Also, use a soft gear material such as brass or plastic. Has anybody
done this? |
| Ed, 1) When doing
thread cutting with a threaded spindle, there generally is not a
problem with reversing the motor to back up the leadscrew. To stop
and start the spindle rotation, don't just use the motor electrical
switch. Instead, use the large clutch lever on the cabinet, which
engages the flat belt to drive the spindle. You will need to get a
feel for this so that you don't cut your threads too far against the
headstock. The mild acceleration of the spindle from this
engagement, acting upon the inertia of the chuck, is not enough to
unscrew the chuck. This is NOT to say that it is OK to make cuts
with the spindle running in reverse. Cut with the motor going
forward. For cutting right hand threads, the carriage will advance
towards the headstock. 2) I don't believe that the motor under the
cabinet will be exposed to many chips. On my own lathe, I notice
that a few chips have gathered on the plate underneath the big flat
plate that is below the lower flat belt pulleys, but it doesn't look
like the motor casing has gotten many chips on it. My motor also has
exposed vents. Jon (3799) |
| Jon wrote: form of a worm gear. It engages with the lead
screw, which has a pitch of 8 threads per inch. This corresponds to
a gear with a diametrical pitch of 8 * 3.14 = 25.1 . This is NOT a
standard diametrical pitch, however it IS close to 24dp. So, I
suggest that a 24 dp spur gear of 32 teeth, loosely engaged with the
lead screw, might mesh well enough to follow the leadscrew
rotation... Might have to turn down the tips of the spur gear tooth
a little bit. Also, use a soft gear material such as brass or
plastic... Has anybody done this? I think this is a good idea, and
certainly worth a try if you can't find an original dial. I just
checked eBay, and was surprised that there weren't any listed. I
thought I had seen one or two recently. I agree that the gear should
be relatively soft. I think it will be close enough to work fine. Dave
(3801) |
| There have been
several on eBay lately. They went for between $100 and $150 which
sounds like a lot of money that could be better spent on other toys.
Ed (3802) |
| How about using an
acme tap as a worm to cut a gear out of brass - or to modify the
suggested 'almost fit' off the shelf gear. Chris (3805) |
| Chris, I think it
would be a bit difficult to get the acme tap to engage and cut
progressively into a brass blank. The cylindrical blank would have
to rotate freely, and progressively be pushed sideways into the
teeth of the acme tap. When a tap cuts a straight hole, the
progressive cuts occur longitudinally along the axis of the tap,
because the tap is tapered. If you try to hob the side of a circular
gear blank with a tap, this progression can occur only if you devise
a system of gradually wedging the blank against the teeth. To
prevent the tap from bending, the opposite side of the tap would
have to be supported. I'm not saying that it can't be done, just
that I think it would have some difficulties involved. On the other
hand, some of the people on this group might already have a 3/4-8tpi
acme tap handy, if they have decided to make their own half-nuts for
the carriage. In that case, it wouldn't be much trouble to try. Jon
(3809) |
| I've heard of
people making worm wheels this way. I think the thing to do would be
to put the tap in the lathe, in back gears, and find a tap that has
a center hole in the end (or friction anneal the end and drill one)
so that you can support it with a live center. Then put the blank on
the tool post and very slowly advance the cross slide. In free
machining brass one might be able to improvise a tap with a scrap of
acme rod, having grooves milled in it and then hardened. Chris (3813) |
| A gear could be cut
as per Dave Gingery's book "The Dividing Head Deluxe Accessories"
using a square toolbit ground to the tooth form and spun with a
boring bar. It would need to be indexed somehow... a rotary table
would work great, but even a marked paper tape should be sufficient.
It would not be a perfect involute form, but for this application it
should be close enough. Frank (3814) |
| I found
over the weekend a note by Geometer on a very simple way to do it
with a tap. You index gash it with any type of cutter using a spur
gear on the same shaft to index it with. Will post the article
tomorrow. JWE (3821) |
| There was an
article in the Home Shop Machinist on making a thread dial about a
year or two ago. I have made several gears using this technique and
they work fine. You take a piece of steel ( I used drill rod) the
same diameter as the lead screw you want to engage. Next grind a
lathe tool bit to match the pattern of the lead screw you want to
mesh with. Then cut threads in the drill rod to look exactly like
the lead screw for a length of 2-3 inches of threads. Next cut 3 or
4 longitudinal slots in the threaded drill rod using a die grinder
or dremmel tool with a slitting saw or abrasive cutoff blade. Next
make your gear blank the correct diameter (calculate to get the
number of teeth you need). Then mount your blank gear stock (I used
aluminum) to the tool post t-slot so the gear blank is on center
line of the lathe spindle. Mount the gear blank so it will turn
freely. Then using back gear speed, feed the gear blank into the hob
you just turned. Keep feeding until you have the proper depth. I
have made several replacement gears using this technique with good
results. I can post photos of the process if needed. Dallas (3833) |
| Southbend
Thread Dial |
| Would like to know
if anyone knows, the OD dimension of thread dial gear for a
southbend heavy 10. (4439) |
| Gear o.d. is
1.340". Steve (4440) |
| Threading Indicator for Metric Thread Cutting |
| I just acquired a
set of metric transposing gears for my SB9A. They're installed and
I'm ready to test it on making 1 mm pitch threads. I read "How to
run a lathe" and it did not speak to use of the threading indicator
for this task. I've heard how it is necessary to leave the half-nuts
engages and run the carriage back and forth when cutting metric. Is
this the case, or can I use the "same" position (eg. 1) and
engage/release the half-nuts? I figure I'll find out on my test
piece soon enough, but someone must know already. Rick K.
(7485) |
| Rick, Gotta leave 'em
engaged. Can you elaborate on what gears you got? Paul R. (7487) |
| A complete set,
from a fine gentleman from Washington. Same one I got my very nice
lathe thru. I was going to bid on the set that just closed today on
eBay, but went for this set. Good thing, too, 'cause the set on eBay
went way high. 127/100 gear 48 tooth gear 44 tooth gear 36 tooth
gear 32 tooth gear 28 tooth gear 26 tooth gear spacer metal chart
Attached are photos he supplied. Rick K. (7488) |
| Very cool, Rick. At
some point I'd like to try my hand at making a set of gears. At
least that's one of my excuses for getting set up with an old
dividing head. Thanks for the info and the picture. The gears
look great. Paul R. (7490) |
| Okay, confirmed
that. So, when stopping the lathe, it still coasts a few turns. I
have an inverter for 3 phase, just need a motor. Will 3 phase stop
any faster when turned off? Is it instantly reversible? This
inverter is supposed to allow variable speed control. So, will it
work to turn the speed to zero very quickly instead of shutting it
off, to stop thread cutting without coasting? Rick (7501) |
| With a modern VFD,
you should be able to program the deceleration rate. Too quick and
you run the risk of spinning the chuck off the spindle nose. If you
are in a situation where you are threading up to a shoulder, or must
stop at a particular spot, you should be running in back-gear.
Actually, for most all threading they (SBL) recommend using
back-gear. If you have a speed pot on the VFD, you should be able to
dial the speed down to zero as you approach the end point. If no
speed pot, simply select the slowest back-geared speed and practice
shutting off the motor until you get the knack of stopping at the
right spot. If all that fails, the OLD FASHIONED way is to pull the
flat belt by hand or use a crank-handle to chase the thread or at
least the last turn of the thread manually. Paul R. (7502) |
| Rick Just release
the flat belt tension. At threading speeds it will stop essentially
instantly. Frank (7504) |
| They're read
indicator nuts Is this engage/release the must know dial affair that
would probably be tricky to use. I have never actually seen one but
have seen the pictures in the old catalog. RC (7541) |
| South bend actually
did make a metric thread dial. It is a multi dial affair that would
probably be tricky to use. I have never actually seen one but have
seen the pictures in the old catalog. But that's used with a metric
lead screw. As the person querying on the subject has mentioned
getting a set of metric conversion gears it seems apparent he wants
to use an 8 TPI lead screw to cut metric threads. The practical
response is you can't release the split nuts when doing cross-system
threading, meaning cutting metric threads from an inch lead screw or
inch threads from a metric lead screw. Anthony (7550) |
| Threading dial
tooth-count? |
| Would someone
kindly tell me the number of teeth on a threading dial for the 9"
Southbend "C" ? I have a dial which meshes with my lead screw, and
thought I would make a bracket to adapt it to my "C" if it's
compatible. Johnny (9428) |
| Johnny; I'm
pretty sure it a 32 tooth gear. As a rule of thumb, most thread
cutting dials are made to cover 4 inches or leadscrew before they
repeat. If it's much less than this, there is a real chance of
"hitting the mark, but missing the target" for certain threads. If
you go with a gear to cover more than 4 inches of leadscrew per
revolution, you end up with an awkwardly large threading gear.
Stan (9429) |
| Stan, that's just what this one from a Sheldon is, Now to build a
bracket. Johnny (9438) |
| Thread dial
mounting |
| I just picked
up a nice SB 9A dial from ebay (ouch) and was wondering how it
should be mounted. It looks to me like a short piece of 3/8" rod
would do the trick. Would one of you guys who has one please
describe the "factory" mounting method?(10381) |
| The pin is 2" long with a shallow 5/16 wide groove 1/2"
from the end that the setscrew in the thread dial beds into.
RichD (10382) |
| I have the
instruction sheet from South Bend on how to install a thread dial.
If you want a copy please email me your fax number. Rose
Marvin (10387) |
| With extreme
thanks to Rose Marvin at LeBlond/South Bend, the Instructions for
installing a Thread Dial on the 9" and 10-K Lathes have been
uploaded. I converted it to a PDF file, for the most universal
readability. See: http://tinyurl.com/a4vv File size is 54K. Scott Logan (10388) |
| Scott, Is this the
correct address? http://tinyurl.com/a4vv page. Thanks Larry (10389) |
| AOL uses all sorts
of treachery, so I can never be sure what it will come up with. That
*IS* a correct address, which expands to:
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/oNSmPq7izFYKjGF_icg0yQDhY1rX3dpQrSr-ID_Du4caTwUPF_50M4ZFwqCPJY_zKb9ItUc-G4wHYoGD/Diagrams/ATT-94.pdf
(Note you will probably have to cut and paste that all on one line)
You can also reach the files by clicking through from:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/ Then
selecting Files on the left hand side, then Diagrams, and ATT-94.pdf
Two caveats: You must be a Yahoo member to access any of the web
based features of this or any other YahooGroup. For this file, you
will need the free Acrobat reader, available for most all platforms
from
http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep.html
Scott Logan (10390) |
| Thread dial
gear |
| When I recently
purchased my 9" lathe the threading dial was missing, I am going to
build me the housing and parts according to the file in the archives
, what I wanted to know was is the worm gear that goes on the dial
available from a standard gear catalog or must it be made or ordered
from Leblond, I kind of figure that the gear is going to be really
expensive to order from LeBlond. (10449) |
| I am not sure of
the gear size, 25.13274 DP. Worm pitch (8 TPI of leadscrew) times
pi. but if you had an ACME tap of the same size as the lead screw,
you could easily make your won gear. If you wanted to make one of
Nylon or Delrin or PVC, that too would be a piece of cake provided
you have the tap. Barring having a tap, consider making an ACME tap.
just thread a steel piece and then saw or mill the chip grooves. I
think wooddragon had a 'how to' on his site. Dave (10456) |
| If you do this make
your tap the same size as your leadscrew. If you make it a larger os
smaller OD it will change the helix angle. This has the additional
benefit that in the future you can use the tap for cleaning up your
split nuts or even make new ones. Anthony (10463) |
| Threading dial
|
| Has anyone had any
luck building a threading dial from scratch for a 9" Southbend? If
so how about posting how you did it, or directing me to your prior
posts that told how you did it. Photos would be nice. Gary (11964) |
| I put a 9" thread
dial construction article in the files section a while back. Have
you taken a look at that yet? Mike (11967) |
| While I have tried
to look at your file but there must be a compatibility problem
between you software and mine. When I tried to open your file all I
got was gibberish. Is there any way for to post it in adobe or word
for windows? (11968) |
| Gary, The article
is compressed into a "zip file". This must be uncompressed to reveal
the 4 jpg images of a scanned mag article. View them at full size.
Very readable. PKZip is available free many places on the net.
RichD (11972) |
| Threading dial
gear |
| I have a 9 in
south bend mod#405. Could anyone tell me the Gear size and pitch for
the threading dial. My lathe has the square thread on the lead
screw. Roy (12680) |
| Roy, These are a
bit weird. On my SB9 (1939 Workshop C) with an 8TPI leadscrew, the
threading dial gear is 32 tooth, straight tooth form, but with the
teeth cut inclined at the helix angle of the leadscrew. The OD of
the gear is approx 1.34 inches. Yes, this works out to a fat 25DP
gear. Like I said, threading dials get weird. The number on the gear
is TD101. If this is the right part for you, SB may still be able to
provide them. Before going any farther, you might want to take a
look in the groups file section, there is a zipped 4 page article on
building a thread dial for 9 inch SB lathes, including generating
the gear. Threading dials typically use a gear with 4 times the
leadscrew TPI for a tooth count. If you have an 8 TPI leadscrew, you
would use a 32 tooth gear. This is just a rule of thumb, it ensures
the same index mark only aligns on the threading dial once every 4
inches of leadscrew. Some lathes push this out more, usually large
lathes that may be used to cut very coarse threads. On smaller
lathes, the odds of missing the carriage position by 4 or more
inches is pretty unlikely, and still wouldn't matter for most
pitches if cutting single lead threads. Pitch gets weird when you
leave a standard tooth pattern though, the best way (if you don't
have a mill and a dividing head or a gear cutting fixture) to
generate a gear for this application is to make a hob that matches
the leadscrew, turn a blank, gash the blank to rough out the 32
teeth and rig up a self feeding setup to cut the remainder of the
tooth profile. Very similar to the approach used when using a tap to
generate a worm wheel, just the tooth shape is a bit different.
Heck, a 1 - 8TPI tap might even generate a gear that works OK, even
though the tooth forms would be wrong for any power transmission
application. A good discussion of precision worm wheel generation is
found at:
http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/worms.htm And also in
several back issues of HSM, MW, and in some of the Village Press
books. One of the mags did an article on making a threading dial
within the last year, but I couldn't lay my hands on it to give a
reference. I think it was HSM. While a bit harder to get through,
"Gear Cutting Practice" by Colvin and Stanley, originally published
in 1937 and republished by Lindsay is pretty thorough. The above
assumes you don't have a dividing head and/or a mill. If you have a
mill and a dividing head, or want to cobble up a work holding
fixture that indexes from a 32 tooth gear, simply tilt the setup to
match the helix angle of the leadscrew, grind a single point tool to
match the leadscrew form, and have at it. Piece of cake. I'd use a
nice leaded brass in this application, it's easier to single point
than steel. In a home shop a nicely finished brass threading dial
gear will last a long time if you disengage it except when
threading. Some folks have used straight cut thin gears for this
application, or have hobbed a straight gear set up with the blank at
the helix angle of the lead screw. 24DP is in the ballpark, but not
quite on. The numbers work out to somewhere around 25 DP it seems
for best mesh, but that's working with formulae for involute tooth
forms. On a "C" this is probably fine, but the keyway on a "B" or
"A" might screw up the gear. I've also seen home made thread dials
that actually tilt the entire shaft/dial/straight tooth form gear
innards of the dial in their housing to match the helix angle. Lots
of ways to skin this cat. I'm not aware of an off the shelf worm
wheel that mates nicely with square thread leadscrews. Stan
(12681) |
| Stan writes: On my SB9
(1939 Workshop C) with an 8TPI leadscrew, the threading dial gear is
32 tooth, straight tooth form, but with the teeth cut inclined at
the helix angle of the leadscrew. The OD of the gear is approx 1.34
inches. Yes, this works out to a fat 25DP gear. Like I said,
threading dials get weird. It's actually 1/8" pitch which works out
to 25.13274--- DP (DP = TPI x pi). Gears can be specified in linear
pitch which would be appropriate in this case. Another problem to be
dealt with is that the helix angle for a leadscrew of a given pitch
varies with the diameter of the leadscrew. If you had a leadscrew of
infinite diameter the helix angle would be zero, while a leadscrew
of 0" diameter would have a helix angle of 90 degrees. Anthony
(12693) |
| Threading dial
gear for a 9" Model A |
| Has anyone on this
list ever made the gear for the threading dial for a Model A SB
lathe with a 3/4"x 8 tpi Acme lead screw? If so did you make any
extras? I would like to buy one. I have been thinking of making one
but there a lot of fixtures to make in order to make the gear. I
know if I made those fixtures I would make more than one gear. So
how about it, does anyone have a gear to sell. Gary
(12795) |
| I recall someone
making the assembly after buying the gear from South Bend. I don't
remember which lead screw it was for. If I recall correctly, the
gear wasn't too unreasonable. Ask Rose. Ed (12800) |
| I didn't make one
but I did buy one from Rose at LeBlond about a month and a half ago
for $52 or $56 including shipping, while I am a tight butt I didn't
think this was to bad of a deal. (12836) |
| Threading dial
|
| Have a SB heavy 10 shipped in 1959. Unloaded it alone and I
can assure you it IS heavy. It had no thread dial on it so I picked
up one from a Sheldon lathe and it fits the lead screw just fine. It
was also a whole lot cheaper. SB quoted $460 and I have seen them go
for $100 to $150 on Ebay. Just for the name?? Its a little bit
longer so a simple mounting bracket has to be made up, but it puts
the dial close to the level of the top of the cross- slide. This
actually makes it easier to see. I am not a purist, I was just
looking for a functional accessory, I did however paint it grey.
(13814) |
| Yes, I expect that the higher price for things which say
"South Bend" is just for the name. I expect there is more demand
(and thus a higher price) for South Bend parts because more South
Bend lathes were made and perhaps more survived. Why do most owners
of South Bend lathes go for the South Bend parts? I expect there are
some purists, and others who don't want to (or can't) go through the
effort you went through to work out what will fit and then adapt it.
I'm glad to hear you worked out a solution right for you, and
perhaps now some others will try the same thing. Keep us posted on
what else you find that fits. Picking up on what seems to be
becoming my standard theme, did you get the 1959 date from South
Bend? If so it would help us if you could supply your serial number
and specific shipping date. We are trying to put together enough
data to help date lathes for others. Frank
(13849) |
| The serial number
is 11448RKL16 model CL187A, yes South Bend said it shipped in 1959.
The used equip dealer said it came from a school in Boston, he had 3
of them. It shows very little wear on the ways or lead screw so I
loaded it into the pickup and brought it home. Sputtered many
expletives unloading it but it is now bolted to its concrete pad
with shims, leveled to .0015"/ft and cleaned up some. Mobil spindle
oil was suggested but I cleaned it with Kero and lubed it with Break
Free initially. Its the best 'weasel wizz' I have found, it makes
WD-40 look like glue. The lathe looks like the original oil was
never changed so I have to get the crud out and I really don't want
to tear it down. It seems that everyone copied South Bend so I
expect there are a lot of other parts that might work. The price
they wanted for a mounted worm wheel and dial is off the wall in my
opinion. JP (13862) |
| A caution
suggestion - I don't know what 'Break Free' is, but if it is at all
like WD-40 it is probably not wise to use it as a lube. Your
bearings will probably be ruined if you run it for any length of
time with a WD-40-like solution. Sounds like you got a real sweet
lathe and it would be a pity to mis-lube it. I think there was a
thread about this some time ago. Worth checking the archives. Ya gotta love the smell of kero! Frank
(13869) |
| I had a small spray
bottle of Break Free years ago (late 80's). If I remember right it
had Teflon in it. It seemed thicker than WD-40. I would say about a
5wt straight oil. Still, I would use proper oil in the spindle
bearings. I would suggest a synthetic like Mobil (Vectra I think).
Also get some way oil for the ways. You can replace the spindle
bearings, but to have ways reconditions is big bucks. Tom (13871) |
| Break Free is a
penetrating lubricant and preservative, never dries up. Has a
Mil-Std rating and is used on firearms. I figure about an hour max
and then oil the lathe. This should loosen the oxidized oil in the
assemblies so it flushes out with repeated oiling. Kero is
definitely NOT my favorite fragrance, but it makes a nice cutting
oil for aluminum. JP (13872) |
| There are 2
variations to Break Free, one with a cleaner and one without. They
both have a Teflon additive similar to Slick 50. I was not planning
to use it as a lubricant for any length of time. I expect to use a
synthetic oil. I am trying to remove the remains of the 40 year old
oil without tearing down the machine. I figure if I run the saddle
and cross slide back and forth a few times it with the feed it
should cover all of the moving parts. I don't feel comfortable in
using straight kerosene for more than a few minutes because it had
no lubricating properties. JP (13874) |
| Yes! There is a big
difference between WD-40 and other rust busters and a Lube.
Clint (13876) |
| Threading Dial
reproduction? |
| I am having a
pattern made now for a 9" threading dial body, one of my friends has
a 9" also with no threading dial and rather than pay the $100-$150
that these units are bringing used on eBay we decided to have the
body cast, would there be any interest for these as a reproduction
unit. I know this guy who works at a foundry and he said that he
could cast them at home with his furnace for $30 a piece (in
Aluminum) or he could cast them after hours at work for $55 a piece
(in Iron), if there is any interest he said he could cut the cost on
making them out of iron, but the pattern would have to be made a
little different. I think that these would be fine made out of
aluminum and that would keep the cost down to a good price, I am
going to make the gear, shaft and the dial myself (already made the
dials and shafts, making gear cutter now). I think this way I could
make them and keep the cost of a new one under the cost of a used
one or if you think I should stick to iron I could still keep the
price comparable. I would like some feedback on this thought please.
(13944) |
| Aluminum would be
fine if you add bronze bushings into it on the shaft. Aluminum on
steel will gall when the aluminum oxidizes and if you use a
stainless shaft against aluminum you will have a lot of friction. It
not supposed to take any load so material strength is not an issue.
The original ones were cast iron because most foundries only cast
one material. There is an article on this site under files
"9inch_threading_dial" which shows how to machine a complete
assembly. You have a lathe and apparently don't have casting
facilities. You can get bar stock relatively cheap. Most steel
suppliers cut material for their customers and usually have a scrap
bin with just what you will need in there and its sold by the pound.
If you want the cast finish make radius edges and sandblast it with
a coarse shot. If you machine it it could be steel or aluminum. Its
a whole lot easier to machine standard stock than it is to set up to
machine a rough casting. No special tooling required. JP (13948) |
| The point was to
make a very close reproduction, virtually anybody can make one from
bar stock, as far as the aluminum oxidizing it won't happen if the
oil hole is put in the top like the original, no need for bushings
then as oil will lube the aluminum and the shaft as it did the iron
version. I do this kind of stuff for a living, and have for 24
years, I actually build high precision plastic injection molds for
the medical and electronics industries along with designing them. My
idea was to actually offer them for sale at a much more reasonable
price than the $387 that Leblond offers them at, if there was enough
interest. And actually with a little alumi- cast machining the raw
castings is quite easy with little or no special equipment. if
foundries files "9inch_threading_dial" and need make it up .
(13952) |
| Oh well, you asked
for feedback. LeBlond must like you, I got a quote of $460 for one
for a 10". JP (13953) |
| Thread dial
set screw |
| Can anyone tell me
what the thread size of the hole is, for the set screw that holds
the thread dial on a 9" model A? Gary(14791) |
| Gary I didn't
measure mine but checking with the parts listing it appears to be
1/4" x20 x 3/8". John (14822) |
| John, that is not the correct size set screw for my
lathe. If you get a chance would you measure yours for me ? Gary (14825) |
| Gary Just checked
and mine is 1/4"x20. John (14826) |
| Gary: My 13" SB
Dial Screws are 10-32 if this is of any help. Ron (14827) |
| Gary. Just checked the set screw on my 1965 9"Model C Southbend and
the threads are 1/4"x 20tpi also. Maybe some of these vary from year
to year. Bill C. (14828) |
| Thread dial
gear |
| I watched a
friend cut some threads on his lathe the other day and now I'm all
hot and heavy to do it myself on my 9C with no thread dial
currently. Seems like a thread dial is the way to go, and I've seen
two articles on how to make one. They each were great for me, right
up until they had me cutting the gear to engage the leadscrew... :-)
Seems like that's really the only part of the operation that would
require a bunch of re-tooling. I'd need to make some sorta dividing
plate, get a slitting saw / acme shaped tool cutter, etc. At this
point, I use insert cutters and turn relatively simple things, plus
I frankly don't really have the time to spend a day making a gear.
Can the gears be purchased at a reasonable price anywhere?
"Reasonable" to me means in the $0 to $30 or so range. If that's not
much of an option... What's the deal with slitting saws? Is there a
standard "hobbyist who is perfectly happy with phase II vs.
Aloris,
but still likes things that work" answer here? I've got a milling
attachment, so at least that part of the fixturing would be helped a
bit. From looking at the dividing setups the two articles used (one
in the files section here, the other in the latest Machinist's
Workshop), I can probably make one if I really needed to. I'd
frankly prefer to spend $50 or so and get a threading dial all ready
to go that I could bolt onto the lathe. I'm unconcerned about
originality or not, the stock part would be great but eBay seems to
think they should cost an arm and a leg. Anyway, just wondering if
anyone has some advice, particularly as to if I could find a ready
made gear or threading dial at reasonable prices and what sorta
slitting arrangement works for hobbyist types. Mark
(15207) |
| Check out this eBay
auction: 2576428265 For a buy-it-now price of $45 you get the bottom
gear and a set of plans. Now if only I'd seen this before winning a
stocker at $105. John (15208) |
| Mark I cut my own
gear out of aluminum. I didn't use the tap/hobbing technique so my
gear teeth are straight cut. They are at a slight angle to match the
leadscrew though. It took me a long time to figure out and make a
single tooth gear cutter. After that I could cut a gear in about 20
minutes. I have a Burke horizontal mill with autofeed so even though
it was less than a minute per tooth, I was able to do other small
jobs while it was cutting. I used a 32 tooth gear off the reversing
lever as an index. My cutter was eyeballed and certainly wasn't
perfect but the gear works fine. There is really no load on a thread
dial gear and as long as it meshes it will work. It was a fun
project, material cost virtually nothing, but lots of time.
John (15210) |
| John
Have you got any pix of the setup you used? Clint (15212) |
| Clint No, I thought
of that later. I will reassemble most of the setup and take some
pictures. It won't include the indexing gear though. John (15214) |
| John. Check out
Chris Heapy website
http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/worms.htm for the gear hobbing setup he made. He gives a
lot of detail on it. You can pick an alloy steel acme rod from MSC
or McMaster to make up your cutter from JP(15218) |
| Mark, I am using a
threading dial from a Sheldon Lathe on my Southbend. The lead screws
are apparently the same 8tpi, and the worm is a 32 tooth. It did not
say Southbend so it was much less expensive than what you see on
Ebay. All I had to do is make a mounting bracket from some CRS.
JP (15224) |
| If I remember right a friend of mine adapted a Logan
thread dial to his southbend. I checked my Logan 10 thread dial
yesterday; uses a 16 tooth gear so apparently all 3 brands can
interchange with mount modifications. Will check thread dial on my
late Dad s Atlas Craftsman today; bet it'll be a multiple of 8 .
Lew (15227) |
| Clint I took some
pictures last night, but the files section is full and I can't get
into the Photo section at all. If you want the pictures, reply to me
directly and I'll send them to you. Total size is about 250 kb.
John (15228) |
| John While it s
a bit off the list topic there s plenty of room in the files section
of my yahoo list shop_tool_exchange. You re welcome to post them
there. Lew (15229) |
| Lew Your
email reminded me that we also have a pictures group at
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix
I posted my pictures in a Folder called Thread Dial. The indexer was
based on a holder that I made to hold the common 3/8" shank carbide
boring bars. The mandrel fits in place of the boring bar. I used one
of the gears off the reversing lever as an index and added a small
bracket with a screw that would fit between the teeth of the index
gear. Since the bore of the index gear is larger than 3/8", I cast a
piece of aluminum on the end of the mandrel. I turned it with a
short section that nicely fit the bore. A screw threaded in the end
of the mandrel holds the index gear up against the shoulder. The
indexer with the mandrel and finished gear but without the index
gear is shown in one of the pictures. For me the hardest part was
making the gear cutter. I ground it from a 1/8" HSS toolbit. After
much research on gears I calculated that I needed a 5/16" radius on
each side of the bit. I had a Dremmel wheel that was close enough. It
took a while to figure out a holder for the bit. I ended up cutting
a 1/8" slot into a piece of heavy wall pipe. Next time I'll use some
"round" HSS so I can fit it into a drilled hole. I calculated the
helix angle and mounted the indexer at that angle on the mill table
and cut the gear. Then I measured the angle with a protractor and
made a gear that fits. ;-( My cutter is slightly asymmetrical so the
gear teeth aren't perfect but they do work without binding. The body
of the thread dial was cast out of aluminum and machined into final
shape. Since making the dial, I've cut a number of threads including
a LH female ACME. The dial works fine. For me it was a worth while
project. I learned a lot about gears, a lot about machining and
saved $100. I won't say how many hours all this learning took
though. John (15230) |
| I have a thread
dial off an atlas that I use. Scott (15231) |
| Lew. That was me
that used the Logan thread dial on my Southbend. When Dick delivered
the lathe he told me how to modify it to work on the SB. Guess I'll
get a chance to cut some threads this week- end. Bill
(15232) |
| What size Atlas? (15233) |
| Making a gear for
these is easy, was actually thinking about making some spares to
sell last night when I was bored at worked but decided not to for
now. You do not need to hob the gear as the factory ones were not
hobbed they were milled and work just fine, you do need to have one
to make a profile cutter for and then place your indexer up on the
same angle as the lead screw thread appears to be, then simply cut
the teeth using the indexer and the proper gear or index plate. I
built my indexer and my plates, it is pretty small and will only cut
a gear up to about 3 1/2" in diameter. If you decide this is to much
trouble to do E-mail me off line and maybe I will make a few and
sell for a reasonable price. I have made several 16t change gears
with involute cutters for the B-C models and sold them to people on
E-bay and this group.
(15235) |
| It was from a 10"
or 12". I believe both have the same size lead screw. It has a 16
tooth gear. Scott (15236) |
| Interesting; if you
adapt the mounting then the same one should work with a SB, Logan,
Atlas or Sheldon! Lew (15237) |
| I bought it off
e-bay for 4.35 and made up a quick mount, works great and didn't cost
big bucks like an original SB. Scott(15238) |
| Interestingly
enough there is an article in the latest Machinists Workshop (Dec
03/ Jan04) entitled, "Build a Thread Dial". I received my copy just
yesterday. Very good article. Neil B.
(15239) |
| looking at several
on a-bay now. In the $20 range. Seem to have 32 tooth gears. Jim
E. (15240) |
| Jim Looks to me
like a 32 tooth would work as well as a 16 tooth since they re
multiples of 8. Most dials have 4 marks on them that are numbered. I
think they re either 1, 2, 3, 4 or 0, 1, 2, 3. I've heard something
about engaging on marks other than #1; seems like you must engage on
2 or 4 for even numbered threads but any for odd number or something
like that but I thread so seldom that I always engage on number 1 so
it ALWAYS engages at the same place. Just makes it simpler for me.
So, if you have a 32 tooth gear it looks to me like it would just
take twice as long for it to reach the mark so you could engage
again. Thoughts comments? Lew (15241) |
| John send them here
driggars@e... also there is a South Bend pix group, a sister group
to this one Clint (15243) |
| There are half
marks as well on the dial. The instructions as to what to engage on
is in HTRAL. Starting at the same spot is the safe way to do it,
thats what I generally do. JP (15245) |
| Lew The dial I
built uses a 32 tooth gear. The dial has the regular 4 marks
(supposed to be numbered) plus half marks in between. For odd
numbered threads you engage on any numbered mark. For even number of
threads you can engage on any mark. I suspect that with a 16 tooth
gear you would have 4 marks with only 2 of them numbered. So far
I've only had to do even threads so I haven't numbered my dial yet.
There is a nice stamper in one of the metal project books that I
want to build first. That way I can make it look "nice". John (15246) |
| One of the basic
rules about the use of the thread dial is that when you cut a thread
that is a multiple of the lead screw pitch, you can engage the split
nut anywhere. Therefore, 8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, 56, 64, 72 and 80
TPI can be cut without a thread dial on the SB 9 and 10 that has a 8
TPI lead screw. The thread dial is nice because it basically tells
when to close the split nuts. It avoids the split nut to grab the
top of the lead screw and move the carriage when you don't want,
just enough to damage the start of the thread. On my Atlas lathe, I
added marks on my thread dial in order to know at all time when the
split nuts are ready to engage. This would also help people using a
model C for feed. (the atlas 12 has a cross feed but, for
longitudinal feed, split nuts must be used) For specific rules about
the thread dial, go back to the source; if you have a South Bend
thread dial, use the South bend book How to run a lathe. If you
install a Atlas thread dial, all the info is in the Atlas Manual of
lathe operation. If you get a Logan, check the Logan manual. Guy (15251) |
| 9" Threading
Dial Arrived |
| I received my brand
new threading dial from Plaza Machinery Friday, this thing is a near
perfect copy of the original and 100% American made, I am very
pleased and will probably order one of there reproduction steady
rests when I save up the $155, the threading dial was $119 postage
paid to the lower 48 states, I highly recommend this man to any of
you looking for a threading dial instead of taking a chance on eBay
with a used one. This man (Joe) is a one man company and is very
reasonable on his used parts, machines and reproduction items. I am
not affiliated with this company but I am a very pleased customer
and will return as needed for business. I know there are several of
the guys on this board that are looking for threading dials or parts
to repair theirs so give him a call. I tried to post a picture of
the one I received in the photo album but kept getting an error
message, I will try to post a picture of it later. His web site is
http://www.plazamachinery.com his phone number is (802)234-9673 and
sadly he doesn't do e-mail but does have a fax line.
(17310) |
| Thread mike
|
| I'm looking at
a thread mike on eBay. It's a one inch Starrett mod 575. The seller
indicates it's for a 10 to 13 pitch. Does that mean it can only be
used on 10 to 13 TPI? That doesn't sound right. Also, are thread
mikes worth having? Any thoughts appreciated. Bob (17623) |
| Bob, That's a 575BP
model (10-13 TPI). There are 6 in the range 7-40 TPI. There is a
Model 210 that covers all, but is is only a crude comparator.
RichD (17624) |
| Bob, That is
correct. The range of threads is 10-13 TPI. These mics list about
$160 new. There are interchangeable anvil threading mics. I have used
them before, and they work good. You might look at the import
brands. Try and get one made in Poland and not China. The price is a
bit more, but so is the quality. I think they are around $160. Of
course if you can get fixed threading mics for cheap or just use a
certain thread range, then just buy them. Really depends on the
type and precision of the work you do. It does take some of the
guess work out of how much to take off. Tom (17632) |
| Question on
Thread Dials |
| I'd like to
get a thread dial for my SB 9-inch model C. I looked at the carriage
mounting on several pictures in the file. My carriage does not have
a hole or shaft for mounting a thread dial. It doesn't look like it
would be too bad to provide a mount for it though. My question is,
"Is there or was there a standard hole provided for this
accessory?", and "Is there anything I need to be careful of if I
choose to go this route?" C
(17670) |
| Look in the
following for ATT-94.PDF which shows specs for hole.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/files/Techinfo/Thread_Dial/ (17671) |
| Fitting a
thread dial to a 9" junior |
| I'm going to
install a thread dial on the carriage of my 1920's 9" junior lathe.
In the file section of the southbendlathe group is a 1940's SB
drawing which describes the installation procedure: ATT-95 - Thread
Dial.pdf at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/files/Techinfo/Thread_Dial/ .
I understand the section about drilling and tapping a hole in the
carriage and mounting the thread dial with a bolt, using the upper
hole in the mounting flange (Hole C). I don't understand the purpose
of the second hole (Hole D). From the drawing: "The hole "D" in the
thread dial frame is large enough to clear the 3/16 pin, when the
thread dial is swung out of mesh. However the edge of the hole
should rest against the pin when the thread dial is in operation."
Would someone care to elaborate? Is the pin just there to limit the
swing when engaging the leadscrew? And the pin doesn't stand too
proud of the carriage that when the bolt (in hole C) is loosened
that the dial can be rocked (axially) to clear the pin? Once I
understand it's purpose, I can decide about installing a pin in the
carriage. I guess that by the mid 40's all older lathes already had
the pin, so that step was left off the drawing. Bob
(20243) |
| Bob, I don't
have any answers for you but would like to add a question on the
dial indicator. I have a 1955 heavy ten and my indicator is always
engaged with the leadscrew. I had no idea that it should be swung
back, ever. Am I correct in thinking it should be able to swing out of
mesh as Bob has said? If so I will need to adjust the bolt holding
it in place. I also don't have any sign of a pin but there is a
second hole in my apron. I was wondering what it was for g this
topic. Tom
(20247) |
| The threading dial
can be rotated out of the way by loosening the bolt that holds it in
place. The pin acts as the pivot. Eric (20250) |
| I believe the idea
of the swinging thread dial was to save wear on the lead screw. SB
(20255) |
| I think your
looking at the wrong file. If you go to the file section and look at
ATT-94.pdf, you will see a setup for the 9" lathe and the screw for
holding the indicator in place goes in from the front of the
apron i.e., horizontally. Walt (20256) |
| Walt, Nope, the
early 9" lathes used the same dial as the larger lathes. The thread
dial with the pivot rod sticking out the side was a later
development. If you're a member of the SBL Junior Lathe group, check
out page 17 of the 9" junior catalog (No. 23) in the Files section.
Bob (20257) |
| Thread Dial
Gear |
| Does anyone know
the specs on the thread dial gear for a 10K lathe? Or even the spec
on the leadscrew itself?
(22979) |
| To the best of my
knowledge the 10K is the same lead screw as the 9" That's a 3/4-8
ACME. The Gear should be a 16 tooth which will match this. Its
actually an ACME worm wheel. However a straight tooth gear will work
if the face is wider than the slot on the lead screw. The loading is
very light. Jim B. (22980) |
| The actual gear on
the indicator I got is 32T. If you want to manufacture one, there is
an article in Model Engineering workshop Oct-Nov 04 explaining how
to cut worm gears on a lathe. Last March, I manufactured the apron
worm gear with a technique similar to the one explained in the
magazine. It worked fine with me. If you know the basic about
threading on a lathe, you can do it. Guy (22981) |
| The gear is 1/2"
thick, outside dia 1.437, throat dia 1.353, pitch dia 1.2732. 32
tooth. Acme screw is 3/4" dia with a 1/8-inch lead or linear
pitch. Bob (22982) |
| And the helix angle
is [inv*sin .125/.75] which works out to 9.59 degrees, right?
(22983) |
| Not quite. I think
it is actually inv*sin .125/(.75*pi) which is approximately 3
degrees. The 1/8th pitch occurs around the circumference of the
screw rather than across it's diameter. I learned this by experience
as I cut my first one at 9.5 and found it didn't work. I measured
the angle with a protractor and used that to cut a usable gear.
John (23010) |
| John's got it.
Using the values given, it calculates out to 3.3 degrees. I used a
different method than you, calculating the pitch diameter of
standard ACME teeth and the pitch circular circumference. I think
the reason it didn't make any difference in this case is because the
lead screw is a single-start thread. This was timely because I'm
fixing to make a thread dial for my 13" and was going to have to
figure this out. Ed (23019) |
| Threading
indicator |
| I recently acquired
a 9"southbend lathe and would like to be able to cut threads a
little more easily. Mine doesn't have a threading indicator. Are
these available as add-ons? There are a couple on eBay but I'm not
sure how to attach it to the lathe. Mine does have the ability to
thread but having to reverse the whole system after each pass is a
pain. (23965) |
| Dave, mine has a
pin on the side that fits into a hole on the right hand side of the
apron. It swivels on this pin to engage or disengage. Len (23968) |
| Mine doesn't have a
hole. Can I drill something to fit or am I SOL? (23969) |
| Here is a PDF
drawing showing installation details. At 01:09 PM 1/14/2005, you
wrote: Mine doesn't have a hole. Can I drill something to fit or am
I SOL? (23970) |
| Dave asked a good
question: would like to be able to BR Unless you are doing
production, the reverse and restart method has been my preferred for
trouble free threading. The gauge is OK, but may slip or cause other
misalignments. If you need the speed, get the dial. I didn't like
the extra hassle. Just my unexpert, limited opinion. Mike
(23972) |
| Craig, Thanks for
posting that. The part on using the threading dial was very
informative. Rick (23973) |
| Can you send a copy
to me or post it in the files section ? I don't get e-mail, but read
the list on-line. Dave
(23974) |
| You are most
welcome. Someone was kind enough to give it to me when I had the
same problem. Before I could get around to implementing it I ended
up buying another 9 inch with gage attached. Nice how that happens
sometimes. The gages seem to go for outrageous prices on eBay. There
is a company that sells kits for a build your own. Their fixed price
is usually less than the Ebay price. At least that's how I remember
it. I don't recall who sells the kits though. (23975) |
| I believe it is
already in files. I think that is where it came from. The file name
is ATT-94.pdf. If you can't find it there let me know and we'll
figure out a way to get a copy to you. (23976) |
| It is in the files
area of the main group 'southbendlathe'. Go to Files Jim-M (23980) |
| Mike Truthfully the
always engaged method of cutting threads can be up to three times
faster than using the threading dial and much easier on nerves and
heart. JWE (23991) |
| Truth be told, you
don't need a threading dial indicator unless you are doing an odd
number of threads per inch like 11 TPI, or something with a 1/2 in
it. For all of the most common threads: 8, 10, 12, 16, 18, 20, 24,
28, 32, and 40 TPI you can do it this by engaging the half nuts
without care as to where they are. Make your first pass at cutting
your thread and then drop the half nut lever, back off your cross
slide by one turn, turn the carriage crank till your cutting tool is
back to beyond the end of the shaft, turn the cross slide back in by
one turn, advance the compound slide by one to five thousandths,
re-engage the half nuts and take your next pass. You can keep doing
that until you reach the proper depth. (23994) |
| The threading dials
for the South bend 9" workshop lathes can be bought brand new from
Plaza machinery, I bought mine there about a year ago. Can't
remember the guys name but he caters to the hobbyist. Here is a
link:
http://www.plazamachinery.com They are a very good reproduction
of the original and are complete and assembled including the
mounting pin for $119 postage paid. This guy also makes and sells
the steady rests for the same machine, they look just as nice! There
are photos on the bottom of his page. (24032) |
| 13" Thread
Dial Gear Teeth |
| Does anyone know
the number of teeth for the 13" thread dial gear? I think the gear
is the same for the 13", 14-1/2" and 16" lathes. My 13 has a 1"-6
tpi lead screw and I'm thinking the number of teeth for the gear
would be 24. It's 32 for a 3/4-8 on my 9C. Ed
(25184) |
| My 1940's 13" has a
12 tooth thread dial gear...it's home made by the look of it, but
that shouldn't be relevant. Same lead screw details. Len
(25187) |
| The thread chasing
dial on my 13" lathe has a 24 tooth gear on it. It is the factory
made unit that came with the lathe which has a 1" x 6 tpi Acme
thread lead screw. Nick (25194) |
| Either one will
work as long as you have the right cutter and increase the diameter
of the gear for the 24 tooth. t (25195) |
| Also the gear is
the same as on the 14-1/2" and 16 " lathes, except, the gear is
installed inverted when used on the 13" lathes. Nick (25196) |
| I made the gear blank yesterday for the 24
tooth but I didn't want to cut it without some verification. I'm
making it from SAE660 bronze and I'm going to hob it so it will be a
semi-envelopment worm gear (1.360" diameter and 0.678 thickness).
So, for fun, I get to make a hob! Ed (25199) |
| The
(presumably) homemade 12 tooth on my 13" lathe is made from nylon or
similar material. Len (25200) |
| Threading dial |
| I have a 9 inch
model A with a threading dial. I am trying to cut threads for the
first time on this machine and am having very poor results to say
the least. My question is regarding the threading dial. It turns
quite well until I engage the half nut when it stops turning. The
gear is still engaged and turning on the lead screw. When I
disengage the half nut to return to starting position the threading
dial resumes turning. It would seem that engaging the half nut
interrupts the turning of the threading dial. Is this the way it is
intended to function or do I have a problem with the threading dial?
I haven't cut threads on any lathe for years and cannot remember how
the thing worked on those lathes. Jim
(25673) |
| Jim, The threading
dial is an indication of the the position of the carriage in
relation to the rotation of the leadscrew. When the halfnuts are NOT
engaged the dial rotates because there is relative movement between
the carriage and LS. When you engage the half nuts the carriage is
driven by the LS so carriage movement is synchronous with LS
rotation and the indicator stays still. Bernard R (25676) |
| Yes, the threading
dial stops when engaged. Also, the rule is even threads any line.
Odd threads even lines 1/2 threads pick one line for engagement. If
this don't help, then its time to go over your complete threading
set-up. Tom (25680) |
| Thread dial
indicator |
| I
was just thinking if some one has a plan to make the thread
indicator on the sb 9 inches model B . I have an idea but, if it
already drawn why not and I always fine other plan much nicer than
mine . I am looking for a home made type cone of south Band. Robert (25698) |
|
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/files/Techinfo/Thread_Dial/
(25700) |
| What appears to be
a "home made" dial on my 13" has a nylon gear, which might be easier
to make, and in fact could probably be easily made with a saw if no
proper facilities available. Len (25703) |
